any folks familiar or worked on a 289? (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 8/30/2026 9:29:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Striker][Edited]
|
A previous owner of my "hot rod" told me that it kept chewing up the flex plate. Sometimes it would last a year, some times a month. This is my first ford v8. I've read that the starters don't require a shim but they are available. I'd like to solve this while we are swapping engines. The shims are the same thickness on every site I've looked at. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Flywheel=manual trans Flex plate=Automatic Now, here’s a life experience I had with a small block Chevy. Same might apply to the Ford. 350 with a Turbo 400 trans. flex plate would last about 20 crank ups and it was toast. I’d swap in a new one, 20 startups later, I was buying a new one. After the third I asked my buddy that owned a transmission shop what the hell was going on. Told me to bring it in and he wanted to watch me swap it out. In the past I was pulling the trans to do it. Nope, big dummy, just push the torque converter back and stick a long box end wrench up in there and unbolt the flex plate bolts one at a time and turn the plate and to the rest of the bolts. Cool! Hand me your 7/8” box end. Trans guy: What? 7/8? You have 7/8” bolt heads in there? Well that’s your problem. SBC uses 3/4” bolt heads. (I was using Ford FP bolts  )As I was tightening the flex plate to the torque converter, I didn’t pay attention that I was “flexing” the flex plate. The torque converter would pull forward, hit the bigger headed bolts and not sit into the back of the crankshaft. It was literally pulling the flex plate away from the starter bendix gear. Shims are required on a Chevy when the starter sits too close since it bolts up from underneath. A Ford bolts in from the front. Look at the ring gear around the flex plate. If it’s just the front edge of the teeth getting chewed up something is stopping the torque converter from coming forward when it’s tightened into place on the flex plate. Two things I can think of. 1). Flex plate bolts are incorrect. 2) Engine might have been bolted up to a manual trans at one time. Inspect the back of the crankshaft to see if a pilot bushing was left in place that’s blocking the torque converter snout from sitting in the back of the crankshaft properly. Hell, it might be the wrong torque converter for that engine, so I would pull the trans and inspect then measure the back of the cranks diameter and depth and compare to the TC’s snout. Shit…this just fell out of my gray matter from 43 years ago…. And what might be your actual problem that just came to me as I was wrapping this up. I experienced the same thing with my 289 in my 1965 Fairlane after a motor swap. Grab your harmonic balancer up front. Pull forward and then push back on it. If it moves, and I’m talking about a lot, like almost what will feel like a 1/4”, someone installed the engines crankshaft thrust bearing on the wrong journal. No shit, cannot remember which it journal it goes on right now, hold on…off to Google….Okay, SBF has the thrust bearing on journal #3. SBC has it on #5, the rear journal. The guy that built my engine was a Chevy guy and this was his first ford build. He installed the thrust bearing on the rear, #5 journal. https://www.diyford.com/small-block-ford-rebuild-guide-assemble-short-block/ If this is your problem, it’s an easy fix. Pull the oil pan, drop #3 and #5 main journals and swap the bearings. To get the top half of the bearing out you can most likely spin it out by tapping on it with a popsicle stick. I cannot remember if I had to loosen all 5 journals so the crank would release pressure off the bearing. But as a 16 yo kid, I did it in a couple hours. Would probably take my old ass two days now. |
|
my bad..it's a flex plate not a flywheel. Thanks for the info Scott. Unless we can free up the engine it will be going on the engine stand for now and the spare stock 289 will be going in at least to get it mobile.. The previous owner to the guy I bought it from is a car nut but he said he's no mechanic so who knows what he did or didn't do. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
Joined:
Jan 2023
Posts:
3925
EE: 0% (0)
OK, USA
|
Is it installed correctly? Kind of hard not to on a sbf due to bolt pattern, but I have seen a rig job on one flexplate installed backwards. Also iirc a older sbf uses a 28oz harmonic balancer, so makes sence to have correct flex/flywheel. sbf in iirc early 80s went to a 50oz harmonic balancer. Either way, check what you got. |
|
Originally Posted By Striker: my bad..it's a flex plate not a flywheel. Thanks for the info Scott. Unless we can free up the engine it will be going on the engine stand for now and the spare stock 289 will be going in at least to get it mobile.. The previous owner to the guy I bought it from is a car nut but he said he's no mechanic so who knows what he did or didn't do. If nothing else, try moving the balancer like I suggested. It might keep you from spending time trying to troubleshoot the flex plate and starter issues. |
|
I didn’t mention this earlier, but when my new engine in the Fairlane was doing this, I figured it out pretty quick. But me being me, I kept procrastinating doing the repair. It was just too easy to pop the hood, yank on the lower pulley and start the car. Final straw was one night hanging out in a parking lot with a group of friends back in the “cruising” days. One guy in our crowd apparently pissed of a girls momma. Next thing you know, Pop! Pop! Pop! Crazy mom was shooting towards us. I jumped my fat ass in the Fairlane, turned the key just to hear the starter grinding on the ring gear. FUUUUUCCCKKKKKK! Cray-cray bitch is popping off rounds in our direction and I’ve gotta get back out to pull on my pulley. Next morning my ass was laying under my car pulling the oil pan. 
