Posted: 5/3/2025 7:35:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AK-12][Edited]
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I’d have bought at $720. Sold one like it recently for $1350. Know as T - Series. Not sure about MK series. No idea about the ejection issue / until you shoot it I’d not worry about it. Buy some MecGars for range use and get a couple of new mouse traps if you plan to carry it. I’ve got a set of period grips from the T series I had nighthawk build for me. Probably an extra bag and other stuff as well. PM me if interested. |
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Originally Posted By AK-12: According to the Browning website the serial number (T198XXX) dates it to 1967, which I believe makes it a Mark I. Its a "Standard Model of 1962". Despite what Wikipedia says, there is no "Mark I" FN Hi Power. That's because FN didn't start using such a designation until the "Mark II" appeared in the early '80's. How did I do for $720? Pretty darn good. Congrats. |
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Originally Posted By AK-12: I have several Mec-Gar 15 rounders that I bought in anticipation of getting a BHP. What is a good source for mousetraps, and what's a reasonable price for them? . I’ve picked up a couple off EE and at Midway. $35-50 seems to be a buy price. |
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Originally Posted By DogtownTom: Its a "Standard Model of 1962". Despite what Wikipedia says, there is no "Mark I" FN Hi Power. That's because FN didn't start using such a designation until the "Mark II" appeared in the early '80's. Pretty darn good. Congrats. Thanks for clearing that up; I'd seen that nomenclature and also references to "T series." |
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A very nice Hi-Power for the price. With regards to the actual ejector, it appears to be bent slightly to the left, unclear how or why. Consider replacing the old recoil-spring and the extractor-spring with Factory FN/Browning examples. The two Factory Belgian-made FN springs can be found at Brownell's easily. Both are usually under $5.00 a piece and usually in-stock. I am NOT at fan of Wolff-brand recoil springs in any Hi Power. The included magazine pictured appears to be FN factory Belgian-made original 13rd magazine. Mec-Gar 13rd magazines are an absolute bargain for what they offer, perfect fit and 100% reliability, always without fail or issues. Good luck. |
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Originally Posted By emmetf: A very nice Hi-Power for the price. With regards to the actual ejector, it appears to be bent slightly to the left, unclear how or why. Consider replacing the old recoil-spring and the extractor-spring with Factory FN/Browning examples. The two Factory Belgian-made FN springs can be found at Brownell's easily. Both are usually under $5.00 a piece and usually in-stock. I am NOT at fan of Wolff-brand recoil springs in any Hi Power. The included magazine pictured appears to be FN factory Belgian-made original 13rd magazine. Mec-Gar 13rd magazines are an absolute bargain for what they offer, perfect fit and 100% reliability, always without fail or issues. Good luck. All of the parts I ordered are factory Browning. Brownells was as usual OOS on most of them, so I got them from Midwest Gun Works. |
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Originally Posted By rrbgeb: I’d have bought at $720. Sold one like it recently for $1350. Know as T - Series. Not sure about MK series. No idea about the ejection issue / until you shoot it I’d not worry about it. Buy some MecGars for range use and get a couple of new mouse traps if you plan to carry it. I’ve got a set of period grips from the T series I had nighthawk build for me. Probably an extra bag and other stuff as well. PM me if interested. Why? The only HP mags I've ever had trouble with were those mouse trap spring mags. Feeding issues, plus the wire can bend easily. OP: Just stick with Mec-Gars. When I carry my HP, I have a 15 in the gun and a 20 rounder (21) as a spare. |
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All my 13 rd magazines do not have a single mark on them. They were advertised as Israeli Milsurp and purchased out of the old Shotgun News. They still work fine for range mags. I've never owned the "mousetrap" version. I much prefer the MecGar versions for carry. |
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OP that one looks very nice. I'd pay $750 for it and have a smile on my face. Put some rounds through it before you try to diagnose any ejection issue. ETA: I also put in a few votes for the Mec-GAr magazines. They're well made. |
