Posted: 2/1/2025 5:33:17 PM EDT
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I did today,on a table saw. Cutting a board on the short side using the fence, I know better than to do it that way but it was only one cut, famous last words right  Did NOT get hurt, maybe my pride. Was using a push stick so my hand was out of the way. Be careful out there, the machine will win and it happens insanely fast. |
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Chopsaw cutting aluminum with a metal cutting blade. Didn't clamp angle in the fence, holding with hand. Vibration made blade walk then the blade hung up. Rang my hand pretty dang good. That was a 10" Years later cutting a piece of wood in a 12" miter saw. Didn't get hurt but ripped the blade open and bent the fence on the saw. |
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I made a "lathe" attachment for my tablesaw once. Threw the whole thing into the back wall of the shop. Was half expecting it, so yeah, I was not in the line of fire and nothing got hurt. Definitely exciting tho. |
Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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Not on a tablesaw. Our 7 and 10hp Northfield TS's have feeders. Properly adjusted they will bog the saw down and trip the breaker before any material comes back at you. Now climb feeding on the 7hp shaper I've had a couple pieces fly across the shop. But I don't think that qualifies as a "kickback". 
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A couple of times but no injuries. They make a solution for end cuts on a table saw...  Now I keep a T-guide attached to the saw base at all times. No fence and a T-guide = no drama. |
"A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition" - Rudyard Kipling
| Polishing a 12" bowie knife on a 1.5 horsepower buffer and the blade got caught bounced off the table and hit me between the eyes. Fortunately, I was wearing glasses, eye goggles, and a face shield. I put down the blade for the rest of the day. Glad I had all that safety stuff on. |
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Originally Posted By JPH2: I did today,on a table saw. Cutting a board on the short side using the fence, I know better than to do it that way but it was only one cut, famous last words right Did NOT get hurt, maybe my pride. Was using a push stick so my hand was out of the way. Be careful out there, the machine will win and it happens insanely fast. Ages ago. Was doing everything right and it kicked back on me. Pulled my hands in to my chest and counted fingers afterward. I had the cut from the sawblade across 3 fingers/knuckles on my left hand just deep enough to see but not enough to draw more than a drop of blood. I was done for the day. |
You must play the game. You can't win. You can't break even. You can't quit the game.
| Yes, was ripping a board and the thin off cut flew back and went through a 5mm thick piece of Luan plywood a few feet being the saw. I was out of the line of fire so no injury just a moment of amazement at how fast it flew back. That was on a Hitachi C10FL saw and it didn't have a riving knife and no guard was in place of course. |
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I had one yesterday while ripping 1/2" strips to use for trim. I was standing to the side because I always anticipate the possibility of it. The launched piece hit the edge of the table behind the saw, but no harm done. On subsequent cuts I used my Grrrripper with the 1/4" leg to push with and didn't have any more issues. I should have used a thin rip jig. |
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| I had an older table saw I wasn’t using at the time so I gave it to my FIL. He gave it back several years latter but had removed the riving knife, kick back pawls, and blade guard. He had no idea where they were. I was not impressed but really needed to rip a couple 2x4’s so used it anyway. It threw a chunk back so hard I thought my arm was broke. It went out on the curb the next day. |
When your state is shaped like a huge, droopy penis, you have to expect there to be some huge nuts as well.
