Posted: 5/26/2025 6:58:48 PM EDT
Long story short, I bought an Associated RC10 Worlds Car repro a few years ago when I had some time…built the chassis and ran out of money and time for it  Well I’ve got the money and time…but no knowledge anymore. My last RC car I built was circa 1988-1990-ish and the world has clearly moved on. The first car I built was an original RC10 in the mid-late 80s so the car tickles my nostalgia bone Anyway - are Futaba controllers/electronics still the play? I know battery tech has improved massively…is there something I should look for specifically? How about motors? Are 540s still the standard, or…? 
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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I believe futaba is still in the game. Probably very expensive still. Lots of folks going Spektrum and FlySky these days. Lots of OEMs doing Spektrum these days. For motors I haven't been in the go fast stuff in ages. Last time I was Hobbywing was starting to take off and Castle was the hot stuff. I believe some of the Spektrum branded ESCs are Hobbywing. At least the ones I've used are but Spektrum locks out the Hobbywing programmers so you have to buy their more expensive one that is the same thing but with their logo on it. I don't know if the re-RC10 will handle but brushless power but you can always tune timing, start power, etc with the new brushless controllers. Castle did "traction control" or "launch control" years ago. I'm sure more do these days. |
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I have a bunch of Futaba and MRC 75MHz radio gear, I love the stuff, even if the range is more limited and the receivers are bigger than the modern stuff. But, as far as modern radio systems... that are affordable, Radiolink and Flysky seem to be pretty good. They make both styles of controllers. I have a Flysky FS-i4, and a Radiolink T8FB. You can add the throttle return spring to both, the Radiolink comes with it. (If you like dual-stick controllers). I should have gotten the 6 channel flysky, as it has an LCD screen to make setting the throttle and steering limits easier. Waiting for my USB cable to come in for mine, so I can program it. The Radiolink has Bluetooth and an app for iOS and Android for configuring it. Receivers are stupid cheap, can pick up extras $10-20 per the each. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Hey OP are you going to race it or just for mild park running/bashing? The ReRes are becoming a popular vintage class to run and guys I know are putting in a 13.5 blinky system in it. You can go all out or a budget build with all the options available. For servos I'd do a Savox 1258 or a Protek 100. Hobbywing EZrun or Quickrun system. If you're planning on adding multiple cars I fully recommend a Flysky Noble 4+ TX. Nothing else can really touch it for the money and Receivers are cheap. Maybe a Flysky GT5 or Futaba 3pv if you're not gonna get more cars but I learned the hard way when starting back in and wasted a grip of $$$ on different Transmitters when I should've just got the one I have now in the first place. You'll also want to get a decent charger like a Protek, SkyRC or Hitec. For car Lipos I like Protek, Zeee, Ovonic, Gens Ace. |
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Nah this is almost purely for backyard bashing, maybe putting slicks on it and winding it up in the culdesac, crap like that - no competition...I don't even think there's an RC track anywhere near here. A few years ago an RC shop opened up by where I used to work, and they apparently bought some old farmland and turned it into an RC track about 45 minutes outside of town..this was like 2018 or so. Now I can't remember the name of the store and there's zero google/bing/other search engine hits for any RC tracks or stores within that zone...so I'm guessing it dried up and died. Oh well  But anyway - yeah, this is strictly for fucking around with in the back yard. I might wire in a set of headlights or something to use a 3rd channel for, if I can ever figure that out, but that'll be the most complex thing this will do. Just an electronic speed control (I mean do they even make the old school resistor ones anymore?), the receiver, transmitter, steering servo...nothing fancy. The middling Toyota Corolla of electronics is all I really need, but I am partial to Futaba I'm actually gonna be in the NY/NJ area in a day or two; I'll see if I can't find a hobby shop around the Nanuet/southern NY/northern NJ area and do some shopping... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Deerhurst: I believe futaba is still in the game. Probably very expensive still. Lots of folks going Spektrum and FlySky these days. Lots of OEMs doing Spektrum these days. For motors I haven't been in the go fast stuff in ages. Last time I was Hobbywing was starting to take off and Castle was the hot stuff. I believe some of the Spektrum branded ESCs are Hobbywing. At least the ones I've used are but Spektrum locks out the Hobbywing programmers so you have to buy their more expensive one that is the same thing but with their logo on it. I don't know if the re-RC10 will handle but brushless power but you can always tune timing, start power, etc with the new brushless controllers. Castle did "traction control" or "launch control" years ago. I'm sure moredo these days. FlySky has a very nice car Tx. For the motor and ESC look for the Castle. Now I only have a 4x4 crawler type I have been working on You’ll probably want to get a 4X4 or something else eventually so this would be a good radio https://www.amainhobbies.com/flysky-noble-nb4-afhds3-8channel-2.4ghz-radio-system-fsy-noble/p1556281 |
