[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Handgun accuracy problem. (Page 2 of 2)
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It's been 20 years or so so I am am going off memory but, I owned a Beretta 92 that would only shoot 147 gr lead. This was back when I only owned one of some stuff and the Beretta was number 2 9mm the other being a p89. Nothing I ran through it would shoot. A handload consisting of a 147 gr flat nose lead sized 357 would but an entire magazine in a palm sized group. Now I own over 40 just 9mm handguns and if I was going to pick just 1 brand for out of the box accuracy, it would be CZ. Not that others arent "just as gudd" and even some really cheap Turkish guns aren't bad. When the M9A3 Berretta first came out, I had to have one. It immediately went back because of the barrel threads/bore eccentricity issues the other guy up the thread had. Also owned a 2nd gen S&W M&P 9mm that struggled to perform any accuracy at all. What's the moral of the story? Hell I don't have one op.  |
Well just fooling around at home with some iron sights, I really hate to admit it, but I don't think my eyes are up to the task at 25 yards anymore.  I am looking into maybe taping my glasses with a pinhole aperture to try to get focus on them, but that might be an exercise in futility. So, I think the plan is going to be to take the gun, 3 different barrels, 2 kinds of 124 grain ammo some 146 grain ammo, and mount a different RDS I have lying around just to see. When I first got this gun I had a Holosun mounted, but IIRC there was a little light between the sight and the mounting plate. When I had the Osight off the plate the other day, I tried holding a metal ruler against it, and it rocks a little. I think the plates have been heat treated after machining and they probably didn't do a good job of stress relieving them and they may have slightly warped. If I can fiddle with the adapter plate and the Holosun enough to get it to sit flat on the plate, I think that might be worth trying as it could eliminate another possible source of the problem if its related to the Osight and/or the mounting plate. Really the best way to test would be a Ransom Rest to remove sighting from the equation altogether, but that's over $500 and that money could be better spent on almost anything else, like ammo, a new RDS, a match barrel, sending the gun off to get it accurized, etc. I don't need bullseye competition accuracy. But I need consistent 3 inch groups at 25 yards off a rest to feel like it's good enough to run in local matches. |
IT IS THE SIGHT!  I devised a way to test the sight at home and I am pretty sure that's the culprit. I mounted a laser sight to the guns rail and zeroed it so the dot and sight overlap on a wall 20 feet away. Then I locked the slide open and dropped it with the slide stop so it would close forcefully. And what do you know? The dots were no longer aligned! It has to be something with the optic. |
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Quoted: IT IS THE SIGHT! I devised a way to test the sight at home and I am pretty sure that's the culprit. I mounted a laser sight to the guns rail and zeroed it so the dot and sight overlap on a wall 20 feet away. Then I locked the slide open and dropped it with the slide stop so it would close forcefully. And what do you know? The dots were no longer aligned! It has to be something with the optic. Could be a parallax issue. Try your test after co-zeroing everything on the iron sights. That will force you to align your eye to the same exact point. Then if the RDS moves but the laser is still aligned with the irons, you know the RDS has a wandering zero. Also triple check your laser is tight on the rail. |
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Quoted: How far off was it? Could be a parallax issue. Try your test after co-zeroing everything on the iron sights. That will force you to align your eye to the same exact point. Then if the RDS moves but the laser is still aligned with the irons, you know the RDS has a wandering zero. Also triple check your laser is tight on the rail. Quoted: Quoted: IT IS THE SIGHT! I devised a way to test the sight at home and I am pretty sure that's the culprit. I mounted a laser sight to the guns rail and zeroed it so the dot and sight overlap on a wall 20 feet away. Then I locked the slide open and dropped it with the slide stop so it would close forcefully. And what do you know? The dots were no longer aligned! It has to be something with the optic. Could be a parallax issue. Try your test after co-zeroing everything on the iron sights. That will force you to align your eye to the same exact point. Then if the RDS moves but the laser is still aligned with the irons, you know the RDS has a wandering zero. Also triple check your laser is tight on the rail. I removed the optics plate and it's warped. The sight doesn't sit flat on the top of the plate because there is a slight curve in the plate. Like the plate is an arch shape from front to back, high in the middle. I have a picture of the bottom side of the plate and you can see it was making contact at the edges of the slide cuts and no contact towards the middle of the plate. On the top side, it wasn't seating all the way down on the pins at the front of the sight becaise of the hump in the middle.  