Posted: 8/17/2026 1:55:22 PM EDT
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in before the peanut gallery. lol It's part of a gag gift for a friends brother.  
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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What material? What layer height? Ive seen this caused by five different things, and the order in which Id troubleshoot depends on filament type. 1. Flow Ratio [way] too high. 2. Layer height too small. 3. Heat Build Up. 4. Clogged Nozzle or too high of print speed leading to bad layer adhesion and "tearing" which gets exacerbated with each subsequent pass. 5. Excessively wet filament. Based on other hints in the print Im going with option 4 as my first hunch. You have some outer wall peeling away on the right nut, and some unadhered perimeter on the first few layers of the left nut its this behavior on the top layer that starts the rough patch which compounds more often than not.What speed, temp, and filament type? |
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Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: What material? What layer height? Ive seen this caused by five different things, and the order in which Id troubleshoot depends on filament type. 1. Flow Ratio [way] too high. 2. Layer height too small. 3. Heat Build Up. 4. Clogged Nozzle or too high of print speed leading to bad layer adhesion and "tearing" which gets exacerbated with each subsequent pass. 5. Excessively wet filament. Based on other hints in the print Im going with option 4 as my first hunch. You have some outer wall peeling away on the right nut, and some unadhered perimeter on the first few layers of the left nut its this behavior on the top layer that starts the rough patch which compounds more often than not.What speed, temp, and filament type? I didn't change any settings and I've printed actual dies successfully with the same filament. At first I thought it might be the filament was wet but couldn't figure out why one side was printing good and the other side was fubar. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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I think its gone too soft. On Petg, Its a lot like BBQ, you can go to your favorite one 87 times but on trip number 88 its total shit. PEtg is like that, a good manufacturer of it can be great but that one roll is garbage. I have also found certain colors of PETG from the same mfg will print totally different. |
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Originally Posted By Striker: It's petg (which I'm starting to really detest.) I didn't change any settings and I've printed actual dies successfully with the same filament. At first I thought it might be the filament was wet but couldn't figure out why one side was printing good and the other side was fubar. PETG is extremely, extremely easy (PLA easy) to print with if you can manage to always remember a few things: 1. It prints like shit when it's wet. And it gets wet VERY easy. It's not the most hygroscopic, but it is probably the material whose print quality suffers the most. I bet the vast majority of people who think it prints terribly, or is difficult to work with, isn't properly calibrating it and drying it upon receiving it. They see the sealed vacuum packed roll with a desiccant pack in it. That doesn't mean anything. 2. It isn't the most sensitive to heat build up, but it IS one to print like shit quickly if you do that. 3. It's sensitive to inaccurately high extrusion multipliers. Print PLA at 1.05 EM and your part will be out of spec dimensionally, and it might have a slightly rough, but still clean, top layer. Print PETG with an EM of 1.05 and you're going to have an unholy mess on your hands in all likelihood. Also, PETG prefers printing SLOW. Getting it to print exceptionally fast, AND clean, takes a LOT of experience and a LOT of tuning, and a decent hardware setup. What speeds, layer height, and nozzle diameter are you printing? And what is your layer times? Not rhetorical. I actually want to know.  Reprint it at 100mm/s max, with 50mm top layer. I bet it comes out great. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: What speeds, layer height, and nozzle diameter are you printing? And what is your layer times? Not rhetorical. I actually want to know. Reprint it at 100mm/s max, with 50mm top layer. I bet it comes out great. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Just outside perimeter speed and top surface speed. Was it varia ke layer height or no? If not, what was layer height (ignoring first layer)? top surface speed 200 mm/s layer height .2mm |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Outer wall is 5000mm/s? Seriously?  
