Posted: 8/23/2026 1:21:10 AM EDT
I figure that title should get some attention  I have a 2 post lift in my garage that has/uses to a 240v 50amp outlet. Im getting a 4 post lift installed in the same garage near to the 2 post. The 4 post calls for a 110v 30amp outlet. My issue is while my garage had 8 110v outlets, they are all on 15 amp breakers. Is there any kind adaptor out there (RV maybe??) that i can plug in the 110v from the 4 post into the 240v that the 2 post uses? The 2 posts gets uses WAY more than the 4 post will ever see, i just needed more room in the garage. |
| I wouldn't recommend it, but... 50A to 30A RV adapter |
Now with more political fatigue.
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Originally Posted By azmp5: I figure that title should get some attention I have a 2 post lift in my garage that has/uses to a 240v 50amp outlet. Im getting a 4 post lift installed in the same garage near to the 2 post. The 4 post calls for a 110v 30amp outlet. My issue is while my garage had 8 110v outlets, they are all on 15 amp breakers. Is there any kind adaptor out there (RV maybe??) that i can plug in the 110v from the 4 post into the 240v that the 2 post uses? The 2 posts gets uses WAY more than the 4 post will ever see, i just needed more room in the garage. Can you use something like this? Not sure if the amperage will work. It’s for hooking a gas stove igniter to an electric stove outlet. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-Gas-Range-Adapter-73619940/302183109 I bet you could make an adapter using a 240v plug that would work. Not ideal and probably wouldn’t pass any inspections but it would work. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally Posted By ColtRifle: Can you use something like this? Not sure if the amperage will work. It’s for hooking a gas stove igniter to an electric stove outlet. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-Gas-Range-Adapter-73619940/302183109 I bet you could make an adapter using a 240v plug that would work. Not ideal and probably wouldn’t pass any inspections but it would work. And your Insurance company would use that as an excuse to deny your claim. 
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Originally Posted By n0zzle: And your Insurance company would use that as an excuse to deny your claim. Maybe where you live but not where I live. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Dont give the insurance company any reason to deny a claim. Ive heard of insurance denying claims even when it isnt the source of a loss. Do it right, pull a permit and get it inspected. Electric like this is some of the easiest DIY stuff there is. Believe it or not, there are places in the US where there are are no permits or inspections. Don’t know about the OP’s location though. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally Posted By ColtRifle: Believe it or not, there are places in the US where there are are no permits or inspections. Don’t know about the OP’s location though. Cirrect, in four or five states this is true, HOWEVER insurance companies can still deny claims if the NEC was not followed, even if a permit or inspection is not required. |
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Originally Posted By osprey21: I wouldn't recommend it, but... 50A to 30A RV adapter This is actually what I was thinking (didn't know it was a thing though). Why would it be "bad" to use? *genuinely asking. I could see how if I was going to use my 4 post as much as my 2 post, I woupd put in a dedicated 110v/30a line for it. But between now and maybe the new years, the car that would bule on the 4 post may come down twice. **it's a project car and I have 2 other project cars I need to finish up first
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Originally Posted By ColtRifle: Can you use something like this? Not sure if the amperage will work. It’s for hooking a gas stove igniter to an electric stove outlet. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-Gas-Range-Adapter-73619940/302183109 I bet you could make an adapter using a 240v plug that would work. Not ideal and probably wouldn’t pass any inspections but it would work. This is exactly what I was thinking. I just dont know of either of these (this 1 and the above one) would be ideal to use. I am having an electrician stop by early next week and give me a quote. He's done a few jobs for me and is WAY more reasonable than most places. |
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Originally Posted By azmp5: This is actually what I was thinking (didn't know it was a thing though). Why would it be "bad" to use? *genuinely asking. I could see how if I was going to use my 4 post as much as my 2 post, I woupd put in a dedicated 110v/30a line for it. But between now and maybe the new years, the car that would bule on the 4 post may come down twice. **it's a project car and I have 2 other project cars I need to finish up first Does your 240 outlet even have a neutral? You need a neutral to use it for 120 volts. (Yes, it's 120, not 110. Voltage in this country has been 120/240 for many decades.) You could easily convert the 240 outlet to a 30 amp 120 outlet, if the wire is big enough. That would be the only solution if there is no existing neutral. You just move one of the legs in the panel to the neutral buss (after wrapping it with white tape). Change the outlet, again identifying the neutral, and change the breaker from a double to a single. It needs to have at least #10 wire for it to be a 30 amp circuit, though. |
9 lives - 9 pellets... Coincidence?
