Posted: 8/12/2026 12:39:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: HAMOCK][Edited]
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Let me start off by saying that I'm not a very mechanical guy. I'm not proud of that, but that's the way it is. I guess that I've been mostly lucky with my vehicles... up to now. Back in April of this year, I bought a used 2020 GMC Canyon (V6 / 2WD) from a local dealership. No warranty. My vehicle at the time was on its last leg, it's what I could afford, and I wanted a small / mid-size truck. I have been mostly happy with it, though the MPG could be better. Anyway, the only real issue I've had with it is that starting about 2 months ago I would occasionally get a message on the dash saying the rear driver's side turn signal wasn't working along with the rapid clicking of the turn signal. Not all of the time, maybe 2 or 3 time a week, and I have been meaning to replace the bulb but haven't gotten around to it. This morning I go to start it up to head off to work and nothing. It won't start, the engine doesn't crank, and I don't even hear a click when turning the ignition. The lights work, the radio works, the wipers work, the power locks work, and the power windows work. It just won't start. It shows several messages on the dashboard: "Steering Assist is Reduced Drive with Care", "Service ESC", and "Fuel Level Low". My first thought would be the battery but, with everything else working and not having any previous starting issues, I'm not sure about that. I have a buddy coming by after he gets off work and we'll run over to the local O'Reilley's or Autozone and have the battery checked out. I've done a lot of looking online this morning though and I'm thinking that it may have something to do with the electrical system. A fuse, a relay, a switch, a ground, or something along those lines. I'm expecting something horrible and expensive, kind of like when you Google medical symptoms  Anyway, I'm hoping that someone here has experience or knowledge of such matters and can help me out. I would surely appreciate any assistance. Not really funny, but kind of odd, yesterday I was scheduled to meet a guy regarding a pistol I had for sale. About 5 minutes before we're scheduled to meet up, I'm at the location and I get a text from the guy. He had stopped at a nearby restaurant to grab a bite to eat and now his truck won't start. Someone had tried to jump it, but it wouldn't work and would I mind meeting him at the restaurant. I met him and we made the transaction. I offered to try to jump it again or take him somewhere to get a battery, but he said no thanks as his wife was on the way. Just weird. Thanks in advance for any help. *** ETA *** I checked the fuses in the engine compartment and they all looked okay. I don't have any way of checking the realys though. |
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Battery first. VERY weird things happen in newer vehicles when the battery gets low and the age sounds right if it's never been changed. Just because some things have power does not mean the battery has enough power to crank the engine and most newer computers are very sensitive to low voltage due to damage it can cause. When new batteries go, it's often all at once, you don't get any heads up with slow cranking or anything. It's why I carry something like a Gooloo, I had one take a crap 30 miles from home and the damn thing started perfectly fine when I left home. Walked 1/2 mile, bought a new one, popped it in and it was still working years later. The walk back with the battery [group 27 sized] was a PITA. Best of luck and until the battery is looked at and checked, don't stress out, it's very likely what it is. |
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I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By fxntime: Battery first. VERY weird things happen in newer vehicles when the battery gets low and the age sounds right if it's never been changed. Just because some things have power does not mean the battery has enough power to crank the engine and most newer computers are very sensitive to low voltage due to damage it can cause. When new batteries go, it's often all at once, you don't get any heads up with slow cranking or anything. It's why I carry something like a Gooloo, I had one take a crap 30 miles from home and the damn thing started perfectly fine when I left home. Walked 1/2 mile, bought a new one, popped it in and it was still working years later. The walk back with the battery [group 27 sized] was a PITA. Best of luck and until the battery is looked at and checked, don't stress out, it's very likely what it is. Thanks, hopefully that's all it is. I actually got one of those jump starters for my son to keep in his car. I probably should have picked one up for myself. |