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Originally Posted By JQ66: FlySky has a very nice car Tx. For the motor and ESC look for the Castle. Now I only have a 4x4 crawler type I have been working on You’ll probably want to get a 4X4 or something else eventually so this would be a good radio https://www.amainhobbies.com/flysky-noble-nb4-afhds3-8channel-2.4ghz-radio-system-fsy-noble/p1556281 A GT3b ($40) and flashing it with the Losikid firmware ($20 for hardware?) gives an 8CH radio. As a crawler nutcase myself I have little to no need for more than 4CH. Maybe 6CH. IMHO, unless you must have a $300 radio is a bit excessive, especially from a cheap china company such as flysky. |
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So I went with a Futaba 3PV R304sb radio and receiver set (gives me future options, probably not super useful but better to have the options than not), a Futaba S-U400 (sounds like a Soviet anti-air system ), a Reedy Blackbox SC600-BL2 27018 speed controller, a Reedy 540-SL4 brushless motor, and a Reedy LiPo battery pack and charger. It's going in an RC10 World's Car Repop, so figured I'd stick with all Futaba or Reedy/AE if I could. And of course...after I picked all that up, realized I forgot to pick up a pinion gear Per AE's website, it was the only thing I was missing from their "required to finish the kit" list...so that's coming via Amazon next week.Funny thing - there's no real close RC stores to where I live (about 45 miles west of the Twin Cities, MN)...so while I'm here in NY/NJ I figured I'd hit up a local shop and shop there - I figured hey, I could browse, ask questions, etc. Nope! The store I went to (Nitro Hobbies, in Ramsey NJ) is basically a glass display case with a PC on it, and the guy behind the counter said "Yeah...just choose what you want from the web site and I'll go in back and yank it off the shelves for you" One giant warehouse.15 year old me would have begged for a job there...then again 15 year old me wouldn't have been able to afford any of this shit, so... Also they had a good 5 or 6 boxes of Team AE RC10 Kinwald Edition kits, 8 kits per box, so if you've been jonesing for one...they've got a ton in stock. And that was just what was in front of me; I didn't browse their site for more kits...they've got a ton of shit in. Anyway when I get home in a few days, it'll be fun putting it all together and seeing how badly I lunch it on it's first trip to the backyard I need to trim the body and figure out how to paint it now I guess...that's one thing I've never really tried, is painting a body. I wonder how those old Chenowith SF dune buggies were painted up, maybe I should do that... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By EvoXGunner: For paint I recommend Tamiya PS spray cans. Also some Tamiya masking tape for doing simple designs. For trimming get a good pair of Lexan/Polycarbonate scissors curved and straight. A body reamer for holes. Wash the underside with soap & water before painting. I tried one of those reamers for holes, sucked. Used it to start the hole, but finished it with a step bit in a drill. Used it to chamfer both sides of the body. looks almost professional. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Long story short, I bought an Associated RC10 Worlds Car repro a few years ago when I had some time…built the chassis and ran out of money and time for it Well I’ve got the money and time…but no knowledge anymore. My last RC car I built was circa 1988-1990-ish and the world has clearly moved on. The first car I built was an original RC10 in the mid-late 80s so the car tickles my nostalgia bone Anyway - are Futaba controllers/electronics still the play? I know battery tech has improved massively…is there something I should look for specifically? How about motors? Are 540s still the standard, or…? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/22779/IMG_0470-3549662.jpg Trade me for my 1986 Gold anodized one. It's been in exactly ONE race. Comes with the PG Tx, and a great Rx. All Futaba. Also a like new (orange) Novak electronic speed control. |
"It's a a feature, NOT A BUG! " ~ Stylz
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Fantastic! Need some GreenMachine2 stock motors to go with those Roosters! |
