Posted: 1/12/2026 3:50:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Mach][Edited]
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I have had second hand Yamaha FG700s acoustic that I paid $100 for a few years ago and bought it from a guy that upgraded to an Alvarez. The action was fairly high, had a very fine finish crack on the front. I fixed that with crazy glue. I set up the neck relief and sanded the saddle a bit to lower the action some, but it was still high and hard to play barr chords at the 7th fret and above. Yesterday I ordered from amazon, a beef bone already cut nut, a compensated bone saddle, and bone bridge pins. I just spent 2 hours sanding the nut to the right height and width and sanding the saddle to get the action height I wanted. I took my time so I would not take off too much of either. This Yamaha FG700S now has the bone nut, bone saddle and bone bridge pins installed. The action at the 12th fret is 0.08 inches and it plays beautifully. Surprising I did not have to adjust the intonation, it is right on. What a world of difference. It has a Sitka Spruce top, yes they come in grades, and a Nato laminate back and sides, so not a solid tone wood guitar. However, with the bone parts, the strings are much more articulate, they sing and can be heard independently when strummed instead of the somewhat dull muted sound it used to have, and the sustain and clarity is amazingly good. It sounds like a whole new guitar. and it only cost $12 for the parts and about 2 hours of my time maybe 3 I didn't hack a clock. It was well worth the effort and it is a joy to play and it sounds a hell of a lot better than it used to. I am amazed at the difference. This was not hard to do at all, I have never tried this before and it came out great. If you ever thought about doing this, you should. Next thing after I buy the tool will be to slot the bridge. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By KorinaBrother:  where be pix?  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
Mach
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It's fun learning luthier work. You should watch some of the stewmac how-to videos. They have quite a few good ones. Watch Elyse make a guitar nut. (and try not to giggle like an idiot at all the unintentional innuendo like I did)  How to Make a Guitar Nut from a Blank |
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Originally Posted By Redoubt99: Thats a nice guitar! When it comes to my instruments Im kinda an elitist. But over the years Ive really seen that Yamaha makes a fine instrument in an affordable cost range. I recently bought an almost new Zager 50 OM that I really like. I cleaned up my 2 Yamahas, including this one, to sell them and then they looked so good I didn't put them up for sale. I think I will though. I have my eye on a D-28 or a J-45. But working on these guitars has been fun. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By cgrant26: It's fun learning luthier work. You should watch some of the stewmac how-to videos. They have quite a few good ones. Watch Elyse make a guitar nut. (and try not to giggle like an idiot at all the unintentional innuendo like I did)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im1Qw2CI8BQoff to watch that video. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Redoubt99: Thats a nice guitar! When it comes to my instruments Im kinda an elitist. But over the years Ive really seen that Yamaha makes a fine instrument in a affordable cost range. One of the nicest sounding kits I ever drummed on was a Yamaha Recording Custom with the toms RIMS mounted. Felt great and sound so sweet. |
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Originally Posted By RickFinsta: Please don't use random glue on an instrument it always makes it harder for a luthier to fix things later. Crazy glue on the finish crack seems to have worked. It filled in the small crack and I think has prevented it from worsening as it has been 2 years since I did it. I would never use crazy glue on a more valuable instrument but if this guitar needs work by a professional, it would be cheaper to take it to the range to see how 9mm makes it play and just buy a new guitar. I actually got the idea from a reputable luthier on youtube that fixes finish cracks with crazy glue. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Mach: I understand what you are saying, but there is no way a luthier is every going to look at this guitar as it is worth what I paid for it $100. Crazy glue on the finish crack seems to have worked. It filled in the small crack and I think has prevented it from worsening as it has been 2 years since I did it. I would never use crazy glue on a more valuable instrument but if this guitar needs work by a professional, it would be cheaper to take it to the range to see how 9mm makes it play and just buy a new guitar. I actually got the idea from a reputable luthier on youtube that fixes finish cracks with crazy glue. I get ya just one of my pet peeves from doing setups on acoustics in my guitar shop days. Depending on what the finish is, you can often use naptha to fix small imperfections. |
Forgot to mention in my last post, if you enjoy watching luthier work, check out Daisy Tempest.  Building a $36k Acoustic Guitar | Documentary (With Client Reaction) |
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It’s fun to see people with uber expensive guitars get butthurt when a relatively cheap guitar outplays and sounds better than theirs!!! Cognitive dissonance is a thing. Strong work, sir! |
"I see dumb people... they're everywhere. They walk around like everyone else. They don't even know that they're dumb."
