let's see if we can fix a water well problem (Page 2 of 3)
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Originally Posted By Eyeore1966: TheWellGuy knows this of course but commonly an aerator is installed that essentially takes the water from the well and sprays it (i.e. aerating) it to dissipate the sulphur and then into a pressure tank for normal use. That pretty much solves the issue when working correctly and many people rely on them for their potable water supply. Common problem with wells near fresh water lakes/rivers for some reason. Originally Posted By Eyeore1966: Originally Posted By MethaneMover: The water well at the lake has that sulphur smell. We don't use it for potable water, just irrigation. Is there something I can apply to the well bore to treat that? Common problem with wells near fresh water lakes/rivers for some reason. I missed that you were watering grass. My advice would not apply to irrigation water. I feel terrible about giving bad advice. You gave me information I ignored. You don’t want to treat irrigation water. Water at night. Use lake water. See if that “fixes” it. I’m not going anywhere. Get back to me if you need to do more to be happy. It’s just money and that’s relative. You smell a gas. It will go into the atmosphere if it sits in a glass. Spraying will speed up the water gas separation. A vented tank with a float to turn it on and off is a common fix. A fan blowing air into the tank with a passive outlet will make this more effective. The next time you spray, it will be sulfur free. |
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Originally Posted By tangbang: Off topic? I used to have the materials to assemble pvc tube with flapper valve to manually draw water from well. I left it with the house when we sold and moved out of state. Now I want to do it or something similar again. Are you aware of what issues I should consider when thinking about how to manually draw water from a well, let’s say 150’ deep. That’s deep to jerk a pipe up and down. 150 to water or deep? Check valve on the bottom of the water line, 2 elbows in the top. So you’re spraying straight down and you don’t drop it. When you’re jerking it up and down you won’t have to be far into the water. |
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Originally Posted By Eyeore1966: When we needed to lift the drive pipe for what ever reason we would get 2 big pipe wrenches on the drive pipe to hold it, lift the pipe thread w/coupling clear of the casing then slip the modified cap on and snug it down. Pipe coupling would not slip past the modified cap on the casing so we could do what was needed without issue. Lots of pucker factor when holding that pipe with pipe wrenches cause you are screwed if you drop it. For really old school guys we used a wood post frame, pulley and the rope was wrapped around a modified truck wheel and bolted up to a idling Chevy Luv truck jacked up on one side to lift and drop the drive weight We chipped out a cavity in the limestone at the bottom with the drive point and then blew sugar sand out with a trailer air compressor. It was awesome water. I use pipe wrenches to pull sticks of pipe myself if I can’t use a machine. I got two hernias to prove it. It works. They should be at a 70 to 80 degree angle. Get strong men, take breaks, catch your breath. More people can’t hurt. Two men can pull at the same time. Take turns if you have enough people. You will get weak as you do this. That’s awesome. Sand water is the best water. |
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lots of emergency calls today. I always try to fix it the same day. Work stacks quick.
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Originally Posted By joesig: @MethaneMover My cousin has sulfur in the water at one of his houses. The builder installed a chlorine injection system which takes care of the odor bacteria. Injection pump runs when the well pump does. An ounce or less of sodium hypochlorite per pump cycle. The system is far from free but is easier than dumping bleach down a well on a regular basis. The chlorine in the bleach oxidizes the hydrogen sulfide eliminating the sulfur odor. A chemical feed pump adds chlorine to the water sys- tem. A filtering system should then remove the sulfur sediment formed. A settling tank sometimes replaces the filter system. A 500 gallon settling tank is usually big enough. A carbon filter may be used for cooking drinking or shower water to remove the sulfur sediment or any suspended materials in the water. These filters need maintenance. Iron Removal Filter looks like a water softener and requires no maintenance for a long time. They flush themselves out. The carbon needs replaced eventually. Cartridge Filters are cheap upfront but overtime will be more expensive and require regular maintenance. |
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Originally Posted By MethaneMover: Hmmmm, I bet I could build an injector and controller pretty easily. Ive never built one. Think of I v pump. Search metering pump. A venturi may be a neat way to do this if the water is already moving anyway. I'm not forty yet. I've only had control of my business for three years. I'm still trying to figure things out. I am gonna change things for the better. When my dad was alive, I could only be his little boy. I could prove him wrong and he would say. The boss is not always right, but the boss is always the boss. We never evolved unless he wanted. |
