Vision Miner 22 IDEX V4 (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 7/27/2026 1:31:35 PM EDT
|
It has arrived. This thing is a monster! I'm super excited to get it running. We have some large ABS parts that the engineering team has been struggling with that this machine should be able to knock out with zero issues. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
Sexy carbon fiber build plate and kinematic bed mounts with independent triple Z motors for true mechanical bed leveling and 5-axis printing capabilities.  Attached File Attached File |
|
It's alive! Bed leveling is done with a detachable mechanical clicky probe that automatically docks at the back of the printer. This method is supposed to be more robust for high temperature printing that this machine is capable of. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
Land of the once free & the home of the narrative.
Joined:
Jan 2012
Posts:
28876
EE: 100% (216)
AL, USA
|
Running an ABS benchy at 270 nozzle, 90 bed, 80 chamber. Definitely have some issues with the bow not solidifying. Attached File |
|
Not great, not a total disaster. Gotta work on heat control and layer times. The smokestack came out surprisingly well though. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
Jul 2008
Posts:
31965
EE: 100% (5)
MN, USA
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Warping at 80c chamber  https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020898_jpg-3802424.JPG Maybe some purple glue stick? 
|
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
Jul 2008
Posts:
31966
EE: 100% (5)
MN, USA
|
Originally Posted By Blob: It came with some nano polymer adhesive that is supposed to be the shit. I'll try that next. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
|
Originally Posted By RhinelandArms: Super cool. Cant wait to hear some more feedback on it. I dont think we have anything that needs a monster like that...but you never know. My day 1 impressions: Build quality is very good. Linear rails on all axes, very well insulated, steppers mounted externally for heat avoidance, metal brackets and components all over, the handful of 3D printed components in the chamber appear to be PEEK or some nylon. I did struggle getting it connected to the network and gave up after a couple hours but that's due to my company's strict IT policies. I ended up directly connecting to my PC via local wifi where it's controlled primarily through the web interface. Everything is very manual and the controller on the machine is kinda glitchy and not really that great. Definitely a pretty big departure from the seamless UI/UX that I'm used to with prusa. But it does run reprap firmware and has huge potential for customization. |
|
Nano polymer adhesive solved the warping. It sticks almost too well even. Attached File Next hurdle is fine tuning the shrinkage factor. These parts are 330.2mm long and using my previously calculated value of 0.75% I am measuring them at 331.5mm. |
| Its common to need adhesive on CF plates. They dont have as reliable adhesion as PEI but are more resilient and offer a smooth finish which for some engineering applications offers better dimensional accuracy, which makes sense given the intended application for such a machine. |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Its common to need adhesive on CF plates. They dont have as reliable adhesion as PEI but are more resilient and offer a smooth finish which for some engineering applications offers better dimensional accuracy, which makes sense given the intended application for such a machine. Not gonna be so smooth anymore because the adhesive ripped off some of the carbon fibers.
|
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Not gonna be so smooth anymore because the adhesive ripped off some of the carbon fibers. Did you put it in a freezer first? It lets up when you make it cold. I put most plates straight into the deep freezer because I'm impatient and have ruined two PEI plates doing similar things. |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Did you put it in a freezer first? It lets up when you make it cold. I put most plates straight into the deep freezer because I'm impatient and have ruined two PEI plates doing similar things. No I couldn't wait that long. The print after that I just let it sit out in air and it started cracking loose pretty quick. I might pick up a glass plate. This machine will be doing mostly ABS. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: No I couldn't wait that long. The print after that I just let it sit out in air and it started cracking loose pretty quick. I might pick up a glass plate. This machine will be doing mostly ABS. If just ABS why not PEI? PEI is about the most ideal substrate for ABS. Id also question why a VM was needed for ABS. ABS can be printed on nearly any enclosed machine. 