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Sorry Wilson, way too late I've already scarred this one up but good  Quickly discovered that the gutter in front of my house has enough roll to make an awesome jump, but it also bottoms out the front no matter how I set up the front suspension, which swipes off the two rear e-clips on the inner front A-arm pins immediately Not to mention scrapes the nose up pretty good. So I can't use it for jumping, and I have to approach it at an angle so only one wheel at a time hits it at speed. That seems to prevent it from swiping more e-clips off, but it's not perfect either...I've also already bent one of the front nose struts pretty badly and had to beat it back straight since Associated saw it in their infinite wisdom to not repop the repop parts anymore so I can't find black nose struts anywhere...or any of the other World's Car repop specific parts. Fortunately it didn't snap when beating it back (small brass/delrin-faced gunsmith hammer, beating it slowly back flat on a 1911 armoror's block - don't let anyone tell you hobbies can't be mix and match! )...but the front nose plate is pretty clearly lopsided a bit. I probably should disassemble the front and try to straighten it out It's also CLEARLY not meant or designed for back-yard bashing...it does not deal with grass at all with the stock setup; it's pretty clearly designed for clay, astroturf or carpet and not uneven yard/lawn. It's got practically no ground clearance so it'll drag the pan and pick up grass as it goes; if you hit a decent bump it'll bottom out hard. That's WITH the spring collars wound all the way down; you can't move the suspension arms to force more droop in the rear because the rear CVA axles/dogbones aren't long enough so they pop out of the collars in mid-air or over a bump. No one makes longer ones apparently...so you're stuck with whatever AE gave you. I could probably rig some parts together but meh. I've already decided to shelve this one The kit itself was $200 when I got it, the electronics in it could be recovered and used in something else but frankly between the servo, receiver, motor and ESC I'm less than another $200 into the electronics in it...I've got more expensive guns that haven't seen the light of day from the back of the safe in years, so I'm comfortable with putting this on a shelf for only occasional beatings The funny thing is on my old/original one I could make the rears basically extend all the way down as far as the rear a-arms could physically go IIRC, it was perfect for bumpy backyards - it'd still bottom out but not as hard, but it mainly gave you a lot more ground clearance so you're not scraping it over gravel or whatever when you punch the gas and it squats. I also never raced anything - when I was a kid there was no way my dad was going to drag me the hour+ to the nearest track only to spend a half hour or whatever racing, and the only track I know of within like 4 hours driving of me now, closed down apparently at/around covid-time When I got this kit originally the plan was to actually try racing...oh well.Anyway, I've since ordered an RC10B84D Should be here next week. I'll see if I can't clean out a bunch of shit here to make an area presentable and do a build thread on it...I've already been scouring for videos and what not on it, so we'll see how that one goes
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Deerhurst: Even a lowly GT3b (which I do run) has a multi model memory. When running the custom firmware I believe it'll.do 99 model memory. I have three of these that each came with a 5th scale car. Good radios IMO, probably nothing better for $40. I think they have a 3 car memory out of the box. |
I WILL NOT COMPLY
This post may contain factually correct misinformation
This post may contain factually correct misinformation
 
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"It's a a feature, NOT A BUG! " ~ Stylz
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I have a Radio Master similar similar to the one above (which is a knock-off of a Radio Master). But the RM is a little more advanced, has larger memory (can be set for fixed wing, rotary wing, drones, etc, Also any kind of ground vehicle you can imagine, a built-in 5,000 maH battery (IIRC it has some kind of leather cover and a fitted box). I'll probably put t in the EE soon. |
"It's a a feature, NOT A BUG! " ~ Stylz
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That guy. Remove the battery tray and put a small 3s lipo in there with a connector to an external charger and pop the top off and flip the polarizing layer on the display to make it easier to see in the sun. Get the programming board, I have one somewhere, and solder on a header to flash the Losikid firmware for up to 8ch and all sorts of things like crawler channel mixing. |
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Bromingo, the nostalgia in this picture is unreal. My first hobby grade RC was a Traxxas Stampede in 1999 and I saved and saved and upgraded to a Novak Super Rooster and a Speed Gems Sapphire motor. No joke. I wanted the 9T Zircon but the RC shop said that wasn't suitable for a Stampede.