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Originally Posted By HAMOCK: Thanks, hopefully that's all it is. I actually got one of those jump starters for my son to keep in his car. I probably should have picked one up for myself. Originally Posted By HAMOCK: Originally Posted By fxntime: Battery first. VERY weird things happen in newer vehicles when the battery gets low and the age sounds right if it's never been changed. Just because some things have power does not mean the battery has enough power to crank the engine and most newer computers are very sensitive to low voltage due to damage it can cause. When new batteries go, it's often all at once, you don't get any heads up with slow cranking or anything. It's why I carry something like a Gooloo, I had one take a crap 30 miles from home and the damn thing started perfectly fine when I left home. Walked 1/2 mile, bought a new one, popped it in and it was still working years later. The walk back with the battery [group 27 sized] was a PITA. Best of luck and until the battery is looked at and checked, don't stress out, it's very likely what it is. Thanks, hopefully that's all it is. I actually got one of those jump starters for my son to keep in his car. I probably should have picked one up for myself. I have the Gooloo 4000GT and it kicks butt for the money. It also holds a charge VERY well, some brands seem to lose power far faster. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By fxntime: I have the Gooloo 4000GT and it kicks butt for the money. It also holds a charge VERY well, some brands seem to lose power far faster. Originally Posted By fxntime: Originally Posted By HAMOCK: Originally Posted By fxntime: Battery first. VERY weird things happen in newer vehicles when the battery gets low and the age sounds right if it's never been changed. Just because some things have power does not mean the battery has enough power to crank the engine and most newer computers are very sensitive to low voltage due to damage it can cause. When new batteries go, it's often all at once, you don't get any heads up with slow cranking or anything. It's why I carry something like a Gooloo, I had one take a crap 30 miles from home and the damn thing started perfectly fine when I left home. Walked 1/2 mile, bought a new one, popped it in and it was still working years later. The walk back with the battery [group 27 sized] was a PITA. Best of luck and until the battery is looked at and checked, don't stress out, it's very likely what it is. Thanks, hopefully that's all it is. I actually got one of those jump starters for my son to keep in his car. I probably should have picked one up for myself. I have the Gooloo 4000GT and it kicks butt for the money. It also holds a charge VERY well, some brands seem to lose power far faster. I will definately keep that in mind. Just pulled the battery out. No date on it but t's an ACDelco / GM so I'm going to assume it's the original battery. I feel a little better about that. |
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| So, I just got back from Autozone. They tested my battery and said it was good. I was seriously hoping that was the issue. Like I told the guy "You just saved me $200, but probably cost me a lot more." Any other thoughts? |
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Originally Posted By HAMOCK: So, I just got back from Autozone. They tested my battery and said it was good. I was seriously hoping that was the issue. Like I told the guy "You just saved me $200, but probably cost me a lot more." Any other thoughts? If they didn't do a proper load test and just checked the voltage, you still don't know. I've had bad batteries still read 12.2-12.5 and still not even crank the engine once. Put the old one in and try to jump start it before doing anything else. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By fxntime: If they didn't do a proper load test and just checked the voltage, you still don't know. I've had bad batteries still read 12.2-12.5 and still not even crank the engine once. Put the old one in and try to jump start it before doing anything else. Originally Posted By fxntime: Originally Posted By HAMOCK: So, I just got back from Autozone. They tested my battery and said it was good. I was seriously hoping that was the issue. Like I told the guy "You just saved me $200, but probably cost me a lot more." Any other thoughts? If they didn't do a proper load test and just checked the voltage, you still don't know. I've had bad batteries still read 12.2-12.5 and still not even crank the engine once. Put the old one in and try to jump start it before doing anything else. He hooked it up to what looked like a handheld voltage meter and said it was good. I just assumed he knew what he was doing. Sounds like I should try somewhere else. My son should be back tonight and I'll try jumping it tomorrow. Thanks |
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Ask a local place what the return policy in on new batteries. If you can try it in your vehicle and it still doesn't start, then return the new battery. Oreillys is notorious for saying a battery is good when it isn't if that's where you went. I have a 2019 ram that had an oem battery in it until last winter, went to start the truck and got the similar symptoms. I was lucky the oem battery lasted that long and knew it was coming. |
