OFFICIAL Post NFA 3D Printing Thread (Page 1 of 6)
Posted: 8/13/2026 3:11:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ChandlerKJ][Edited]
| I have zero experience with 3D printing. There are many applications I can think of that have interested me pursuing but I have never taken the plunge. Many outside of this space. I'd love to hear from folks with experience 3D printing, with extra emphasis on the historic events that have just taken place. Printers, materials, where to start, examples etc. |
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Bambu Labs printers and ecosystem is tough to beat - I have a P1S with the AMS and the fact that it just works is still amazing to me. We have almost 3k hours on our machine now. Picked up an A1mini for my oldest son so he wouldn’t hold the P1S all day making small stuff. That being said, I feel like the real value for people entering into 3D printing is the software and ecosystem Bambu offers. If you find a file online you want to print it offers you enough features to make it successful without offering SO many features that you can never figure it out. If you want to print a Christmas door stopper? Someone probably already designed it - you go to the Bambu app and just hit print. Dyson vacuum attachments? Hit print. Milwaukee battery holder? Already dozens of options to choose from. Of course, if you have the ability to model your own 3D cad. It’s amazing having a printer |
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Failed with a little over an hour to go. Broke free of the plate. Need to add some external supports to the print. All a part of the learning process. 
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"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Failed with a little over an hour to go. Broke free of the plate. Need to add some external supports to the print. All a part of the learning process. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3711-3810763.jpg Use a bed adhesive. I take a glue stick and dissolve it in a spray bottle of 99% iso, give the print bed a light spray and stuff sticks better AND releases better. |
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Failed with a little over an hour to go. Broke free of the plate. Need to add some external supports to the print. All a part of the learning process. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3711-3810763.jpg Shit! Where do you find the files for these things? Could I download it now and save it for the day I buy a 3d printer? |
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Originally Posted By Hking: Use a bed adhesive. I take a glue stick and dissolve it in a spray bottle of 99% iso, give the print bed a light spray and stuff sticks better AND releases better. PA6-CF, 6% RH, 100 degree bed, 50 degree chamber. May try again with the engineering plate, glue and adding a couple supports. Think I'll add a little more width and another layer to the brim as well. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Vne: Shit! Where do you find the files for these things? Could I download it now and save it for the day I buy a 3d printer? Most current files are FTN.5.1 Just Google it. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Halfway done with a FTN.5 Flow. Bambu Lab P2S. PA6-CF fiber 0.6 Hot End https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3710-3810718.jpg I always seem to find GF not CF. Will that work as well? |
"My battery is low and it's getting dark."
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Originally Posted By Hking: Use a bed adhesive. I take a glue stick and dissolve it in a spray bottle of 99% iso, give the print bed a light spray and stuff sticks better AND releases better. That's an interesting idea. I just use glue sticks (25 cents for a 2-pack at Walmart), but sometimes it's tough to get smooth, and small lumps can impact first layer quality. I like the idea of a thinner, spray-on coating... 🤔 |
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Originally Posted By Hking: Use a bed adhesive. I take a glue stick and dissolve it in a spray bottle of 99% iso, give the print bed a light spray and stuff sticks better AND releases better. Originally Posted By Xyster7212: That's an interesting idea. I just use glue sticks (25 cents for a 2-pack at Walmart), but sometimes it's tough to get smooth, and small lumps can impact first layer quality. I like the idea of a thinner, spray-on coating... 🤔 I always used hair spray. Like aquanet high hold. |
I'm not doing shit with mine until I get it fixed.  Attached File Edit: I got off light as i only needed to order a $15 fan assembly. I have a spare hot end though it's the original one and not the upgraded one that I got for preordering my printer when I purchased it nearly 2 years ago. I'll see how the original one works. |
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Originally Posted By Alien: I'm not doing shit with mine until I get it fixed. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23358/1000024281_jpg-3810785.JPG Did you forget to tell it to extrude to the plate? 
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"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Alien: I'm not doing shit with mine until I get it fixed. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23358/1000024281_jpg-3810785.JPG looks clogged.