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Originally Posted By fishing_cabin: Before I ask, I know that the answer is generally don't do that. At my place I share a well with 3 others. Well house is a good 125-150 yards away and I am the furthest away, and about 50-60' higher than the well. Steel casing 6", and maybe 60 yards from a small lake/big pond. Yes, before you ask rock starts about 24" down (side of the mountain. Since I now have a neighbor young/able enough to help we plan on rebuilding/replumbing in the spring. I think the depth is 120' pump around 80'. Piping underground is 1 1/4 abs going out. Pump replaced 3 years ago I think 1 hp.(Submerged ) 40/60 switch, and a short maybe 10-12 gallon pressure tank that I am sure is waterlogged now (will be replaced). No issues with pressure per se, and am limping the pressure tank along untill spring, just adding air which I difficult. Low pressure faucets, and I do leave the supply valve for the washing machine cut back. It does eat pressure switches though maybe 2-3 a year. Besides adding valves to isolate components for maintenance, and making it taller with a man door (currently hinged tip up 4x4 a frame roof with pressure treated lumber and heavy) what changes would you suggest? Also I'm the only person on it full-time. Yes we do have plans to split the system in the future and add an additional well so demand will be less. Thanks in advance. Shared wells should never be a problem. People suck and fight over things. Even if I can meter the water so that they can divide the cost by use, they will argue over who to hire from maintenance. I had a gun pulled on me once while trying to repair a well. Distances usually not an issue. It's usually restriction. A garden hose can be a lot longer than a straw. But if you try to exhale into both, you can imagine the result. Going up you lose pressure. You can add a booster pump and fix this cheap. You're small bad pressure tank is causing a lot of issues more than you realize. This needs fixed before you do anything else. The larger the tank, the less often it will cycle. Everything is measured in numbers of cycles, not gallons. Picture City and highway driving. If the switch cycles a million times and you pump 20 gallons each time or one gallon, each time the lifespan will be in cycles. The main thing with buildings is water goes down and out. If the well is inside of a pit that makes a good funnel to put surface water into the well. The well needs properly sealed whatever that means. If you're in a colder climate when we'll make it freeze. You usually don't need to heat it. Because it's in the ground, the ground will stay warm. In the winter, the guy working in the pit is the warmest one. |
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Changed a good working 50 year old pump today. Owner was old pump was original. If you notice the date, everything is 1974 This is what quality properly adjusted will get you.  Casing was not thick enough. Set two deep for thickness. Ground collapsed it.  
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| I will try to edit this in the morning and reread this so I can fix my mistakes. When I make a mistake it needs pointed out. I may not go back and correct it if i'm not told. We have been talking about sulfur a lot. This is a regional issue a man had. Mentioned, only two people on a lake have sulfur maybe they do, maybe they have a leaking septic system. Without good information, we cannot make good decisions. This water needs tested to verify what it is. The correct way to treat sulfur depends on the concentration. There are many ways to do things but there is only one best. Almost every job I go on. I'm not allowed to do my best. People have budgets I must respect. |
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Originally Posted By doyouquaxu: Bought a house in September with an ~140ft well. Water comes out the top. Called the company that drilled it and they don't seem concerned. Should I be? Well was dug in the 90's, and it was an extremely wet summer in NH. What are signs my pump may be going out before it dies so I can look out for it? As far as I know its the OG pump. @doyouquaxu Give me a better description of the water coming out of the top. Artesian and its flowing over inside of the casing. Leak inside of the well in its spraying out from inside of the casing. A waterline leaking outside of the well and it's running up beside the casing. (Probably) Artesian well, and it's running up beside the casing and out. Turning the power off at the breaker can tell you if you're pumping this water. |
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Originally Posted By TheWellGuy: @doyouquaxu Give me a better description of the water coming out of the top. Artesian and its flowing over inside of the casing. Leak inside of the well in its spraying out from inside of the casing. A waterline leaking outside of the well and it's running up beside the casing. (Probably) Artesian well, and it's running up beside the casing and out. Turning the power off at the breaker can tell you if you're pumping this water. Delayed, sorry. Forgot to check back in. I take the cap off and water is coming out the casing then spilling down the sides. The casing sticks up past the grade of my yard about 1ft. Happens with pump on, pump off/power off. |
