Kayfun micro coil build tutorial (pic heavy) (Page 6 of 7)
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Ive finally mastered top-filling my KFL.
-Cover airhole with your finger and keep it there. -Unscrew top. -Fill. -Screw top on for a few threads. -Flip upside down. -Let juice fall to top (which is now on the bottom). -Let finger off airhole. -Tighten top all the way. -Keep upside down for a few more seconds. -Done. Im not sure what parts are absolutely necessary, but if I dont do it just like that, in that exact order, I get leaks. Doing it that way, I get zero leaks. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Ive finally mastered top-filling my KFL. -Cover airhole with your finger and keep it there. -Unscrew top. -Fill. -Screw top on for a few threads. -Flip upside down. -Let juice fall to top (which is now on the bottom). -Let finger off airhole. -Tighten top all the way. -Keep upside down for a few more seconds. -Done. Im not sure what parts are absolutely necessary, but if I dont do it just like that, in that exact order, I get leaks. Doing it that way, I get zero leaks. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Just how I do it too. Only thing to add to that is dont fill too slow or you can get some gurgling. I think this one will have to get set aside. |
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Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? I attach mine to my VTR and build it. It has ohm readings and works fine. |
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Originally Posted By fmkenner:
I attach mine to my VTR and build it. It has ohm readings and works fine. Originally Posted By fmkenner:
Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? I attach mine to my VTR and build it. It has ohm readings and works fine. Good news. I obviously don't have a clue what I'm doing but I just placed dibs on a Kayfun Mini in the EE so I'd like to be ready to go when it comes. How often will I be rebuilding/replacing coils and wicks if I'm using 28g Kanthal running at around 1.6ohms? |
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Originally Posted By Towely:
Good news. I obviously don't have a clue what I'm doing but I just placed dibs on a Kayfun Mini in the EE so I'd like to be ready to go when it comes. How often will I be rebuilding/replacing coils and wicks if I'm using 28g Kanthal running at around 1.6ohms? Originally Posted By Towely:
Originally Posted By fmkenner:
Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? I attach mine to my VTR and build it. It has ohm readings and works fine. Good news. I obviously don't have a clue what I'm doing but I just placed dibs on a Kayfun Mini in the EE so I'd like to be ready to go when it comes. How often will I be rebuilding/replacing coils and wicks if I'm using 28g Kanthal running at around 1.6ohms? Truthfully I'm not sure, I'm kind of new too. I know coil building lasts longer, tastes better, and cheaper. |
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Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? Yes, but don't actually be firing when you touch the coil with your metal tweezer/needle nose. |
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Yes, but don't actually be firing when you touch the coil with your metal tweezer/needle nose. Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? Yes, but don't actually be firing when you touch the coil with your metal tweezer/needle nose. The video posted right after the OP has this process... Good vid to watch. Between this thread and that vid is how I learned to wrap coils and do my builds. Thanks again Keith. |
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Yes, but don't actually be firing when you touch the coil with your metal tweezer/needle nose. Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? Yes, but don't actually be firing when you touch the coil with your metal tweezer/needle nose. I'm not QUITE that dumb 
So heat treating with the torch is simply to make forming the coil easier, or is there some other reason to do this that makes it perform better? From what little I know I would assume only the former is the case. |
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Originally Posted By Towely:
I'm not QUITE that dumb
So heat treating with the torch is simply to make forming the coil easier, or is there some other reason to do this that makes it perform better? From what little I know I would assume only the former is the case. Originally Posted By Towely:
Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? Yes, but don't actually be firing when you touch the coil with your metal tweezer/needle nose. I'm not QUITE that dumb
So heat treating with the torch is simply to make forming the coil easier, or is there some other reason to do this that makes it perform better? From what little I know I would assume only the former is the case. Pretty much. |
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Originally Posted By Towely:
I'm not QUITE that dumb
So heat treating with the torch is simply to make forming the coil easier, or is there some other reason to do this that makes it perform better? From what little I know I would assume only the former is the case. Originally Posted By Towely:
Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Originally Posted By Towely:
If I don't have a torch can I get them as close together as possible, then attach it and fire the battery to get the coil red hot, then squeeze it together while it's attached to the mod? Yes, but don't actually be firing when you touch the coil with your metal tweezer/needle nose. I'm not QUITE that dumb
So heat treating with the torch is simply to make forming the coil easier, or is there some other reason to do this that makes it perform better? From what little I know I would assume only the former is the case. Yes. You want them to be glowing evenly from the inside out. You'll know when you get it. |
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I really don't see a need to torch the coils at all. The only heat I apply to mine (after initially testing the resistance) is to heat it up to make sure none of the coils are touching each other and falsely making the resistance go down (i.e. a couple coils being so tight next to each other that they're touching which makes them act like a a thicker gauge wire).