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Originally Posted By cgrant26: Forgot to mention in my last post, if you enjoy watching luthier work, check out Daisy Tempest. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18scWjZHXZEI had no idea anybody still made guitars by hand. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By tonysoprano150: It's fun to see people with uber expensive guitars get butthurt when a relatively cheap guitar outplays and sounds better than theirs!!! Cognitive dissonance is a thing. Strong work, sir! I recently bought a Zager 50 CE OM acoustic for 1/3rd of new price that the guy had it only a few months, simply because he either had no idea how to set the neck relief or had no confidence to try without wrecking the neck, either way he basically gave it away because the neck had too much relief ( it was way more than it should have come from the factory with or he adjusted it the wrong way and gave up ) which made it more difficult to play. I bought it, brought it home and it took me literally 5 minutes to set the neck relief with an allen wrench and made it a beautifully playing guitar, best I ever played but I have never played a high end guitar. TLDR: I think but am not sure that high end guitars are usually set up by a luthier before it leaves the factory, lower end guitars are assembled to spec and probably nobody even looks at them before they ship. But, I didn't see anybody get butthurt. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Bhart89: There's a reason the Yamaha emblem is a tuning fork. All the Yamaha's I've played are amazing. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Mach: Well, play-ability has some variables to include frets but is mostly the height of the nut and saddle, especially the saddle that determines the action height and desired height varies from player to player based on really just how hard they hit the strings. A light player can have the strings much closer to the frets ( low action ) without fret buzz and somebody that smashes the strings needs a higher action set. As a result most factory setups, if there is one, is set pretty high and it costs money to have a luthier set the action lower. Generally speaking most people that buy an entry level mass produced guitar in the $200-$800 ( new ) or so range are not going to pay a luthier several hundred dollars to setup their guitar. It really pays if the guitar player can do it himself and with most electrics it is very easy and reversible until you get it right, if you don't do it correctly, but with an acoustic it will involve sanding the saddle (and potentially the nut ) but mostly just the saddle to a lower height and then potentially needing to change the compensation ( more delicate sanding ) of the nut, ie where each string touches the saddle to change the string length. In a world where probably a very large chunk of guitar players don't even change their own strings, the vast majority of players simply will not learn how to do it and will just play instruments that are harder to play because the action is high. I recently bought a Zager 50 CE OM acoustic for 1/3rd of new price that the guy had it only a few months, simply because he either had no idea how to set the neck relief or had no confidence to try without wrecking the neck, either way he basically gave it away because the neck had too much relief ( it was way more than it should have come from the factory with or he adjusted it the wrong way and gave up ) which made it more difficult to play. I bought it, brought it home and it took me literally 5 minutes to set the neck relief with an allen wrench and made it a beautifully playing guitar, best I ever played but I have never played a high end guitar. TLDR: I think but am not sure that high end guitars are usually set up by a luthier before it leaves the factory, lower end guitars are assembled to spec and probably nobody even looks at them before they ship. But, I didn't see anybody get butthurt. Not yet, but in my experience it is usually seen in these type of threads , lol |
"I see dumb people... they're everywhere. They walk around like everyone else. They don't even know that they're dumb."