|
|
Originally Posted By crazymike1973: Check the endplay on the crankshaft. If the thrust bearing is toast the starter will shove the crankshaft forward and strip the teeth off the ring gear. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
thanks for all the info guys. We discovered this after we got it up on jack stands.. That wouldn't have anything to do with the engine locking up would it? It still doesn't explain the water in the cylinders though  |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
Joined:
Jan 2023
Posts:
3974
EE: 0% (0)
OK, USA
|
Either ran over a big rock or curb, Or went too fast over thrill hill and caught a bit of air then bottomed out on the bumpity bump. Nothing like seizing up on the mains due to lack of oil. Could be a few things for water in the cylinders. Warped head, cracked water jacket on head or intake, blown head and/or intake gaskets, or maybe just took plugs out & pissed in them. |
|
Originally Posted By Ndenway1twicetimes: Either ran over a big rock or curb, Or went too fast over thrill hill and caught a bit of air then bottomed out on the bumpity bump. Nothing like seizing up on the mains due to lack of oil. Could be a few things for water in the cylinders. Warped head, cracked water jacket on head or intake, blown head and/or intake gaskets, or maybe just took plugs out & pissed in them.
|
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Make sure the flexplate matches the transmission. They need the correct balance for the motor, and they need the correct depth for the transmission. The thing that sets the location of the starter in relation to the flexplate is the block plate and the dowels. Its possible the block plate is trash/wallered out/out of spec. Or the dowel pins may be missing or have groves worn into them. Block plates and dowells are cheap. If you really want to, you can setup a dial indicator to measure and buy offset dowel pins to perfectly center the plate and transmission with the crank shaft. All the parts are available at summit. |
Joined:
Jan 2023
Posts:
3981
EE: 0% (0)
OK, USA
|
Originally Posted By Striker: he better see a urologist then. It was awful green. Originally Posted By Striker: Originally Posted By Ndenway1twicetimes: Either ran over a big rock or curb, Or went too fast over thrill hill and caught a bit of air then bottomed out on the bumpity bump. Nothing like seizing up on the mains due to lack of oil. Could be a few things for water in the cylinders. Warped head, cracked water jacket on head or intake, blown head and/or intake gaskets, or maybe just took plugs out & pissed in them. Windego/bigfoot shade tree mechanic? Few of the 289s & 302s I've had & wrenched on had leaky intake gaskets when they got up in miles, Funny to me never had that issue with 351w. Early 90s tow yard auction I bought a decent shape old fairlane wagon with a 289. it wouldn't crank, Pulled plugs & it cranked squirting antifreeze out of one plug hole, pulled head thinking blown gasket, it had a cracked waterjacket inside cylinder. Slightly bent rod too, would have clattered & let go if engine started. Ended up putting a 302 in it. |
|
Originally Posted By giantpune: Make sure the flexplate matches the transmission. They need the correct balance for the motor, and they need the correct depth for the transmission. The thing that sets the location of the starter in relation to the flexplate is the block plate and the dowels. Its possible the block plate is trash/wallered out/out of spec. Or the dowel pins may be missing or have groves worn into them. Block plates and dowells are cheap. If you really want to, you can setup a dial indicator to measure and buy offset dowel pins to perfectly center the plate and transmission with the crank shaft. All the parts are available at summit. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By Striker: This wouldn't be the problem....would it?  https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/135/20260905_152621_1_-3822658.jpg Dam - is that the block plate that appears someone hacked-up? What the fuck for??? Yeesh… |
|
Originally Posted By funnelcake: Dam - is that the block plate that appears someone hacked-up? What the fuck for??? Yeesh How does one determine whether or not he has a 157 or 164 tooth flex plate..I'm wondering if the one on the engine is the right one. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
There’s a teeth per inch count. I can’t remember what is off the top. Off to Google. ETA: This is probably the quickest way. MustangTek |