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No crank, no start could be a lot of things. First thing I'd look for is corrosion on the cables going to the starter and the engine ground. Take them off and clean them with a wire brush. Check them real well where they are crimped into the eyelets. They'll fool you. Read the codes. Look for a high amperage code on the start circuit. Then you'll just have to hook up a good scan tool that shows live data and see if you're getting a crank request input from the push button to the PCM and then an output from the PCM to the starter. Powers and grounds first though. |
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Originally Posted By HAMOCK: He hooked it up to what looked like a handheld voltage meter and said it was good. I just assumed he knew what he was doing. Sounds like I should try somewhere else. My son should be back tonight and I'll try jumping it tomorrow. Thanks Originally Posted By HAMOCK: Originally Posted By fxntime: Originally Posted By HAMOCK: So, I just got back from Autozone. They tested my battery and said it was good. I was seriously hoping that was the issue. Like I told the guy "You just saved me $200, but probably cost me a lot more." Any other thoughts? If they didn't do a proper load test and just checked the voltage, you still don't know. I've had bad batteries still read 12.2-12.5 and still not even crank the engine once. Put the old one in and try to jump start it before doing anything else. He hooked it up to what looked like a handheld voltage meter and said it was good. I just assumed he knew what he was doing. Sounds like I should try somewhere else. My son should be back tonight and I'll try jumping it tomorrow. Thanks I'd bet all he did was check the standing voltage which really tells you next to nothing other then no load voltage. What is doesn't tell you is the batteries ability to deliver the proper voltage when a high AMP load is placed on the battery. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By Nobody69s: Ask a local place what the return policy in on new batteries. If you can try it in your vehicle and it still doesn't start, then return the new battery. Oreillys is notorious for saying a battery is good when it isn't if that's where you went. I have a 2019 ram that had an oem battery in it until last winter, went to start the truck and got the similar symptoms. I was lucky the oem battery lasted that long and knew it was coming. It was an Autozone, but basically the same thing. |
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Originally Posted By Waldo: No crank, no start could be a lot of things. First thing I'd look for is corrosion on the cables going to the starter and the engine ground. Take them off and clean them with a wire brush. Check them real well where they are crimped into the eyelets. They'll fool you. Read the codes. Look for a high amperage code on the start circuit. Then you'll just have to hook up a good scan tool that shows live data and see if you're getting a crank request input from the push button to the PCM and then an output from the PCM to the starter. Powers and grounds first though. I read something online about checking the cables. I'm not a complete idiot (opinions vary) but you lost me at the codes. I don't see any codes, I don't have a code reader, and the truck won't start so I can't drive to a location with a code reader, |
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Originally Posted By fxntime: I'd bet all he did was check the standing voltage which really tells you next to nothing other then no load voltage. What is doesn't tell you is the batteries ability to deliver the proper voltage when a high AMP load is placed on the battery. Originally Posted By fxntime: Originally Posted By HAMOCK: Originally Posted By fxntime: Originally Posted By HAMOCK: So, I just got back from Autozone. They tested my battery and said it was good. I was seriously hoping that was the issue. Like I told the guy "You just saved me $200, but probably cost me a lot more." Any other thoughts? If they didn't do a proper load test and just checked the voltage, you still don't know. I've had bad batteries still read 12.2-12.5 and still not even crank the engine once. Put the old one in and try to jump start it before doing anything else. He hooked it up to what looked like a handheld voltage meter and said it was good. I just assumed he knew what he was doing. Sounds like I should try somewhere else. My son should be back tonight and I'll try jumping it tomorrow. Thanks I'd bet all he did was check the standing voltage which really tells you next to nothing other then no load voltage. What is doesn't tell you is the batteries ability to deliver the proper voltage when a high AMP load is placed on the battery. I see. |
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Did his tester have heavy cables and clamps? Did it take least a minute to test? Was the tester big like a hairdryer, or small like a cellphone? A real load tester looks like this and gives off heat. Either way, I would have bought the battery if yours is 6 years old. 