|
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: If just ABS why not PEI? PEI is about the most ideal substrate for ABS. Id also question why a VM was needed for ABS. ABS can be printed on nearly any enclosed machine. The heat bed is non magnetic due to the 200C capability. We went with VM for many reasons 1. Data security because it's not Chinese 2. Large build volume and true IDEX 3. Future capability. We have several PEEK parts that we currently machine and we would like to explore printing them which would reduce costs by an absolutely enormous factor. We don't print exclusively ABS, just mostly. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: The heat bed is non magnetic due to the 200C capability. We went with VM for many reasons 1. Data security because it's not Chinese 2. Large build volume and true IDEX 3. Future capability. We have several PEEK parts that we currently machine and we would like to explore printing them which would reduce costs by an absolutely enormous factor. We don't print exclusively ABS, just mostly. Odd. There are plenty of magnets that easily survive 200C. Even N42EH Neodymium magnets retain full stength magnetism at 200C. How does the CF sheet stay put? Id think you could make PEI stay put in a simiar manner. Understood on other points. IDEX is nice, hopefully it runs as it should. I considered the RatRig IDEX as its also true IDEX and it had a few very alarming reviews and zero positive reviews that I could find so went H2D. You can even 3D print injection molds if you had a small IM machine. I had researched them for my side business a few years back and was surprised at how cheap the small machines are. Less than the VM, just need a way to make the molds which you can now do.
|
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Odd. There are plenty of magnets that easily survive 200C. Even N42EH Neodymium magnets retain full stength magnetism at 200C. How does the CF sheet stay put? Id think you could make PEI stay put in a simiar manner. Understood on other points. IDEX is nice, hopefully it runs as it should. I considered the RatRig IDEX as its also true IDEX and it had a few very alarming reviews and zero positive reviews that I could find so went H2D. You can even 3D print injection molds if you had a small IM machine. I had researched them for my side business a few years back and was surprised at how cheap the small machines are. Less than the VM, just need a way to make the molds which you can now do. One of the main reasons VM said they went with carbon fiber is because the warping forces on high temp materials are strong enough to break glass so they needed the rigidity. It's held in place by clamping down four nuts at the corners. I might could whip up a custom plate with some embedded magnets so I can use a regular steel sheet. It would definitely be more convenient. We do have four injection mold presses on site but they are not large enough for these parts. Years back the company bought a big metal printer for making molds with built in cooling channels but they were unimpressed by the quality and workflow. Maybe technology has improved since then. Build plate hold down screws: Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: One of the main reasons VM said they went with carbon fiber is because the warping forces on high temp materials are strong enough to break glass so they needed the rigidity. It's held in place by clamping down four nuts at the corners. I might could whip up a custom plate with some embedded magnets so I can use a regular steel sheet. It would definitely be more convenient. We do have four injection mold presses on site but they are not large enough for these parts. Years back the company bought a big metal printer for making molds with built in cooling channels but they were unimpressed by the quality and workflow. Maybe technology has improved since then. Thats wild. If you make your own be sure to get EH spec magnets. Regular spec are arent good to 200C. Nearly all magnets used in 3D print beds are EH though hence my confusion on why theyd shy away from them. Even Bambu and Prusa use EH-spec magnets, good to 200C safely. |
|
Running the printer's first job. 5 parts in duplicate mode so 10 at one time. Everything is looking great so far! Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Running the printer's first job. 5 parts in duplicate mode so 10 at one time. Everything is looking great so far! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000021067_jpg-3803828.JPG That's pretty cool....from the pictures it certainly looks like a well built machine. I briefly looked at them when I was looking for a printer for work. I ended up buying the H2D, partly because it's what I have at home and know it well and partly because of the cheaper price vs the true industrial printers. The final decision maker here wasn't convinced we'd use the printer enough to justify the cost, it's been running non stop since I got it and he's the making the most requests for parts lol. I could really use a larger format machine but the price would keep it from happening.....now that he's bought in, I'm guessing I could get something approved pretty quickly. I knew this was how it would go down.
