Posted: 12/11/2024 8:37:32 PM EDT
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So I installed a Glock Performance Trigger recently using a Johnny Glocks Vex trigger shoe into a PSA Dagger Compact and I must have done something wrong.. When I pull back the slide while uncocked I feel some sort of interference about after approximately 1/2 inch of travel. I can push through this and it APPEARS (not shot yet) to work normally.. Once cocked it feels fine. Not sure it is a good idea to shoot this configuration until I figure this out. The only place I can think that I would be having interference is something in the trigger mechanism housing. As this height is determined by the roll pin holding it in place I wouldn't think this would be mounted incorrectly but I can't think of anything else that would do it. I did also change out the trigger connector to the recommended + model instead of retaining the OEM unit. Can someone here more familiar with Glock internals clue me into what I may have done wrong? Thanks! |
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I'm not an expert, so forgive me if this is a dumb comment/question. The GPT seems to be made only for gen 4/5, and the Dagger is a gen3 clone. Is there a difference there that might account for your issue? Or... is this possibly caused by the protuberance? |
You don’t know me son, so let me explain this to you once. If I ever kill you, you’ll be awake, you’ll be facing me, and you’ll be armed.
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Originally Posted By Mordineus: so I've messed with it a bit more and figured out that if I keep the trigger depressed after trigger pull, then rack the slide I do not feel it. I think that it may be the bit in the dead center of the trigger housing. It appears to be the part that is engaged to pull the firing pin back (is this the sear?), then release it. This seems to be raised up and/or perhaps at a slightly different angle that the default unit. Instead of being a single piece of sheet metal bent into a gradual shape, it is a single piece of steel. https://polenartactical.com/shop/13725-large_default/performance-trigger-glock.jpg On the Gen3 vs. Gen4/5 compatibility, so long as your slide cover plate is Gen4/5 compatible you are all good. The Gen3 cover plate does not have the second notch cut correctly for function with this unit. Glock now helpfully supplies one in the box with the Glock Performance Trigger. I hesitate to modify the angle of engagement of this piece as I don't wish to destroy it, which I have done with my ham-fisted attempts at gunsmithing in the past! Keep us updated. I've been looking at replacing the frame parts in one of my Dagger frames with Glock parts - not aftermarket stuff. I am interested in one of these triggers, but I don't know anyone who has tried one in the Dagger. |
You don’t know me son, so let me explain this to you once. If I ever kill you, you’ll be awake, you’ll be facing me, and you’ll be armed.
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When you pull the trigger, the whole trigger bar moves/torques to the right. So, maybe, the verticle extension (aka shark fin) that engages the firing pin safety is more out of the way, to the right, as you keep the trigger depressed while installing the slide. The verticle extension of the trigger bar and the safety are a notorious friction point, especially when not all parts, frame and slide are of Glock. If the safety is completely round, some chuck it in a drill and slightly reshape the crown into more of a rounded shape, then polish it. If your safety is, instead, of the Gen 5 design, all you can do is polish it. No reshaping. This may not be your problem, but you can check by clearing the chamber, drop the mag, flip the gun upside-down, and shine a flashlight into the magwell as you manipulate the slide and trigger to observe the relationship between the verticle extension and the safety. If this is your problem, and your safety is a Gen 5 design, you could smooth your verticle extension in addition to polishing your safety plunger. |
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Just guessing it could be the reset ear on the connector. It makes contact with the ramp under the slide about 1/2" into racking the slide. If you keep the trigger pressed, it keeps the reset ear pushed towards the housing and will cause the rub feeling to go away partially or completely. Make sure your connector is at the correct angle and adjust it as necessary. Also, debur/round-off any sharp spots on the ear. Also make sure that you pushed the connector into the housing 100%. It should be installed with finger pressure and then finished pushing in with something like a metal punch. It needs seated 100%. If not, the angle is all effed up and the reset ear is out too far. The only other contact point 1/2" into racking that also creates a rub is the verticle extension aka the shark fin on the trigger bar that depresses the safety plunger. Make sure your plunger spring is installed correctly, and has freedom of movement, nor any burs on the verticle extension. |