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Originally Posted By Cobra-Commander: Not even remotely. They are made for the masses that just want something that works and doesn't require much tinkering. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Toasted: Is Bambu the best? They are the easiest and most user friendly to use out of the box, and do a pretty damn good job, but they are not the best out there. There are also some concerns about how they are locking down firmware on devices, potentially not allowing 3rd party slicers/control, and how they handle data. |
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Failed with a little over an hour to go. Broke free of the plate. Need to add some external supports to the print. All a part of the learning process. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3711-3810763.jpg I'm printing the spiral version of the same can. Unfortunately I ran out of filament overnight and only made it to about 70%. Got a new print started already. For CF filaments I always wash my bed plate with dish soap, wipe it with ISO to remove any fingerprint oils when I install the plate, then use a glue stick. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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I am running PA6-GF, I get really good results with it for mechanical parts. We will see how it performs, it prints a bit easier compared to carbon fiber reinforced. I use an AMS-HT so it stays bone dry. Also with PA6 materials you should anneal them in an oven for maximum strength. Don't forget to do that. Who has the best price on PA6-GF? |
How do you do?
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Originally Posted By Firearmsenthusiast: I am running PA6-GF, I get really good results with it for mechanical parts. We will see how it performs, it prints a bit easier compared to carbon fiber reinforced. I use an AMS-HT so it stays bone dry. Also with PA6 materials you should annual them in an oven for maximum strength. Don't forget to do that. Who has the best price on PA6-GF? |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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DB Alloy 9mm with FTN4.5 printed PCC suppressor Attached File |
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Originally Posted By nottooslow: looks clogged. Originally Posted By nottooslow: Originally Posted By Alien: I'm not doing shit with mine until I get it fixed. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23358/1000024281_jpg-3810785.JPG looks clogged. I got off light as i only needed to order a $15 fan assembly. I have a spare hot end though it's the original one and not the upgraded one that I got for preordering my printer when I purchased it nearly 2 years ago. I'll see how the original one works. |
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
Joined:
Oct 2013
Posts:
41806
EE: 100% (120)
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By Sputnik556: I don’t know squat but I’m about to pull the trigger on a P1S, what kind of filament should I buy? PA6-CF or PA6-GF PA6 is a Nylon base. CF is carbon fiber reinforced. GF is glass fiber reinforced. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
Joined:
Oct 2013
Posts:
41807
EE: 100% (120)
KY, USA
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Originally Posted By HillaryClinton: PA6-CF or PA6-GF PA6 is a Nylon base. CF is carbon fiber reinforced. GF is glass fiber reinforced. Originally Posted By HillaryClinton: Originally Posted By Sputnik556: I don’t know squat but I’m about to pull the trigger on a P1S, what kind of filament should I buy? PA6-CF or PA6-GF PA6 is a Nylon base. CF is carbon fiber reinforced. GF is glass fiber reinforced. Thanks ,I was really hoping I wouldn’t have to order it, oh well. 3D printer won’t go brrrr tonight. |
If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
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Originally Posted By Alien: I'm not doing shit with mine until I get it fixed. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/23358/1000024281_jpg-3810785.JPG Edit: I got off light as i only needed to order a $15 fan assembly. I have a spare hot end though it's the original one and not the upgraded one that I got for preordering my printer when I purchased it nearly 2 years ago. I'll see how the original one works. The front fell off. OST |
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Originally Posted By ChandlerKJ: I have zero experience with 3D printing. There are many applications I can think of that have interested me pursuing but I have never taken the plunge. Many outside of this space. I'd love to hear from folks with experience 3D printing, with extra emphasis on the historic events that have just taken place. Printers, materials, where to start, examples etc. A few things to remember: * The ruling doesn't apply to *everyone*. You have to be in one of the groups - a customer of silencershop, a member of the GOA, or tied to the Jensen group. Furthermore, just which rules were voided depends on which group you belong to. * The requirements for model/serial/name/location haven't been voided at all. |
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Originally Posted By panthermark: LOL I have an old Ender 3 that i got 5 years ago. I just recently broke it out again. In 5 years I think I've printed a total of 3 dogs and 1 cat. I need to give it this thing a workout. https://i.imgur.com/g1pn1LX.jpeg Attached File |
The government is just a corporation with a monopoly on violence.