I'll have to see if I can find a place that can lap it flat on both sides, and it will probably end up being better than a brand new one. I might also peen the front and back edges of the slots so they make contact with the edges of the slide cuts so it can't move front to back. But I think these might be hardened so peening it with a punch might not work. I just hope I can find a place that will do the work with a fast turn around and not charge more than the cost of a new plate. Thay probably doesn't exist.  I have a second mounting plate I bought around the same time, and it's warped in the same way. Of course, everywhere is out of stock online, and Beretta is running a great sale right now. Same thing happened last year, all the good stuff was out of stock for the sale. I also have a Burris footprint plate, and it, too has the same warp, but much less severe. I can get a Primary Arms sight for $200 that uses that footprint and it might be the lowest cost way to get a halfway decent sight on that won't shift around. Here's a shot of the gap at the front with the mouting screws installed. If you look close you can even see a little light under the plate in the middle.  Bow underneath. 
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Quoted: Looks like you need a better plate. I don't have an optic ready Beretta. Is that an OEM plate of aftermarket? Maybe there's a better plate out there. Quoted: Looks like you need a better plate. I don't have an optic ready Beretta. Is that an OEM plate of aftermarket? Maybe there's a better plate out there. Quoted: That's a pretty severe bow from the looks of it. How much is a new plate (or a better plate, perhaps, given the QC on that one)? I could send the slide out to Langdon Tactical to get milled, but that's almost $400 before tax and shipping, plus their turn around time. They make the lowest optics mounting solution, but it requires modified slide internals and a new front sight which is part of the package. I wish you could just buy a separate slide from them already finished. I guess they used to sell them but stopped some time ago. Maybe having difficulty getting them from Beretta ir something. |
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Quoted: So this is a factory Beretta plate. A new one after tax and shipping is around $100. Scratch that, around $40. Toni System makes one, and also Dlah makes one. I think both of those are aluminum, and closer to $100. I'd prefer steel, but Beretta factory plates are the only steel ones. I could send the slide out to Langdon Tactical to get milled, but that's almost $400 before tax and shipping, plus their turn around time. They make the lowest optics mounting solution, but it requires modified slide internals and a new front sight which is part of the package. I wish you could just buy a separate slide from them already finished. I guess they used to sell them but stopped some time ago. Maybe having difficulty getting them from Beretta ir something. On one hand... $40 for a new plate seems slightly high for a new plate. And if the aluminum plates are actually better and worth the extra $60, then... On the other hand... $40 for a new plate may be the cheapest solution-- especially if the new plate has a warranty/return policy. I think this is at the point of having a less-than-optimal resolution (from the financial standpoint) no matter what you do, unfortunately. |
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Ooh I saw this from the plate thread, it's a very good chance its your barrel. My m9a4 would shoot patterns about 6" or larger and was consistent with being inconsistent across multiple ammo types and shooting from a bag. I had a silencerco threaded barrel I dropped in at the same range session, and stacked 4 out of 5 rounds with the 5th being just outside the others. Beretta more or less told me to get bent when I tried to bring it up through CS. Find a different barrel. The plate may be adding other things into the mix, but if you can find another barrel, it could be that. This was mine at 25y off a bag between factory and silencerco barrels. I don't recall exactly what ammo I was shooting for that picture, but I had 115,124,147 blazer and 124 handloads. Once I dropped the new barrel in and got that group I pretty much called it a day since that narrowed down my issue.  