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Originally Posted By HAMOCK: I read something online about checking the cables. I'm not a complete idiot (opinions vary) but you lost me at the codes. I don't see any codes, I don't have a code reader, and the truck won't start so I can't drive to a location with a code reader, It's kind of hard to do electrical diagnostics on modern vehicles without decent scan tools, a test light and a meter. My 19 year old beater truck sits a lot. Came home from a trip and went to move it out of my way. No crank, no start. Battery was fine. Got out the test light and checked fuses. All OK. Plugged in scan tool and got a P127A Starter control circuit 2 overcurrent. That is what gave me my direction. Went under the truck, pulled the positive starter cable and cleaned the connections and then the ground. And just like that, it's all it was. |
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Yeah, a voltmeter isn’t gonna be super helpful without a load test. I’m also of the opinion that”bad battery” opinion. Try jump starting it. If it jumps, bad battery. |
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Originally Posted By JoseCuervo: Did his tester have heavy cables and clamps? Did it take least a minute to test? Was the tester big like a hairdryer, or small like a cellphone? A real load tester looks like this and gives off heat. Either way, I would have bought the battery if yours is 6 years old. https://www.zoro.com/static/cms/product/large/Z1tCG-jcpEx_.JPG It had clamps similar to your picture, though I believe the device was smaller. I tried jump starting it Thursday afternoon as some had mentioned here, both with a jump box and with my son's car, but no crank, no clicks, nothing. I've been out of the area since Friday afternoon, but plan on taking a look at the starter and cables tomorrow or Tuesday. |
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Originally Posted By Waldo: It's kind of hard to do electrical diagnostics on modern vehicles without decent scan tools, a test light and a meter. My 19 year old beater truck sits a lot. Came home from a trip and went to move it out of my way. No crank, no start. Battery was fine. Got out the test light and checked fuses. All OK. Plugged in scan tool and got a P127A Starter control circuit 2 overcurrent. That is what gave me my direction. Went under the truck, pulled the positive starter cable and cleaned the connections and then the ground. And just like that, it's all it was. Thanks. I tried jump starting it Thursday afternoon as some had mentioned here, both with a jump box and with my son's car, but no crank, no clicks, nothing. I've been out of the area since Friday afternoon, but plan on taking a look at the starter and cables tomorrow or Tuesday. |
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Originally Posted By fttam: Yeah, a voltmeter isn’t gonna be super helpful without a load test. I’m also of the opinion that”bad battery” opinion. Try jump starting it. If it jumps, bad battery. I tried jump starting it Thursday afternoon as some had mentioned here, both with a jump box and with my son's car, but no crank, no clicks, nothing. I've been out of the area since Friday afternoon, but plan on taking a look at the starter and cables tomorrow or Tuesday. |
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Originally Posted By CanaryCamaro: If your battery is original I’d bet it’s dead. Texas is a cruel bitch to car batteries. We are lucky to get 3 years out of ours and both are garage kept. Good luck OP. I know what you mean. 3 years seems to be the average with mine and my family's vehicles. I just don't know for sure if the current battery is the original. It's an ACDelco / GM, so that's always a possibility. I tried jump starting it Thursday afternoon as some had mentioned here, both with a jump box and with my son's car, but no crank, no clicks, nothing. I've been out of the area since Friday afternoon, but plan on taking a look at the starter and cables tomorrow or Tuesday. |
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Hate to say it, but I think you're at "Level 2 diagnostics" where you really need to plug in to the network w/a scan tool & see what's going on (or not going on, lol). You've done the right basics with checking the battery & jumpstarting attempts. Scan tool, DVOM, 12V test light, and wiring diagrams would really help here....if you don't want to have it towed to a shop, look for a mobile mechanic in your area? |
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Thanks for all the replies and sorry for not updating sooner. I finally found the date on the battery because, apparently, I'm an idiot. Stamped in the plastic on the top left corner was 12/12/19  . This got my hopes up because in my experience my batteries seem to last about 4 years +/- down here and this one was over 6 1/2 years old. I ran over to the nearest AutoZone and purchased a new battery. Got home and installed it feeling pretty good. Hopped in and turned the key and... nothing. Cables are in the right locations, terminal lugs are tight but not cranking over and not even a click. Power windows, power locks, wipers, lights, horn still work but it won't start. I'll try to mess with the starter this weekend, but it's in a horrible location.