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So I worked on my Yamaha FD01S this morning, after a few cups of coffee. I sanded down the bone saddle and installed, but I could not get the plastic nut out, it seems to be solidly glued in. I gave it a few small taps and no movement. Then I tried pressing it out and got no movement and decided to just leave it in. I did learn something new today. If you take a bridge pin with a flat bottom and sand a 45 degree angle at the bottom, sand the bottom of the string groove, that angle forces the string nut at the end of the string against the black of the wood under the saddle and the pin doesn't loosen up and or pop out when tuning the string AND the string has a good solid connection to the top of the guitar and transfers more energy to the to that way. I am still going to slot the bridge pin holes I just have not ordered the tool yet, that will also help transfer more string energy to the top. The bone saddle in the FD01S also made a huge difference in sound just like in the first Yamaha. With the better sound, better sustain, and lowered action I really like both these guitars now plus it was fun to do it myself. |
Mach
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So here's a Q since I'm looking at a very high action on the Landola that I fixed the neck on... Did you put a straight edge across the soundboard behind the bridge to see if the soundboard is bowed up? I wouldn't have thought the saddle would be higher than when it left the factory unless the whole bridge was lifted/tilted. |
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Originally Posted By madmacs69: So here's a Q since I'm looking at a very high action on the Landola that I fixed the neck on... Did you put a straight edge across the soundboard behind the bridge to see if the soundboard is bowed up? I wouldn't have thought the saddle would be higher than when it left the factory unless the whole bridge was lifted/tilted. ETA: The action was 0.125 in or so before I lowered it. It now sits at about 0.070 in with no fret buzz anywhere. First I lowered it to about 0.085 and I lowered it again yesterday. It has 6 thousands of neck relief, I did the same with the Yamaha FD01S yesterday. Pretty amazing for such inexpensive guitars, that the frets are level enough to put it there with no fret buzz. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By tonysoprano150: Not yet, but in my experience it is usually seen in these type of threads , lol I've got a lot of money tied up in acoustic guitars. And I'm not butt hurt at all. Once you get a guitar with reasonable construction and materials set up right it's the player more than the guitar. Besides the expensive ones I also have an old Yamaha made in Taiwan with solid top (that IS mandatory for me for tone) and layered back and sides. Bought it used with finish worn off at the cowboy chord area on the neck. Frets are great. Action is spot on. And it sounds fine and plays fine. It's the one I take to anywhere that someone might ask if they can play a song and I don't worry about them banging on it. I love my expensive guitars. And they do play and sound better than the Yamaha. I mean it's like comparing a V6 Mustang to a Ferrari in some cases. Are they worth the large price difference? Meh. I must think so since I got them. But as a player if I was restricted to the Yamaha the rest of my life I'd be OK with it. it's good enough. |
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Originally Posted By Mach: Well that is true, but those D-28s are a hell of a lot more than $3400!!! so obviously truss rods are a crunch for a poor build! Originally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By RickFinsta: LOL real D-28s don't have an adjustable truss rod at all!   so obviously truss rods are a crunch for a poor build! Nah you can get an early 70s unit for like $2.5-3k. They still had a T-bar in them so you can get them heat pressed once or twice but mine needs a neck reset next time I need frets. I'm on my third set since I got her in 1997-1998 or so. It really isn't that hard to find a 1972-1974 that has really opened up. My '72 sounds fucking amazing. |