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Quoted: That's the first thing I would try, different ammo. Any time I'm testing out a new gun, I bring three or four types of ammo, a mixture of brands and bullet weights. I have a few guns that don't group 115gr very well, but do much better with 124gr. Different ammo is the quickest and cheapest thing to try. On my 2.0 5" 9MM I tried a lot of ammo. Installed an Apex Tactical Trigger kit. Installed an Apex Tactical file to fit barrel. Didn't see a big improvement for what I'd spent. The I tried some ammo I hadn't yet used, Winchester 124 grain FMJ NATO. I'd be willing to carry that gun (for good groups) with that ammo. Groups were cut in half. Then, I have to say, you expect the same size groups from a Beretta you're seeing with a CZ pistol. My whole family (nephew, too) have CZ pistols and other brands. One thing we all agree on. A bad shooting CZ will often out shoot most of the rest of the pistols we have. A good shooting CZ spoils you big time. My nephew just got a P09C and installed a Holosun optic on it this last weekend. He was so happy. The XD, SA 1911, Kimber, M&P Shield Plus, etc. have become gun safe queens at his house. Good luck with the Beretta. Has to be someone with some good advice about aftermarket barrel, better trigger, etc. that may help if you can't find better shooting ammo. |
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Quoted:On one hand... $40 for a new plate seems slightly high for a new plate. And if the aluminum plates are actually better and worth the extra $60, then... It sound's too cheap. I'd be wary of the quality of a $40 optic plate. |
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Quoted: Ooh I saw this from the plate thread, it's a very good chance its your barrel. My m9a4 would shoot patterns about 6" or larger and was consistent with being inconsistent across multiple ammo types and shooting from a bag. I had a silencerco threaded barrel I dropped in at the same range session, and stacked 4 out of 5 rounds with the 5th being just outside the others. Beretta more or less told me to get bent when I tried to bring it up through CS. Find a different barrel. The plate may be adding other things into the mix, but if you can find another barrel, it could be that. This was mine at 25y off a bag between factory and silencerco barrels. I don't recall exactly what ammo I was shooting for that picture, but I had 115,124,147 blazer and 124 handloads. Once I dropped the new barrel in and got that group I pretty much called it a day since that narrowed down my issue. https://i.ibb.co/j9gjk02c/signal-2023-08-13-15-42-23-146.jpg https://i.ibb.co/KzW4p3RJ/signal-2023-08-13-15-42-00-475.jpg But, another clue that in retrospect might be an indicator of the sight moving around is how the shots were spread. I was seeing a lot of closer pairs of impacts. Or maybe I am just wired to see patterns where none exist. But if the sight was moving and staying put for a couple of shots here and there, you might see stuff like this, no?   |
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It's very possible. I ran into issues of the plate coming loose but that could have been due to some fairly hot handloads, but I also saw a complete change in how the pistol shot with the change in barrel. I really hope yours is only a funky plate since that should be a relatively inexpensive fix. |
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Yeah, well I guess we'll see when the new plate gets here. If its not warped and not loose on the slide cuts, I'll be good to go. If it's warped, I'll have to return it. If it's flat but loose (has play in it and can slide around under the screws), I will try bedding it with JB Weld. |
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Quoted: I don't know about Berettas, but $40 is cheap for an optic plate for just about any other gun. It sound's too cheap. I'd be wary of the quality of a $40 optic plate. My reference is the XD/XDM plates ($25-- came flat from factory) and the Echelon DOCTER Plate ($30-- have not bought one of these though). So, maybe HS Produkt/Springfield have skewed my perspective of what price is reasonable.