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Attached File ** I just started a thread and didnt realize this one was currently going. ** Ive got tannins that get into my well water whenever we get an unusually high amount of rain. It usually takes about a day or two after the rain before the water starts to discolor. I have a shallow well (28 ft) and I live in southeast VA. I moved to this house 8 years ago. The first time this happened was after a noreaster that dumped about 3 inches over 16 hours. I freaked out and sent my water off for testing. Everything was good. Now I do a home test once a year and send off a test once a year. Ive never had a test come back showing anything out of the ordinary. I have very little iron, no unusual mineral concentrations, no cysts, bacteria, pesticides, herbicides or VOC's. I have a large farm that borders the back of my property, maybe a quarter mile from my well, so thats why I have the tests done. Ive got a spindown filter, a couple pleated filters (a 30 micron and a 1 micron) and a water softener that was my ex-wifes idea. Does anyone here have tannins and actually have a cost effective way to deal with them? All the neighbors who have shallow wells like me have the same issue and dont care at all. I dont want to spend 2k for a filter that I only need 2 weeks a year. I have a ton of pine trees on the property that seems to be the culprit. A deep well is definitely not in the budget. Do activated carbon filters work at all for this? We just got a ton of rain last week and this is the water coming out of my faucets. |
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The small pipe the wire is coming up "the condit" would be a leak in the ground with the power off eventually it would stop leaking, but it would leak for quite a while until the pressure tank is drained. You could speed that process up by turning a garden hose on. That would be the fitting where the water line comes out of the well. A leak at the pittless adapter. Very common. Coming out of the casing or the well in a spray is a leak. Flowing would be an "artesian well" ground water under pressure. There are risks to stopping this. Water coming up the outside of the casing, threatening the integrity of the well or pushing the well casing out of the ground or neither. You could extend the pipe up until it stops. Cut the pipe barely above where the water level stops. You could put a well seal in it. The seal would be too hard things with a piece of rubber when you tighten it seals. You could also relieve the pressure below the ground into a tile or above the ground into a tile. Think on that and @ me. |
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Originally Posted By TurkeyLeg: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/141830/20240310_103410_jpg-3155327.JPG I dont want to spend 2k for a filter that I only need 2 weeks a year. I have a ton of pine trees on the property that seems to be the culprit. A deep well is definitely not in the budget. Do activated carbon filters work at all for this? Cartridge filters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N41DBSW?tag=arfcom00-20 Backwash filter https://www.ebay.com/itm/116100871860?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=116100871860&targetid=4580428016871226&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603247657&mkgroupid=1229254994528356&rlsatarget=pla-4580428016871226&abcId=9316139&merchantid=51291&msclkid=b80d0578d65015282d0d6081c8e67af3 Install after the water softer |
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The first option needs a carbon filter after it, correct? Does the second one? I currently have mine set up this way: Pump -> Spindown filter with coarse mesh -> Tank -> 30 micron pleated -> 1 micron pleated - > softener. I can easily replumb for an extra filter if necessary. I also know youre not supposed to put any filter in front of the tank but ive never had an issue with the coarse spindowns. |
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Great timing. My brother has a shallow irrigation well that is basically pumping rust, to the point that his greenery is now dying. It appears to be a very shallow single pipe with above ground pump and check valve. He was quoted $3k for a new well, and is wondering if there is anything he can do to treat the existing well. @TheWellGuy |
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Originally Posted By TurkeyLeg: The first option needs a carbon filter after it, correct? I don't think you would need a carbon filter for either. Pump -> Spindown filter with coarse mesh -> Tank -> 30 micron pleated -> 1 micron pleated - > softener. I also know you're not supposed to put any filter in front of the tank, but I've never had an issue with the coarse spindowns. The problem with a filter before the tank is it could plug, and the switch cannot sense the pressure. @TurkeyLeg |
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Originally Posted By Skinnywater: Great timing. My brother has a shallow irrigation well that is basically pumping rust, to the point that his greenery is now dying. It appears to be a very shallow single pipe with above ground pump and check valve. He was quoted $3k for a new well, and is wondering if there is anything he can do to treat the existing well. Verify the pressure tank is good by relieving the water pressure after turning the power off. Two psi less than cut in no water trapped in the tank. Cycling on and off often can make more iron. Make sure the water pressure doesn't move when the water is not running. Leaking water in the well will produce iron by stirring up the water aerating it. Pump the well for an extended period to flush it out. Days if it doesn't run dry. Chlorinate the well with 10% or 12% swimming pool chlorine and white vinegar. Chlorinate first with a garden hose in the well to circulate and white vinegar to ph @ 6-7 after its mixed. Let sit or let it circulate for 24 hours and pump until clear and no odor. Repeat until no discoloration. @ me if that doesn't work. Sand is your enemy if you start pumping sand. @Skinnywater |