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Originally Posted By RickFinsta: Nah you can get an early 70s unit for like $2.5-3k. They still had a T-bar in them so you can get them heat pressed once or twice but mine needs a neck reset next time I need frets. I'm on my third set since I got her in 1997-1998 or so. It really isn't that hard to find a 1972-1974 that has really opened up. My '72 sounds fucking amazing. Originally Posted By RickFinsta: Originally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By RickFinsta: LOL real D-28s don't have an adjustable truss rod at all! so obviously truss rods are a crunch for a poor build! Nah you can get an early 70s unit for like $2.5-3k. They still had a T-bar in them so you can get them heat pressed once or twice but mine needs a neck reset next time I need frets. I'm on my third set since I got her in 1997-1998 or so. It really isn't that hard to find a 1972-1974 that has really opened up. My '72 sounds fucking amazing. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By tonysoprano150: Not yet, but in my experience it is usually seen in these type of threads , lol Originally Posted By tonysoprano150: Originally Posted By Mach: Well, play-ability has some variables to include frets but is mostly the height of the nut and saddle, especially the saddle that determines the action height and desired height varies from player to player based on really just how hard they hit the strings. A light player can have the strings much closer to the frets ( low action ) without fret buzz and somebody that smashes the strings needs a higher action set. As a result most factory setups, if there is one, is set pretty high and it costs money to have a luthier set the action lower. Generally speaking most people that buy an entry level mass produced guitar in the $200-$800 ( new ) or so range are not going to pay a luthier several hundred dollars to setup their guitar. It really pays if the guitar player can do it himself and with most electrics it is very easy and reversible until you get it right, if you don't do it correctly, but with an acoustic it will involve sanding the saddle (and potentially the nut ) but mostly just the saddle to a lower height and then potentially needing to change the compensation ( more delicate sanding ) of the nut, ie where each string touches the saddle to change the string length. In a world where probably a very large chunk of guitar players don't even change their own strings, the vast majority of players simply will not learn how to do it and will just play instruments that are harder to play because the action is high. I recently bought a Zager 50 CE OM acoustic for 1/3rd of new price that the guy had it only a few months, simply because he either had no idea how to set the neck relief or had no confidence to try without wrecking the neck, either way he basically gave it away because the neck had too much relief ( it was way more than it should have come from the factory with or he adjusted it the wrong way and gave up ) which made it more difficult to play. I bought it, brought it home and it took me literally 5 minutes to set the neck relief with an allen wrench and made it a beautifully playing guitar, best I ever played but I have never played a high end guitar. TLDR: I think but am not sure that high end guitars are usually set up by a luthier before it leaves the factory, lower end guitars are assembled to spec and probably nobody even looks at them before they ship. But, I didn't see anybody get butthurt. Not yet, but in my experience it is usually seen in these type of threads , lol It would be like somebody with a real Colt M-4 select fire rifle getting but hurt because another guy put a chinese copy of an aimpoint on his semi-auto Anderson AR15 and was happy with the hits he was getting at 200 yards. Most everybody has a different reference point. I put the bone saddle on my Yamaha FD01S yesterday and that saddle really brought out the clarity and sustain of each individual string compared to the plastic saddle, but I am sure it does not sound or play as nice as a high end martin or Taylor or Breedlove etc. But I still enjoyed playing it for a few hours yesterday and I got that guitar for free because it had a broken tuning machine and the guy selling it for his wife was like shit, we didn't notice that. It is my wife's guitar and I said I would sell it for for but now I can't sell it like this, I dont have time to fix. I am just going to take $85 out of my wallet, hand it to my wife and say you bought it, just take it for free, fix it or throw it in the trash, I don't care, but if you toss it, please do it well outside my neighborhood so my wife doesn't see it in the trash. LOL . 