Posted: 2/21/2026 9:43:46 AM EDT
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Our furnace quit a few days ago. It's an older Carrier Super Saver. The flame sensor and ignition seem to be a single unit, underneath the flame tubes (5 burners). When turned on, there is the constant ticking and the pilot light is visible. There is also a "glitching/ ratcheting" sound every several seconds. But no ignition. Looked it up. I pulled the sensor and ignitor and gave them a sanding, but no luck. Anything else I should look at before I buy a new ignition? I'm not even sure they make this anymore, and the ones that I do find are expensive. There are no troubleshooting lights on this model. Thank you |
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If you establish a pilot flame and then hear a clicking noise, that’s most likely the gas valve trying to open to deliver gas to the burners. You either have: A gas issue, possibly a regulator. Failed gas valve (most likely with the info we have). Test for 24v at the gas valve. Test incoming gas pressure with a manometer. That’s the best advice I can give you. |
What is a democrat? Someone who wants everything you have, except for your job.
Politicians should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could see their corporate sponsors.
Politicians should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could see their corporate sponsors.
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If it's still ticking it hasn't ''sensed'' the pilot light yet. What does the pilot light look like, is it decent and does it impinge on the flame sensor? If not, the orifice is partially plugged up in the pilot assy. Pull apart and either replace or clean, the orifice is pretty small though so you need something quite small. [the pilot burner tube unscrews from the burner/sensor assy, I believe it's a 3/8 or 7/16 size. Pretty common. Some are SS, some are aluminum. [orifice matl itself] If it quits ticking [that is the sparker unit] and the valve chatters, then you start looking at the valve itself. The solenoid for the main gas valve is probably weak. There will be no power to the main burner until flame sense happens. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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LOl. Kind of. Looking for a gas valve now. Warranty company came and did their estimate. The unit is out of date and needs to be replaced. They said they would cover the unit but the retrofitting it is not covered ($3500). The vent goes up and into the brick wall and up the chimney. They said the chimney needed a vent liner for this. Also, the water heater next to it inserts into the wall next to it. Said both vents needed to be combined to enter the chimney. Said there is carbon monoxide leaking because of this. I want to call bullshit because we've been running it for 15 years and never tripped a CO alarm. They said they were required to bring it up to code. They mentioned a bunch of EPA regs and stuff. The unit is 20 plus years old. All brick built in 1957. I picked up another cord of wood and told the wife to decide. She's getting a second opinion. They also, of course, said we can swapp out the AC condenser and evap coil for another $4k. That unit is 13 years old, but works fine. |
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Originally Posted By Cooper1: LOl. Kind of. Looking for a gas valve now. Warranty company came and did their estimate. The unit is out of date and needs to be replaced. They said they would cover the unit but the retrofitting it is not covered ($3500). The vent goes up and into the brick wall and up the chimney. They said the chimney needed a vent liner for this. Also, the water heater next to it inserts into the wall next to it. Said both vents needed to be combined to enter the chimney. Said there is carbon monoxide leaking because of this. I want to call bullshit because we've been running it for 15 years and never tripped a CO alarm. They said they were required to bring it up to code. They mentioned a bunch of EPA regs and stuff. The unit is 20 plus years old. All brick built in 1957. I picked up another cord of wood and told the wife to decide. She's getting a second opinion. They also, of course, said we can swapp out the AC condenser and evap coil for another $4k. That unit is 13 years old, but works fine. Huh? So you have a warranty service and they will cover replacement but they are using a new 80% furnace as opposed to a 90%+ that just needs a PVC vent run thru the wall and no chimney liner? If they are yapping ''EPA'' then the regs [in some parts of the country anyways] mandate a high efficiency 90%+ and that doesn't use a chimney liner. You can just cap the furnace vent hole in it and continue to use it for the water heater and a 2'' vent run thru a wall for the furnace. You might need a condensate pump for the condensate from it to get it to a drain. Or, are they replacing the heat exchanger due to the claim of ''CO?" Hate to say it but I trust so few ''furnace repair'' guys because so many don't know shit anymore save for selling a new system. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By fxntime: Huh? So you have a warranty service and they will cover replacement but they are using a new 80% furnace as opposed to a 90%+ that just needs a PVC vent run thru the wall and no chimney liner? If they are yapping ''EPA'' then the regs [in some parts of the country anyways] mandate a high efficiency 90%+ and that doesn't use a chimney liner. You can just cap the furnace vent hole in it and continue to use it for the water heater and a 2'' vent run thru a wall for the furnace. You might need a condensate pump for the condensate from it to get it to a drain. Or, are they replacing the heat exchanger due to the claim of ''CO?" Hate to say it but I trust so few ''furnace repair'' guys because so many don't know shit anymore save for selling a new system. Can't just have the water heater on the brick/block chinmey. Not enough BTU's to promote natural draft. The flue gasses will condensate half way up the chimney and rot out the mortor joints causing chimney failue. Any time you remove an old 70-80% furnce off the chimney, the water heater will require a 4" liner to draft properly. |
What is a democrat? Someone who wants everything you have, except for your job.