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@TheWellGuy Water pipe vibrations - how to stop them? Submerged pump controlled by a VFD, 115 gal bladder tank. Open loop Geothermal that uses 10 gal/min. When the geo is in operation, I can hear the VFD cycle from low to high and back again, trying to maintain the set pressure (about 48 psi), usually keeps it within +/- 2psi of the setpoint. However, about once every 20 seconds or so, it "bottoms out" which causes a vibration in the pipes before it ramps the pump speed back up. I tried lowering and raising the pressure setpoint, but it still bottoms out about once every 20 seconds, causing a vibration in the pipes. Do I need to adjust my bladder tank precharge pressure to fix this or do you have another suggestion? ETA: Speaking of bladder tank precharge pressure, what do you recommend it be set at, since this is a constant pressure system? Still 2psi below pump cut-in pressure? |
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Originally Posted By TheWellGuy: @Mad_Anthony is the sensor after the tank? 70% of the cut in is the correct air charge.https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/593438/Screenshot_20240406_000114_Drive-3179515.jpg @TheWellGuy Attached File Tank precharge is set to 33.5 psi. |
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I would probably plug that sensor hole with another gauge. That way you've got two. I like gauges Get a long stainless steel washing machine hose. A male adapter to put the sensor into it, hook the other end up to your boiler drain real close to the tank and see if it stops ramping up and down. Water is dense. The pressure may be going up and down before it goes out because your sensor is too close to where it's coming in not after the tank enough. The air in the tank is the shock absorber. Like a high-speed frequency it's not evened out quick enough. So you're sensing the extremes, high low high low. @Mad_Anthony |
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Originally Posted By TheWellGuy: I would probably plug that sensor hole with another gauge. That way you've got two. I like gauges Get a long stainless steel washing machine hose. A male adapter to put the sensor into it, hook the other end up to your boiler drain real close to the tank and see if it stops ramping up and down. Water is dense. The pressure may be going up and down before it goes out because your sensor is too close to where it's coming in not after the tank enough. The air in the tank is the shock absorber. Like a high-speed frequency it's not evened out quick enough. So you're sensing the extremes, high low high low. @Mad_Anthony @TheWellGuy I have to admit I'm nervous about installing a hose due to the rupture potential. Could I instead spin that boiler drain out and install a tee so I can mount the sensor down by the boiler drain? Or is some length of pipe required for the sensor to put some distance between it the main line? |
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@Mad_Anthony sorry busy day. If it's a nice stainless steel one I wouldn't be any more worried than the ones that are hooked up to your washing machine. If you want to hard plumb it, just put a union and then an elbow and bring it straight up. That way it's easy to change it or work on. That sensor needs to be straight up that is recommended. You could buy a pressure snubber. A device that is used to suppress the effect of pressure pulses and pressure peaks. They are cheap. Some have cylinders, and others are sintered. Whenever I do constant pressure, which I do a lot, I just use a stop cycle valve in the well. If you have a lot of minerals, they can build up in the valve other than that no problems. You already have a vfd so no point in changing it. https://cyclestopvalves.com |
 @TheWellGuy I have to replace my pressure tank due to it being water logged. I can get a 36gallon for $266 after rebate from menards or a 44gallon for $349 from home depot. Is the extra 8 gallons worth the extra $80?It's replacing a 20 gallon tank from 1987 and the pump is the same age. I found the tag from the pump with the well info and it has a 42gal pressure tank size listed on it. I believe it's a meyers s2j52 pump and a 1/2hp but I can't find the gpm it pumps. |
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@stik87 sorry for the late response. Get the 36 gallon from menards don't worry about the size other then stepping up from the 20 you will probably need a 1 1/4 x 1" bushing a 1"x6 nipple and 1" female coupling made of brass or stainless because the new tank is going to be wider. 2psi less air than the water cut in pressure. 38psi air and 40-60 pressure switch |