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Mech 2007
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My house is only 15 ft off a state road that gets pretty busy at drive times. Was in the basement slicing a bunch of 3/8 inch strips off of a hardwood plank about 12 feet long. I know better but was cutting against the fence with a pusher. I was feeling pretty good and had cut the 5 or 6 strips I needed for the job at hand but decided to cut a couple of extras while I had the saw setup. Last one dropped and grabbed , at least I was standing to the side. It blew thru a solid wood garage door , crossed the busy state highway at about belt level and stuck into the steep bank across the street about 3' |
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Originally Posted By nhsport: It blew thru a solid wood garage door , crossed the busy state highway at about belt level and stuck into the steep bank across the street about 3' I got some big ass shapers AND table saws with way more than 'harry homeowner' motors on them and not a single one can do shit like you describe even IF I tried my bestest to get them to do it... 3' into the dirt, 'across the street', AFTER going through the solid wood garage door...  FYI - This is level 4AA+, 3/4" thick, muti-ply, poly (conversion) coated, carbo monosodium glutimate armor plating.  That girl is safe regardless of how retarded any guy might be behind one of my table saws (or shapers) |
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Twice. I was lucky (and stupid) both times. First time was in 1998 or so on my first table saw, a Flight-1 DeWalt Jobsite Saw. I was stupid and decided to cut a ¾" by ¾" strip off a piece of plywood with the desired piece between the blade and the fence. Like I said, I was stupid. As I moved the larger offcut to the left, the ¾" square piece (about 24" long) came rocketing back off the table saw in a flash. Fortunately, I had learned enough from Norm Abram NOT to stand directly behind the blade, and it sailed past my right hip, flew about 8 feet, and put a nice dent in my washing machine. I reckon it's still there assuming the demon ex-wife hasn't replaced it. The second time was in 2006 on a Delta Contractor saw. I don't remember exactly what happened, but a piece maybe 2" x 1" and a foot long came back at me. This time, I wasn't off to one side enough and it caught me in the abdomen. No injury, thank God, but the next day I had one hell of a bruise all over my belly. A few years back I was using my SawStop Contractor saw to make a crosscut on something when BAM.... the blade vanished and the saw got real quiet. I stood there in shock staring down at where the blade had been, and didn't move a muscle for a good minute. Once my brain was back in gear, I determined that the saw had not detected ME. Instead, it had touched the aluminum mitre gauge I was using and had failed to adjust so it was out of the way of the blade (DUH!). It's an Incra, and the only damage to it was the gold agonizing was removed from a tiny little scratch made by the blade. My wife later said that when I walked into the house about 30 minutes later, I was still so pale she thought something was happening to me. I ended up making a clock out of the blade embedded in the SawStop cartridge assembly. It hangs in my garage shop so I never forget. Needless to say, I am MUCH more careful around my table saw these days... |
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Originally Posted By Zaphod: In my case, my wife said, "I don't care what it costs. You either get a SawStop or you're not doing any woodworking." "Yes, dear..."  They appear to be really nice saws, even aside from the whiz bang safety feature. Bear in mind... you can still get kickbacks just fine with sawstop saws. But its hard to really disagree with her sentiment. Tablesaws are about the most dangerous tool in the shop, especially for a newcomer. I was kind of keen to maybe get a new non-sawstop saw with similar tech... but that won't be happening any time soon. Patent shenanigans continue unabated... |
Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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I’ve had a couple of bad ones. 5hp cabinet saw One was a 1” thick cutting piece of walnut. 1”x1”x4” piece ejected and hit me in the hip. Hurt like a SOB The other was a piece of hard maple. 1.5” thick 3” wide 12” long. At the old house. I had 6 ft to the garage door. Door was open. 32 ft drive way. It made it across the street into my neighbors garage. Scared the shit out of him more than me. He’d been drinking all day. |
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Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Bear in mind... you can still get kickbacks just fine with sawstop saws. Oh, yeah. No doubt. This is also why I'm planning to use the blade guard (which brings the anti-kickback palls with it) at all possible times, as well as for additional dust control. On my two times, the blade guards were missing. See a pattern?
