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8/10/2026 11:45:19 AM EDT
Most of the angle valves in my home (sinks and toilets) are corroded due to hard water.  Many barely turn, and most trickle water.  I just swapped out toilet internals on one bathroom and at max flow the toilet fills in about 15 (!) minutes.

Plumber came out for a larger job and told me it would be $200 per valve if his company did it, make a very strong inference that I do it myself.

Went on amazon for research mostly, as I'm not sure a $40 10 pack of chinese parts is exactly what I need, and ran into various pipe and hose sizes, along with compression style fittings and other differences.

Not sure precisely what I need.  Based on the pics attached, can anyone give any guidance?  Thanks.
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8/10/2026 1:24:28 PM EDT
[#1]
Replace with the quarter turn valves, they are like a ball valve and are much better.
8/10/2026 2:22:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PNFLDS][Edited] [#2]
I would start here:



https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/plumbing-installation-repair/supply-valves/brasscraft-reg-5-8-od-compression-x-3-8-od-compression-1-4-turn-angle-valve/g2cr19xc1/p-1467331029123-c-9415.htm
8/10/2026 3:41:08 PM EDT
[#3]
I replaced twelve at my house with the Sharkbite brand compression 1/4 turns and they are good to go.
8/10/2026 4:35:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: progkiller][Edited] [#4]
If you get lucky, the new compression angle stops you'll buy will work with the existing nut and ferrule. Otherwise you'll have to ditch the nut, ferrule ,and the escutcheon.  At that point you'll be going into the wall unless that stubbed out piece of 1/2" copper is loose enough to pull out so you can cut it off behind the nut and start over.

After you remove the old valve and if the new valve will thread, be sure to clean it up good, and use a small amount of pipe dope behind the nut. Also check that the ferrule was not crushed short of the tubing being fully inserted into the valve.

Lastly, be sure to hold back on the new valve as you tighten down the nut.
8/10/2026 4:53:51 PM EDT
[#5]
Those stub outs look a little too short for easy replacement.

Me personally I would turn off the water main, get a small 1gal bucket to fit under the shut offs. Remove them. Use a compression ring puller to remove old parts.

Compression ring ouller

Then I would cut off the damaged pipe with a pipe cutter. And sweat on a copper union and new copper stub out with some extra length on it for future repairs. If you can find them there copper stub out repair pieces that fit inside the 1/2” copper and you sweat them on without a union and it keeps the od of the copper consistent so the escutcheon still fits. Be sure to debur the inside and outside of all the copper pipes to not reduce the water flow.

I would absolutely not use valves off Amazon. Buy brass craft. You can go back with the simple1/4 turn  1/2” copper compression fit like you had, or I would use 1/4 turn brass craft 1/2” push connects. 3/8” outlet for the bathroom faucets and toilet are typical, but some faucets use 1/2” hoses, 3/8 to 1/2” adapters if needed are readily available. Push connects are easy to change out if needing a future replacement, but also slightly greater chance of total
Failure vs compression rings. I pretty much exclusively use push connects now when I’m doing replacements
8/10/2026 9:31:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AeroE][Edited] [#6]
Originally Posted By tucansam:
Most of the angle valves in my home (sinks and toilets) are corroded due to hard water.  Many barely turn, and most trickle water.  I just swapped out toilet internals on one bathroom and at max flow the toilet fills in about 15 (!) minutes.

Plumber came out for a larger job and told me it would be $200 per valve if his company did it, make a very strong inference that I do it myself.

Went on amazon for research mostly, as I'm not sure a $40 10 pack of chinese parts is exactly what I need, and ran into various pipe and hose sizes, along with compression style fittings and other differences.

Not sure precisely what I need.  Based on the pics attached, can anyone give any guidance?  Thanks.
https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/49544/1000048738_jpg-3809133.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/49544/1000048739_jpg-3809134.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/49544/1000048741_jpg-3809135.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/49544/1000048742_jpg-3809136.JPG
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These are compression ring valves.  Easy to change to quarter turns, except you're hurting for copper pipe length remaining.

Once the valve is removed, as carefully as possible remove the compression ring from the copper tube.  Trim as close to the end as possible, clean up the exposed pipe with a scotchbrite pad or sandpaper, deburr the end (inside and out), then install a new valve.

I doubt there is enough pipe sticking out for a Sharkbite valve, and I won't install them anyway, despite the temptation.

Home Depot carries Brasscraft valves here.

Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
8/12/2026 8:14:34 AM EDT
[#7]
Thanks to all.
.
8/12/2026 9:16:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: abnk][Edited] [#8]
I had similar thread last year.  After many recommendations, I chose Dahl and I'm very happy with their fit, finish, and performance.  US-made IIRC.  Here's the exact model I went with to give you a visual.
"Do not overthink it, gentlemen. It's only a gunfight, not an IRS tax audit." - Louis Awerbuck
8/27/2026 8:26:43 PM EDT
[#9]
Buy a compression ring puller.

Buy Dahl valves from Supplyhouse.com or on ebay.

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