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Originally Posted By TheWellGuy: @stik87 sorry for the late response. Get the 36 gallon from menards don't worry about the size other then stepping up from the 20 you will probably need a 1 1/4 x 1" bushing a 1"x6 nipple and 1" female coupling made of brass or stainless because the new tank is going to be wider. 2psi less air than the water cut in pressure. 38psi air and 40-60 pressure switch @TheWellGuy No worries, I saw your response as I was already installing it. I ended up getting the one from menards as I didn't feel like going to Madison. The tank on the old one didn't have long to live like a though because as I broke the union apart it also broke the fitting loose on the bottom of the tank and helped me drain it .I put a new 30/50 pressure switch on it that I had on the shelf and I'm getting about 56-57sec of run time while it fills the tank back up but I might futz with it tomorrow and put more air/turn pressure switch up to 40/60. It's also so much quieter now. Also the wires on the original pressure switch were backwards from the diagram on the new one with the line wires on the inside terminals and load on the outside |
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| 2 psi less air is a general guide. You want the pump to turn on without the psi dropping rapidly before the switch turns on. You have to turn off the power and drain the water before checking air pressure. When you turn the power back on, the pressure should almost immediately reach the air charge pressure and then slowly fill the tank as it compresses the air. Once it pumps up and shuts down, drain the water pressure until it is where you want the on set point. Tighten the big nut in the center until the pump turns on and you have set the switch. The nut should be a 3/8 |
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Just saw this Thread when I was looking for an issue I am currently experiencing. Thank you @TheWellGuy I have low water pressure in the house for the last couple Days. Today I went to investigate and I am not able to make sense of this. - my bladder tank is completely empty, it looks like there was some sediment in the feed/drain pipe but it did not seam to me to be enough to clog it completely, although that might be possible. - (Air) pressuure in the Tank reads with my shitty gauge at somewhat 37PSI which is for me close enough to the 38 it should have. - my Gauge at the T of bladder Tank/Feed reads 22psi - The pressure switch (40/60, but cant verify right now) calls for the Pump to run and seams to be working fine. - We are not running out of water in the house its just constantly with very little pressure / flow. I have a Shutoff / Relief valve shortly behind the bladder Tank before the Filters and when i open it water comes out with a very steady stream (better than in the rest of the house), but that is before filters n shiiet. Before I replace the Tank to no avail I have a couple Questions : -what is a ballpark number in pressure that my Pump (3/4HP) should be able to provide even if the Tank is completely non functional ? 22 Seems low to me. -why the hell is that sucker not filling up ? - how can i prevent sedimment from going into the tank, should there be a filter in the Pipe before the tank ? Is it in the Well ? Very thankfull for any help. |
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@Baq The air pressure is higher than the water pressure, resulting in an air-filled tank. This is the intended state until the water pressure surpasses the air pressure and fills the tank. When the pump is deactivated, the air in the tank expands, propelling water into the residence. A 40/60 pressure switch requires a pressure of 38 pounds. 37 is fine. A low pressure of 22 PSI should trigger the pressure switch to activate the pump, indicating its properly functioning. The constant running of the pump with minimal pressure or flow suggests a potential leak. To verify this, turn off the circuit breaker and observe if the pressure drops. If the pressure remains at 22 pounds, the pump is not generating sufficient pressure. A submersible pump (3/4HP) should generate approximately 120 PSI, while a jet pump can produce 50 to 100 PSI even with a non-functional tank. However, the pressure fluctuations would be more pronounced. It is not possible to prevent sediment from entering the tank, a filter should never be installed in the pipe before the tank. A clogged filter could prevent the pressure switch from sensing pressure, causing the pump to run continuously until it malfunctions or ruptures a water line. |
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Originally Posted By TheWellGuy: @Baq The air pressure is higher than the water pressure, resulting in an air-filled tank. This is the intended state until the water pressure surpasses the air pressure and fills the tank. When the pump is deactivated, the air in the tank expands, propelling water into the residence. A 40/60 pressure switch requires a pressure of 38 pounds. 37 is fine. A low pressure of 22 PSI should trigger the pressure switch to activate the pump, indicating its properly functioning. The constant running of the pump with minimal pressure or flow suggests a potential leak. To verify this, turn off the circuit breaker and observe if the pressure drops. If the pressure remains at 22 pounds, the pump is not generating sufficient pressure. A submersible pump (3/4HP) should generate approximately 120 PSI, while a jet pump can produce 50 to 100 PSI even with a non-functional tank. However, the pressure fluctuations would be more pronounced. It is not possible to prevent sediment from entering the tank, a filter should never be installed in the pipe before the tank. A clogged filter could prevent the pressure switch from sensing pressure, causing the pump to run continuously until it malfunctions or ruptures a water line. Thank you very much for the Post, I bought an Amp Meter and will see what the Pump is getting when running, I will also check the relay in the control box if possible. Would you agree that other than that everything points to something wrong in the well itself ? Either blockage, Leakage or Pump ? |
