Dug relic 1911 restoration (Pics and Video) (Page 2 of 8)
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Originally Posted By Clay54961:
can some one please explane in simple terms how this works? Well, rust is a compound of iron (steel) and oxygen. There's the flaky rust that comes off easy and, under that, some darker rust that is still bonded to the metal. The electrolysis process reverts the bonded rust to metal and the flaky rust gets washed off in the process. The iron bar you use as an anode will be rusted in the process. At least, that's how I understand it. 
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Originally Posted By TuskenRaider:
Good job Bro. Tell us more about the gun that sat in blood for 10 years please. I made a video to show her off a little..... 
Note: THIS IS A VIDEO OF A DIFFERENT 1911.... THIS IS THE 1991A1 EVIDENCE GUN |
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Originally Posted By AJAX22: Originally Posted By TuskenRaider: Good job Bro. Tell us more about the gun that sat in blood for 10 years please. I made a video to show her off a little..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtGntnu9HME Note: THIS IS A VIDEO OF A DIFFERENT 1911.... THIS IS THE 1991A1 EVIDENCE GUN |
Oppressing since 1991
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Originally Posted By m4pointman:
Originally Posted By AJAX22:
Originally Posted By TuskenRaider:
Good job Bro. Tell us more about the gun that sat in blood for 10 years please. I made a video to show her off a little..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtGntnu9HME Note: THIS IS A VIDEO OF A DIFFERENT 1911.... THIS IS THE 1991A1 EVIDENCE GUN  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VtGntnu9HME
needs red paint in all the corroded spots 
bright green or orange would give it an interesting look too. |
I can't imagine being so utterly clueless and then thinking you have a valid point to make in a public forum. -Lumpy196 10-15-2010
Yes, it's exercise right up to 4:30...after that it's pron. -KILLERB6 04-10-2011
Yes, it's exercise right up to 4:30...after that it's pron. -KILLERB6 04-10-2011
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Re - Heat Treating....
WWI and Commercial 1911s were NOT, I repeat NOT heat treated other than the normal forging process. The spot heat treating you see on WWII 1911A1s and such didn't start happening until the 1930s, and by then Colt was making commercial 1911s with 1911A1 appointments (scalloped sides of the frame near the trigger, arched mainspring housing, longer grip safety, etc) So, you should be able to use a heat gun just fine and not ruin a thing. The gun you have there appears to be an early 1911, either commercial or military, from before when heat treating started happening due to military orders. I'd be more concerned about the firing pin hole being peened or something. WWII 1911A1s had a hardened breech plug fitted there because high round count M1911s would peen there and the firing pin would stick in the forward position, leading to interesting range sessions. This also happens on the recent (as in within the last 10 or so years) batch of imported Sistemas from Argentina... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
"The rest of the world thinks Americans are arrogant, and to be fair...fuck you." Adam Ferrara, Top Gear US
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Originally Posted By GLADIO:
You may want to take the mainspring assembly apart. It's painless and easy. Go for the vise system if you have one. I took one of the pins out of it already, I'll see if I can get the lanyard loop pin out as well. I'm unfamiliar with the vise system.... and not sure if it would work on an assembly with a frozen plunger.... Anyway, I zapped her for another 24 with a new electrode, made a quick vid of how she looked, and stuck her back in to see if the same electrode/electrolyte can be used for 48 hours consecutively.
In the meantime, I made a couple quick viewer request videos for the Mini 14 that was recovered from the bottom of a lake after 10 years.
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Originally Posted By AJAX22: Originally Posted By GLADIO: You may want to take the mainspring assembly apart. It's painless and easy. Go for the vise system if you have one. I took one of the pins out of it already, I'll see if I can get the lanyard loop pin out as well. I'm unfamiliar with the vise system.... and not sure if it would work on an assembly with a frozen plunger.... Anyway, I zapped her for another 24 with a new electrode, made a quick vid of how she looked, and stuck her back in to see if the same electrode/electrolyte can be used for 48 hours consecutively. http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edit?ns=1&video_id=ho6KcbEXiw0In the meantime, I made a couple quick viewer request videos for the Mini 14 that was recovered from the bottom of a lake after 10 years. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=weHRnO5mZ4I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7UuKjmrqH8I enjoyed the Mini14 video. the AD part ( that one is a legit AD ) is.. interesting. I'm surprised the slide isn't moving the slightest yet. Hammond, have you got a hammer?