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Took it out last weekend and it was surprisingly easy to shoot well despite the tiny sights. I did have a few light strikes, dents on the primers, and all of those cartridges ran just fine in a Beretta 92 I had with me. I went ahead and ordered a new mainspring for it. Replaced the mainspring today, and boy do I hope I don't have to do that again. The Apex tool I ordered to help is 3d printed plastic and broke before the job was done, but I was able to get the strut put back together. It was much harder to get the sear back in this time than it was when I replaced the ejector, and it's also noticeably harder to rack the slide with the hammer down. I'll get it out again soon, but I expect that my light strike issue will be resolved. |
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Originally Posted By AK-12: A couple weeks ago I was at the LGS picking up a transfer and noticed a couple of BHPs under the counter glass: an SA-35 and a Browning. I had been in need of a Hi-Power and planned to get an SA-35, but as it turns out the Browning was $40 cheaper-so I went back yesterday to pick it up. Initial cleaning tells me it was definitely shot, but cared for, and it also passed the click test. The trigger is a bit heavy, but not bad-I'll probably just leave the magazine safety in place. According to the Browning website the serial number (T198XXX) dates it to 1967. It appears to have almost all of the original parts, and aside from a couple of scratches most of the original blued finish as well. The slide markings have the St Louis location for Browning, made in Belgium, ring hammer; the only parts I am sure are not original are the lasergrips it had, so it is currently sitting here gripless awaiting a set of NOS wood grips and screws that aren't boogered. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003686-3531920.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003687-3531922.jpg It came with 1 magazine that appears to have no markings. If somebody has an idea of what kind it is I'd appreciate it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003688-3531923.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003689-3531924.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003691-3531925.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003692-3531926.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003693-3531927.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003694-3531928.jpg It will not eject the last round when hand cycled with dummies, which leads me to believe the previous rounds are ejecting by bumping off the next round in the magazine. Is it correct that the external extractors should hold the rim of the case until it is bumped out of the ejection port by the ejector? It also looks like my ejector is bent outward, but like I said it is my first Hi-Power so I am not sure whether it is supposed to look like that. Pic below, if y'all would be so kind as to help. It doesn't hang up or cause any problems when removing and reinstalling the slide if that matters. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/1000003685-3531929.jpg I went ahead and ordered a new extractor, extractor spring, extractor pin, ejector, and recoil spring FWIW. I don't plan to shoot the shit out of it or anything but I want to be sure it's functional. Thanks in advance. How did I do for $720? ![]() |
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Originally Posted By wildearp: The SA-35 likely had a better trigger and would have run fine, unmolested. You did poorly. Many people do just like you do, buy a Browning with a shitty trigger and immediately spend $50-150 unfucking it. Many of the clones have horrible triggers. The SA35 is the first decent off-the-shelf trigger I have seen and I purchased it without a second thought. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/IMG_5200_JPG-3050023.jpg Well I certainly don't think I did poorly, though I'll probably pick up another new production gun as a shooter. The trigger on this one isn't on par with a high end 1911, but it's certainly not bad either. They aren't making any more of these in Belgium. Leaning towards the nickel Inglis for a shooter. |
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Originally Posted By wildearp: The SA-35 likely had a better trigger and would have run fine, unmolested. You did poorly. Many people do just like you do, buy a Browning with a shitty trigger and immediately spend $50-150 unfucking it. Many of the clones have horrible triggers. The SA35 is the first decent off-the-shelf trigger I have seen and I purchased it without a second thought. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/IMG_5200_JPG-3050023.jpg But, the SA-35 will just never, ever be as cool as a vintage made in Belgium piece. |