| found some info online. An auto takes the 164 count flex plate. The owner previous to the guy I bought it from thought it took the 157 tooth and he bought one off RA which for some reason doesn't list the tooth count on their page. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By funnelcake: There's a teeth per inch count. I can't remember what is off the top. Off to Google. ETA: This is probably the quickest way. MustangTek Tks for the link. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
I'm starting to remember why I never owned a ford... It could take the 157 tooth flex plate or the 164 tooth one. Internally balanced, externally balanced.. auto or standard.. thickness of the block plate.. 
|
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
That block plate has left the chat. And yep, for the most part, automatics like a C4, FMX, C6, AOD(E), 4R70W use a 164 tooth. And the manual transmissions like a T5 and TKX are the smaller 157. Thats the big reason why some headers will say only for manual transmissions. Cause they wont clear the bigger bell housing for the 164 tooth setups. As far as starters go, the common swap is just an OEM style high-torque-mini-starter out of a later 5.0 explorer. Those had a 164 tooth flexplate and a 4R70W automatic. The starter should work with just about every flavor of automatic transmission and exhaust you can bolt to a small block ford. It is lighter, stronger, and cheaper than the old boat anchors from the 60s and 70s. It being smaller will also keep it further from headers, which will keep it from heat soaking as easily. It has its own solenoid on it, which means you will need to move your existing starter wire to the other side, then run a new 12ga trigger wire down to the new starter. To determine if you have 164 or 157 teeth, you literally count them. Color one of them and start counting. When you get to the colored one, stop counting. Factory small block fords should be externally balanced. Only custom shop or crate engines are internally balanced and would come with paperwork telling you so. All 289s from factory cars would be the old 28oz. Same story with the 351 engines. The 302 is the one that started out 28oz, then switched to 50oz in the 1980s. |
Can’t wait until OP starts looking in to the many timing chain covers and water pump selections.  Edit…..Let’s get the ball rolling! Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Can’t wait until OP starts looking in to the many timing chain covers and water pump selections. Edit…..Let’s get the ball rolling! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32016/IMG_5614_jpeg-3824192.JPG The aftermarket has caught up with that. Ford racing and blueprint timing covers are more universal to cover a wide range of those use cases. |
|
Originally Posted By giantpune: That block plate has left the chat. And yep, for the most part, automatics like a C4, FMX, C6, AOD(E), 4R70W use a 164 tooth. And the manual transmissions like a T5 and TKX are the smaller 157. Thats the big reason why some headers will say only for manual transmissions. Cause they wont clear the bigger bell housing for the 164 tooth setups. As far as starters go, the common swap is just an OEM style high-torque-mini-starter out of a later 5.0 explorer. Those had a 164 tooth flexplate and a 4R70W automatic. The starter should work with just about every flavor of automatic transmission and exhaust you can bolt to a small block ford. It is lighter, stronger, and cheaper than the old boat anchors from the 60s and 70s. It being smaller will also keep it further from headers, which will keep it from heat soaking as easily. It has its own solenoid on it, which means you will need to move your existing starter wire to the other side, then run a new 12ga trigger wire down to the new starter. To determine if you have 164 or 157 teeth, you literally count them. Color one of them and start counting. When you get to the colored one, stop counting. Factory small block fords should be externally balanced. Only custom shop or crate engines are internally balanced and would come with paperwork telling you so. All 289s from factory cars would be the old 28oz. Same story with the 351 engines. The 302 is the one that started out 28oz, then switched to 50oz in the 1980s. So if I need a 164 tooth flex plate between him having the wrong plate and the chunk missing from the block plate might explain his problem with the flex plate getting chewed up. I worked in a parts dept way back when and ford was notorious for changing part design mid model release and changing part numbers like crazy. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Can't wait until OP starts looking in to the many timing chain covers and water pump selections. Edit ..Let's get the ball rolling! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32016/IMG_5614_jpeg-3824192.JPG