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Bromingo, the nostalgia in this picture is unreal. My first hobby grade RC was a Traxxas Stampede in 1999 and I saved and saved and upgraded to a Novak Super Rooster and a Speed Gems Sapphire motor. No joke. I wanted the 9T Zircon but the RC shop said that wasn't suitable for a Stampede. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Bromingo, the nostalgia in this picture is unreal. My first hobby grade RC was a Traxxas Stampede in 1999 and I saved and saved and upgraded to a Novak Super Rooster and a Speed Gems Sapphire motor. No joke. I wanted the 9T Zircon but the RC shop said that wasn't suitable for a Stampede. @-Obsessed- My story is almost identical, except mine was a Rustler. I always liked Novak's stuff and was pretty bummed when I heard about them closing up shop. I still have my Rustler, though the only thing left stock is probably the body, which I'll never change, just because. Here's a few shots: Old- Attached File Attached File More recent, with all new stuff, set up for high speed runs- Attached File Attached File ETA: Still got one NIB, with all the goodies: Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ss2nv: @-Obsessed- My story is almost identical, except mine was a Rustler. I always liked Novak's stuff and was pretty bummed when I heard about them closing up shop. I still have my Rustler, though the only thing left stock is probably the body, which I'll never change, just because. Here's a few shots: Old- https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/92450/DSC00001_JPG-3582159.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/92450/DSC00004_JPG-3582150.JPG More recent, with all new stuff, set up for high speed runs- https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/92450/DSC_6287_JPG-3582151.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/92450/DSC_6279_JPG-3582153.JPG ETA: Still got one NIB, with all the goodies: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/92450/IMG_9183_jpeg-3582166.JPG Thanks for sharing... That's awesome. So many awesome memories. I don't know if I have any original pics, I'll need to look. |
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Zero nostalgia. Those were before my time, I was a 90s kid.
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I'm using one of those for a Rising Fighter, Grasshopper II (when I build it), Kyosho Rage 2.0 and Sand Master 2. It's a pretty good radio, range isn't as good as a Radiolink, but it has less features, but still has the important stuff. I do have an issue with the channel 3 button and the cheap 3 pack of 2 channel LED light controllers on amazon (they're around $10-12 for 3. Works fine with my radiolink, but that can change the button between latching and momentary. No options on the Flysky. It does work with another brand (can't remember which) led controller. The symptoms are you have to hit the button twice to cycle thru the on/off of the channels, and when you steer, the lights shut off, almost like the controller is mixing channel 3 with 1. Receivers for the FS are also dirt cheap, you can get a 5 pack for about $36 on fleabay. Shorter antenna coax than Radiolink, but a longer antenna portion (the end of coax that has the shield stripped off. They also add a tiny piece of heatshrink to the end, which is nice, Radiolink doesn't do that. Not a big deal tho, if you keep the antenna in a tube, or tucked somewhere safe. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Oh, one little note about radio range, too. The saturation of 2.4GHz everything (wifi, bluetooth, etc), AC electrical wires overhead, and other radio transmitters really cuts down on the range. I knew my neighborhood was kinda noisy, with a bunch of QRM. I hear it a lot with AM receivers (in multiple bands, including MW, and even the upper end of the SW spectrum) and even FM VHF and UHF gets interfered with. It really wreaks havoc on my Flysky receivers. I brought my Sand Master out to Moscow (PA) this weekend, and never lost control of it, even driving it at the end of my "ok, where is this damn thing pointed?" vision. All underground wiring, newer neighborhood, and way more expensive houses. The Radiolink seems to work better in my area, could just be better quality components, or a better tuned antenna section on the end of the coax. They both have similar antennas on the transmitters. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By Dopple: Oh, one little note about radio range, too. The saturation of 2.4GHz everything (wifi, bluetooth, etc), AC electrical wires overhead, and other radio transmitters really cuts down on the range. I knew my neighborhood was kinda noisy, with a bunch of QRM. I hear it a lot with AM receivers (in multiple bands, including MW, and even the upper end of the SW spectrum) and even FM VHF and UHF gets interfered with. It really wreaks havoc on my Flysky receivers. I brought my Sand Master out to Moscow (PA) this weekend, and never lost control of it, even driving it at the end of my "ok, where is this damn thing pointed?" vision. All underground wiring, newer neighborhood, and way more expensive houses. The Radiolink seems to work better in my area, could just be better quality components, or a better tuned antenna section on the end of the coax. They both have similar antennas on the transmitters. I slapped a 4w 2.4ghz booster on my Noble NB4 for speed running. I lose sight before range.