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Originally Posted By ske714: Does your 240 outlet even have a neutral? You need a neutral to use it for 120 volts. (Yes, it's 120, not 110. Voltage in this country has been 120/240 for many decades.) You could easily convert the 240 outlet to a 30 amp 120 outlet, if the wire is big enough. That would be the only solution if there is no existing neutral. You just move one of the legs in the panel to the neutral buss (after wrapping it with white tape). Change the outlet, again identifying the neutral, and change the breaker from a double to a single. It needs to have at least #10 wire for it to be a 30 amp circuit, though. My 240 outlet is a 4 prong, so I beleive it does (sorry, idk electrical all that well). But it should be 2 positives, ground and neutral...right? Could I put a 110/30a outlet next to the 240 outlet (basically piggy back off the 240 line) and just plug in the 110 when I need to use it? It would be physically impossible for me to operate the 2 post lift AND the 4 post at the same time. I would just have to probably run a 10 gauge extension cord. |
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Originally Posted By azmp5: My 240 outlet is a 4 prong, so I beleive it does (sorry, idk electrical all that well). But it should be 2 positives, ground and neutral...right? Could I put a 110/30a outlet next to the 240 outlet (basically piggy back off the 240 line) and just plug in the 110 when I need to use it? It would be physically impossible for me to operate the 2 post lift AND the 4 post at the same time. I would just have to probably run a 10 gauge extension cord. Originally Posted By azmp5: Originally Posted By ske714: Does your 240 outlet even have a neutral? You need a neutral to use it for 120 volts. (Yes, it's 120, not 110. Voltage in this country has been 120/240 for many decades.) You could easily convert the 240 outlet to a 30 amp 120 outlet, if the wire is big enough. That would be the only solution if there is no existing neutral. You just move one of the legs in the panel to the neutral buss (after wrapping it with white tape). Change the outlet, again identifying the neutral, and change the breaker from a double to a single. It needs to have at least #10 wire for it to be a 30 amp circuit, though. My 240 outlet is a 4 prong, so I beleive it does (sorry, idk electrical all that well). But it should be 2 positives, ground and neutral...right? Could I put a 110/30a outlet next to the 240 outlet (basically piggy back off the 240 line) and just plug in the 110 when I need to use it? It would be physically impossible for me to operate the 2 post lift AND the 4 post at the same time. I would just have to probably run a 10 gauge extension cord. Assuming that the 240 circuit is at least 30 amps, what I would probably do is make your 10 gauge extension cord with a 30 amp,120 volt receptacle on one end, and a 4 prong plug on the other, with only one leg, the neutral, and ground wired. That way you can plug it in and get 120, you keep your 240, and you don't have to do anything sketchy. |
9 lives - 9 pellets... Coincidence?