3 months later I broke down and bought some tuning machines for it. I have a grand total of $27 in this guitar and I do like playing it. I do think that at their price point, Yamaha makes good guitars. I would like a solid Indian Rosewood back and sides guitar and am debating buy a Martin APC, or D-28, or maybe a Yamaha LL-16. Today I am going to look at a Guild GAD-50, Sitka spruce top, solid Rosewood back and sides and bone saddle and nut. I don't know the year yet, but they only started making them 20 years ago and he wants $300 for it. I don't know if that Chinese made Guild is going to scratch my itch for an solid rosewood back and sides guitar, but I am going to go look at it and see. I have found that most people do not take care of their stuff and I do take care of my stuff and I know nothing about how it was constructed but I will go look at it and play it but I don't have high expectations. This guy is 78 and used to own a guitar shop and he buys and sells used guitars after he is done playing them for a bit. He said he has had this one for a year or so. I have seen that Chinese Yamaha guitars are well made, but I don't know about Chinese Guild guitars. Anyway I am rambling for no good reason. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By hellishhorses: Big fan of Yamaha for the value. I've got a CSF3M (solid mahogany) my kids got me for Father's Day for couch pickin' https://www.nstuffmusic.com/images/product/large/ae00-65556_3_.jpg and an LL16RD (spruce top / rosewood back & sides) that I sold a korean strat and a fender acoustic for https://thumbs.static-thomann.de/thumb/padthumb600x600/pics/bdb/_33/336335/8960792_800.jpg |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Mach: How do you like that LL16? It is a beautiful guitar. In terms of aesthetics and sound. Nothing has ever hit my ear quite like this guitar and a new set of D'Addario 80/20 bronze light strings — even though I usually keep coated StringJoys on it for price and longevity. I played the Rosewood and Mahogany back-to-back and the rosewood sounded brighter and louder. The mahogany sounded warmer and slightly bass-ier Passive pickup means the soundboard operator at church has to dial it in a little more than the onboard guys, but it sounds incredible. It's as close to a D28 as I could afford. It's not a $4k guitar, but it punches WAAAAY above its price tag ($900 when I bought mine, but worth every bit of the $1300 they're going for now). All solid wood construction, super playable action, buttery smooth fretboard, beautiful craftsmanship, not made in China. I found more wood construction than originally thought once I got it home (purfling, binding & backstrips on the neck Mine's an OG that didn't come with a pick guard so I put one of those paper-thin, clear ones on it — I'm not usually a fan of pick guards. |
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Originally Posted By hellishhorses: It is a beautiful guitar. In terms of aesthetics and sound. Nothing has ever hit my ear quite like this guitar and a new set of D'Addario 80/20 bronze light strings even though I usually keep coated StringJoys on it for price and longevity. I played the Rosewood and Mahogany back-to-back and the rosewood sounded brighter and louder. The mahogany sounded warmer and slightly bass-ier Passive pickup means the soundboard operator at church has to dial it in a little more than the onboard guys, but it sounds incredible. It's as close to a D28 as I could afford. It's not a $4k guitar, but it punches WAAAAY above its price tag ($900 when I bought mine, but worth every bit of the $1300 they're going for now). All solid wood construction, super playable action, buttery smooth fretboard, beautiful craftsmanship, not made in China. I found more wood construction than originally thought once I got it home (purfling, binding & backstrips on the neck Mine's an OG that didn't come with a pick guard so I put one of those paper-thin, clear ones on it I'm not usually a fan of pick guards. Originally Posted By hellishhorses: Originally Posted By Mach: How do you like that LL16? It is a beautiful guitar. In terms of aesthetics and sound. Nothing has ever hit my ear quite like this guitar and a new set of D'Addario 80/20 bronze light strings even though I usually keep coated StringJoys on it for price and longevity. I played the Rosewood and Mahogany back-to-back and the rosewood sounded brighter and louder. The mahogany sounded warmer and slightly bass-ier Passive pickup means the soundboard operator at church has to dial it in a little more than the onboard guys, but it sounds incredible. It's as close to a D28 as I could afford. It's not a $4k guitar, but it punches WAAAAY above its price tag ($900 when I bought mine, but worth every bit of the $1300 they're going for now). All solid wood construction, super playable action, buttery smooth fretboard, beautiful craftsmanship, not made in China. I found more wood construction than originally thought once I got it home (purfling, binding & backstrips on the neck Mine's an OG that didn't come with a pick guard so I put one of those paper-thin, clear ones on it I'm not usually a fan of pick guards. i stopped and played a Yamaha LL-TA Engleman spruce and rosewood back and sides today in a local shop. I stopped to see if they had an LL-16 but they did not. The salesman basically twisted my arm, I did not feel like playing the LL-TA and told him so, that I was not interested in the electronics. He handed it to me and said just feel it. I did and handed it back and he said I am putting it on this stand, you should play it and he walked away. So I took a pick out of my pocket and my tuner, tuned it, checked the intonation and it was perfect, like I had never seen that perfect, so I sat on the stool and played. About 20 minutes later he came over and said something about a time limit, wiped it to get finger prints off of it and hung it back up then pointed to the new guitar next to it on the wall and commented on how scratched up the pickguard was. So I guess I over stayed my welcome playing it. I really liked it but would rather the rosewood LL-16. Nobody currently has any except for Sweetwater so I am thinking of doing that. I would like a nice rosewood back and sides but don't want to spend the $3600 on a Martin D-28. I am assuming the LL-16 is pretty much the same thing as an LL-TA without the electronic gizmo, but maybe I am wrong, the LL-TA is made in China. |
Mach
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Well in keeping with this thread, I piurchased my new (old) guitar for my Thailand visits. I am here 2 months a year and needed SOMETHING to play. Had to be solid wood, good action, good tone. Found an old Saida Yairi similar to the Martin D35. Real rosewood/spruce. Made in Japan. Bit dinged up. Missing the strap peg in the base (might have had electronics at some point and removed), with a case that might or might not be original. Might have over paid. Cost me 20,000 baht. Or about $630. Would post photos but imgur is weird, Can not seem to add to my photos. Or maybe I just learned I can do them here. LOL Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By jimmybcool: Well in keeping with this thread, I piurchased my new (old) guitar for my Thailand visits. I am here 2 months a year and needed SOMETHING to play. Had to be solid wood, good action, good tone. Found an old Saida Yairi similar to the Martin D35. Real rosewood/spruce. Made in Japan. Bit dinged up. Missing the strap peg in the base (might have had electronics at some point and removed), with a case that might or might not be original. Might have over paid. Cost me 20,000 baht. Or about $630. Would post photos but imgur is weird, Can not seem to add to my photos. Or maybe I just learned I can do them here. LOL https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/4601/IMG_2863_JPG-3697180.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/4601/IMG_2867_JPG-3697181.JPG You have the same capo I have. I also have the same tuner but I upgraded to a strobe tuner and just keep the old one as a backup. |
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Originally Posted By jimmybcool: I've got a lot of money tied up in acoustic guitars. And I'm not butt hurt at all. Once you get a guitar with reasonable construction and materials set up right it's the player more than the guitar. Besides the expensive ones I also have an old Yamaha made in Taiwan with solid top (that IS mandatory for me for tone) and layered back and sides. Bought it used with finish worn off at the cowboy chord area on the neck. Frets are great. Action is spot on. And it sounds fine and plays fine. It's the one I take to anywhere that someone might ask if they can play a song and I don't worry about them banging on it. I love my expensive guitars. And they do play and sound better than the Yamaha. I mean it's like comparing a V6 Mustang to a Ferrari in some cases. Are they worth the large price difference? Meh. I must think so since I got them. But as a player if I was restricted to the Yamaha the rest of my life I'd be OK with it. it's good enough. Originally Posted By jimmybcool: Originally Posted By tonysoprano150: Not yet, but in my experience it is usually seen in these type of threads , lol I've got a lot of money tied up in acoustic guitars. And I'm not butt hurt at all. Once you get a guitar with reasonable construction and materials set up right it's the player more than the guitar. Besides the expensive ones I also have an old Yamaha made in Taiwan with solid top (that IS mandatory for me for tone) and layered back and sides. Bought it used with finish worn off