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By Flushdraw: Are you drawing cocks again, OP?  |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By Striker: yep. I don't mess with very many settings because I have no idea what they do... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135/20260819_013746_1_-3813669.jpg Thats acceleration, not print speed.  Okay, you are still printing way too fast though. Try printing again with any print speed (not acceleration, those are fine) no higher than 150, or even 100, to test the theory. PETG generally doesnt like to be printed super fast, so that can lead to poor layer adhesion/tearing. And it also makes it print faster obviously which leads to heat build up. Both are likely contributing to your issue. Slowing the print down helps with both. If you didnt have signs of heat build up (lets say your top surface was great but you sre showing tearing of the outer wall), you could also try increasing nozzle temp a bit. Higher temps help with layer adhesion but that only goes so far and there are potential tradeoffs elsewhere. So it really is just part of your gut and learning what does and doesnt work in each situation. Work with a particular filament long enough and youll get a strong sense of what settings to start with and 99 times out of 100 you will be A-OK. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: What material? What layer height? Ive seen this caused by five different things, and the order in which Id troubleshoot depends on filament type. 1. Flow Ratio [way] too high. 2. Layer height too small. 3. Heat Build Up. 4. Clogged Nozzle or too high of print speed leading to bad layer adhesion and "tearing" which gets exacerbated with each subsequent pass. 5. Excessively wet filament. Based on other hints in the print Im going with option 4 as my first hunch. You have some outer wall peeling away on the right nut, and some unadhered perimeter on the first few layers of the left nut its this behavior on the top layer that starts the rough patch which compounds more often than not.What speed, temp, and filament type? That's a sentence I didn't expect to read today.
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EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Thats acceleration, not print speed. Okay, you are still printing way too fast though. Try printing again with any print speed (not acceleration, those are fine) no higher than 150, or even 100, to test the theory. PETG generally doesnt like to be printed super fast, so that can lead to poor layer adhesion/tearing. And it also makes it print faster obviously which leads to heat build up. Both are likely contributing to your issue. Slowing the print down helps with both. If you didnt have signs of heat build up (lets say your top surface was great but you sre showing tearing of the outer wall), you could also try increasing nozzle temp a bit. Higher temps help with layer adhesion but that only goes so far and there are potential tradeoffs elsewhere. So it really is just part of your gut and learning what does and doesnt work in each situation. Work with a particular filament long enough and youll get a strong sense of what settings to start with and 99 times out of 100 you will be A-OK. I was caffeine deficient. lol outer wall is 200mm/s top surface is 200mm/s as well |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By Striker: lol.. I was caffeine deficient. lol outer wall is 200mm/s top surface is 200mm/s as well Make them both 150. Try again. 150 is still very fast for PETG but I think its within the abilities of the X1C assuming your other settings are good and the filament is well tuned othwrwise. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Make them both 150. Try again. 150 is still very fast for PETG but I think its within the abilities of the X1C assuming your other settings are good and the filament is well tuned othwrwise. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By Striker: I actually was printing it in my H2C. does that make a difference? Apparently not.  I have an H2D, and the H2D supports higher flow rates than the H2C does due to having more thermal and heating capacity in the hotends. I print at the upper end of temp ranges to maximize strength but gives the added benefit of making PETG print nicely at a higher speed. Even so I usually cap out at 200mm/s and thats only when I dont need a super clean part, otherwise I do 150-175. |
| I print PETG almost exclusively and other than occasionally having it lift when I don't clean and glue stick the plate often enough, it prints great. I've never dried a roll of fillament. ever. I live it in the AMS for months and just fire up and print. I do have the AMS loaded up with like 10 desiccant bags. |
callmenoshie: "saying that females have the potential to be "bat shit crazy" is like saying the sky has the potential to be blue."
XCRmonger: "I've seen German Shit Porn that was sexier."
XCRmonger: "I've seen German Shit Porn that was sexier."
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Apparently not. I have an H2D, and the H2D supports higher flow rates than the H2C does due to having more thermal and heating capacity in the hotends. I print at the upper end of temp ranges to maximize strength but gives the added benefit of making PETG print nicely at a higher speed. Even so I usually cap out at 200mm/s and thats only when I dont need a super clean part, otherwise I do 150-175. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By slappomatt: I print PETG almost exclusively and other than occasionally having it lift when I don't clean and glue stick the plate often enough, it prints great. I've never dried a roll of fillament. ever. I live it in the AMS for months and just fire up and print. I do have the AMS loaded up with like 10 desiccant bags. 
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
Hoooooly wow!!!!  Is there a "how to set your slicer for optimal prints book for dummies" out there? 
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
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Originally Posted By Striker: Hoooooly wow!!!! Is there a "how to set your slicer for optimal prints book for dummies" out there? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135/20260820_005205_1_-3814138.jpg Eventually, you accumulate the whole book in your noggin'. Glad it turned out! 
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Eventually, you accumulate the whole book in your noggin'. Glad it turned out! Thanks everyone for the suggestions.. especially you Obsessed..this isn't the first time you thought "what did that dummy do now?" when you saw my thread title.
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To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.