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Originally Posted By ske714: Assuming that the 240 circuit is at least 30 amps, what I would probably do is make your 10 gauge extension cord with a 30 amp,120 volt receptacle on one end, and a 4 prong plug on the other, with only one leg, the neutral, and ground wired. That way you can plug it in and get 120, you keep your 240, and you don't have to do anything sketchy. Sorry, I thought i put that. It's a 240v/50a breaker. That sounds like a possible idea. Thanks. |
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Do you have room in your panel for an additional breaker? If so, it's really not that hard to install a new breaker, drop some wire, and install a new outlet. I'm kind of assuming your panel is in your garage, so the wire run wouldn't be too terribly long and/or difficult. Then just install the 30A breaker (matched to your panel, ie Eaton panel needs an Eaton breaker because not all breakers are compatible with all panels), and wire in the 120v outlet that you need by itself. They sell "old work" outlet boxes that you can just install in the drywall if you need it flush mounted (they self-secure with two folding tabs that rotate as your tighten the mounting screws) and can run the wire behind your drywall from the panel all the way to the outlet. Or you can buy a single box and mount it on the drywall (not flush mounted) and secure it to a stud, along with some maybe metal clad wire (and wire clamps / pipe straps to secure wire to the wall) since it will be secured on the outside of your drywall. (Opinion from a non-licensed guy) Here are some examples, feel free to look around at other ideas. "Old work" box:  https://www.lowes.com/pd/CANTEX-1-Gang-PVC-Old-work-Switch-Outlet-Electrical-Box/5001729087?user=shopping&feed=yes-_-0?store=&cm_mmc=shp-_-b-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-PLA_ELC_000_PRO-_-5001729087-_-online-_-21012065440-_-&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21012065440&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_onix5e3lgMVt3d_AB2nIxjgEAQYBCABEgLsvfD_BwE Stand-alone box, good to mount on the outside of your drywall:  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Electric-1-Gang-Weatherproof-Box-1-Gang-Gray-Metal-Weatherproof-New-Work-Standard-Rectangular-Exterior-Electrical-Box/1098639 Metal Clad wire (note this is an example of 12/2, not sure if that is the proper size for what you need)  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Armorlite-50-ft-12-2-Solid-Aluminum-Mc-Cable/5015081221 |
The Emperor is naked.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Cirrect, in four or five states this is true, HOWEVER insurance companies can still deny claims if the NEC was not followed, even if a permit or inspection is not required. I’ve seen insurance claims paid even for damage caused by crazy stuff. Stuff that would never be considered correct. The biggest issue is people don’t know how to negotiate and coordinate with insurance companies. I think the whole “it better be right or it will be denied” is mostly internet rumor. Elements of truth but not common. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally Posted By ske714: Assuming that the 240 circuit is at least 30 amps, what I would probably do is make your 10 gauge extension cord with a 30 amp,120 volt receptacle on one end, and a 4 prong plug on the other, with only one leg, the neutral, and ground wired. That way you can plug it in and get 120, you keep your 240, and you don't have to do anything sketchy. I like that idea. Will work and be perfectly safe. |
"It behooves every man to remember that the work of the critic is of altogether secondary importance, and that, in the end, progress is accomplished by the man who does things."
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally Posted By ColtRifle: I’ve seen insurance claims paid even for damage caused by crazy stuff. Stuff that would never be considered correct. The biggest issue is people don’t know how to negotiate and coordinate with insurance companies. I think the whole “it better be right or it will be denied” is mostly internet rumor. Elements of truth but not common. Originally Posted By ColtRifle: I’ve seen insurance claims paid even for damage caused by crazy stuff. Stuff that would never be considered correct. The biggest issue is people don’t know how to negotiate and coordinate with insurance companies. I think the whole “it better be right or it will be denied” is mostly internet rumor. Elements of truth but not common. Originally Posted By ColtRifle: I’ve seen insurance claims paid even for damage caused by crazy stuff. Stuff that would never be considered correct. The biggest issue is people don’t know how to negotiate and coordinate with insurance companies. I think the whole “it better be right or it will be denied” is mostly internet rumor. Elements of truth but not common. I only know two people who have had their house burn down. Both didn't get paid out due to electrical work not permitted nor inspected. One was an electrical fire that started in the attic. Another was a lithium battery that caught fire in the trash can against the house. They can usually afford better lawyers than the people who literally just lost everything. Maybe I know the only two sorry unlucky bastards. Maybe its more common than you think. Either way, Im an unlucky man myself so you do you, but my shit gets inspected. |