While they are heated up though, it does make the wire more pliable so you can move it around much easier if you wanted to. |
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Originally Posted By TriChrome:
I really don't see a need to torch the coils at all. The only heat I apply to mine (after initially testing the resistance) is to heat it up to make sure none of the coils are touching each other and falsely making the resistance go down (i.e. a couple coils being so tight next to each other that they're touching which makes them act like a a thicker gauge wire). While they are heated up though, it does make the wire more pliable so you can move it around much easier if you wanted to. That's exactly what you want, with a micro-coil. I always assume we're talking micro-coils nowadays. |
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For squeezing your coils, get an old pair of Schollhorn parallel pliers.
They work well. Better than tweezers. |
"When you die, if you get a choice between going to Regular Heaven or Pie Heaven, choose Pie Heaven. It might be a trick, but if not…mmmmm, boy!" -Jack Handey, Deep Thoughts
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Anyone got any tips for opening up the juice channels on a KFL+?
Keith, I need to look at the one you gave me. I know you opened them up, but I can't remember if you did just the horizontal channels or the vertical channels, too. But I'd think messing with the vertical channels would screw up the chimney threading? The EHPro KFL+ V2 I got does not seem to have the giant channels that I usually see with theirs, specifically. I have to take a few primer puffs after a couple drags, or else I get dry hits and end up funkying up my wick. Not a huge deal, but I've never had to do that with the one you gave me. |
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Anyone got any tips for opening up the juice channels on a KFL+? Keith, I need to look at the one you gave me. I know you opened them up, but I can't remember if you did just the horizontal channels or the vertical channels, too. But I'd think messing with the vertical channels would screw up the chimney threading? The EHPro KFL+ V2 I got does not seem to have the giant channels that I usually see with theirs, specifically. I have to take a few primer puffs after a couple drags, or else I get dry hits and end up funkying up my wick. Not a huge deal, but I've never had to do that with the one you gave me. I did both. You just have to be careful around the threads and go slow. I used these. They aren't high quality but they are cheap (right up your alley  ) and I didn't really need them for anything else.
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Originally Posted By Keith1980:
I did both. You just have to be careful around the threads and go slow. I used these. They aren't high quality but they are cheap (right up your alley ) and I didn't really need them for anything else.Originally Posted By Keith1980:
Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Anyone got any tips for opening up the juice channels on a KFL+? Keith, I need to look at the one you gave me. I know you opened them up, but I can't remember if you did just the horizontal channels or the vertical channels, too. But I'd think messing with the vertical channels would screw up the chimney threading? The EHPro KFL+ V2 I got does not seem to have the giant channels that I usually see with theirs, specifically. I have to take a few primer puffs after a couple drags, or else I get dry hits and end up funkying up my wick. Not a huge deal, but I've never had to do that with the one you gave me. I did both. You just have to be careful around the threads and go slow. I used these. They aren't high quality but they are cheap (right up your alley ) and I didn't really need them for anything else.
