Posted: 2/27/2025 5:58:06 PM EDT
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I have a nice Diamondback but the hammer won’t lock back in single action. Any thoughts and/or service options. Many thanks. |
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@PaladinM1911: I hope this may help you. Without the gun on my bench, I am of little assistance BUT, several years ago I purchased an NIB, NOS Diamondback in box....and it had the SHITTIEST action of any gun I have ever owned. I was PISSED. It took a couple months of work but I got it sorted out. Below are two pics. One in the double action mode. The other in Single Action Mode. I hope these help:  and here is SA mode:  in SA mode, the sear notch on the hammer should engage the sear on the trigger as shown. Last is a picture of the action with the side plate removed but otherwise assembled.  Hope this helps a bit! Also: here is some of the inner lockwork that you don't see with everything else in the way:  |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Before taking it all apart, remove the grips and let it sit a day or two in oleum. Hold it under the liquid and work the action multiple times while, then let it sit some more. See if that frees it up. If not and you need to take it apart, get the proper hollow ground screwdrivers and not some cheap piece of shit that will gouge the screws. It if does free up and work, blow out the actions well, let dry and lube properly. You may have to remove the sideplate to do this. It's possible someone converted it to DAO sometime in the past but Colt never cataloged one as OEM. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By fxntime: Before taking it all apart, remove the grips and let it sit a day or two in oleum. Hold it under the liquid and work the action multiple times while, then let it sit some more. See if that frees it up. If not and you need to take it apart, get the proper hollow ground screwdrivers and not some cheap piece of shit that will gouge the screws. It if does free up and work, blow out the actions well, let dry and lube properly. You may have to remove the sideplate to do this. It's possible someone converted it to DAO sometime in the past but Colt never cataloged one as OEM. |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: Let me add that you should not be afraid to grind the bits to fit the gun specifically. This is the best way to keep from ruining screw heads. Originally Posted By desertmoon: Originally Posted By fxntime: Before taking it all apart, remove the grips and let it sit a day or two in oleum. Hold it under the liquid and work the action multiple times while, then let it sit some more. See if that frees it up. If not and you need to take it apart, get the proper hollow ground screwdrivers and not some cheap piece of shit that will gouge the screws. It if does free up and work, blow out the actions well, let dry and lube properly. You may have to remove the sideplate to do this. It's possible someone converted it to DAO sometime in the past but Colt never cataloged one as OEM. I'm a klutz, I've put masking tape around screws on some guns. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
Hey everyone thanks for all the responses. Was recovering from the flu this week so I had time to really look at the problem. So the problem I suspect is a bad cylinder. With the cylinder removed or opened the gun action works perfectly, both double action and single action. Very smooth. If I put the cylinder back, all the problems return. So I order a whole replacement cylinder and crane from Numrich, along with some spare parts I might lose during working on the revolver. Will see, how much fitting is required for the cylinder switch out. |
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: I have regretted NOT putting masking tape on a couple, that's for sure!  Originally Posted By desertmoon: Originally Posted By fxntime: I'm a klutz, I've put masking tape around screws on some guns. Waves hand.I still do the CC/DL under some 1911 slide stops that are tight. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: Hey everyone thanks for all the responses. Was recovering from the flu this week so I had time to really look at the problem. So the problem I suspect is a bad cylinder. With the cylinder removed or opened the gun action works perfectly, both double action and single action. Very smooth. If I put the cylinder back, all the problems return. So I order a whole replacement cylinder and crane from Numrich, along with some spare parts I might lose during working on the revolver. Will see, how much fitting is required for the cylinder switch out. I am curious to see what the outcome is. Keep us up to date! DAMN! I just noticed you aren't THAT far from me (but far enough) .....makes it even MORE frustrating!!!! |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: Hmmm....I don't it is the cylinder "per se" but must have something do do with the locking axis pin that locks into the cylinder from the lock work side of things. The Colt cylinder frame lock up is kind of opposite of a Smith and Wesson. I am curious to see what the outcome is. Keep us up to date! DAMN! I just noticed you aren't THAT far from me (but far enough) .....makes it even MORE frustrating!!!! Originally Posted By desertmoon: Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: Hey everyone thanks for all the responses. Was recovering from the flu this week so I had time to really look at the problem. So the problem I suspect is a bad cylinder. With the cylinder removed or opened the gun action works perfectly, both double action and single action. Very smooth. If I put the cylinder back, all the problems return. So I order a whole replacement cylinder and crane from Numrich, along with some spare parts I might lose during working on the revolver. Will see, how much fitting is required for the cylinder switch out. I am curious to see what the outcome is. Keep us up to date! DAMN! I just noticed you aren't THAT far from me (but far enough) .....makes it even MORE frustrating!!!! Wonder if a previous owner bent the crane slightly playing ''gunfighter'' and flicking the cylinder in and out with a flick of his wrist. This looks like a .22 caliber and not a .38 special so the cylinder is considerably heavier due to more steel left in it. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