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Originally Posted By azmp5: My 240 outlet is a 4 prong, so I beleive it does (sorry, idk electrical all that well). But it should be 2 positives, ground and neutral...right? Could I put a 110/30a outlet next to the 240 outlet (basically piggy back off the 240 line) and just plug in the 110 when I need to use it? It would be physically impossible for me to operate the 2 post lift AND the 4 post at the same time. I would just have to probably run a 10 gauge extension cord. You can verify there is a neutral. Find where the circuit is in the panel, make sure all 4 wires are landed properly. Not a good idea to leave it on the 50a breaker though. You’re trying to keep it simple, but just run a dedicated 120/30a to the new lift. |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
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Originally Posted By DVCER: You can verify there is a neutral. Find where the circuit is in the panel, make sure all 4 wires are landed properly. Not a good idea to leave it on the 50a breaker though. You’re trying to keep it simple, but just run a dedicated 120/30a to the new lift. Originally Posted By DVCER: Originally Posted By azmp5: My 240 outlet is a 4 prong, so I beleive it does (sorry, idk electrical all that well). But it should be 2 positives, ground and neutral...right? Could I put a 110/30a outlet next to the 240 outlet (basically piggy back off the 240 line) and just plug in the 110 when I need to use it? It would be physically impossible for me to operate the 2 post lift AND the 4 post at the same time. I would just have to probably run a 10 gauge extension cord. You can verify there is a neutral. Find where the circuit is in the panel, make sure all 4 wires are landed properly. Not a good idea to leave it on the 50a breaker though. You’re trying to keep it simple, but just run a dedicated 120/30a to the new lift. I agree it wouldn't hurt to switch it to a 30. The breaker is there to protect the wires. If you're using a 30 amp cord on a 50 amp breaker, it isn't really protected. If you drop something on it and short it out, or the pump motor locks up, it will kick the breaker, no problem. But if for some reason the lift draws 40 amps, you're going to burn up your cord. That's the issue. |
9 lives - 9 pellets... Coincidence?
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I only know two people who have had their house burn down. Both didn't get paid out due to electrical work not permitted nor inspected. One was an electrical fire that started in the attic. Another was a lithium battery that caught fire in the trash can against the house. They can usually afford better lawyers than the people who literally just lost everything. Maybe I know the only two sorry unlucky bastards. Maybe its more common than you think. Either way, Im an unlucky man myself so you do you, but my shit gets inspected. So you’re stating the insurance company required a permit to throw away a battery in a trash can? Come on. I’d love to see them try and deny my claim for no permits or inspections. The don’t exist here. I have no building department. No building inspectors. No building permits. No planning and zoning commission. I don’t even have building set backs. My work is done exceeding nec. But there is no possible way for me to get a permit or inspections And if the house catches fire there won’t ever anything left for them to inspect. The closest fire hydrant is in the parking lot of the volunteer fire department I pay 45 bucks a year for. With all that said, if you have a neutral at your 50 amp plug you can operate a 120v circuit using the rv adapter. But it’s a bad idea. The circuit breaker will not protect your lift. Now if you go buys. Small sub panel and spend $100 dollars you can replace the 50 amp outlet with the sub panel. This will allow you to put what ever you want coming out. Just remember you’re still limited to 50 amps total out of the sub panel. |
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Just to add more info incase it helps. I have a main breaker box and a subpanel specifically for the rv garage. Both are set up on the outside of the house/on the RV wall. The 240 outlet that is on the inside of the rv garage is almost on the exact opposite side of the sub panel (maybe 3-4 feet east). I did is tall and mini split in the garage and had an electrician run a line to it on the outside. I wonder if he could just T off of that line and run another electrical line up the outside of the wall (will be in the backyard technically) and just run into the interior of the rv garage. |
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Originally Posted By Quicky06: So you’re stating the insurance company required a permit to throw away a battery in a trash can? Come on. I’d love to see them try and deny my claim for no permits or inspections. The don’t exist here. I have no building department. No building inspectors. No building permits. No planning and zoning commission. I don’t even have building set backs. My work is done exceeding nec. But there is no possible way for me to get a permit or inspections And if the house catches fire there won’t ever anything left for them to inspect. The closest fire hydrant is in the parking lot of the volunteer fire department I pay 45 bucks a year for. With all that said, if you have a neutral at your 50 amp plug you can operate a 120v circuit using the rv adapter. But it’s a bad idea. The circuit breaker will not protect your lift. Now if you go buys. Small sub panel and spend $100 dollars you can replace the 50 amp outlet with the sub panel. This will allow you to put what ever you want coming out. Just remember you’re still limited to 50 amps total out of the sub panel. No Im saying when an insurance company is getting ready to shell out over a half million dollars they will do anything their policy allows to not pay. That's just business. If I recall correctly they argued that non-compliant electrical work interfered with the smoke alarms, which led to a delayed FD response resulting in a total loss which otherwise wouldn't have happened. And as I said had you actually read what I posted if you are in compliance with the NEC you are fine if you don't have inspections or permits. About 1% of the population falls under this so its not common. |