Thanks. I have one of those giant Dremel accessories kits laying around somewhere. I'll check to see if I have any diamond bits that small. If not, off to HF. |
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Originally Posted By Keith1980: This works on all the Kayfun clones or the real thing. You will need a 3/32 drill bit, 28g Kanthal wire, cotton ball, butane torch, scissors, and tweezers. This build should put you at 1.6 ohms. Before you start torch the piece of wire so it holds it's shape better. Next put the bottom part of the chamber on. The wick should stay put if not you can move it away from the channels with the flathead. It should look like this. I'm trying exactly this, with 5 or 6 wraps of 28ga on a 1/8 allen key, gave me exactly 1.5ohms. I don't have fun trying to get the wick to stay put on the sides lol But so far, it's working pretty well! |
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Originally Posted By gonzo_beyondo:
I'm trying exactly this, with 5 or 6 wraps of 28ga on a 1/8 allen key, gave me exactly 1.5ohms. I don't have fun trying to get the wick to stay put on the sides lol But so far, it's working pretty well! Originally Posted By gonzo_beyondo:
Originally Posted By Keith1980:
This works on all the Kayfun clones or the real thing. You will need a 3/32 drill bit, 28g Kanthal wire, cotton ball, butane torch, scissors, and tweezers. This build should put you at 1.6 ohms. Before you start torch the piece of wire so it holds it's shape better. Next put the bottom part of the chamber on. The wick should stay put if not you can move it away from the channels with the flathead. It should look like this. I'm trying exactly this, with 5 or 6 wraps of 28ga on a 1/8 allen key, gave me exactly 1.5ohms. I don't have fun trying to get the wick to stay put on the sides lol But so far, it's working pretty well! The past 5 or so rebuilds, I've been just sticking the (dry) wick ends straight up and sliding the chamber over them and threading it on. Then use something to push the wicks down into the sides where they go. Then soaking them with juice. Works good, and is easier than trying to get the little zig-zags to stay in place while you put the chamber on (which is how I used to do it). |
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Originally Posted By black71label:
Thanks for the tutorial. Just built a 1.7 ohm coil with 28 gauge kanthal. 18mg Thug Juice. I haven't had this bad of a nic buzz in a long flipping time. Calm down..the nic buzz is obviously causing you to post waaay too much!!!
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Originally Posted By black71label:
Dude this place scares me. I read GD and it makes me want to climb in a hole. The vapers den, now that's top notch. We try to do whatever we can do whenever we can do it however it can be done.
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter: The past 5 or so rebuilds, I've been just sticking the (dry) wick ends straight up and sliding the chamber over them and threading it on. Then use something to push the wicks down into the sides where they go. Then soaking them with juice. Works good, and is easier than trying to get the little zig-zags to stay in place while you put the chamber on (which is how I used to do it). Originally Posted By NY_Shooter: Originally Posted By gonzo_beyondo: Originally Posted By Keith1980: This works on all the Kayfun clones or the real thing. You will need a 3/32 drill bit, 28g Kanthal wire, cotton ball, butane torch, scissors, and tweezers. This build should put you at 1.6 ohms. Before you start torch the piece of wire so it holds it's shape better. Next put the bottom part of the chamber on. The wick should stay put if not you can move it away from the channels with the flathead. It should look like this. I'm trying exactly this, with 5 or 6 wraps of 28ga on a 1/8 allen key, gave me exactly 1.5ohms. I don't have fun trying to get the wick to stay put on the sides lol But so far, it's working pretty well! The past 5 or so rebuilds, I've been just sticking the (dry) wick ends straight up and sliding the chamber over them and threading it on. Then use something to push the wicks down into the sides where they go. Then soaking them with juice. Works good, and is easier than trying to get the little zig-zags to stay in place while you put the chamber on (which is how I used to do it). |
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Originally Posted By victorgonzales:
that's what I have always done. Much easier Originally Posted By victorgonzales:
Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
The past 5 or so rebuilds, I've been just sticking the (dry) wick ends straight up and sliding the chamber over them and threading it on. Then use something to push the wicks down into the sides where they go. Then soaking them with juice. Works good, and is easier than trying to get the little zig-zags to stay in place while you put the chamber on (which is how I used to do it). That's how i always have done it as well. Also i use the chamber as my measurement when installing a new wick. Insert the new cotton wick, fold the ends straight up, slide the chamber over and screw down. trim wicks level with the end of the chamber. Tuck each side down. I've never had any issues with any (knocks on wood) kayfun so far. 