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Originally Posted By 94TBlazer: Hate to say it, but I think you're at "Level 2 diagnostics" where you really need to plug in to the network w/a scan tool & see what's going on (or not going on, lol). You've done the right basics with checking the battery & jumpstarting attempts. Scan tool, DVOM, 12V test light, and wiring diagrams would really help here....if you don't want to have it towed to a shop, look for a mobile mechanic in your area? My son has a buddy who is a mobile mechanic. Unfortunately, he's out of the area on a cruise. He should be back in a few days and I may have to hit him up. |
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Unfortunately, you’ve done all the things you can do with the limited tools you have. If you don’t have electrical diagnostic tools and at least a rudimentary knowledge of how to use them (maybe combined with YouTube videos) there is little to nothing you can do to diagnose further. If you had those things, the yes there are still things to test. Personally, I’d suspect the starter at this point but I’d test things before just replacing it. |
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| I would at least buy a cheap scan tool. You can get them for 25-30 bucks, maybe even cheaper. You can spend a little more on a better one. I have a Bluetooth one called BlueDriver that you can leave hooked up that will monitor your vehicle. |
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| Clean the cables at the battery. Look for corrosion. Tighten the clamps on the terminals. Then clean the ground where it attaches to the vehicle. If not that, probably the module. And check the new battery. Heat kills batteries. |
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Originally Posted By Oldgold: Clean the cables at the battery. Look for corrosion. Tighten the clamps on the terminals. Then clean the ground where it attaches to the vehicle. If not that, probably the module. And check the new battery. Heat kills batteries. This, but i would go ahead and get a tool to clean the connectors and do just that. I have a 7 year old red top battery, and the car acted like the battery was dead. Took it in and they said battery fine. So I cleaned the crap out of the connections and all was like new. Good think too. |
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Originally Posted By HAMOCK: My son has a buddy who is a mobile mechanic. Unfortunately, he's out of the area on a cruise. He should be back in a few days and I may have to hit him up. Originally Posted By HAMOCK: Originally Posted By 94TBlazer: Hate to say it, but I think you're at "Level 2 diagnostics" where you really need to plug in to the network w/a scan tool & see what's going on (or not going on, lol). You've done the right basics with checking the battery & jumpstarting attempts. Scan tool, DVOM, 12V test light, and wiring diagrams would really help here....if you don't want to have it towed to a shop, look for a mobile mechanic in your area? My son has a buddy who is a mobile mechanic. Unfortunately, he's out of the area on a cruise. He should be back in a few days and I may have to hit him up. *** UPDATE *** My son's buddy stopped by today between jobs while I was at work. I'm not sure what type of diagnostic tool / code reader thing he used, but he came up with a U0100 code. Apparently, this means "Lost communication with engine control module (ECM)". He's going to stop back by when he has more time and try to run the specific issue down. |
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Damn, could be weak battery, blown fuses, shitty corroded harness's, or ecm/pcm faulted/died. My shaggingwagon's pcm faulted on me sunday, got to check bit more to be certain, but probably end up getting a rebuild pcm off the net. |