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Originally Posted By azmp5: Just to add more info incase it helps. I have a main breaker box and a subpanel specifically for the rv garage. Both are set up on the outside of the house/on the RV wall. The 240 outlet that is on the inside of the rv garage is almost on the exact opposite side of the sub panel (maybe 3-4 feet east). I did is tall and mini split in the garage and had an electrician run a line to it on the outside. I wonder if he could just T off of that line and run another electrical line up the outside of the wall (will be in the backyard technically) and just run into the interior of the rv garage. The mini split needs to be a dedicated circuit. No T off of that. You could run another circuit from the sub-panel, though. |
9 lives - 9 pellets... Coincidence?
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Originally Posted By ske714: The mini split needs to be a dedicated circuit. No T off of that. You could run another circuit from the sub-panel, though. My bad, I should have been more specific. I just ment use the same metal line to put the wiring through. Not actually t off / splice into. |
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Originally Posted By azmp5: My bad, I should have been more specific. I just ment use the same metal line to put the wiring through. Not actually t off / splice into. In that case you'll need to do a fill calculation of the conduit to make sure it isn't overly stuffed. Do you know what size, quantity, and types of wires are in the conduit, and the type and size of conduit you have? |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: In that case you'll need to do a fill calculation of the conduit to make sure it isn't overly stuffed. Do you know what size, quantity, and types id wires are in the conduit, and the type and size of conduit you have? Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By azmp5: My bad, I should have been more specific. I just ment use the same metal line to put the wiring through. Not actually t off / splice into. In that case you'll need to do a fill calculation of the conduit to make sure it isn't overly stuffed. Do you know what size, quantity, and types id wires are in the conduit, and the type and size of conduit you have? This. It can be done. It's really a matter of whether or not it's worth the trouble. Conduit is cheap and easy. You'll probably have to pull the existing wires out to get the new wires in, and you have to add a box at the T. If the existing pipe covers most of the distance, go for it. If you pull the existing wire out, tape a string or wire to the end of it first, and pull that into the conduit, so you'll have something to pull it all back in with. Start here... https://nassaunationalcable.com/blogs/blog/nec-conduit-fill-chart |
9 lives - 9 pellets... Coincidence?
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I only know two people who have had their house burn down. Both didn't get paid out due to electrical work not permitted nor inspected. One was an electrical fire that started in the attic. Another was a lithium battery that caught fire in the trash can against the house. They can usually afford better lawyers than the people who literally just lost everything. Maybe I know the only two sorry unlucky bastards. Maybe its more common than you think. Either way, Im an unlucky man myself so you do you, but my shit gets inspected. I know a guy who had his claim turn down because of an unpermitted retaining wall that fell over on his house and car. Totaled the car and 10s of thousands of dollars in damage to his house when it got knock off the foundation. The house movers who were in the process of moving in a house just down the road cut him a break to jack his house up and move it back over since they had their equipment just down the road. |
| OP why try to hack it? Just pull a new dedicated circuit of the correct wire size and amperage and be done with it. Electrical wiring is like torsion springs on a garage door if done right you won't have any problem but if you try to rig/hack you are going to get hurt or killed. It really doesn't cost any more to do it the right way and be safe. |
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While we’re giving all this advice, I’ll chime in with this: use a 50a 4wire cord cap on 4c #6 hard use cord to feed a small subpanel. Single pole 30a breaker powers an attached 30a 120v outlet to feed the lift. He can even add 20a breakers to feed 20a 120v outlets for heavier loads that his shared outlets won’t support. If he builds it himself, it’d be “cheap”. Bonus points if he has an electrician buddy to assemble correctly so OP doesn’t kill himself.