|
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By Striker: thank you for the info. So if I need a 164 tooth flex plate between him having the wrong plate and the chunk missing from the block plate might explain his problem with the flex plate getting chewed up. I worked in a parts dept way back when and ford was notorious for changing part design mid model release and changing part numbers like crazy. The bold part alone could explain it. On a chevy 350, the starter bolts have a knurl to them. The knurl keeps the starter and the engine block aligned. On a ford 289, there is no such knurl. The starter bolts to the bell housing. For 1, whatever clearance there is in the starter holes will allow the starter to move up/down and side to side. It is the block plate that keeps that from happening. The plate has the hole that the starter indexes in. And second, the missing 1/8 inch thickness or whatever it is will cause the starter to sit closer to the bell housing. That also puts the starter gear closer to the flexplate gear front and back. That missing chunk of the block plate acts as a locator and a spacer. They may have had the incorrect starter in the first place, and cut the block plate to compensate for it. On older fords, different starters had the gear sticking out different distances. Could be he was a cheap bastard and rather than buying the correct starter, he used what he had on hand and cut the chunk out of the block plate. Worth noting that the inspection plates are paired with the block plate. So if you get a block plate for a C4, and you have the inspection plate for the C6, they may not fit together. There are also oddballs like if the car is column shift or floor shift. The car doesn't actually need the inspection plate to function. But its always nice to have the correct cover. If you're pulling parts off a parts car at the pull-a-part yard, get the inspection plate that matches the block plate. |
|
Originally Posted By ScottsGT: My money is on someone had a manual block plate for the automatic and just cut it off around the starter so it would “fit”, but in reality it didn’t. Cause they didn't realize it till everything was in the car and they didn't want to have to pull the transmission back out and remove the flexplate. Its a tale as old as time. But no, his photo shows a slot for the inspection plate/torque converter bolts at the bottom. That looks like whats left of an automatic block plate. |
|
And more reasons I hate Fords. lol I ordered the solid block plate because the one that has the removable inspection plate is listen for a flex plate with 157 teeth.. Let me guess..the teeth count has nothing to do with the block plate.. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By Striker: And more reasons I hate Fords. lol I ordered the solid block plate because the one that has the removable inspection plate is listen for a flex plate with 157 teeth.. Let me guess..the teeth count has nothing to do with the block plate.. First, you're gonna have a hell of a time bolting the torque converter to the flexplate with a solid block plate. That inspection plate is the big access hole for you to connect those 2 components together. Second, the block plate needs to match the tooth count of the flexplate as well as the transmission bell housing. 157 and 164 tooth bell housing will obviously have the dowels and the bolt holes to connect the transmission to the engine in the same place. They will not have the starter locating or mounting holes in the same place. I didn't catch which transmission you're planning on connecting this motor to. But the bellhousing on that transmission is gonna be one of the big deciding factors for some of the other parts. Here's one of mine. This is setup for a manual transmission, but it shows the holes that are of concern. The starter locating and mounting holes are over on the passenger side with the pink arrows. On the 164 tooth bell housing and block plate, those stick out further to the passenger side of the motor. 
|
|
I haven't crawled under it but a previous owner told me it was a c4. I ordered them from summit. I'll call tomorrow and see if I can cancel the solid one. The one with the inspection plate is listed for a flex plate with the 157 tooth count.