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Originally Posted By DFBrews:
Have a kayfun light + in the mail should be here Tuesday. I have been playing with micro coils on my trident clone so everything should be kosher. Good thread will update when it gets here Let us know!! |
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Originally Posted By Keith1980:
Let us know!! Originally Posted By Keith1980:
Originally Posted By DFBrews:
Have a kayfun light + in the mail should be here Tuesday. I have been playing with micro coils on my trident clone so everything should be kosher. Good thread will update when it gets here Let us know!! Showed up today tore it down cleaned in alcohol checked for the common problems like plastic in air hole crunchy threads etc all seems well it is the ehpro clone Built a 1.3 ohm coil 28 gauge kanthal wicked with cotton and took for a test drive 20 or so draws in and still gurgling??? I bottom filled . The coil is about 2 mm above the deck the only thing out of the ordinary I noticed is on the upper part of the chimney it looks like there is an oring boss but it does not have one all my googling does not show a clear picture of it so I don't know if there is supposed to be one or not. Flavor is amazing though wow blows my nova out if the water. Close to the trident even. Eta after some research it is just how the unit operates I am not leaking anywhere and does not gurgle with no power going to the coil so it is not flooding. I am a fan! |
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Cross post from other thread, I wouldn't suggest the double barrel one....
This much 30ga wire is 1.8 Ohms, the area in between will be wrapped onto the M3 bolt, following the threads. The Tobeco little black box 510 Ohmmeter with Blue display matches my (far more expensive and calibrated) LCRZ Meter to within 1 digit in the last position! So when the 510 Ohmmeter box says 1.14 ohms, it is somewhere between 1.13 and 1.15 ohms on the precision LCRZ meter. I'd say that little black box Ohmmeter is Extremely Accurate for twice the price! It's more accurate than a Digital Multimeter for sure. I'd believe what the little box says over what any mod says the resistance is. The MVP 2 is off by as much as 0.2 Ohms (20 times worse accuracy than the little black box). 
Wrapped 5/4 turns around an M3 screw, it makes a known 1.8 Ohm coil, it is a basic coil that I know works well for most everything. so I make several identical ones 
I then pull through either 1.5mm or 2mm silica rope x2, or 1.5mm (sometimes 2 mm) Ekowool/Silica braid x2, I notice the braid holds more juice for same length. I wrap several at a time when I am in the mood. In the back is a double coil I like with thicker juices. The frazzled rope is due to PITA of squeezing silica into small coil. 
The "double barrel" coil (Top Center) is 1.5 Ohms, made two 3 Ohm, then twisted the leads together in parallel, they just fit in a Kayfun, you need to get the height right. Those coils were made around a 3/32" shaft, 9 turns each, then one had 1.5mm silica rope pulled through, the other had 1.5mm ekowool/silica braid doubled through. The "pull through" tool is a stainless steel "bracelet threading needle" from a local hobby store. It's way stronger than Kanthal when pulling hard to get thick silica to fit into too small of a coil. If the silica is just too big, the stainless steel needle actually cuts the silica rather than breaking. Once they are assembled and the leads are pointed about the right direction, I torch them while holding with the ceramic tipped tweezers. Ceramic tweezers are awesome for two reasons: White tips are very easy to see when you have silver wire, a silver jig, and a silver Kayfun for background, they provide a nice contrast to see exactly what you are doing compared to stainless tweezers. Second reason: You can hold your coil tight with them and torch it to a micro coil in one go. The downside of the ceramic tweezers: They are the same color at room temp as they are when extremely hot after cooking a micro coil, you learn that one fast.