|
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
|
We have a sheet of 1/4" Mic6 cast aluminum plate that I can waterjet to size and machine some magnet pockets. I need a recommendation for a PEI spring steel plate that is ideal for ABS without needing adhesive. Ideally with a mild texture similar to Prusas's satin sheet or even smooth and available on Amazon. What method should I use to retain the magnets in the aluminum? I'm leery of press fit due to thermal expansion and magnet size variation. Would super glue retain its strength at 90C? Or JB weld could be an option too. |
|
Bambu makes a 350x320 sheet.it is slightly more textured than satin but much closer to satin than Prusas textured sheet. You could also look at plates marketed towards Voron. They have a 350x350. Here is the texture of my H2D plate. ABS sticks perfect and auto releases on cool down. Zero glue needed, even my giant respooler printed with zero warping, and it was a tall, square corner design with a 250x270 footprint. Attached File JB weld makes a high heat version suitable for metal. Id use that, and just use a small grinding point to rough up the surface of the pockets and magnet for a better hold. You could also go fancy and tap some set screw threads and use grub screws with a similar coefficient of expansion. |
I see what they mean about the warping forces.  Maybe I'll just stick with the carbon fiber. Attached File Attached File |
|
What was your chamber temp? I mean thats oretty typical for ABS. Ive never had a plate warp off the bed yet, even on my huge parts. Well, not on my Bambu. My Prusa I used to every once in a great great while, but the bambu magnets are a LOT stronger, or there are a lot more of them. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: I see what they mean about the warping forces. Maybe I'll just stick with the carbon fiber. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000021080_jpg-3803976.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000021081_jpg-3803977.JPG That's why you can't let your surface plate calibration go 3 years overdue.....look how much it warped in that time.
|
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: What was your chamber temp? I mean thats oretty typical for ABS. Ive never had a plate warp off the bed yet, even on my huge parts. Well, not on my Bambu. My Prusa I used to every once in a great great while, but the bambu magnets are a LOT stronger, or there are a lot more of them. I did 80 in chamber and 90 bed. I'm open to suggestions on changing that though. The plate is being held down by the screws so it's not coming off the bed but I'd be worried about a spring steel sheet pulling away from the magnets. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: I did 80 in chamber and 90 bed. I'm open to suggestions on changing that though. The plate is being held down by the screws so it's not coming off the bed but I'd be worried about a spring steel sheet pulling away from the magnets. Those are good temps. I do 65/90 on large parts. Havent needed to do 70 but H2D maxxes out there so thankful I havent needed it yet. Id think that youd only be better off (assuming you dont have heat build up issues) at an even higher chamber temp. Thats the only real downside of ABS is the thermal envelope is fairly narrow compared to many others. Too cold and it warps. Too hot or too fast and it exhibits heat deformation. Nothing that cant be solved for of course but I see people struggle with PETG, ABS, and ASA more than any other type, even Nylon. People do PLA and then just send it not understanding the art nor the science of it all. I assume that part is proprietary, otherwise Id offer to print one to see if my build plate warps with it. Maybe it would, who knows. If you used a voron sheet, think you could just clamp it using the same clamps? Maybe modify the clamps into a full frame? Or, crazy idea, what about epoxying or jb welding the pei sheet to the CF sheet? They make high temp epoxy that is thermally conductive, Ive used it for potting LEDs and drivers on custom flashlights. |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Those are good temps. I do 65/90 on large parts. Havent needed to do 70 but H2D maxxes out there so thankful I havent needed it yet. Id think that youd only be better off (assuming you dont have heat build up issues) at an even higher chamber temp. Thats the only real downside of ABS is the thermal envelope is fairly narrow compared to many others. Too cold and it warps. Too hot or too fast and it exhibits heat deformation. Nothing that cant be solved for of course but I see people struggle with PETG, ABS, and ASA more than any other type, even Nylon. People do PLA and then just send it not understanding the art nor the science of it all. I assume that part is proprietary, otherwise Id offer to print one to see if my build plate warps with it. Maybe it would, who knows. If you used a voron sheet, think you could just clamp it using the same clamps? Maybe modify the clamps into a full frame? Or, crazy idea, what about epoxying or jb welding the pei sheet to the CF sheet? They make high temp epoxy that is thermally conductive, Ive used it for potting LEDs and drivers on custom flashlights. The carbon fiber plate is 370mm square so the steel sheet would need to be that large to reach the clamps. Looks like the creality K2 plus uses sheets that size. Maybe I'll pick one up and try it just sitting on top of the CF plate using only the hold down screws. What's the worst that could happen? |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: The carbon fiber plate is 370mm square so the steel sheet would need to be that large to reach the clamps. Looks like the creality K2 plus uses sheets that size. Maybe I'll pick one up and try it just sitting on top of the CF plate using only the hold down screws. What's the worst that could happen? Well it's Creality so it's hard to say.