at the cowboy chord area on the neck. Frets are great. Action is spot on. And it sounds fine and plays fine. It's the one I take to anywhere that someone might ask if they can play a song and I don't worry about them banging on it. I love my expensive guitars. And they do play and sound better than the Yamaha. I mean it's like comparing a V6 Mustang to a Ferrari in some cases. Are they worth the large price difference? Meh. I must think so since I got them. But as a player if I was restricted to the Yamaha the rest of my life I'd be OK with it. it's good enough. Exactly. This thread has had me thinking about screwing around with one of my guitars but because it’s an off catalogue prototype I probably won’t touch it. With the laminated back and sides that is typical of Japanese built guitars it is what it is and messing with the saddle/nut isn’t going to change that. Besides, sometimes you want or need that dull boxy sound anyway. 😉 My Go-to guitar isn’t my nicest/most expensive/rarest one either and I am perfectly happy to play it until I can’t anymore. It’s just a nice all rounder. My expensive ones tend to be much more specialized which has its own set of problems but there certainly isn’t any butthurt. Every guitar has its own unique sound and if you can learn to play it well given what you have to work with…. It’s all good. Carry on! |
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Originally Posted By Mach: I thought they were made in China. Where are they made, or maybe they are now made in China. i stopped and played a Yamaha LL-TA Engleman spruce and rosewood back and sides today in a local shop. I stopped to see if they had an LL-16 but they did not. The salesman basically twisted my arm, I did not feel like playing the LL-TA and told him so, that I was not interested in the electronics. He handed it to me and said just feel it. I did and handed it back and he said I am putting it on this stand, you should play it and he walked away. So I took a pick out of my pocket and my tuner, tuned it, checked the intonation and it was perfect, like I had never seen that perfect, so I sat on the stool and played. About 20 minutes later he came over and said something about a time limit, wiped it to get finger prints off of it and hung it back up then pointed to the new guitar next to it on the wall and commented on how scratched up the pickguard was. So I guess I over stayed my welcome playing it. I really liked it but would rather the rosewood LL-16. Nobody currently has any except for Sweetwater so I am thinking of doing that. I would like a nice rosewood back and sides but don't want to spend the $3600 on a Martin D-28. I am assuming the LL-16 is pretty much the same thing as an LL-TA without the electronic gizmo, but maybe I am wrong, the LL-TA is made in China. Had to look it up. Guess they are currently made in China — my label says made in Taiwan. But it is incredible right out of the box. |
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Originally Posted By jimmybcool: I am curious what is a strobe tuner? Always looking for new gear. https://www.petersontuners.com/shop/?srsltid=AfmBOop8G8KWpbDaVN4UuI3qBmhwASH7Lm5acjB_zOox1SDRRbk4zSEo In practical terms, they are very accurate and easy to read; you can see finer adjustments. I have a few of the Stroboclip HDC and one Strobostomp HD... |
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Originally Posted By splitbolt: https://www.petersontuners.com/shop/?srsltid=AfmBOop8G8KWpbDaVN4UuI3qBmhwASH7Lm5acjB_zOox1SDRRbk4zSEo In practical terms, they are very accurate and easy to read; you can see finer adjustments. I have a few of the Stroboclip HDC and one Strobostomp HD... Originally Posted By splitbolt: Originally Posted By jimmybcool: I am curious what is a strobe tuner? Always looking for new gear. https://www.petersontuners.com/shop/?srsltid=AfmBOop8G8KWpbDaVN4UuI3qBmhwASH7Lm5acjB_zOox1SDRRbk4zSEo In practical terms, they are very accurate and easy to read; you can see finer adjustments. I have a few of the Stroboclip HDC and one Strobostomp HD... |
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Originally Posted By splitbolt: https://www.petersontuners.com/shop/?srsltid=AfmBOop8G8KWpbDaVN4UuI3qBmhwASH7Lm5acjB_zOox1SDRRbk4zSEo In practical terms, they are very accurate and easy to read; you can see finer adjustments. I have a few of the Stroboclip HDC and one Strobostomp HD... Aha, Yes I have a strobostomp somewhere around here. Wasn't as convenient as the clip ons. Used it on my pedal board back when I played some electric. Last I checked I think the bubble on the face was falling off. Need to dig it up again. |