Posted: 1/24/2025 4:43:08 AM EDT
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Is there any real world benefit in going from a +55, to a +30 offset wheel? My use case is pretty much light off-roading, no rock crawling or anything crazy. The factory tires on my rig are 265/70/17, and the stock wheels are +55 offset. I'm not interested in a lift now, it wont fit in the garage. But I'm considering slightly bigger tires. I'm looking at a set of wheels with a +30 offset, mostly because they are setup for two valve stems, inflate/deflate. Is it worth it, to upgrade the wheels at this point? Will 25mm less offset yield any real benefit, or should I just go with some 285/70's on the stock wheels? |
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Originally Posted By Dr_Nimslow: Is there any real world benefit in going from a +55, to a +30 offset wheel? My use case is pretty much light off-roading, no rock crawling or anything crazy. The factory tires on my rig are 265/70/17, and the stock wheels are +55 offset. I'm not interested in a lift now, it wont fit in the garage. But I'm considering slightly bigger tires. I'm looking at a set of wheels with a +30 offset, mostly because they are setup for two valve stems, inflate/deflate. Is it worth it, to upgrade the wheels at this point? Will 25mm less offset yield any real benefit, or should I just go with some 285/70's on the stock wheels? 25mm less offset without any lift may cause your tires to rub. In addition any offset puts strain on the bearings. The gain is larger/wider tires usually or increase space from A lift |
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It takes me about 2 minutes to air my 285/70R17s down, and maybe 3 mins to air them back up with factory wheels and a viair compressor. Dual valve stems on a small tire rig seems like a solution in search of a problem, but bigger tires on factory wheels will give you a little performance bump (and may rub less than stock tires on aftermarket offset wheels). |
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Also research bump steer and scrub radius when changing wheel offset.  Shock Therapy LIVE: Wheels & Tires (4/15/20) |
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Are you going with wider wheels? You want to run a narrow wheel with a wider tire offroad. Basically, the opposite of what is best for the street, is best for offroad. You want the sidewall flex, and having the wheel on the narrow end of acceptable will help that. |
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If you are light off roading and no plans to lift - you are much better off keeping OEM geometry which will give you better ride, handling, and not stress the components. Keep in mind how much time you spend daily driving. There is no real advantage the other way as has been outlined here. Put a slightly larger tire on and call it a day. Unless you are wanting to go all in on this keeping OEM geometry is really the way. Otherwise you are picking up all the annoyances of a more purpose built rig for none of the advantages. |
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On my WK2 Overland (with air suspension) I went with a 275/55R20 on the stock wheels for the summer, and a 255/70R18 on stock wheels for the winter. 32" is the biggest I can fit without doing some trimming. Since it's still my tow rig for the camper, I'm not looking to lift it. On the 94 Bronco I had, I did go with wider wheels, but they were also 33's instead of the stock 31's, so the steering/ride was still good after the 4" lift. The only reason I had 15x10 steel wheels for a 33x12.5 mud tire was I got the wheels really cheap, so I couldn't be picky. The stock wheels were 15x7.5 forged. For the street, I had a 315/70/16 on a 10" wide cast wheel, drove great. If I had to do it again, I might have gone with a 9 or 8" wide wheel for the mud tires. The MT's on steelies:  |
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Originally Posted By prossound: Unless I missed it I don’t see what the vehicle is. Sounds like Toyota by the sizes. 285s will likely rub the upper control arms with factory wheels. Application would be helpful for this discussion Grenadier. As it sits now, 265/70/17 KO2's on the factory wheels. I've seen on the forums people claim to be running 285/70's on the factory wheels, and one that claims Mickey Thompson 255/85's without any rubbing or interference. Factory wheels are 17x7.5 I believe. 