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Being willing to die to complete the mission didn't mean He's a pacifist, just tougher than nails. see also J3:16
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Originally Posted By Morgan321: OP: Adding a new circuit is trivially easy and leaves you with no doubt about what is going on. It's easier than some of the horrible recommendations you're getting. Yeah, im thinking in the long run just putting a new line in may be easier. The issue with "dropping down a line" is the wall of the RV garage is 15-16 feet tall sonit would have to go up about 10 feet then over and then back down. That's also why im debating running a line outside (like I did for the mini split) for a dedicated outlet inside. |
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Originally Posted By azmp5: Yeah, im thinking in the long run just putting a new line in may be easier. The issue with "dropping down a line" is the wall of the RV garage is 15-16 feet tall sonit would have to go up about 10 feet then over and then back down. That's also why im debating running a line outside (like I did for the mini split) for a dedicated outlet inside. You might consider adding a small subpanel - the added cost is small and it will make any future electrical changes/additions much easier. |
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Originally Posted By azmp5: Just to add more info incase it helps. I have a main breaker box and a subpanel specifically for the rv garage. Both are set up on the outside of the house/on the RV wall. The 240 outlet that is on the inside of the rv garage is almost on the exact opposite side of the sub panel (maybe 3-4 feet east). I did is tall and mini split in the garage and had an electrician run a line to it on the outside. I wonder if he could just T off of that line and run another electrical line up the outside of the wall (will be in the backyard technically) and just run into the interior of the rv garage. put a six or 12slot sub panel in place of that 240 outlet. put a double pole breaker for a new 240 and a single pole 120. safe and perfectly code compliant. unless that a 2wire 240 with no neutral. |
Sorry for the delay in replies. Had a busy week. But good news is the lift has been delivered.  So to clear some things up. The house i got new has its normal breaker box/panel and there is already a subpanel connected to it (came like this). The breakers in the subpanel is mostly the exterior 110v outlets, the few 110s inside the garage and the 240v for the drier. The 240v for the 2 post lift is also connected to the sub panel. There is still 6 or 7 spots availablein the sub panel and about 10 in the main panel. The 240v outlet that runs the 2 post lift is a nema 6-50R 3 prong. I thought it was a Nema 14-50 4 prong. Since it doesnt have the 4th prong (neutral) there is no way to safely use that outlet. The few things I've seen online, and even the place that installed the lift, Atlas Pro8000 ext, said since it take about 45 seconds to raise or lower the lift with a vehicle on it, it's fine to use a normal 110/15a outlet. It even has a regular 3 prong power cord. Well I was hoping to link a Pic of the motor to make it easier but HERE is the li k to the manufacturer site that has specs on the motor. |
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Originally Posted By Morgan321: If the breaker panel isn't in the garage then running the wire will be the hardest part. You might consider adding a small subpanel - the added cost is small and it will make any future electrical changes/additions much easier. The regular panel and sub panel are both placed on the exterior wall of the garage. The "plus" is both panels are on the same wall as the 240v outlet (that's obviously inside the garage) and where I'd prefer the dedicated 110v30a outlet, which im guessing is my best and safest route now. |
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Originally Posted By JosephTurrisi: OP why try to hack it? Just pull a new dedicated circuit of the correct wire size and amperage and be done with it. Electrical wiring is like torsion springs on a garage door if done right you won't have any problem but if you try to rig/hack you are going to get hurt or killed. It really doesn't cost any more to do it the right way and be safe. I was leaning this way but now that I know i dont have the 4 prong 14-50P outlet, im just going to go with the dedicated outlet. |