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Originally Posted By GLADIO: I'm surprised the slide isn't moving the slightest yet. Hammond, have you got a hammer? No doubt. I'd put a bushing wrench on it to align it and then start whacking the nose of the gun with a non-metallic mallet until the slide breaks free. WAY cool project!  |
“When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.” Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By eric10mm: Originally Posted By GLADIO: I'm surprised the slide isn't moving the slightest yet. Hammond, have you got a hammer? No doubt. I'd put a bushing wrench on it to align it and then start whacking the nose of the gun with a non-metallic mallet until the slide breaks free. WAY cool project! I can't wait to see this thing apart, cleaned up, and running. Makes me want to do a similar project.
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Originally Posted By AJAX22:
https://www.ypoutube.com/watch?v=6upC7dqBRKQ Another 24 hours.... No love from the barrel ad yet... Your link is bad Here is a better one Link ETA: Please don't whack it with a hammer! |
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Originally Posted By miker84: I've used the electrolysis method on some old motorcycle parts and patience is a virtue. Tip of the hat to you OP.  Remember though, the process does not differentiate between rust and good metal. It eats it all at the same rate. So while the rust may be disappearing, so is good metal. |
“When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.” Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By eric10mm: I just thought about something I've heard about electolytic rust removal,Originally Posted By miker84: I've used the electrolysis method on some old motorcycle parts and patience is a virtue. Tip of the hat to you OP. Remember though, the process does not differentiate between rust and good metal. It eats it all at the same rate. So while the rust may be disappearing, so is good metal. and that it actually takes the temper off of springs. So, all the springs in your gun may be toast as of now.
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Originally Posted By GLADIO:
Originally Posted By eric10mm:
I just thought about something I've heard about electolytic rust removal,Originally Posted By miker84:
I've used the electrolysis method on some old motorcycle parts and patience is a virtue. Tip of the hat to you OP. Remember though, the process does not differentiate between rust and good metal. It eats it all at the same rate. So while the rust may be disappearing, so is good metal. and that it actually takes the temper off of springs. So, all the springs in your gun may be toast as of now.
You think? 50 years in the dirt probably didnt help the springs much either |
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Originally Posted By MTNmyMag: Yeah, all of the springs are toast and especially the bent sear spring. If I were him, I'd be tapping the main spring/hammer strut plunger with a hammer & punch to free it up from its current stuck position. With proper eye protection of course. Originally Posted By GLADIO: Originally Posted By eric10mm: I just thought about something I've heard about electolytic rust removal,Originally Posted By miker84: I've used the electrolysis method on some old motorcycle parts and patience is a virtue. Tip of the hat to you OP. Remember though, the process does not differentiate between rust and good metal. It eats it all at the same rate. So while the rust may be disappearing, so is good metal. and that it actually takes the temper off of springs. So, all the springs in your gun may be toast as of now. You think? 50 years in the dirt probably didnt help the springs much either  In one of his later videos he mentions the slide stop detent as possible needing to be replaced. IMO one could clean out the detent tube and scrub the original detents back to useable status and simply replace the spring. |
“When the people fear their government, there is tyranny; when the government fears the people, there is liberty.” Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By zaskar017:
OP, if everything went as it should, you may need one of these now if you log in again http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2948/2kzx8g4i.gif http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/1795/bwckh0b4.gif Outstanding, and well deserved. |
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Originally Posted By zaskar017:
OP, if everything went as it should, you may need one of these now if you log in again http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/2948/2kzx8g4i.gif http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/1795/bwckh0b4.gif Thanks, that makes everything a lot easier. I really appreciate it. |
