Foxtrot08 makes an oil thread! (Page 5 of 160)
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Originally Posted By VVinci: Decades ago, I worked for an R&D entity that tested every single fuel and oil additive on the market. Techron was deemed to be the only one that did anything useful. I still dump a bottle in my cars occasionally. Thanks for the answers from the pros. |
peach fuzz
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Doesn't do anything as a fuel additive. Just burn mineral spirits, same-same. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By JamPo: When you say “don’t use sea foam”, as an oil additive or does this include as a fuel additive as well? Doesn't do anything as a fuel additive. Just burn mineral spirits, same-same. Maybe on a car or truck, idk. But Seafoam produces amazing results in 2-stroke outboards. |
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@foxtrot08 Thanks for sharing your knowledge with everyone. I’d be curious to know your thoughts on BG MOA oil additive for passenger vehicles. Been using it several years on the recommendation of my step dad who is a retired mechanic. Thanks buddy, keep up the good work! |
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Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: In my case an engine swap was not cost effective. The car would have been worth about 4k in good running condition. A replacement engine was going to be between 6 and 8k. There were a bunch of problems with the lifter oil passages being plugged causing codes with the cam phasers. My objective was to try to use the BG stuff to unclog the oil passages and try to get 10 or 15k miles out of the thing until a better car could be located for a family member. The deeper I got into the thing the more problems were found and I cut my losses before I used the flush kit. Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: Originally Posted By castlebravo84: Wouldn't a new filter and new oil start cleaning that up on its own? If anything is clogged to the point bearings have already been starved of oil, the engine is already on its way out even if you wave a magic wand and instantly make it squeeky clean. I think your biggest threat now assuming it isn't already a time bomb is chunks coming loose and clogging stuff up, so maybe a slower cleaning process from just new oil is the safest bet? Maybe keep an eye on the dipstick and do more frequent oil/filter changes when it darkens? In my case an engine swap was not cost effective. The car would have been worth about 4k in good running condition. A replacement engine was going to be between 6 and 8k. There were a bunch of problems with the lifter oil passages being plugged causing codes with the cam phasers. My objective was to try to use the BG stuff to unclog the oil passages and try to get 10 or 15k miles out of the thing until a better car could be located for a family member. The deeper I got into the thing the more problems were found and I cut my losses before I used the flush kit. Yeah, when it gets that bad, its questionable if its worth trying to save. I suspect a lot of people using those flush products are just trying to get the thing to run well long enough to con someone into buying their junk. |
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I have a 22' 4Runner and use the OEM oil for regular changes. I did some research and there were many statements on 4runner oil threads that the toyota oil was higher in moly that helped to quiet the engine. I order the oil online so cost isnt that great but if there is a better oil to use I am all ears. |
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Originally Posted By ropin4gold: @foxtrot08 Thanks for sharing your knowledge with everyone. I’d be curious to know your thoughts on BG MOA oil additive for passenger vehicles. Been using it several years on the recommendation of my step dad who is a retired mechanic. Thanks buddy, keep up the good work! Essentially the same as Lucas oil stabilizer. Don’t use it. |
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Originally Posted By Orion10182011: @Foxtrot08 What is wrong with hexagonal boron nitride? AKA Ceratec. They use it as a non-zinc anti wear additive. You can see it in a lot of VoAs/UoA. It’s particularly popular in non-zinc industrial fluids. If your product is formulated with it, cool. If not, don’t add it. |
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Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: The You Tube videos of BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit are amazing but it is pricy. I bought a kit to use but ended up cutting my losses before I used it. I still have the kit sitting on the shelf waiting to be used some time in the future. Most of the Amazon reviews are favorable. I'd be curious what Foxtrot08 thinks about it. www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4Z2J16B Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: Originally Posted By NachoDip: If you wanted to clean out the internals of an engine crank case that hasn’t had an oil change in waaaaaay tooooo long. What would you do? It wasn’t destroyed but the oil was very black and clearly left deposits. The You Tube videos of BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit are amazing but it is pricy. I bought a kit to use but ended up cutting my losses before I used it. I still have the kit sitting on the shelf waiting to be used some time in the future. Most of the Amazon reviews are favorable. I'd be curious what Foxtrot08 thinks about it. www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4Z2J16B I’m 50/50 on engine oil systems cleaner. I sell one/designed one. It works, I’ve tried it in all sorts of applications. But it’s not an additive, it’s a flush. Put it in, run it for 10 minutes. Drain. Works the same way as varnish removers do in industrial hydraulic systems. Same ideas. You use the polarity of base oils to soften deposits - particularly PoE and AN base stocks. If your oil already has those (redline) - then you don’t need to use one. If you don’t use an oil like that, they can be helpful time to time. That’s my .02. I have no strong thoughts on the BG product. Most BG products are over hyped / pushed hard on dealerships which then are pushed hard to consumers. But in general im okay with engine flushes. It’s something lake and i will agree to disagree on. I generally like to cut first to third - and just use a super stout engine oil like redline. Don’t have to use an expensive flush later on. Or risk compatibility issues with a flush. Or anything else like that. You can generally get the same affect by going to a stout engine oil and doing a few changes at Lower miles. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
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Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: The You Tube videos of BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit are amazing but it is pricy. I bought a kit to use but ended up cutting my losses before I used it. I still have the kit sitting on the shelf waiting to be used some time in the future. Most of the Amazon reviews are favorable. I'd be curious what Foxtrot08 thinks about it. www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4Z2J16B Im not a scientist, but i used that on several customers cars that were sludged up at my last job and it actually worked. |
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Originally Posted By PhuzzyGnu: What 0w20 oil to use? Or does it even matter? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/69748/1000009521_jpg-3214667.JPG I’m fairly agnostic when it comes to major brand PCEO. They’re all generally about the same. |
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Test results for ZDDP additives start around the 27 minute mark. You can continue to stay wrong, everyone is allowed to have opinions. Just because something hasn't broken, doesn't make it right. You could, just use an oil formulated for high performance engines. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Gtdhw: Almost 20 years of using ZDDP additive in the same engines (hyd. flat tappet) that get the absolute shit beat out of them, yet still function perfectly (with no rebuilds), says I will continue to do so. Off the shelf available everywhere and zero ill side effects. If it's wrong, I just will stay wrong, as the results are excellent. Test results for ZDDP additives start around the 27 minute mark. You can continue to stay wrong, everyone is allowed to have opinions. Just because something hasn't broken, doesn't make it right. You could, just use an oil formulated for high performance engines. Did they only test the Rislone that jacked up the acid numbers, would be nice to see how the Lucas Zddp that had zinc and more detergent would have compared. |
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Originally Posted By Glock63: In my heavy truck and ag engines I switched from T5 to chevron delo. Oil consumption was cut in half amd wear metals decreased significantly too. This is relevant to my interests. Right now I run T5 in all my underground engines but if there's a better option then I'm all ears. Any thoughts on Schaeffer SynShield? |
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Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: The engines this stuff is going onto HAVE NOT HAD regular oil changes hence the SLUDGE build up. The car I was going to use this on had a majority of the oil passages plugged. When I pulled the valve covers there was a 1/4 thick layer of sludge on everything. Under the timing chain cover was just as bad. Oil sludge drained from the crank case when I pulled the drain plug. This one is bad. But not THAT BAD |
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Are you pouring it right into the carb, or are you dumping a quart into a 30 gallon gas tank, then topping back off at 1/4 to half tank? And then again and again and again? Simply put, you're diluting it down too much to make a damn bit of difference. And there's so many tests out there that have shown amines work. Other stuff doesn't. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Jayne_Cobb: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By jmiddy: Hey Foxtrot08 Seafoam must clean injectors etc. added to fuel. is Seafoam not just white gas or Naptha. What I found a true story by the way, rebuilding from scratch a 2003 5.3LS tried everything to degrease and clean carbon off of everything. Parts cleaner was no good regardless of what kind all it did was get rid of the oil did not clean, left dirt in the castings etc. Tried seafoam and shit it cleaned carbon deposits way better than a parts cleaner. Found out its white gas mostly, well, well Sea Foam is kind of expensive in a small bottle, so bought Colemans fuel in a gallon can and shit best damn cleaner i have used to clean heads, valves and the block etc. So it has to do its job in cleaning the fuel system right? The problem with Naptha / mineral spirits / etc is simply the fact they're not detergents. They're solvents. They're going into a solvent that is a like solvent. So you simply have too much dilution. Detergents have polar ends. Which will grab and soften varnish up. Which means it then can be dispersed in the solvents (gasoline.) Really ethanol is a fantastic cleaner as well. So with premium fuel, you don't need to add too much to it. Simply put, you're diluting it down too much to make a damn bit of difference. And there's so many tests out there that have shown amines work. Other stuff doesn't. Next day, start it on ether and let the bowl dilute itself back to normal gas. My 1-screw 5-minute tune-up for neglected roadside finds. 