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Had an electrician stop by today to give me a quote. I've used him a few times and he does good work and very reasonable. *he's his own business, has all the license, bonded, insured, ect* He gave me 2 options. 1. He will run a dedicated line from the sub panel along the outside (like we did with the mini split) but about 10-12 ft longer and just make a dedicated 110 30amp outlet right next to the 4 post lift And I just use it like any normal 110 outlet, its just a 30 amp vs 15. That was going to be $500-600. (Not bad imo) 2. He saw it had the 3 prong 240v outlet. He asked what that outlet was for and I told him the 2 post lift. He checked both the 2 and 4 post motor specs and then checked the 240v breaker and saw it was a 50 amp. He took the cover off the outlet and checked the wiring and saw both the 240v outlet and the 240v wiring/pigtail for the 2 post have 4 wires. *I guess the lift company didn't use the 1 extra wire and made it a 3 prong outlet and tied 2 of the wires together at the 2 post motor???* I showed him those RV 240v to 110v 20amp adaptors (but how they were are all 4 prong and cant use the 3 prong). He said the same as you all, the 3 prong you can't use BUT if it was converted to a 4 prong then I could use it. So a 2nd option is he could just swap the 240v outlet to a 4 wire/prong (since it has 4 wires already), rewire my 2 post pigtail (just add a 4 prong head vs the 3 it has now) and rewire the motor for 4 wire (that is already there) and clean it all up (since the 2 post motor wiring is just hanging out of the box). He also checked my 10/3 50' extension cord and said it was fine and would work. The price is $150-200. He said both would take him right about an hour and would send me a quote for both options later today and to just let him know which 1 I'd like to do. That all being said, up to him stopping by, i was figuring the dedicated outlet would just be easiest. My only downside to this outlet is it's location. It's no where near where I'd ever need an outlet *in the far corner of the rv garage behind where a door would open, but since the lift would be rarely used i didnt care. Once he showed/explained to me the 3 wire vs 4 wire and how all that works (I felt alittle smart since yall said the same thing originally) and how "often" i would use the lift, I *personally* would rather just have him rewire the outlet and go that route. Price doesnt matter to me (im not about being cheap when it comes to not burning the house down) but i also figure (worse possible event) if anything overheats, it would be either the 10/3 extension cord or the 110v motor goes out, but its not hidden behind a wall. im going to leave it up to what you all think since you all know better than me. Edit: to add, this would be the rv adapter I'd get. HERE Or, I wonder if I could just have him make me something like that but with a 30amp box at the end?? The link above is actually a 24amp breaker. The lonk above says 20amp, and the 4 post motor calls for a 30amp but after talking with the manufacturer a week or so ago l, they said its recommended a 30 but a 20 is fine since the motor is for a lift and wont be constantly running. The motor pulls 21 amps if its constantly running and thats why they recomment a 30. |
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Originally Posted By Morgan321: Your posts give me a headache. Did you check the motor on the new lift to see if it dual voltage? If so you could just move a couple wires on the motor and use your existing 240v outlet. Nope, can't convert it. That was the 1st thing I looked at before I started all this mess. |
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Well, now I feel like an A-hole asking for all this help and getting some great responses. Before the below answer, I decided it would just be smart/safe and add the outlet vs the daisy chain of plugs. But i was talking with a neighbor last night who has the same 4 post lift and asked what he ended up doing. Come to find out, our houses have a pair of GFCI 20 amp high magnetic outlets outside. 1 right under the electrical panel and 1 near the front door. i guess they were used for the people buildingtl the house to use their tools. He also has a 10 gauge 50' extension cord and just plugs that in when he needs to use it for his lift and never had any issues. Soo... this morning I tried it and worked with no issues. The ectrician is still stopping by fri morning to do a few little things? But I may have him use whatever the meter is called, but check amperage and go from there if a dedicated outlet is needed. thank you all for your help and suggestions. |