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I saw a Grenadier at an overland get together a few months ago. I would've sworn he had 35 inch tires. Let me dig around Facebook and see if I can find a pic of it. Before getting a set of Method wheels for my Wrangler, I ran a set of wheel spacers to prevent 33" tires rubbing on the front sway bar. Edit: Seems like 35's are a common add to a Grenadier: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/35s-with-the-eibach-2-5-lift.12414842/ |
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I'm on the forum, and most of the groups. It seems 285/70's or the Mickey Tompson 255/85's will fit the stock wheels and suspension with no rubbing, or interference. I probably should have worded my original question better. I know that wheels with less offset will "widen the stance" slightly. So what I'm trying to decide is if that, plus slightly lighter aluminum wheels (with dual valve stems) is worth the cost? In addition to it not fitting in my garage with a lift, there are reports of broken drive shafts on vehicles with the 2.5" Eebach springs installed. So I'd rather wait and see how the after market solutions wash out. |
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Originally Posted By Dr_Nimslow: Is there any real world benefit in going from a +55, to a +30 offset wheel? My use case is pretty much light off-roading, no rock crawling or anything crazy. The factory tires on my rig are 265/70/17, and the stock wheels are +55 offset. I'm not interested in a lift now, it wont fit in the garage. But I'm considering slightly bigger tires. I'm looking at a set of wheels with a +30 offset, mostly because they are setup for two valve stems, inflate/deflate. Is it worth it, to upgrade the wheels at this point? Will 25mm less offset yield any real benefit, or should I just go with some 285/70's on the stock wheels? Upside is a super small increase in low-speed stability. Downsides are increased steering feedback, increased tie rod / ball joint wear, increased bearing wear, more work on the steering pump, etc.. The factory offset was chosen to make things work well and last a long time, pushing the wheel outward looks cool at the expense of... everything working well and lasting a long time. 
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Originally Posted By Dr_Nimslow: I'm on the forum, and most of the groups. It seems 285/70's or the Mickey Tompson 255/85's will fit the stock wheels and suspension with no rubbing, or interference. I probably should have worded my original question better. I know that wheels with less offset will "widen the stance" slightly. So what I'm trying to decide is if that, plus slightly lighter aluminum wheels (with dual valve stems) is worth the cost? In addition to it not fitting in my garage with a lift, there are reports of broken drive shafts on vehicles with the 2.5" Eebach springs installed. So I'd rather wait and see how the after market solutions wash out. Do you have plans to install a winch / winch bumper on your Ineos? How about rock sliders and full skids? All those heavy things will compress the stock or lifted suspension. So much so that you probably wont have any issues getting it into your garage. You could ask one of those forum members to measure the height of their lifted vehicle for you. You might wait for Icon to develop a lift for the Grenadier. They cant be that far behind Eibach. I had an Eibach Pro Truck lift on my 2019 Toyota 4Runner TRD OR (sold). IIRC I think it was 2 or 2.5" in the front and 1" in the rear. I also had a winch and winch bumper plus full steel skids, steel rock sliders, and 285/70R17 Yokohama Geolandar G003 MT's. Off roading that heavy vehicle, I blew all 4 Eibach shocks over the coarse of a couple years. Had I kept the 4Runner, I would've gone with Icon 3" springs all around to support the weight of all my vehicle armor. Reading this facebook thread, the busted drive shaft issue could be from improper installation. https://www.facebook.com/groups/646932539965726/posts/1212171893441785/ "As I understand it, using non-metric units, there are 3 lifts that can be done to the front: 1.2", 1.7", and 2.5". From what I have heard - after speaking with a lot of shops, distributors, and people who have driven these things hard off-road - the 2.5 seems to be most frequently associated with the driveshaft failure issue. I have heard two reasons for this: first, the increased angle between the driveshaft and the front pinion gears. Second, because some installers are not disconnecting the front driveshaft when dropping the axle in order to fit the 2.5" springs into place; this over-articulation of the axle causes the driveshaft to contact the flange where it meets the front differential, tearing the protective boot, eventually allowing dirt and other debris into the CV mechanism. I can't say whether the second one is true. But the first one makes sense to me." Then again it could also be driver error. I've seen 2 broken drive shafts on trail rides. 1 was lifted XJ the other was a lifted JKU, both had 37" or taller tires. Both drivers were trying bash their vehicles up a rock ledge. The dual valve stem wheels are awesome for airing down. If I had to rate air down systems as far as speed and ease of use, those wheels would be #1. #2 would be the 4 tire hose system which you ought to have for airing back up. #3 Staun Deflators. #4 Arb or Viair Deflator tools. #5 a valve core removal tool. #6 old pen style tire gauge. I use a 4 tire hose system to inflate and deflate my tires.  |