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Originally Posted By AK-12: Well I certainly don't think I did poorly, though I'll probably pick up another new production gun as a shooter. The trigger on this one isn't on par with a high end 1911, but it's certainly not bad either. They aren't making any more of these in Belgium. Leaning towards the nickel Inglis for a shooter. Originally Posted By AK-12: Originally Posted By wildearp: The SA-35 likely had a better trigger and would have run fine, unmolested. You did poorly. Many people do just like you do, buy a Browning with a shitty trigger and immediately spend $50-150 unfucking it. Many of the clones have horrible triggers. The SA35 is the first decent off-the-shelf trigger I have seen and I purchased it without a second thought. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/IMG_5200_JPG-3050023.jpg Well I certainly don't think I did poorly, though I'll probably pick up another new production gun as a shooter. The trigger on this one isn't on par with a high end 1911, but it's certainly not bad either. They aren't making any more of these in Belgium. Leaning towards the nickel Inglis for a shooter. I think you did fine. Browning's not making any more HiPowers, and you didn't support those mugs in Illinois. |
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Originally Posted By wildearp: The SA-35 likely had a better trigger and would have run fine, unmolested. You did poorly. Many people do just like you do, buy a Browning with a shitty trigger and immediately spend $50-150 unfucking it. Many of the clones have horrible triggers. The SA35 is the first decent off-the-shelf trigger I have seen and I purchased it without a second thought. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/IMG_5200_JPG-3050023.jpg I don't think he did poorly at all. I have both and they both equally have great triggers. Unmolested great triggers. Well done OP. I would have jumped on the Browning as well |
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Originally Posted By AK-12: Well I certainly don't think I did poorly, though I'll probably pick up another new production gun as a shooter. The trigger on this one isn't on par with a high end 1911, but it's certainly not bad either. They aren't making any more of these in Belgium. Leaning towards the nickel Inglis for a shooter. I have the nickel Inglis. It's a fine pistol. |
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Originally Posted By M113cav: I have the nickel Inglis. It's a fine pistol. Originally Posted By M113cav: Originally Posted By AK-12: Well I certainly don't think I did poorly, though I'll probably pick up another new production gun as a shooter. The trigger on this one isn't on par with a high end 1911, but it's certainly not bad either. They aren't making any more of these in Belgium. Leaning towards the nickel Inglis for a shooter. I have the nickel Inglis. It's a fine pistol. is it better to support the Muslims in Turkey or the minor Quislings in Illinois?
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Originally Posted By wildearp: The SA-35 likely had a better trigger and would have run fine, unmolested. You did poorly. Many people do just like you do, buy a Browning with a shitty trigger and immediately spend $50-150 unfucking it. Many of the clones have horrible triggers. The SA35 is the first decent off-the-shelf trigger I have seen and I purchased it without a second thought. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41996/IMG_5200_JPG-3050023.jpg I have 2 Inglis clones and both had good triggers. The Girsans needed work. |
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OP you did awesome on the price. The going rate for a nice T-series last I checked was about ~$1000. If you really want to know the ins and outs of your pistol, pick up a copy of The Shooter's Guide to the Browning Hi Power – REVISED EDITION – Hi-Powers and Handguns by Stephen A. Camp. Mr. Camp is now deceased but his wife still sells his book and it's relatively inexpensive. It's a wealth of practical knowledge about the platform. IIRC he recommended a 26# hammer spring and an 18# recoil spring for optimum functioning, reliability, and a nice felt recoil impulse. I don't care for Wolff Springs anymore and source all of my springs and assorted parts from BH Spring Solutions. They have all of the remaining stock parts from FN/Browning that Midwest didn't get. Stay away from +P ammo in your gun and check for functioning if you plan to carry modern hollow-points in your piece. The Hornady FTX bullets (with the polymer tip) seem to work best in a older hi-power that's a picky eater. Your mag appears to be original (notice the marking on the back side on the lower-left) and is in exceptional shape. As others have said, Mec-gar makes excellent 13 and 15-round magazines for around $20-25 dollars if you hunt (I think CDNN is currently having a sale on them). Mouse-trap mags are nice if you're keeping the magazine safety in-tact but they are as rare as hen's teeth these days. I developed an addiction to hi-powers and own several now, including Turkish, Argentine, Israeli, and Hungarian clones. The SA-35 seems to be a decent clone pistol but that's all they will ever be. They don't have the re-sell value of a classic Browning if that's a consideration so I think this is an excellent score. |