Politicians should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could see their corporate sponsors.
Politicians should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could see their corporate sponsors.
|
Originally Posted By Cooper1: Nothing but the clicking and the occasional ratcheting sound. If I remember, the blower starts right after the burners ignite. Did they tap off of a 24v hot and see if the gas valve works or are they guessing? What is the valve make and model number? Hell, I MIGHT have a new one floating around. Is this a 3 wire pilot set up? If so, that is the first place I'd start, they absolutely will act like that when they start going bad. I know I have a couple of those around somewhere. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Man… I forgot about the the old 3-wire pilot assemblies. Good call FT. OP, watch this.  troubleshoot electric pilot Carrier BDP |
What is a democrat? Someone who wants everything you have, except for your job.
Politicians should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could see their corporate sponsors.
Politicians should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could see their corporate sponsors.
|
OP, if it is a 3 wire pilot set up, I can bet the tech that came out has no clue on how it works and the symptoms. It was a screwed up setup that only BCP used and both the pilot orifice and the 3 wire prove are causes for issues. I really didn't replace many valves but I replaced a LOT of 3 wire pilots and at one time, they were almost unobtainable. Dads furnace used them so I picked up a couple because every few years I'd have to replace it. They are only $30-$40 or so but places will run a line of shit about them often. First place I'd start personally. You need a good pilot flame and a good sense/bimetallic part for it to work right. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By kychas: If a small fan/ blower starts it needs to see a vacuum at a diaphragm switch to prove the fan is running before the gas will start. So is the switch tripping? Is the fan running? Is the gas flowing after the switch trips? My unit went out twice this winter for that issue, and disconnecting the tube going to the pressure switch and poking a heavy gauge wire into the nipple on the exhaust fan housing seemed to resolve the issue, so perhaps it was clogged, but when it happened for a third time this week, I replaced the switch and the hose. Inexpensive parts and takes more time to open the furnace than to replace the hose and switch. Helps that I have an incredibly simple Goodman furnace and that it has a status light on the control board that indicates the issue. |
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Originally Posted By Cooper1: Thank you guys. I'll check the pilot wires when I get home today. It's a bit fiddly to replace, you kind of have to jimmy the pilot line around to get it out and you need to be very careful threading and lining it back up but other then that, it's not hard, just don't force it. You just need a couple of tools and a decent set of smaller wrenches and sockets. [1/4 and 7/16 mostly] Clean the pilot orifice when it's out with a fine needle point. If the tech didn't check it [and I'd bet he didn't] it's worth a shot. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
|
Originally Posted By ZW17: Can't just have the water heater on the brick/block chinmey. Not enough BTU's to promote natural draft. The flue gasses will condensate half way up the chimney and rot out the mortor joints causing chimney failue. Any time you remove an old 70-80% furnce off the chimney, the water heater will require a 4" liner to draft properly. This. |
| I'm wondering where the original vent is. I'm guessing it rides behind the fireplace masonry. The furnace and water heater are directly below, one floor down. I was thinking about asking if he could put a tie in fitting inside the fireplace so I could add a wood stove insert. But I'm busting through the masonry doesn't seem practical. |
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Originally Posted By Cooper1: I'm wondering where the original vent is. I'm guessing it rides behind the fireplace masonry. The furnace and water heater are directly below, one floor down. I was thinking about asking if he could put a tie in fitting inside the fireplace so I could add a wood stove insert. But I'm busting through the masonry doesn't seem practical. Can't run a fireplace/wood insert thru the same chimney as gas fired appliances. Now if there are separate individual runs in the same chimney outer housing, it's usually OK. [check applicable local codes] |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...