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Late to the party and you eventually did figure out its the sight so there's that. But lets look at the whole picture. 1) It's not uncommon to have to bed a sight to a plate and or a plate to a gun. It's just the nature of the beast *if* accuracy matters to you. 2) A lot of red dot sights are advertised and marketed as "parallax free" and most of them incorporate design features that minimize parallax. But the truth is they are at best "reduced" parallax, and then only when shot at the distances for which they are designed. It still pays for you as the shooter to either: - center the dot in the window consistently when you shoot to further minimize the parallax; and/or - reference the dot to the front sight post. For example I have an Uzi and an MP5, both set up with red dot sights, a Burris Fast Fire in the first, and a Holosun 507C on the second. Both are "Parallax free", but on a PDW/SMG class of weapon where they are commonly employed from 5 to 100 yards and can reach out as far as 200 yards, at the longer ranges you'll encounter some parallax. Both of them are set up so that the dot co-witnesses through the iron sights, and at longer ranges, doping so pays off in noticeably better accuracy. The MP5 will for example shoot 2.5 MOA out to the 185 yards where the bottom of the reticle zeros. But that's also an artifact of bedding the mount to the rifle and ensuring there was zero play between mount and sight. As a single claw mount, this meant using neutral shoe polish on the receiver and then filling the recess in the mount so that when clamped into place the epoxy bedding compound took up all extra play and ensured zero movement. Dye it black and wipe off the excess that extrudes out for a neat and clean installation.  In the case of the Uzi, the rds is mounted on the top cover, which isn't the most consistent base, but keeping the dot on the front sight post still serves to keep your eye in the same spot shot after shot and still minimizes any long range parallax.  3) At short ranges, shooting over the sights with the dot in the top of the window is faster and produces combat acceptable accuracy (generally defined as 3" at 25 yards). But again, in this case the dot is still centered side to side in the window as much as possible, and is generally centered between front sight post and ears and the top of the window, so while the zero may vary a bit and the alignment may not be perfect, it's still fairly consistent. The same applies to a handgun with an RDS. Center the dot as consistently as possible in the window ensures your eye is placed consistently behind the sight and limits parallax. 5) When I shoot bullseye competition with a red dot sight, I tend to stay old school with an Ultra Dot, but again keep the dot precisely in the center of the tube.  6) A red dot sight in now way reduces the need to master the basics of grip, sight alignment and trigger control. It's just a different type of sight to align, and when accuracy matters, so does precise sight alignment. |
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Quoted: My reference is the XD/XDM plates ($25-- came flat from factory) and the Echelon DOCTER Plate ($30-- have not bought one of these though). So, maybe HS Produkt/Springfield have skewed my perspective of what price is reasonable. |
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So a couple of days ago I removed the original warped plate and installed a second warped plate that I had bought at the same time last year. This plate fit the holes in the sight much tighter. I used a woodworking clamp to press the sight onto the lugs, then torqued to 18 in/lbs per the specs. As you can see, there is some light at the back of the sight, but this time there is none at the front.  This new (old, but newly installed) plate did still have a good bit of play in the slide cuts, so it could still move around on me. It does pass the "laser alignment slide drop test" I devised earlier. But, that is only replicating impact in the forward direction. It will need to be shot with live ammo to have the slide smack front to back to see if the shots stay on target. If it holds through a box of ammo and shoots decent groups at the end, I might just leave it alone. But, I do have another, newer plate coming. If it isn't warped, I will probably remove this one, epoxy bed the new plate using JB Weld, and roll with that. Even with the moving zero, it was accurate enough for self defense use inside 10 yards, but this isn't my carry gun, it's a range toy/occasional match gun and it needs to be accurate at the longer ranges. |
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Quoted: So a couple of days ago I removed the original warped plate and installed a second warped plate that I had bought at the same time last year. This plate fit the holes in the sight much tighter. I used a woodworking clamp to press the sight onto the lugs, then torqued to 18 in/lbs per the specs. As you can see, there is some light at the back of the sight, but this time there is none at the front. |
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Quoted: Are you sure the bottom of the optic is square and flat? Another test would be to lay the adapter on a piece of glass and set up a dial indicator on the edge of the plate, and then push the plate forward and watch the indicator dial as the probe moves across the surface. |
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Quoted: Yes. If I lay the optic on a piece of glass, it does not rock back and forth. If I lay the adapter plate on a piece of glass with the lugs hanging over the edge, it does rock slightly back and forth. Another test would be to lay the adapter on a piece of glass and set up a dial indicator on the edge of the plate, and then push the plate forward and watch the indicator dial as the probe moves across the surface. If that gap is behind the screws, honestly you’re probably fine. A layer or two of .001 shim stock would frankly probably completely eliminate any issues. But I also agree with you replacing the plate. Shims, while effective, shouldn’t be needed. |
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Quoted: Yes. If I lay the optic on a piece of glass, it does not rock back and forth. If I lay the adapter plate on a piece of glass with the lugs hanging over the edge, it does rock slightly back and forth. Another test would be to lay the adapter on a piece of glass and set up a dial indicator on the edge of the plate, and then push the plate forward and watch the indicator dial as the probe moves across the surface. The picture was deceiving me. It looked like the optic is curved up away from a flat mount. |
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Quoted: OK cool. Obviously you have that checked out then. The picture was deceiving me. It looked like the optic is curved up away from a flat mount.