| Excellent pistol. I have a 1967 vintage one just like yours, I've had it many years. The original mag that came in mine is OD coloured in the body. I use that and Mecgars and never have had a malfunction. I did remove the magazine safety from mine and it made a huge difference in the trigger pull. Also, the mags now fall free. |
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Originally Posted By rrbgeb: I’d have bought at $720. Sold one like it recently for $1350. Know as T - Series. Not sure about MK series. No idea about the ejection issue / until you shoot it I’d not worry about it. Buy some MecGars for range use and get a couple of new mouse traps if you plan to carry it. I’ve got a set of period grips from the T series I had nighthawk build for me. Probably an extra bag and other stuff as well. PM me if interested. Originally Posted By rrbgeb: I’d have bought at $720. Sold one like it recently for $1350. Know as T - Series. Not sure about MK series. No idea about the ejection issue / until you shoot it I’d not worry about it. Buy some MecGars for range use and get a couple of new mouse traps if you plan to carry it. I’ve got a set of period grips from the T series I had nighthawk build for me. Probably an extra bag and other stuff as well. PM me if interested. Originally Posted By lew: Why? The only HP mags I've ever had trouble with were those mouse trap spring mags. Feeding issues, plus the wire can bend easily. OP: Just stick with Mec-Gars. When I carry my HP, I have a 15 in the gun and a 20 rounder (21) as a spare. You're both right in different contexts. It's a valid comment to suggest using a mouse trap magazines for self defense (at the least the first mag, the spare won't matter). The mouse trap magazines ensure positive ejection of the empty magazine when you hit the magazine release. But...that's because the spring pressure on the actuator for the magazine safety presses firmly against the front of the magazine and prevents it from dropping out of the well on its own without the mouse trap spring giving it that initial assist past the magazine safety. That's why the mouse trap spring was used in the first place. However, if the magazine safety has been removed, then it's a non issue as a well made magazine like the Mec-Gar magazines will drop out of the well all by itself. |
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The Mk II Hi Power was introduced in 1982. The major changes from the "pre-Mark II" (as there was never officially a "Mk I") were: - ambidextrous extended safety levers; - black plastic grips with thumb rests; - a small hole drilled in the front of the slide to drain water; - a low profile rib on the top of the slide; - replacement of the humped feed ramp on the barrel with straight, throated ramp; and - while early Mk IIs did not have a firing pin safety, later Mk IIs have one. The MK II also retained the protruding barrel bushing that appeared on later pre Mk IIs somewhere in the mid 1960s. That didn't go away until the Mk III where it was again much lower profile like the pre mid 1960s pre Mk II pistols. The two things on the pre MK II pistol that might make a difference are the lack of an extended and ambidextrous safety lever, and the humped feed ramp. Personally, I prefer not to have an ambidextrous safety on a concealed carry pistol as the only time I have ever had a safety lever get switched from safe to fire on a Hi Power or a 1911 while holstered has been with an ambidextrous safety lever. I do like an extended safety lever on a Hi Power as the original is pretty short and small. Cylinder and Slide sells a very nice extended safety lever that also solves the mushy Hi Power safety detent issue. It's around $50. It will, like any Hi Power safety, require some minor fitting. The humped feed ramps is associated with feed issues with some hollow points. I have personally not had any feed issues in any of my Pre Mk II Hi Powers or FEG clones with 115 and 124 gr XTPs, and 124 gr V-Crown hollow points. If the humped feed ramp is an issue you can have the barrel replaced, but barrel cost and fitting cost will put it up around $350. Another option is to have a gunsmith just reprofile the feed ramp to the newer style. But...as a nice T series Pre Mk II pistol, I'd just leave everything as is, or at least keep all the old parts so you can restore it to stock condition. |