--ETA: When rebuilding a coil, Kayfun and Protanks work best when the coil is the highest point. If there is wick higher than the middle of the coil, it will want to stay flooded. |
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Why you no micro-coil, bro? The difference between what you see above, and a micro coil is a 10 second easy process after I unscrew the coil from the M3 bolt. I just squeeze it with the tweezers and heat to red hot, and it's a nice ~7/64" (just shy of 3mm) internal diameter micro coil (another cool benefit of the ceramic tweezers!). I skip that step, and it's a nice "traditional coil" These last longer with the fruity flavors I've been using lately. The micro-coils get hotter or something and the sugar (or something) coats the coil much quicker. I can go a couple weeks with what is seen above, at 2 tanks a day. With a micro coil, i barely make it a week with sweet stuff, and the burnt flavor is way strong, not just a hint of it. Micro coil works great with the darker/tobacco e-juices. Either way, I clean them by removing the wick, then torching the coil, quenching in cold water so the Positive spacer doesn't melt, and repeat 2-4 times until coil looks new, then I just pull through new wick. I could re-use the same wick after torching it, but it's usually pretty frazzled. Keeping the wick in when cleaning makes it take a LONG time due to the heat sink effect of the wick. After about the 3rd cleaning, the coil is so brittle it usually breaks when trying to pull through new wick. Every time the wire is heated red/white hot and cooled it gets a bit more brittle. --ETA: I am just vaping to stop smoking, not chase clouds. So the wattage I'm running these at is between 7.5W-9W is all. |
The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
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Originally Posted By brass:
The difference between what you see above, and a micro coil is a 10 second easy process after I unscrew the coil from the M3 bolt. I just squeeze it with the tweezers and heat to red hot, and it's a nice ~7/64" (just shy of 3mm) internal diameter micro coil (another cool benefit of the ceramic tweezers!). I skip that step, and it's a nice "traditional coil" These last longer with the fruity flavors I've been using lately. The micro-coils get hotter or something and the sugar (or something) coats the coil much quicker. I can go a couple weeks with what is seen above, at 2 tanks a day. With a micro coil, i barely make it a week with sweet stuff, and the burnt flavor is way strong, not just a hint of it. Micro coil works great with the darker/tobacco e-juices. Either way, I clean them by removing the wick, then torching the coil, quenching in cold water so the Positive spacer doesn't melt, and repeat 2-4 times until coil looks new, then I just pull through new wick. I could re-use the same wick after torching it, but it's usually pretty frazzled. Keeping the wick in when cleaning makes it take a LONG time due to the heat sink effect of the wick. After about the 3rd cleaning, the coil is so brittle it usually breaks when trying to pull through new wick. Every time the wire is heated red/white hot and cooled it gets a bit more brittle. --ETA: I am just vaping to stop smoking, not chase clouds. So the wattage I'm running these at is between 7.5W-9W is all. Originally Posted By brass:
Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Why you no micro-coil, bro? The difference between what you see above, and a micro coil is a 10 second easy process after I unscrew the coil from the M3 bolt. I just squeeze it with the tweezers and heat to red hot, and it's a nice ~7/64" (just shy of 3mm) internal diameter micro coil (another cool benefit of the ceramic tweezers!). I skip that step, and it's a nice "traditional coil" These last longer with the fruity flavors I've been using lately. The micro-coils get hotter or something and the sugar (or something) coats the coil much quicker. I can go a couple weeks with what is seen above, at 2 tanks a day. With a micro coil, i barely make it a week with sweet stuff, and the burnt flavor is way strong, not just a hint of it. Micro coil works great with the darker/tobacco e-juices. Either way, I clean them by removing the wick, then torching the coil, quenching in cold water so the Positive spacer doesn't melt, and repeat 2-4 times until coil looks new, then I just pull through new wick. I could re-use the same wick after torching it, but it's usually pretty frazzled. Keeping the wick in when cleaning makes it take a LONG time due to the heat sink effect of the wick. After about the 3rd cleaning, the coil is so brittle it usually breaks when trying to pull through new wick. Every time the wire is heated red/white hot and cooled it gets a bit more brittle. --ETA: I am just vaping to stop smoking, not chase clouds. So the wattage I'm running these at is between 7.5W-9W is all. Gotcha. I'm lucky. None of my juices gunk up too much on micro-coils. Of course, I only cycle through 2 juices at a time, max.
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Gotcha. I'm lucky. None of my juices gunk up too much on micro-coils. Of course, I only cycle through 2 juices at a time, max. There's also the theory that the more wick that is in contact with the coil, the more vapor produced, so I'm experimenting with that. I don't really make enough vapor to do a test of output, just useful life. Maybe one of the more experienced around here with an RDA (extra room) could make a long looser wrapped coil (like I have above), as well as a micro coil of the same resistance and see which puts out more vapor, and which lasts longest with useful vaporizing effect? |
The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
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Ok, got a slightly better camera and am showing more detail. This is one of the 1.8 Ohm coils I made above (measured 1.8002 Ohms on LCRZ meter).
