Posted: 8/23/2026 5:17:11 PM EDT
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I'm looking to avoid using an oversized ejector pin, so I was wondering if it's possible to weld a damage ejector pin hole? Looking to salvage/repair this frame for a project, and there's just a few items that need addressing. Right side ejector pin, it looks like someone used an oversized punch, and wallowed out some of the hole. I've placed an EGW pin in there for now, and it's tight enough, but I'm wondering if it's possible to to weld up this hole, and redrill it for a clean/even hole through and through: Attached File Left side is damaged a bit too, but not to same extent, I'd like to repair both but if I can only do one side, definitely wan to repair the right. Attached File Second part, is there are a few nicks on the underside of the frame/dust cover, nothing terrible, but they are deep enough I wouldn't want to polish them up. Is it possible to lay a small bead of weld and dress these? If not, what's the best option for reparing these? Attached File Attached File The plunger tube also needs replacing, but I figure that's a standard job. Can anyone recomend a shop that can do these repairs if they are feasible? |
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You are overthinking. If the ejector still hold tight, no reason to do anything further. Or you can always use a bit of Loctite to further secure ejector. What is your objective by making an old GI frame looks pretty again? The dings are there because of usage, either polish out or leave them as is. Welding will cause uneven color spots when you try to refinish in Parkerizing or bluing. Then you will have to tackle that by using spray-n-bake paint. Too much work and cost more money. |
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Ejector pin is fine, plunger tube can easily be replaced by you and none of those nicks would bother me on a springer frame. And if they did, I’d polish them out, bead blast and Reblue it. If you’re determined to build something spotless, just buy a new frame(jem, Caspian) and build a beater on that one, IMO. It would be cheaper. Unless of course, it’s a valuable gun, in which case Heirloom precision would be my go to. |
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Originally Posted By mlin: You are overthinking. If the ejector still hold tight, no reason to do anything further. Or you can always use a bit of Loctite to further secure ejector. What is your objective by making an old GI frame looks pretty again? The dings are there because of usage, either polish out or leave them as is. Welding will cause uneven color spots when you try to refinish in Parkerizing or bluing. Then you will have to tackle that by using spray-n-bake paint. Too much work and cost more money. I picked up an excellent condition USGI hard slide, so I'm gathering parts for a MEUSOC gen 1 build, was hoping I could use this frame but worst case scenario I guess I could shop around and then sell this pistol as is once I find an excellent conditon frame. |
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Originally Posted By mlin: Except for the bigger ding on the dust cover, capable gunsmith should be able to polish out the remaining without destroy the edges if that's what concerns you. It will not be perfect like new gun, but after sandblasting and re-Parkerizing for MEUSOC, it will look fine for most part. The residual dings also won't look too terrible with Parkerizing, it would be a different story for blued gun. I think minor imperfection will give the pistol character especially you are talking about MEUSOC style fighting pistol. I just got my Gen1 back from Valor Precision, Nick took cared most dings and remaining is good enough to me. You can see the slightly bigger ding right around the slide stop hole, after some polish work and sandblasting/refinish, it is less noticeable. https://i.imgur.com/4ecWqFK.jpeghttps://i.imgur.com/OWLmTkn.jpeg Perfect! So the frame is definitely serviceable, appreciate everyone’s feedback |
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Use a regular pin for the ejector, or even a piece of nail of the appropriate diameter. Cut to a tad too long. Install and center punch both ends - use punch to stake the pin in place - you'll have to rig an anvil to fit the groove. File to remove excess. Or, cut to the chase and use a roll pin! Nobody can see it until the slide is removed. I think for a MEUSOC you wouldn't mind those little dings here and there. It'll be great if you 'distress' it (age it back, as one practitioner said) when finished. If the plunger tube is tight, I would not replace it - rather, carefully ream it out where that little dent is - it doesn't have to be perfect (probably works fine as-is) and the dent will be desirable on the finished product. Be sure and post your progress on it - everybody has thought of making a MEUSOC at one point or another. |