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: Failed with a little over an hour to go. Broke free of the plate. Need to add some external supports to the print. All a part of the learning process. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/102931/3711-3810763.jpg I'll typically wait for the brim to print then secure the brim with masking tape in all 4 directions. |
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If this is your first printer, pick up a couple spools of pla to learn with stuff of maker world. Best to start with tools and upgrades then move on to fun stuff or useful items. Do not jump straight into carbon fiber filament. Will you be picking up an AMS unit? PA6-CF is very hydroscopic and needs to be dried. Bambu AMS break down: AMS (original) - No Drying Capability AMS 2 Pro - Dryer rated to max temp of 65C AMS HT- Dryer rated to max temp of 85C AMS 2 Pro will take a long time to dry PA6-CF. Higher temp of the AMS HT will cut that time down by a lot. Note- AMS 2 Pro with hold and.feed.from 4 spools of filament. The AMS HT only holds and feed one spool only. And to be honest, the P1S will do the job but you would be better off getting the X2D. Much more capable machine. At the least, if you cant swing the X2D, go with the P2S. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By TheRX7Project: I'll typically wait for the brim to print then secure the brim with masking tape in all 4 directions. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By VacaDuck: If this is your first printer, pick up a couple spools of pla to learn with stuff of maker world. Best to start with tools and upgrades then move on to fun stuff or useful items. Do not jump straight into carbon fiber filament. Will you be picking up an AMS unit? PA6-CF is very hydroscopic and needs to be dried. Bambu AMS break down: AMS (original) - No Drying Capability AMS 2 Pro - Dryer rated to max temp of 65C AMS HT- Dryer rated to max temp of 85C AMS 2 Pro will take a long time to dry PA6-CF. Higher temp of the AMS HT will cut that time down by a lot. Note- AMS 2 Pro with hold and.feed.from 4 spools of filament. The AMS HT only holds and feed one spool only. And to be honest, the P1S will do the job but you would be better off getting the X2D. Much more capable machine. At the least, if you cant swing the X2D, go with the P2S. How many spools will a suppressor usually take to complete? |
"Life is Hard, its Harder if You're Stupid" - John Wayne
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Originally Posted By laxman09: How many spools will a suppressor usually take to complete? Originally Posted By laxman09: Originally Posted By VacaDuck: If this is your first printer, pick up a couple spools of pla to learn with stuff of maker world. Best to start with tools and upgrades then move on to fun stuff or useful items. Do not jump straight into carbon fiber filament. Will you be picking up an AMS unit? PA6-CF is very hydroscopic and needs to be dried. Bambu AMS break down: AMS (original) - No Drying Capability AMS 2 Pro - Dryer rated to max temp of 65C AMS HT- Dryer rated to max temp of 85C AMS 2 Pro will take a long time to dry PA6-CF. Higher temp of the AMS HT will cut that time down by a lot. Note- AMS 2 Pro with hold and.feed.from 4 spools of filament. The AMS HT only holds and feed one spool only. And to be honest, the P1S will do the job but you would be better off getting the X2D. Much more capable machine. At the least, if you cant swing the X2D, go with the P2S. How many spools will a suppressor usually take to complete? Less than one. My current 22LR suppressor is taking 203g, a spool is normally 1kg (1000g). |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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Originally Posted By laxman09: How many spools will a suppressor usually take to complete? The one I am printing now, for a 9mm pcc, will use roughly 210 grams or about 1/5 of a 1000 gram spool. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By panthermark: LOL I have an old Ender 3 that i got 5 years ago. I just recently broke it out again. In 5 years I think I've printed a total of 3 dogs and 1 cat. I need to give it this thing a workout. https://i.imgur.com/g1pn1LX.jpeg Put that inside a plywood enclosure to keep the heat in and that little printer will do a lot more than you think it can - we have one setup for ABS that's still going fine with many, many hours on it. |
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I hadn't paid attention when slicing the file with the brim/speed changes, but the stock 8.5 hour print jumped to 19 hours. Lol! |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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I will warn that it's going to be a bit of a learning curve for anyone wanting to just jump into printing 2A stuff. These are not quite appliance level things, you will need to read and learn, do some testing and trial and error prints to dial in your machine and the filament. In the 3D2A space, it's usually recommended that you test and learn on little trinkets and calibration prints first before you get into real functional parts. And for cans, the better filaments to use like PA6-CF/GF, PPA-CF, and other nylon types all have important considerations for needing a printer that can heat to at least 300C at the nozzle, and you need equipment to toughly dry the spool of nylon BEFORE you print, or else you'll just get a mess. Nylon is very hydroscopic, and if "wet" filament goes through the extruder in a printer, it comes out as a foam because the water flash boils. The main take away in all this, if you want to get into 3D printing to make your own cans and gun frames, understand it's going to be a new hobby and require work on your part to dial things in. It's not a "buy this, download this file, press a button and you're done" kind of thing.
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