Originally Posted By fxntime: Wonder if a previous owner bent the crane slightly playing ''gunfighter'' and flicking the cylinder in and out with a flick of his wrist. This looks like a .22 caliber and not a .38 special so the cylinder is considerably heavier due to more steel left in it.  Because I don't have the gun in my hands...this is the best I can think of at the moment. |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: Without seeing the gun and only having a limited understanding of the issue; if the cylinder, rod and extractor plate are in good shape and considering the symptoms, I think the problem is located in one of these two areas: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23042/Full_Action_Two-3479568.jpg Because I don't have the gun in my hands...this is the best I can think of at the moment. Originally Posted By desertmoon: Originally Posted By fxntime: Wonder if a previous owner bent the crane slightly playing ''gunfighter'' and flicking the cylinder in and out with a flick of his wrist. This looks like a .22 caliber and not a .38 special so the cylinder is considerably heavier due to more steel left in it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23042/Full_Action_Two-3479568.jpg Because I don't have the gun in my hands...this is the best I can think of at the moment. Do you think one of the springs isn't pushing back hard enough with the cylinder in place but has enough oomph with it out? |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
Originally Posted By fxntime: Do you think one of the springs isn't pushing back hard enough with the cylinder in place but has enough oomph with it out? Spring is first on my list. OP, if you need more D Back Action pics, let me know. |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Be aware that Colt cylinders DO NOT drop in. They require extensive fitting and adjusting and since a used cylinder was already fitted to a different frame it may well not fit a another frame. Just because a cylinder will snap into the frame is no indication it's right, or even safe to fire. To hopefully help getting a fit, install the original ejector in the replacement cylinder. The ejector will possibly require some fitting. Little in a Colt will just drop in. To install a cylinder head space was set by precision surface grinding the rear of the ejector. Then the cylinder assembly is adjusted for...... Cylinder end shake. Adjusting this requires a special hydraulic device to stretch the collar on the face of the cylinder. Washers CANNOT be used like in a S&W and attempting to do so will seriously damage the gun. Adjust-barrel chamber alignment on all six chambers. Adjust timing on all six chambers. Check -adjust barrel-cylinder gap. This may require barrel set back one thread, lathe and special frame wrench and forcing cone tooling and gauge required. All this is clearly explained in deep detail in the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual on the Colt DA revolvers, Volume One available from Brownell's and many book sellers. Reasons for the hammer to fail to lock in SA.... The mainspring may have been bent to get a light pull and the hammer has "Push off" badly enough it won't cock at all. Kuhnhausen shows simple adjustment to the trigger. The hammer or trigger sear area may have been altered trying for better trigger pull. Replace hammer or trigger. If parts are needed, Jack First Gun Part is the best source. |
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Originally Posted By dfariswheel: Be aware that Colt cylinders DO NOT drop in. They require extensive fitting and adjusting and since a used cylinder was already fitted to a different frame it may well not fit a another frame. Just because a cylinder will snap into the frame is no indication it's right, or even safe to fire. To hopefully help getting a fit, install the original ejector in the replacement cylinder. The ejector will possibly require some fitting. Little in a Colt will just drop in. To install a cylinder head space was set by precision surface grinding the rear of the ejector. Then the cylinder assembly is adjusted for...... Cylinder end shake. Adjusting this requires a special hydraulic device to stretch the collar on the face of the cylinder. Washers CANNOT be used like in a S&W and attempting to do so will seriously damage the gun. Adjust-barrel chamber alignment on all six chambers. Adjust timing on all six chambers. Check -adjust barrel-cylinder gap. This may require barrel set back one thread, lathe and special frame wrench and forcing cone tooling and gauge required. All this is clearly explained in deep detail in the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual on the Colt DA revolvers, Volume One available from Brownell's and many book sellers. Reasons for the hammer to fail to lock in SA.... The mainspring may have been bent to get a light pull and the hammer has "Push off" badly enough it won't cock at all. Kuhnhausen shows simple adjustment to the trigger. The hammer or trigger sear area may have been altered trying for better trigger pull. Replace hammer or trigger. If parts are needed, Jack First Gun Part is the best source. Thanks for the imput, I'm taking it very slow on this project. |