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| Born in 48. As a child we had a dug well about 600 ft up a hill. Dad had water in the house siphon from the well. Worked for several years till dad bought a pump to up the pressure. House was lower than bottom of well. His dad had a dug well that was maybe 90 ft, took forever to wind a bucket up. Had a uncle that dug and cleaned wells, told of one about 100 ft that had tiles only about 60 ft from ground level. Also had a uncle tell of some kin that hid his gold money in a hole in the well wall, had to let his kid down to get it. Just some old memories. I myself have pulled tiles from an old well to use as culvert. These old wells had 30 or 36 in cement tiles. We still have 2 on the place we can use in emergency. |
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@TheWellGuy We live in coastal GA and sulfur in the well water is common. We recently had a Provectr filter installed to remove the iron and sulfur. The backwash cycle was set for every 3 days (5 people live in our house). It worked flawlessly for two months, but recently, we have been getting sulfur odor in our water again after only a day and a half from the last regeneration cycle. Any ideas what may be causing this? And, will it hurt our system to regenerate it every day? Because that seems like what we are going to need to do. Or, is it just likely our system isn’t working properly? I wanted to get another opinion before I have our water person who installed it come out and check. Thanks! |
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@Krombompulos_Michael Did you install a new water heater? Is the time of day on the unit correct? The display should alternate between the current time of day and the number of days remaining or gallons remaining. If the valve is going through a regeneration cycle, the display will show the cycle step on the left side of the display and the number of minutes remaining in that step on the right side of the display. If any other information is being displayed, then the valve is informing you of an issue. Give me some time and I will talk to a sales rep. |
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Thanks so much for the reply! Deeply appreciated The water heater is newer, 3 years old. The sulfur smell is coming from the cold water though so I don’t think it is bacteria in the hot water tank. The clock is displaying the correct time and syncs with my phone via a blue tooth app so I can set everything with my phone. It gives me a readout of gallons used, and lets me set the regeneration frequency and time. It seems like it is processing fewer gallons before needing to regenerate than it did when new. Per the app, the meter on our Provectr filter shows we use about 154 gallons per day. Thanks again! ETA - the unit is a Watersoft 2.5 cuft Provectr @TheWellGuy |
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Originally Posted By RebelBoxer: What is the best wood to use for a bucket? Mine seems to weaken, and needs replaced often, from hitting the sides while lowering. Last time I seen one of those was on my great Grand parents Farm on my mom's side. They had this ""Pump house" out back that was may 10'x10' shed the well walls were stone about 4-4.5' tall and shaped like a giant octagon maybe 6' across and about 50+ feet deep. At the bottom, you could see water rushing by like a dang river. down about 2000 yards on the same property, they had a second. When you went down to it, you could see what looked like the same water rushing by it too. I always wondered, if someone dropped a soccer ball or even a smaller baseball sized floaty ball in the top one and you waited at the second if, the ball would ever make it and pass you down there? |
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""AKs are for villagers you have to tell not to shit in their water supply.""
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CO, USA
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Originally Posted By Krombompulos_Michael: Thanks so much for the reply! Deeply appreciated The water heater is newer, 3 years old. The sulfur smell is coming from the cold water though so I don’t think it is bacteria in the hot water tank. The clock is displaying the correct time and syncs with my phone via a blue tooth app so I can set everything with my phone. It gives me a readout of gallons used, and lets me set the regeneration frequency and time. It seems like it is processing fewer gallons before needing to regenerate than it did when new. Per the app, the meter on our Provectr filter shows we use about 154 gallons per day. Thanks again! ETA - the unit is a Watersoft 2.5 cuft Provectr @TheWellGuy @Krombompulos_Michael Did you ever get your water fixed? Who did the initital install and who fixed it? I'm having problems with ours... |
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@Krombompulos_Michael @purple85 The delay was due to waiting for a response from my colleague. He identified common issues as leaking or cracked O-rings, a stuck float, and a plugged check valve. Should further assistance be required, I can forward your images, pose additional questions, email the twenty-page manual to you, or provide my colleague's contact information—please let me know your preference.      