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Quoted: If that gap is behind the screws, honestly you're probably fine. A layer or two of .001 shim stock would frankly probably completely eliminate any issues. But I also agree with you replacing the plate. Shims, while effective, shouldn't be needed. |
Well, the 2 new adapter plates arrived today. They are the old style, same as the ones I already have.  I am communicating with the Ebay seller and they said they were going to look into whether Beretta redesigned them. It doesn't look like the new versions are in stock anywhere. Anyhow, of the 2 new plates I ordered, one of them rocks on a glass plate, and the other appears to be flat. However it would still need to be bedded to the slide in order to prevent shifting around. I won't be able to update this thread until such time as I can get a new version adapter plate. |
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Quoted: Well, the 2 new adapter plates arrived today. They are the old style, same as the ones I already have. I am communicating with the Ebay seller and they said they were going to look into whether Beretta redesigned them. It doesn't look like the new versions are in stock anywhere. Anyhow, of the 2 new plates I ordered, one of them rocks on a glass plate, and the other appears to be flat. However it would still need to be bedded to the slide in order to prevent shifting around. I won't be able to update this thread until such time as I can get a new version adapter plate. Sorry to hear that, Jambalaya. It's really disappointing that you have to hope for a flat plate and then bed it just to mount an optic. I look forward to hearing how it goes when you finally get the new version of the plate and I hope it resolves the accuracy issue. |
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Quoted: Sorry to hear that, Jambalaya. It's really disappointing that you have to hope for a flat plate and then bed it just to mount an optic. I look forward to hearing how it goes when you finally get the new version of the plate and I hope it resolves the accuracy issue. The reason I'm wanting one of the new style plates is I think the tolerances might be tighter and it will not require bedding to the slide. There is still the option of pressing in some countersink bushings to allow for flat head screws, but I'd rather not have the screws taking the brunt of the recoil forces. I might try emailing Beretta and see what they have to say because this ebay seller hasn't responded in a long time. Even if they won't refund me or do an exchange, hopefully they will at least give some insight into whether there really has been a redesign. |
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Quoted: Thanks, but no worries. I love tinkering with guns. I just don't like waiting for shipping. The reason I'm wanting one of the new style plates is I think the tolerances might be tighter and it will not require bedding to the slide. There is still the option of pressing in some countersink bushings to allow for flat head screws, but I'd rather not have the screws taking the brunt of the recoil forces. I might try emailing Beretta and see what they have to say because this ebay seller hasn't responded in a long time. Even if they won't refund me or do an exchange, hopefully they will at least give some insight into whether there really has been a redesign. Tinkering is a hobby of mine as well. Even if it's just some woodworking I find that it can be a nice way to just be present. The problem with tinkering is that it's almost never cheap. It would be probably better to not have to bed it to the slide and I would email Beretta if I were in your shoes. The worst thing they'll do is not respond. |
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Can't help with the Beretta. Got one in .40 (90-Two) and it sucks compared to the CZ's I own. It stays in the safe (with the FNS .40's and the XDM pistols). My CZ's, the 9's anyway, all do well with 115 grain ammo. Never shot much 124 grain ammo through them. I'd like to find a 147 grain load that shoots in them and maybe I will, some day, but up to now the 147's make me look like a pretty sorry shooter. I agree 100% that some pistols just shoot some ammo better than others. Sometimes a pretty cheap/dirty ammo will shine in a pistol. Just works out that way. One reason the P07/P09 and probably the newer P09's (I don't need one of those as my P07/P09 pistols have been milled for dot optics years ago) is they are really tight when it comes to tolerances/lock up. My old P07 DUTY .40 is so tight, after years of carry/shooting with hot 135 grain hollow points is still so tight that when I line up the dashes on the slide/frame to remove the slide release lever I have to push the slide release out with the corner of a magazine. Even after all these years and shooting it's so tight it the slide release won't budge with just my thumb or finger pushing it to the left. The P09 9MM is almost that tight. Consistent lock up is what makes a pistol mechanically accurate (repeatable barrel position in the slide the sights are mounted on.) Hope sending the Beretta back to Beretta gets it fixed for you. The other solution might be to send it off to a company/shop that upgrades Berettas to make them better shooters. I've seen them, just don't remember the name/cost. |
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Quoted: Anyhow, of the 2 new plates I ordered, one of them rocks on a glass plate, and the other appears to be flat. However it would still need to be bedded to the slide in order to prevent shifting around.  I wonder who makes those for Beretta? You've definitely convinced me not to get Beretta optics plates for my 92.