|
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By Striker: I haven't crawled under it but a previous owner told me it was a c4. I ordered them from summit. I'll call tomorrow and see if I can cancel the solid one. The one with the inspection plate is listed for a flex plate with the 157 tooth count. NPD sells them for $30. https://www.npdlink.com/product/bellhousing-spacer-plate-aka-starter-index-plate/217402 This one has the cover with it. https://www.npdlink.com/product/bellhousing-spacer-plate/105619 They list them with a couple different size starter hole diameters. The one I linked says it goes from 1965-1988. You should be able to find a starter that fits that hole. It may not be the one thats listed for your car. |
|
Originally Posted By giantpune: NPD sells them for $30. https://www.npdlink.com/product/bellhousing-spacer-plate-aka-starter-index-plate/217402 This one has the cover with it. https://www.npdlink.com/product/bellhousing-spacer-plate/105619 They list them with a couple different size starter hole diameters. The one I linked says it goes from 1965-1988. You should be able to find a starter that fits that hole. It may not be the one thats listed for your car. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By Striker: that will work with the 164 tooth flex plate? Originally Posted By Striker: that will work with the 164 tooth flex plate? According to their compatibility, those are for a bunch of different small block ford with automatic transmission combinations. However, if I were you, I would wait to get everything disassembled to know exactly what you have before you start ordering parts. The C4 automatic was available with a 157 and a 164 tooth flexplate. The other automatics were pretty much all 164 teeth. Or realistically, with that big gaping hole in the plate, you could just start counting the teeth with the car still assembled. Color the first one, then label every 10th tooth. Rotate the motor over with the balancer bolt and count 50 more teeth. https://www.cjponyparts.com/automatic-transmission-flexplate-157t-tooth-mustang-c4-289-302-1965-1973/p/ATF2/ *C4 transmissions came with 2 different sized bellhousings. The larger bellhousing requires the 164-tooth flexplate, and the smaller bellhousing requires the 157-tooth bellhousing. |
|
Originally Posted By giantpune: According to their compatibility, those are for a bunch of different small block ford with automatic transmission combinations. However, if I were you, I would wait to get everything disassembled to know exactly what you have before you start ordering parts. The C4 automatic was available with a 157 and a 164 tooth flexplate. The other automatics were pretty much all 164 teeth. Or realistically, with that big gaping hole in the plate, you could just start counting the teeth with the car still assembled. Color the first one, then label every 10th tooth. Rotate the motor over with the balancer bolt and count 50 more teeth. https://www.cjponyparts.com/automatic-transmission-flexplate-157t-tooth-mustang-c4-289-302-1965-1973/p/ATF2/ I ordered a 164 tooth flex plate and the block plate listed for a 164 tooth flex plate but it doesn't have the inspection cover. If it's the correct plate it looks like torque converter bolts will be removed thru the starter hole. I've taken torque converter bolts out a 5.3 ls. Taking these ones out should be a breeze. lol |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Oh shit! Reading that NPD link made me think of one more point that OP will hate ford more harder. Is your bellhousing a 5 bolt or a 6 bolt? Very early 260/289 had a 5 bolt. Count your bell bolts OP! If he's swapping engines, I think it might be up to whatever bolt pattern is on the back of his new block. And if he happens to have a 5 bolt C4, sell that off to some guy doing a concourse rebuild or something. C4 and C6 transmissions with the common bolt pattern are a dime a dozen. I've had some low miles ones here (like 10k miles) I couldn't sell for $200. I pulled them out to swap for an overdrive. Nobody else wants to bother swapping them in, either. Not when you can get a junk yard 4R70W for $200 and run it without having to rebuild it. |
|
Happy to see that there are still some real gear heads out there. I did very limited wrenching on my 82 Mustang GT using muh Chilton. Brakes, water pumps, alternators, timing chain(I was proud of that one), I knew my limitations, and paid the real mechanics when necessary. Bolt on stuff was within my ability. Those cars ate ignition modules. I kept a spare in the car. Ford replaced those over the counter for 1 year from purchase date. If the bottom of the module was orange(burnt), they swapped it out. One thing. Firing order is very important.   |
z - Deplorable Neanderthal Garbage per liberal media.