|
|
Going to start experimenting with multi material supports tomorrow. Part material will be ABS. Will PETG survive 80C chamber without jamming on me? I've played with it a little before on the Core One by swapping manually but found the PETG stuck to the ABS just a little more than I wanted with zero gap interface. The part I'm working on next has a lot of surface area that needs supports and they are recessed about 15 mm so it's going to be kind of annoying to remove. I don't think I need a zero gap on this job so I'll probably do .1 interface. |
|
Do yourself a favor and pick up HIPS. PETG will jam in an 80C chamber, especially on an IDEX or dual nozzle machine like the H2D. I intentionally did testing to failure when I first got my H2D as I have used PETG/PLA support interfaces for years now, so wanted to see how well it could work in the H2D as doing a single nozzle flush between PETG/PLA, etc, typically requires 800-900 mm3 of filament, which is rather wasteful if you're doing more than a couple interface layers, not to mention the time. I went from 35C chamber, and climbed in 5C increments until it jammed. It jammed at 55C. Heat soak from the extruder gears deformed the PETG enough to cause issues. The slicer actually warned me of this potentially happening, but obviously I was trying to get it to fail so pushed on. It jammed at a much lower temp than I expected it to, but considering the significant pressure the extruder gears are (considering pressure vs. contact area), and the fact nozzle heat soaks the hotend more than just what the chamber contributes, I shouldn't have been surprised. Truly, HIPS is what you want. It has a similar temp profile (nozzle, chamber, and bed) and easily separates. I use it, and it's cheap (Bambu makes some called Support for ABS that is really cheap too), and what's nice is it separates easily mechanically but it also dissolves in d-Limonene. |
|
Ran some parts in duplicate mode and the ones from the right nozzle came out with a wavy edge where it should be straight. Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: Oh well I guess that explains it https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000021230_jpg-3806069.JPG Thats a bit unbecoming of a tier 1 printer. That said, shit happens to every brand. None of them are flawless. Did it just come loose? I suspect they use open ended belts vs closed loop belts. But maybe not. |
|
Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Thats a bit unbecoming of a tier 1 printer. That said, shit happens to every brand. None of them are flawless. Did it just come loose? I suspect they use open ended belts vs closed loop belts. But maybe not. Yeah open ended belt and the clamp vibrated loose. It was an easy fix. |
|
Originally Posted By Blob: NPA keeping them flat on round 2 https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/1000020905_jpg-3802444.JPG i am a fan of the NPA. i pretty much only print engineering filaments. |
|
Got a big ole PEI sheet and a roll of HIPS to play with. Attached File ETA: the sheet bows pretty bad when heated. Definitely going to have to make an aluminum sub plate with embedded magnets for this to have a chance of working. |
|
Ran my first multi material part using HIPS to support ABS. Worked pretty well. Adhesion was a little stronger than I anticipated and it was difficult getting a tool under the interface to pry it up, but once I got it in then it came off without too much fuss. The surface is clean except where my spudger marred it a little, and there are some spots along the edges of the interface where the HIPS stuck into the part. I did four rectilinear interface layers. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
|
HIPS dissolves in D-Limonene. Surprised you had adhesion problems. Mine always pop off super clean. It wont pop off quite as easy as PLA to PETG but its still pretty easy to pop off. I generally use a precision flat screwdriver to get a corner started and then it peels off clean. Depending on how the slicer did the interface, you should have nice crisp edges. Only reason I could see that could cause that is if you had an internal fillet as fillets are hard to get fully supported without literally interfacing every layer within the fillet. |