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Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: Thanks for the imput, I'm taking it very slow on this project. Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: Originally Posted By dfariswheel: Be aware that Colt cylinders DO NOT drop in. They require extensive fitting and adjusting and since a used cylinder was already fitted to a different frame it may well not fit a another frame. Just because a cylinder will snap into the frame is no indication it's right, or even safe to fire. To hopefully help getting a fit, install the original ejector in the replacement cylinder. The ejector will possibly require some fitting. Little in a Colt will just drop in. To install a cylinder head space was set by precision surface grinding the rear of the ejector. Then the cylinder assembly is adjusted for...... Cylinder end shake. Adjusting this requires a special hydraulic device to stretch the collar on the face of the cylinder. Washers CANNOT be used like in a S&W and attempting to do so will seriously damage the gun. Adjust-barrel chamber alignment on all six chambers. Adjust timing on all six chambers. Check -adjust barrel-cylinder gap. This may require barrel set back one thread, lathe and special frame wrench and forcing cone tooling and gauge required. All this is clearly explained in deep detail in the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual on the Colt DA revolvers, Volume One available from Brownell's and many book sellers. Reasons for the hammer to fail to lock in SA.... The mainspring may have been bent to get a light pull and the hammer has "Push off" badly enough it won't cock at all. Kuhnhausen shows simple adjustment to the trigger. The hammer or trigger sear area may have been altered trying for better trigger pull. Replace hammer or trigger. If parts are needed, Jack First Gun Part is the best source. Thanks for the imput, I'm taking it very slow on this project. Keep us updated if you please. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
Originally Posted By fxntime: Keep us updated if you please. Originally Posted By fxntime: Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: Originally Posted By dfariswheel: Be aware that Colt cylinders DO NOT drop in. They require extensive fitting and adjusting and since a used cylinder was already fitted to a different frame it may well not fit a another frame. Just because a cylinder will snap into the frame is no indication it's right, or even safe to fire. To hopefully help getting a fit, install the original ejector in the replacement cylinder. The ejector will possibly require some fitting. Little in a Colt will just drop in. To install a cylinder head space was set by precision surface grinding the rear of the ejector. Then the cylinder assembly is adjusted for...... Cylinder end shake. Adjusting this requires a special hydraulic device to stretch the collar on the face of the cylinder. Washers CANNOT be used like in a S&W and attempting to do so will seriously damage the gun. Adjust-barrel chamber alignment on all six chambers. Adjust timing on all six chambers. Check -adjust barrel-cylinder gap. This may require barrel set back one thread, lathe and special frame wrench and forcing cone tooling and gauge required. All this is clearly explained in deep detail in the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual on the Colt DA revolvers, Volume One available from Brownell's and many book sellers. Reasons for the hammer to fail to lock in SA.... The mainspring may have been bent to get a light pull and the hammer has "Push off" badly enough it won't cock at all. Kuhnhausen shows simple adjustment to the trigger. The hammer or trigger sear area may have been altered trying for better trigger pull. Replace hammer or trigger. If parts are needed, Jack First Gun Part is the best source. Thanks for the imput, I'm taking it very slow on this project. Keep us updated if you please. Will due, also I ordered Kuhnhausen Shop Manual on the Colt DA revolvers from Amazon. Thanks for the tip. |
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: @PaladinM1911 : How is that Diamondback coming along? Thanks for asking, Final got the spring I think I need. But unfortunately life is happening, family drama, and I have zero free time. I'm hoping for some time soon, like a solid Sunday afternoon. Will keep you updated here. |
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Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: Thanks for asking, Final got the spring I think I need. But unfortunately life is happening, family drama, and I have zero free time. I'm hoping for some time soon, like a solid Sunday afternoon. Will keep you updated here. |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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Originally Posted By desertmoon: Thank you, Sir! Can't wait to hear how it goes. Originally Posted By desertmoon: Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: Thanks for asking, Final got the spring I think I need. But unfortunately life is happening, family drama, and I have zero free time. I'm hoping for some time soon, like a solid Sunday afternoon. Will keep you updated here. I'm still watching also. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
FIXED IT. Had some extra time this weekend and final figured it out. The bolt screw had come lose and was not allowing the blot spring to re engage after the hammer was cocked. Re screwed the bolt screw and made sure the rebound lever was engaged. Everything works like a charm. Thanks everyone for your input. |
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Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: FIXED IT. Had some extra time this weekend and final figured it out. The bolt screw had come lose and was not allowing the blot spring to re engage after the hammer was cocked. Re screwed the bolt screw and made sure the rebound lever was engaged. Everything works like a charm. Thanks everyone for your input. 1. Thanks for getting back with us and 2. Glad it was something so simple. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
Originally Posted By PaladinM1911: FIXED IT. Had some extra time this weekend and final figured it out. The bolt screw had come lose and was not allowing the blot spring to re engage after the hammer was cocked. Re screwed the bolt screw and made sure the rebound lever was engaged. Everything works like a charm. Thanks everyone for your input. |
"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"