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Never had it happen. Been woodworking for over 40 years. Half that was on Cabinets saws with no blade guards or riving knife. Last 20 years have been with slider so rip cuts are done on sliding table to the left. Much safer. Having said that, I did once cut some aluminum angle on a chop saw where it grabbed and slammed my fingers against fence, breaking two finger tips. That was unpleasant and 100% my fault for treating metal like wood. They are not the same. I won't do that again. LOL!!! |
Behave Yourself
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I know of a case where a guy was killed by a kickback like those described here. He was using a table saw at work. Kickback sent the board into his gut/belly. 4 hours later he passed out. Turns out he ruptured a pipe internally and bled out. Be careful boys! |
Bro, I stayed in the Marines for 26 years and been to cola warrior like 10 times, I'm all about bad decisions. -HDLS
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Nothing major but 2 years ago I was cutting some some steel with a cut off wheel on a small grinder outside my shop. I had shorts on and decided to stop before I got started and change into pants before cutting. I changed and started cutting and about 10 seconds in the cutting wheel completely grenades and one piece hits me right in the leg. It cut through the denim but barely touched my skin. It hurt like a motherfuc*** and I thought it cut right into me. I had a bruise for a month or so. Damn glad I put on some.tough denim pants or I would of been screwed. |
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Originally Posted By Zaphod: Oh, yeah. No doubt. This is also why I'm planning to use the blade guard (which brings the anti-kickback palls with it) at all possible times, as well as for additional dust control. On my two times, the blade guards were missing. See a pattern? Originally Posted By Zaphod: Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Bear in mind... you can still get kickbacks just fine with sawstop saws. Oh, yeah. No doubt. This is also why I'm planning to use the blade guard (which brings the anti-kickback palls with it) at all possible times, as well as for additional dust control. On my two times, the blade guards were missing. See a pattern? Yeah. People poo-poo the blade guards but they absolutely serve a good purpose. Good saw design, imo, would emphasize making it incredibly fast and easy to remove and re-install the blade guard. |
Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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I had the dogs fail to catch wood when I was unwisely ripping on my dad’s Sears radial arm saw. I forgot what I was working on but I was ripping a 4 foot 2x8”or 1x8” pine board. Put a deep dent in the 1950’s thick steel beer/deer primal garage fridge. I never ever attempted to rip on a radial arm saw again. |
The only hyphenated names I like are cartridge names......30-06, 30-40, 38-55 etc.
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Wife: " Let me know when I have to post the orange diamond #4 signs on the house."
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Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Yeah. People poo-poo the blade guards but they absolutely serve a good purpose. Good saw design, imo, would emphasize making it incredibly fast and easy to remove and re-install the blade guard. Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Originally Posted By Zaphod: Originally Posted By 1Andy2: Bear in mind... you can still get kickbacks just fine with sawstop saws. Oh, yeah. No doubt. This is also why I'm planning to use the blade guard (which brings the anti-kickback palls with it) at all possible times, as well as for additional dust control. On my two times, the blade guards were missing. See a pattern? Yeah. People poo-poo the blade guards but they absolutely serve a good purpose. Good saw design, imo, would emphasize making it incredibly fast and easy to remove and re-install the blade guard. I have a "new" Unisaw, the one they introduced around 2010 or so, with the crank wheels both up front. The blade guard is SUPER fast and easy to install and take off. The huge problem with it is, anything over 1-3/4" and it's useless. The diecast body that attaches to the riving knife is bulky and as a result, the thicker wood hits it and won't advance. I would love to be able to use it every time I'm ripping lumber but often times I can't. Great idea, poor execution in this case, sadly. |
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Had a nice little one cutting a full sheet of OSB on the table saw. 1/2 (meaning 7/16) Material had enough flex and I was making a large enough cut that the edge slipped below fence allowing uncut material to rotate over the backside of the blade. Nailed me right in the pelvis about 2 inches above my wing wang. |
Never confuse faith that you will prevail in the end—which you can never afford to lose—with the discipline to confront the most brutal facts of your current reality, whatever they might be. - Adm James Stockdale
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I use a table saw daily, and teach how to use the T saw. Some keys to eliminate kickback are: square fence to the blade, sharp blade, wax the cast iron table top so your material slides across. Also, we tend to not push the material into the fence as we are cutting and let the material wonder away so its no longer parallel to the blade pitching the kerf. |