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Quoted: Wow. I wonder who makes those for Beretta? You've definitely convinced me not to get Beretta optics plates for my 92. Quoted: Quoted: Anyhow, of the 2 new plates I ordered, one of them rocks on a glass plate, and the other appears to be flat. However it would still need to be bedded to the slide in order to prevent shifting around. I wonder who makes those for Beretta? You've definitely convinced me not to get Beretta optics plates for my 92.   That's why I think they redesigned them. There is a new hole in the picture. I just don't want to spend any more money and end up with yet another bad plate. But really, Beretta designed the optics cut and these plates are being sold on their website, so they should fit and hold zero. The Ebay guy hasn't responded since this morning. I will give him one more chance in the morning and then see if I can get a return going. I don't want to get stuck with 4 shitty plates if I can avoid it. |
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Today, I tried bending one of the plates in my vise using three 3mm dia. stainless pins. I bent one of the pins pretty good, but the plate itself didn't budge. Beretta still shows out of stock on the (hopefully) redesigned plates. Last year they were out of stock on some other part I wanted and it took them several months to go back in stock. I don't want to go to the trouble of epoxy bedding one of the old plates until they re-stock and I can get someone to tell me if they really have the new hole in them. So, it's just going to be a wait. Meanwhile, I have my CZs to shoot and other fun things to bring to the range. |
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So just to update. I'm still trying to track down the source of the problem with this gun. The barrel lockup was very loose, allowing the end of the barrel to be wiggled while in battery. My other M9s were all much tighter. I took the locking block off a spare barrel and swapped it in, and this seems to have reduced the wiggle a good bit. I took it to the range and at 25 yards, fired 20 shots. 10 of those shots hit within a 2.25" circle. 19 shots within a 5" circle and all 20 shots within an 8" circle. This is still all over the place, sadly. I've ordered a Dlah optics plate. It's tough not knowing if it's the gun, the ammo, the optics mount, the optic, the barrel or the shooter. I did bring a .22 target pistol with me on one of these range trips and got a 10 shot group entirely within 2 inches. But when you add in the 9mm recoil I can't discount my technique contributing to the problem. Using the bags to rest the gun, I'm not able to get the same 2 handed grip on it so I might be anticipating recoil or something. Maybe I just need to send it off and have LTT do thier slide cut and tell them to make it shoot good. |
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Quoted: So just to update. I'm still trying to track down the source of the problem with this gun. The barrel lockup was very loose, allowing the end of the barrel to be wiggled while in battery. My other M9s were all much tighter. I took the locking block off a spare barrel and swapped it in, and this seems to have reduced the wiggle a good bit. I took it to the range and at 25 yards, fired 20 shots. 10 of those shots hit within a 2.25" circle. 19 shots within a 5" circle and all 20 shots within an 8" circle. This is still all over the place, sadly. I've ordered a Dlah optics plate. It's tough not knowing if it's the gun, the ammo, the optics mount, the optic, the barrel or the shooter. I did bring a .22 target pistol with me on one of these range trips and got a 10 shot group entirely within 2 inches. But when you add in the 9mm recoil I can't discount my technique contributing to the problem. Using the bags to rest the gun, I'm not able to get the same 2 handed grip on it so I might be anticipating recoil or something. Maybe I just need to send it off and have LTT do thier slide cut and tell them to make it shoot good. LTT may be the best move-- especially if the barrel is suspect. If you're getting a 2in group at 25 yards with a .22LR (ammo/sighting system being unknown) I think you're doing fine with accuracy, and I wouldn't think that it is you. (Funny enough, I was going to take mine out the other day, but I still haven't got the match grade ammo I ordered.) |