|
Originally Posted By giantpune: If he's swapping engines, I think it might be up to whatever bolt pattern is on the back of his new block. And if he happens to have a 5 bolt C4, sell that off to some guy doing a concourse rebuild or something. C4 and C6 transmissions with the common bolt pattern are a dime a dozen. I've had some low miles ones here (like 10k miles) I couldn't sell for $200. I pulled them out to swap for an overdrive. Nobody else wants to bother swapping them in, either. Not when you can get a junk yard 4R70W for $200 and run it without having to rebuild it. I haven't pulled the engine yet due to my engine stand being tied up with a 5.3ls engine. That should be gone sometime this week. If it ever starts raining. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By zach_: Happy to see that there are still some real gear heads out there. I did very limited wrenching on my 82 Mustang GT using muh Chilton. Brakes, water pumps, alternators, timing chain(I was proud of that one), I knew my limitations, and paid the real mechanics when necessary. Bolt on stuff was within my ability. Those cars ate ignition modules. I kept a spare in the car. Ford replaced those over the counter for 1 year from purchase date. If the bottom of the module was orange(burnt), they swapped it out. One thing. Firing order is very important. |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By Striker: so I can bolt up one and it will give me O/D? I haven't pulled the engine yet due to my engine stand being tied up with a 5.3ls engine. That should be gone sometime this week. If it ever starts raining. Yes, as long as your block is a 6 bolt. AOD swaps are very common. You’re going to need a specialized flex plate balanced for the 28 oz. Imbalance that matches up to the AOD torque converter. If memory serves me correctly, it’s a 351W flex plate. But NPD sells everything for swaps under their Mustang catalog. |
|
Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Yes, as long as your block is a 6 bolt. AOD swaps are very common. You're going to need a specialized flex plate balanced for the 28 oz. Imbalance that matches up to the AOD torque converter. If memory serves me correctly, it's a 351W flex plate. But NPD sells everything for swaps under their Mustang catalog. They left the back glass intact and covered it with something and put the small one in. It shows from the outside. My body and paint guy isn't impressed and neither am I so we are going to remover whatever that is and go back to original. I'll tint it so I don't get a neck redder than it is now. lol This rig is a mystery. Someone put a lot of money in to it then did some hillbilly mods. For instance if you look at the bottom of the door you will see a red wire. that opens the door. The panel above it is the "window". it's a piece of lexan you flip up and it's held in place with velcro... I'm hoping the window regulator is still in the door.  |
To say that you are on thin ice would be a vastly optimistic view of your current situation. The ice has melted. You are being supported by the surface tension of water.
|
Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Yes, as long as your block is a 6 bolt. AOD swaps are very common. You’re going to need a specialized flex plate balanced for the 28 oz. Imbalance that matches up to the AOD torque converter. If memory serves me correctly, it’s a 351W flex plate. But NPD sells everything for swaps under their Mustang catalog. Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Originally Posted By Striker: so I can bolt up one and it will give me O/D? I haven't pulled the engine yet due to my engine stand being tied up with a 5.3ls engine. That should be gone sometime this week. If it ever starts raining. Yes, as long as your block is a 6 bolt. AOD swaps are very common. You’re going to need a specialized flex plate balanced for the 28 oz. Imbalance that matches up to the AOD torque converter. If memory serves me correctly, it’s a 351W flex plate. But NPD sells everything for swaps under their Mustang catalog. While I run a roller motor and an AOD, it’s because the transmission was a known good one and it was free. I recommend the 4f70w. It’s similar to the AOD, but stronger and better gear ratios in 1st & 2nd. Anyway, in my 1966 Mustang, I run a 2003 or so roller 302ish motor with a Crane cam and some old 60’s junk bolted to it. The AOD, I pulled out of a 1988 T-Bird. I rebuilt a little with a line mod, hardened input shaft, oversized servos, 3,200 rpm converter and some valve body work. With the 9” rear and 3.89 gears, it moves the 2,800 pound mustang around ok.   
|
10/22/14 I stand with Canada