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Originally Posted By drobs: Do you have plans to install a winch / winch bumper on your Ineos? How about rock sliders and full skids? All those heavy things will compress the stock or lifted suspension. So much so that you probably wont have any issues getting it into your garage. You could ask one of those forum members to measure the height of their lifted vehicle for you. You might wait for Icon to develop a lift for the Grenadier. They cant be that far behind Eibach. I had an Eibach Pro Truck lift on my 2019 Toyota 4Runner TRD OR (sold). IIRC I think it was 2 or 2.5" in the front and 1" in the rear. I also had a winch and winch bumper plus full steel skids, steel rock sliders, and 285/70R17 Yokohama Geolandar G003 MT's. Off roading that heavy vehicle, I blew all 4 Eibach shocks over the coarse of a couple years. Had I kept the 4Runner, I would've gone with Icon 3" springs all around to support the weight of all my vehicle armor. Reading this facebook thread, the busted drive shaft issue could be from improper installation. https://www.facebook.com/groups/646932539965726/posts/1212171893441785/ "As I understand it, using non-metric units, there are 3 lifts that can be done to the front: 1.2", 1.7", and 2.5". From what I have heard - after speaking with a lot of shops, distributors, and people who have driven these things hard off-road - the 2.5 seems to be most frequently associated with the driveshaft failure issue. I have heard two reasons for this: first, the increased angle between the driveshaft and the front pinion gears. Second, because some installers are not disconnecting the front driveshaft when dropping the axle in order to fit the 2.5" springs into place; this over-articulation of the axle causes the driveshaft to contact the flange where it meets the front differential, tearing the protective boot, eventually allowing dirt and other debris into the CV mechanism. I can't say whether the second one is true. But the first one makes sense to me." Then again it could also be driver error. I've seen 2 broken drive shafts on trail rides. 1 was lifted XJ the other was a lifted JKU, both had 37" or taller tires. Both drivers were trying bash their vehicles up a rock ledge. The dual valve stem wheels are awesome for airing down. If I had to rate air down systems as far as speed and ease of use, those wheels would be #1. #2 would be the 4 tire hose system which you ought to have for airing back up. #3 Staun Deflators. #4 Arb or Viair Deflator tools. #5 a valve core removal tool. #6 old pen style tire gauge. I use a 4 tire hose system to inflate and deflate my tires. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/41568/Tire_inflation-3446754.jpg The truck came with the factory winch, and I do have a pair of sliders on order. Right now, I'm leaning towards the Mickey Thompson Baja's in 255/85/17, on the factory 17" steelies. Many people report those fit with no lift, and no rubbing or interference. These guys are running Kenda Klever 35x10.50's with no lift.  Grenadier Build: Part 5 - The Tank Trap Test Onboard air is on my short list. |
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Originally Posted By Dr_Nimslow: The truck came with the factory winch, and I do have a pair of sliders on order. Right now, I'm leaning towards the Mickey Thompson Baja's in 255/85/17, on the factory 17" steelies. Many people report those fit with no lift, and no rubbing or interference. These guys are running Kenda Klever 35x10.50's with no lift.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULmH9ggm5XoOnboard air is on my short list. Interesting video, he mentions on road steering complaints. My reaction to those complaints is... well it's got a solid front axle. SFA vehicles don't handle like IFS vehicles on pavement. I learned that driving a Toyota Landcruiser 70 series in Africa. Wranglers and Gladiators handle the same way with a SFA. A trick from the Jeep world is to lower your pavement tire pressure to 28-32psi with whatever size tires you have. That will plant you vehicle in your lane on the highway. Hindsight being 20/20 I should've gone directly to 35's on my Jeep and skipped the 285/70R17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss MT, I had. At the time I also had 285 Yokohama Geolandar G003 MT's on my 4Runner and wanted to do a direct comparison between the Jeep and the 4Runner. The Baja Boss MT's were good tires. My only complaint on them is they pick up and throw rocks like crazy in all sizes. Talking to friends with 40" Mickey BB MT's, they have the same issue. If I were you... I'd go straight to 35's. However, the 255/85R17's might give you a little more clearance in the wheel well. I like a little room in wheel well to run chains is need be. I would go without the lift for now and wait for the aftermarket to catch up. I know a couple Toyota guys that run Kenda Klevers and I was looking at a KK 37x12.5R17 set for my Jeep a week ago. Ebay looks to have the best price on Kenda Klevers. A friend of mine sold me a set of Geolandar G003 MT 37x12.5R17's and now I need more lift. That Grenadier is a neat vehicle and would've made a great replacement for my 4Runner. I went a different route with a 2 door Jeep as an off road toy, for the almost weekly trail rides I do. The Jeep just fits the tight trails around here better than a wider vehicle. I have a lifted F150 on 33's for a daily driver, road trips, and the little towing, I do. |
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This guy breaks it down. You want to keep wheel offset as close to stock as you can, but wider/taller tires may require you to mess with offset. He fit 37" tires on a mostly stock Tundra.  How To ACTUALLY Fit Big Tires | 37s on BONE STOCK Tundra w/o Cutting |
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Originally Posted By memsu: This guy breaks it down. You want to keep wheel offset as close to stock as you can, but wider/taller tires may require you to mess with offset. He fit 37" tires on a mostly stock Tundra. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7MyN1qOFgsHis entire channel should be required watching for anyone considering mods to an IFS rig. |