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@foxtrot08 I think you mentioned in another post that ethanol is a decent fuel system cleaner. I have a vehicle that’s able to use E85, but I don’t use E85 for various reasons. Would running a very occasional tank of E85 have any benefit for cleaning the fuel system or combustion deposits? If so, would there be any harm or benefit in adding Techron to E85 for that tank? My state heavily subsidizes E85, so cost per mile between E85 and E10 is a wash, so it really doesn’t cost me more in lost fuel mileage to fill up with E85. |
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Originally Posted By sabocat: This is relevant to my interests. Right now I run T5 in all my underground engines but if there's a better option then I'm all ears. Any thoughts on Schaeffer SynShield? I've heard good about Schaeffers but have no experience personally so I'll defer to foxtrot. I'm not kidding you though. When I switched from Rotella to delo, one of my drivers asked me what I had done because he no longer had to add oil between changes. Oil samples following that from blackstone were the nail in the coffin for Rotella at our operation. |
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The engine in my boat is a mildly built full roller 509 BBC and I've always used conventional VR1 20w-50. Any reason to move to the VR1 synthetic? |
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87% of Gee Dee couldn't get laid in a Thai brothel with a black AMEX and a kilo of the finest blow on the planet.
bruh.
87% of Gee Dee couldn't get laid in a Thai brothel with a black AMEX and a kilo of the finest blow on the planet.
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Originally Posted By BossMaverick: @foxtrot08 I think you mentioned in another post that ethanol is a decent fuel system cleaner. I have a vehicle that’s able to use E85, but I don’t use E85 for various reasons. Would running a very occasional tank of E85 have any benefit for cleaning the fuel system or combustion deposits? If so, would there be any harm or benefit in adding Techron to E85 for that tank? My state heavily subsidizes E85, so cost per mile between E85 and E10 is a wash, so it really doesn’t cost me more in lost fuel mileage to fill up with E85. You can, yes. Results will vary. I mostly brought up the ethanol issue because it’s literally cleaned the UGST’s at the stations. And keeps large quantities of water out of tanks anymore. As it gets absorbed and gone. Which prevents a lot of other issues. If you’re worried about the inside of your fuel system, I would use E85 quickly. Then use something like Redline SL1 as it has a corrosion inhibiting package. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
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Originally Posted By XJ01-08: Did they only test the Rislone that jacked up the acid numbers, would be nice to see how the Lucas Zddp that had zinc and more detergent would have compared. Originally Posted By XJ01-08: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Gtdhw: Almost 20 years of using ZDDP additive in the same engines (hyd. flat tappet) that get the absolute shit beat out of them, yet still function perfectly (with no rebuilds), says I will continue to do so. Off the shelf available everywhere and zero ill side effects. If it's wrong, I just will stay wrong, as the results are excellent. Test results for ZDDP additives start around the 27 minute mark. You can continue to stay wrong, everyone is allowed to have opinions. Just because something hasn't broken, doesn't make it right. You could, just use an oil formulated for high performance engines. Did they only test the Rislone that jacked up the acid numbers, would be nice to see how the Lucas Zddp that had zinc and more detergent would have compared. Basically the same. It’s all the same idea. These additives are incompatible with fully formulated oils. Adding more is not a good thing, as there’s trade offs. Zinc causes sludge, as it oxidizes the oil. If you want to know why a lot of old oils sludged up so fast, it’s because of how much zinc they had in them. The concept is there in the video. Don’t add it. If you want something high zinc, buy one that’s been formulated. Don’t add shit from a bottle. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
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Originally Posted By Glock63: I've heard good about Schaeffers but have no experience personally so I'll defer to foxtrot. I'm not kidding you though. When I switched from Rotella to delo, one of my drivers asked me what I had done because he no longer had to add oil between changes. Oil samples following that from blackstone were the nail in the coffin for Rotella at our operation. Originally Posted By Glock63: Originally Posted By sabocat: This is relevant to my interests. Right now I run T5 in all my underground engines but if there's a better option then I'm all ears. Any thoughts on Schaeffer SynShield? I've heard good about Schaeffers but have no experience personally so I'll defer to foxtrot. I'm not kidding you though. When I switched from Rotella to delo, one of my drivers asked me what I had done because he no longer had to add oil between changes. Oil samples following that from blackstone were the nail in the coffin for Rotella at our operation. Extremely overpriced is my opinion on Schaeffers. Theyre another amsoil product to me. Sure it’s decent, but you’re paying 2-3x more for something that isn’t 2-3x better. And they have a lot of gotcha’s like their 238 grease. Which isn’t compatible with anything else. |