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@TheWellGuy Yes, it was resolved. Thanks for the follow up. The Provectr filter was working fine. It turns out that the bacteria that produces the sulfur had bloomed, and the amount of sulfur gas produced was overwhelming the filter. We shocked the well by pouring a gallon of bleach into the well head, waiting an hour, then flushing the house plumbing by running water until we could smell the bleach. Let it sit, then ran it again for a couple hours. The filter is now set to 4 days again. Our water guy said that every 4-6 months we may need to shock the well again to keep the sulfur producing bacteria in check. As a plus, shocking the well greatly improved the taste of the water. Thanks again! |
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KS, USA
| I drilled my own water well to 25 foot. Have good water, lots of sand. Live in Midwest with low water table. I now wish I had gone 20 foot deeper. 4 inch pvc casing. Can i drill out the bottom of my pvs pip and drill another 20 foot and then sleeve it with 3 inch pvc to get more into the reservoir? |
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Been at the house 22 years. Well is artesian 80ft deep, Sulphur, manganese, coliforms, arsenic lotta shit in it. I have chlorine injection with a pulse pump thing works with water flow, and 2 large media filters tanks 1 is carbon. Then one smaller changeable type 1 media the other is carbon I change those every 6 months. Used to be the rotten egg smell would come into the house water once maybe twice a year. I can manually hook the chlorine line to the house water and turn on all the faucets and pump chlorine through it and let it sit for a few hours. It gets rid of the smell for about a month if that, then the egg smell comes back. The only thing that has changed is the HWT, it gave out so put in a new one and the smell was gone for about 3 or 4 months then it came back big time. I again can nuke it with the chlorine but my suspicion is it's the anodes in the HWT. I was going to swap it out with a different type of anode, but that f'ing thing isn't coming out. Thoughts, since your asking about problems? Thanks! Jim @TheWellGuy |
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@kansasfly09 How did you make the first well? 3" pvc will fit inside of 4" but you are sucking sand as the velocity of the water is too high. You can try pumping slower for a longer time or possibly from higher up. I worry about the current well becoming damaged but my first thought is add pipe to the top run a 1" airline from a tow behind compressor to the bottom or just below to make new hole. Start adding pressure to push the casing down as you jab the bottom to try to chase the new hole below it. This would allow you to see what's coming up as you are making hole. Hope for gravel not sand. Would you be opposed to trying a new one near the waterline going in? Do you have a screen on the well casing or is it open on the bottom? https://www.shop-esp.com/4-x-60-PVC-Water-Well-ScreenbrPlain-Ends-Sch40-P3010.aspx Is the waterline coming out of the top or is it through the side? Do you have any close neighbors to compare wells? https://www.kgs.ku.edu/Magellan/WaterWell/index.html |
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@JimmyAR Good problem to have. It's going to take a 1 1/6 six point deepwell socket. I've used a long pipe on a breaker bar and between the two waterlines coming out the top. Squeezing for all I'm worth while someone held the socket down. Battery powered impact and have even been able to warranty them because I failed to remove them. You can call them or I will do it for you. They are going to want to know that a professional tried. That the shoulders rounded and that an extractor was used in the attempt. You can cutoff the anode rod or replace it with a different material or a powered anode rod. I use https://www.amazon.com/Corro-ProtecTM-Eliminates-Corrosion-Limescale-Electrical/dp/B01H459TAK |
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New question......I have a lakeplace in NW Wisconsin with a shallow well located in the basement. I winterize it before I return to my home in Florida, the one concern I've always had is whether the well head eventually drains the water from the check valve. Does the prime hold for months, should I put heat tape around the pipe? I keep the heat on at 50, so far its been good for the past 4 years since I purchased the propery. I'm just worried if/when the heat is lost. I'm 1700 miles away from the place so I can't address it immediately. Have a wifi temp gauge to moniter temp. |
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@TheWellGuy Maybe you have some tips for me. I set up a shallow spring with a submersible pump for supplemental water, outside hoses, toilet flushes, washing machine. This results in two likely related issues. 1) I need to replace the whole house water filters on this system every couple months. (spring algae?) 2) The pump control on this system sometimes sticks and I need to give it a tap. My plan is to someday improve light containment at the spring, maybe concrete walls and light tight lid. any ideas to reduce filters and taps? |
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