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On a hunch, I took my slide off the gun and rested it on a solid surface and then looked through the sight (original Osight) and darned if there doesn't appear to be some parallax error. It might not account for all of it, but the dot does appear to move a little with head position. More so vertically than horizontally. On a rifle where you can get a cheek weld for consistency, you don't have that capability with a handgun. I'll try mounting a Holosun when I get my Dlah plate in and see if that tigtens the groups up a little. I liked the Osight because the tan color matches the M9A4, but I think chipping away at every potential source of inaccuracy will eventually hit on the one that's causing the problem. |
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I’m having accuracy issues with my M9A4 Centurion so I’m curious about your problems Op. I’m getting almost the exact same pattern you are at 25 yards while shooting off a rest. Way too low and all over the place. No optics though, just irons. I’ve only tried 115gr federal, S&B, and some 124gr Hornady critical defense. Even took it to a friend who shoots better than I. Same issues. |
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Quoted: I'm having accuracy issues with my M9A4 Centurion so I'm curious about your problems Op. I'm getting almost the exact same pattern you are at 25 yards while shooting off a rest. Way too low and all over the place. No optics though, just irons. I've only tried 115gr federal, S&B, and some 124gr Hornady critical defense. Even took it to a friend who shoots better than I. Same issues. |
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Quoted: With the gun unloaded and safe, slide closed, can you wiggle the end of the barrel around? Quoted: Quoted: I'm having accuracy issues with my M9A4 Centurion so I'm curious about your problems Op. I'm getting almost the exact same pattern you are at 25 yards while shooting off a rest. Way too low and all over the place. No optics though, just irons. I've only tried 115gr federal, S&B, and some 124gr Hornady critical defense. Even took it to a friend who shoots better than I. Same issues. Yeah |
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Quoted: OP, wouldn't it be possible to true up your plate by laying it on a piece of glass and use some valve lapping compound or fine grit sandpaper and lube? We used to do that with small engine heads and the like. |
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Quoted: Yeah Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I'm having accuracy issues with my M9A4 Centurion so I'm curious about your problems Op. I'm getting almost the exact same pattern you are at 25 yards while shooting off a rest. Way too low and all over the place. No optics though, just irons. I've only tried 115gr federal, S&B, and some 124gr Hornady critical defense. Even took it to a friend who shoots better than I. Same issues. Yeah The good news is if it's a slightly undersized locking block, it's an easy fix. Bad news is if the slide cuts for the locking block are too big, it's not an easy fix. I might try a different slide on the same frame, barrel and locking block. If the slop goes away, the slide is the culprit. |
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Quoted: My gun that I'm having trouble with does that too. I have a regular M9 that the barrel locks up pretty tight. The good news is if it's a slightly undersized locking block, it's an easy fix. Bad news is if the slide cuts for the locking block are too big, it's not an easy fix. I might try a different slide on the same frame, barrel and locking block. If the slop goes away, the slide is the culprit. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I'm having accuracy issues with my M9A4 Centurion so I'm curious about your problems Op. I'm getting almost the exact same pattern you are at 25 yards while shooting off a rest. Way too low and all over the place. No optics though, just irons. I've only tried 115gr federal, S&B, and some 124gr Hornady critical defense. Even took it to a friend who shoots better than I. Same issues. Yeah The good news is if it's a slightly undersized locking block, it's an easy fix. Bad news is if the slide cuts for the locking block are too big, it's not an easy fix. I might try a different slide on the same frame, barrel and locking block. If the slop goes away, the slide is the culprit. I may give it a try. I’ve got a friend who owns several M9’s. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Handgun accuracy problem. (Page 2 of 2)
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