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Opinion? Anything better to use at the track in the summer to prevent knock retard? I don't "use as directed". I measure, but use much more. It works. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By housewolf: Opinion? Anything better to use at the track in the summer to prevent knock retard? I don't "use as directed". I measure, but use much more. It works. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177202/IMG_9356_jpeg-3214823.JPG Octane boosters are something I don’t know a ton about. Mostly because I’m not in the racing industry to be honest. I get the basics. Most cheap octane boosters are just… ethanol. But VP’s got all the good stuff in it.  Everything that definitely causes cancer in CA. So on the surface level, looks good? I just honestly don’t know enough to say one way or another. Besides, it’s not ethanol. Which is a plus. |
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Octane boosters are something I don’t know a ton about. Mostly because I’m not in the racing industry to be honest. I get the basics. Most cheap octane boosters are just… ethanol. But VP’s got all the good stuff in it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/IMG_4574-3214828.jpg Everything that definitely causes cancer in CA. So on the surface level, looks good? I just honestly don’t know enough to say one way or another. Besides, it’s not ethanol. Which is a plus. You and I talked about it a while back. Things like Torco additive for fuel. I can say it does remove knock and such. I use it in the Viper (when the nitrous tank is in) and ZL1 since I can’t find 93 locally and it’s what the manual calls for. Just throw in 4oz every fill up. |
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Originally Posted By NachoDip: You and I talked about it a while back. Things like Torco additive for fuel. I can say it does remove knock and such. I use it in the Viper (when the nitrous tank is in) and ZL1 since I can’t find 93 locally and it’s what the manual calls for. Just throw in 4oz every fill up. Originally Posted By NachoDip: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Octane boosters are something I don’t know a ton about. Mostly because I’m not in the racing industry to be honest. I get the basics. Most cheap octane boosters are just… ethanol. But VP’s got all the good stuff in it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/IMG_4574-3214828.jpg Everything that definitely causes cancer in CA. So on the surface level, looks good? I just honestly don’t know enough to say one way or another. Besides, it’s not ethanol. Which is a plus. You and I talked about it a while back. Things like Torco additive for fuel. I can say it does remove knock and such. I use it in the Viper (when the nitrous tank is in) and ZL1 since I can’t find 93 locally and it’s what the manual calls for. Just throw in 4oz every fill up. Yeah I mean octane boosters definitely can work. They’re not “cleaners” as discussed. And whether or not is better to buy OEM racing gas or buy additive.. no idea. I’m not in the racing world personally, at all. I’d just watch out for cheap ones. The VP one is certainly a better formulation than say the Lucas one. Which is basically a light distillate. Take a Quick Look at the SDS. But I generally like Vp racing gas. I get it for a few friends for their dirt bikes / cars / etc. they swear by it. But, really not my world. |
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Originally Posted By garr: Your recommendation for the best PEA Amine based fuel additive? I dont think there is a statistical difference in terms of cleaning levels in brands. As it’s all chevrons technology. Redline SL1 does have the highest amount of corrosion inhibitors (so they claim) for cars that air. So if you’re worried about corrosion, then I would look at SL1. |
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Originally Posted By housewolf: Opinion? Anything better to use at the track in the summer to prevent knock retard? I don't "use as directed". I measure, but use much more. It works. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177202/IMG_9356_jpeg-3214823.JPG I use the VP stuff in my bike gas, 2.5oz per 5 gallons. It works. They caution against stronger doses as it can apparently attack some plastics and rubbers IIRC. |
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Originally Posted By Johnny_Utah_88: I use Pennzoil Ultra platinum 0 W 40 in my 392 Hemi. Do you think Red Line would be a better oil? |
