Posted: 9/19/2026 5:46:02 PM EDT
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I bought an E-Series a couple of months ago. I liked every thing about it except the trigger. The trigger pull was over 8 pounds. I called Smith & Wesson and they told me it was out of spec and had me send it in for repair. About 4 weeks latter I got is back, zero change to anything. I got frustrated and decided to try to fix it myself. I found a disassembly video on YouTube for the original CSX and followed that to strip the frame. I polished the trigger bar, sear, hammer strut, etc.. I left the hammer hooks alone and left the springs alone. When I put it back together The trigger pull was down to about 7 pounds. I was still frustrated with the trigger, but figured that was as good as it was going to get. Today I had a moment of clarity. I pulled ten slide off and checked the trigger pull without it, 3.5 pounds. Ok the problem may be in the slide. I put very little thumb pressure to the part that disengages the firing pin plunger and the trigger is very heavy again. So I assume that due to the way everything interacts there is a lot of leverage on the part. So the FP block guts have a lot of effect on the trigger pull. I took the FP block part and polished everything. Unfortunately on the E-Series the FP block is plastic (maybe a nylon) so I can’t do much with it. Everything else is steel. I polished those parts and the parts of the slide they touch. I put everything back together and now have a 5.5 pound pull. So I cut the trigger pull almost in half with just polishing. I wish I could get replacement spring, so I could play with the hammer, sear, and plunger springs. I followed part one and two of this video  Complete Disassembly // S&W CSX // (Frame, Part: 1) #howto #disassembly #smithandwesson #csx He is using and original CSX but I only found 2 difference, the pin that holds the FP block in place is not a solid pin on the E-Series, it has a spring also, maybe the all of the spring but he didn’t realize it and never got it out of the slide. Attached File And there is another part with a spring in the FCG cartridge that acts a a trigger return in conjunction with the piece that disengages the firing pin block. I didn’t see this on the video either and assumed it is new. Attached File You can see how rough some of the machining was, which is likely the source of most my issues. Everything is polished now on mine. I’m tempted to pull the FB block guys out and see if that gets me back to a 3.5 pound pull, I believe it would, but would no longer be drop safe. Has anyone else found any tricks for cleaning the trigger up on these? |
Charlie Kirk lives on in all of us!
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When the CSX first came out it got beat up badly on You Tube due to the "false reset" it had. It was a click that you could feel when the trigger went forward after a shot. I bought one of the first ones and, like you, dove in to see what was the reason for that false reset. I found the firing pin safety plunger had a square edge that the trigger bar dropped off of sharply causing what appeared to be the trigger reset, but was actually a "false reset." I filed a ramp on the plunger so the bar would slide off instead of dropping off and posted it with pictures on the S&W forum. A few months later, a neighbor bought one and asked me to show them how to disassemble it for cleaning. The first thing I saw on a factory fresh gun was a ramped safety plunger like the one I fabricated myself. ----------- Just sayin'  While mine was apart, I polished everything that touched anything else, including the sear and its notch. I also took a turn or two off the plunger spring. You can get to it by banging the slide on your work bench. The plunger and spring will come out. My trigger is a crisp 3.5-4 pounds with no false reset. When the CS-E came out, I tried one at my LGS and it still had signs of the false reset like the first run guns. |