Mounted in a Kayfun, then pinched together to be a microcoil, then torched (this is the first time the wire has been torched since it was in my possession). I don't torch prior to winding or after, I only torch it once, so it holds the form it is in at the time the torch is applied. Note, the LBB 510 Ohmmeter is dead spot on with a much higher quality and priced piece of engineering equipment: 
Closeup of the M3 coil with 2 pieces of 2.5mm silica rope through coil: 
Why I do not trust the MVP Resistance Measurement: 
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The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
|
Well got my VTR all chopped up for the kayfun and built it (had to top fill as i dont have any needle tips yet) and HOLY CRAP!
Flavor on this thing is on a whole new level compared to my protanks. Yep, not going back
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Originally Posted By FrozenWinter:
Well got my VTR all chopped up for the kayfun and built it (had to top fill as i dont have any needle tips yet) and HOLY CRAP! Flavor on this thing is on a whole new level compared to my protanks. Yep, not going back Nice. How does it look? |
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Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Nice. How does it look? Originally Posted By NY_Shooter:
Originally Posted By FrozenWinter:
Well got my VTR all chopped up for the kayfun and built it (had to top fill as i dont have any needle tips yet) and HOLY CRAP! Flavor on this thing is on a whole new level compared to my protanks. Yep, not going back Nice. How does it look? It looks pretty damn awesome. The dremel did get away from me a little and i put a small scratch on the metal just above the screen but other than that it went smoothly. I have the SS tank section on it now on my green VTR and the combo looks pretty damn good. Ill bust out the camera tomorrow evening or this weekend and get some pics of it. |
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| So I just built my first coil. I got 2.0 ohm resistance. I used a tad larger dill bit. So that was to be expected. Using the kfun. Filled it up and fired it. Tastes bad. Burnt tasting almost. Had my svd at 11 watts. Any tips on wat it is. On a good note its not leaking. |
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Originally Posted By Thursdaymike:
So I just built my first coil. I got 2.0 ohm resistance. I used a tad larger dill bit. So that was to be expected. Using the kfun. Filled it up and fired it. Tastes bad. Burnt tasting almost. Had my svd at 11 watts. Any tips on wat it is. On a good note its not leaking. Could be that the wicks didn't prime before you fired it. Wicks too tight/big. Or watts a bit high. (Always better to start low on a new device and go up.) ETA: you did thoroughly wash it first right? |
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I always put 2-3 drops in the chamber before capping it off, no matter what I"m using for wicking material. It just makes things go smoother.
Letting it sit vertical for a minute or so after filling (and priming before filling) should fix feeding issues. It may be a bit of a wet hit to start, but not a dry one. Cotton balls hate dry/ or non-primed burns, it messes up the flavor sort of permanently. |
The person who complains most, and is the most critical of others has the most to hide.
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
"Obama campaign is going to set back race relations 40 years thanks to some of the company he keeps"-Mazeman
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Bought a kayfun 3.1 in the big city today to sit on top of the Pro-vari I bought on Monday.
I'm kinda struggling with these coils. So far I've rolled 3 or them and they ohm'd out 1.6-2.0 using a Fluke multimeter. But as soon as I hit the fire button E1 has popped up every time. Even got an E8 for a fraction of a second on the last one. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
NorCal calls me Playboy
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Originally Posted By inthe605:
Bought a kayfun 3.1 in the big city today to sit on top of the Pro-vari I bought on Monday. I'm kinda struggling with these coils. So far I've rolled 3 or them and they ohm'd out 1.6-2.0 using a Fluke multimeter. But as soon as I hit the fire button E1 has popped up every time. Even got an E8 for a fraction of a second on the last one. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Have you checked the meter it self? I literally today had a lead on my fluke go to shit. It was adding 19ohms onto my reading. I wonder if yours is doing the same. |
Lateral aspiration of a rodent is illegal in most states.
Parts Fairy. x27
Parts Fairy. x27