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I like my Glocks like I like my women; 19, hard bodied, and in my pants. - NY_Shooter
NorCal Callsign: Hooligan
NorCal Callsign: Hooligan
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On Monday, I modded my Flysky GT-3B. Swapped out the linear 5v regulator for a buck converter, and added the pin header for when I install the open source firmware to give me more control over it. The VR swap should yield about 50% better battery life, and I can run the 8AA's down to a lower voltage once I mod the firmware, as it starts beeping at 9.4v, which seems dumb, as the VR doesn't need that much to supply 5V to the circuits. Might set it for 6V so I have a little buffer to change batteries. Sure, I could go Lipo, but I have so many AA's in the house, and I can just keep an extra set with me. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By EvoXGunner: @TotalUnRecall Which one are you using? I need to get one for my NB4 as well. THIS is the one I'm using. I got it cheaper awhile back for obvious reasons. Just cut the power cable and run it off a 3s pack. ETA: Takes some modding of the NB4 though. Need a u.fl to SMA cable also. |
I like my Glocks like I like my women; 19, hard bodied, and in my pants. - NY_Shooter
NorCal Callsign: Hooligan
NorCal Callsign: Hooligan
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Originally Posted By TotalUnRecall: THIS is the one I'm using. I got it cheaper awhile back for obvious reasons. Just cut the power cable and run it off a 3s pack. ETA: Takes some modding of the NB4 though. Need a u.fl to SMA cable also. Damn. That looks like more trouble than what I'm down for. Was trying to avoid having to break open the case and solder shit to the board. I'm thinking the Soarsky booster might be the way to go but I'd have to upgrade to the NB4+. |
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Originally Posted By EvoXGunner: Damn. That looks like more trouble than what I'm down for. Was trying to avoid having to break open the case and solder shit to the board. I'm thinking the Soarsky booster might be the way to go but I'd have to upgrade to the NB4+. There's no soldering involved but you do have to break open the radio. It's not hard really but you have to be careful and take your time. You need to unplug the built in antenna and plug in the u.fl to SMA otherwise there's nothing to plug the booster into. I'm pretty sure the NB4+ is the same. |
I like my Glocks like I like my women; 19, hard bodied, and in my pants. - NY_Shooter
NorCal Callsign: Hooligan
NorCal Callsign: Hooligan
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brushless motors and lipo batteries are all anyone runs these days. for that relic I would stick with a 25 turn motor. hobbywing ESC and whatever servo it takes. I am mostly in crawlers these days so my servos are largely direct 3s or 4s powered and 700+ In-Oz monsters. not sure what's what in buggy servos. I ran a shiftrcs RRS in my onroad cars. probably overkill for that. Edit: you do realize buggies are made for groomed indoor tracks where traction is so good people run slicks and tires actually squeal on corners. that B8 you ordered is even more high strung. very much not a back yard basher. for that i would stick with Arrma or Traxxas. at the very least get a truck with larger tires |
callmenoshie: "saying that females have the potential to be "bat shit crazy" is like saying the sky has the potential to be blue."
XCRmonger: "I've seen German Shit Porn that was sexier."
XCRmonger: "I've seen German Shit Porn that was sexier."
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Originally Posted By slappomatt: brushless motors and lipo batteries are all anyone runs these days. for that relic I would stick with a 25 turn motor. hobbywing ESC and whatever servo it takes. I am mostly in crawlers these days so my servos are largely direct 3s or 4s powered and 700+ In-Oz monsters. not sure what's what in buggy servos. I ran a shiftrcs RRS in my onroad cars. probably overkill for that. Edit: you do realize buggies are made for groomed indoor tracks where traction is so good people run slicks and tires actually squeal on corners. that B8 you ordered is even more high strung. very much not a back yard basher. for that i would stick with Arrma or Traxxas. at the very least get a truck with larger tires I'm still running the Retro Sport motors from Holmes Hobbies in my Tamiya DT-03 and TT-02B. Currently 19 and 17T, but got a pair of 15T to install in both cars. Will be doing the all metal gear upgrade on the TT-02B when I do the motor, along with fluid filled diffs, I have all the parts, just need the time to do it. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By TotalUnRecall: There's no soldering involved but you do have to break open the radio. It's not hard really but you have to be careful and take your time. You need to unplug the built in antenna and plug in the u.fl to SMA otherwise there's nothing to plug the booster into. I'm pretty sure the NB4+ is the same. Just ordered the plus version. Might use my regular one as a trial/test mule and see how it goes and then add a booster to the new one as well. |