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Originally Posted By Johnny_Utah_88: Originally Posted By Johnny_Utah_88: Originally Posted By Johnny_Utah_88: I use Pennzoil Ultra platinum 0 W 40 in my 392 Hemi. Do you think Red Line would be a better oil? I think the PUP is fine. Unless you’re doing something special with it, like extreme rock crawling where you’re at high RPMS all the time. Just keep with the PUP for the money. If you want to run the best of the best. Go with the redline. |
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So, speaking about Rotella; specifically T5 15W-40. What would your recommended replacement be? I have two gas pickups (78 F250 w/400ci and 97 F350 w/460EFI) and a Ford diesel tractor that all get this stuff (they even share the same filter). I normally buy 5 gallon buckets and try to keep 10 gallons on hand. I thought Rotella was good stuff, but from seeing recent and past comments from you, I'm now looking at alternatives. Any input is appreciated. |
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Originally Posted By JackRebney: I use the VP stuff in my bike gas, 2.5oz per 5 gallons. It works. They caution against stronger doses as it can apparently attack some plastics and rubbers IIRC. When I use it, I use about 4x that! As I understand it, and I could be wrong the biggest risks are damage to the cats (I still have them) and O2 sensors. I've only used it mixing small doses for track days. I recently upgraded my heat exchanger & coolant reservoir so my IATs are better. Last time I checked I didn't have knock, but when I do, it pulls as much as 6 deg of timing. Slows me down quite a bit. |
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Octane boosters are something I don’t know a ton about. Mostly because I’m not in the racing industry to be honest. I get the basics. Most cheap octane boosters are just… ethanol. But VP’s got all the good stuff in it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/IMG_4574-3214828.jpg Everything that definitely causes cancer in CA. So on the surface level, looks good? I just honestly don’t know enough to say one way or another. Besides, it’s not ethanol. Which is a plus. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By housewolf: Opinion? Anything better to use at the track in the summer to prevent knock retard? I don't "use as directed". I measure, but use much more. It works. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177202/IMG_9356_jpeg-3214823.JPG Octane boosters are something I don’t know a ton about. Mostly because I’m not in the racing industry to be honest. I get the basics. Most cheap octane boosters are just… ethanol. But VP’s got all the good stuff in it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/IMG_4574-3214828.jpg Everything that definitely causes cancer in CA. So on the surface level, looks good? I just honestly don’t know enough to say one way or another. Besides, it’s not ethanol. Which is a plus. From what I've seen from vizard ... good octane boosters are the stuff that gives you cancer. |
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Extremely overpriced is my opinion on Schaeffers. Theyre another amsoil product to me. Sure it’s decent, but you’re paying 2-3x more for something that isn’t 2-3x better. And they have a lot of gotcha’s like their 238 grease. Which isn’t compatible with anything else. Aluminum complex? I got a bunch of 229 from when my old work closed down, just about out now but may end up sticking with it because compatibility issues. Also sent you a PM, pretty sure I know what company is yours but want to make sure I'm buying oil from the right place now. |
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Originally Posted By housewolf: Opinion? Anything better to use at the track in the summer to prevent knock retard? I don't "use as directed". I measure, but use much more. It works. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177202/IMG_9356_jpeg-3214823.JPG The thing to watch out for with octane boosters like that and Boostane is that they can cause issues with O2 sensors and catalytic converters at anything other than low concentrations. Guys get away with the occassional high concentration octane booster hero run, but if you try to boost up more than ~2 octane numbers continuously, expect to clog cats and o2 sensors if your vehicle has them. 
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Originally Posted By Muad: So, speaking about Rotella; specifically T5 15W-40. What would your recommended replacement be? I have two gas pickups (78 F250 w/400ci and 97 F350 w/460EFI) and a Ford diesel tractor that all get this stuff (they even share the same filter). I normally buy 5 gallon buckets and try to keep 10 gallons on hand. I thought Rotella was good stuff, but from seeing recent and past comments from you, I'm now looking at alternatives. Any input is appreciated. Delo 400 SDE Kendall Super DXA / P66 Guardol ECT Citgo Citguard 700 Those would be my top flavors currently. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Delo 400 SDE Kendall Super DXA / P66 Guardol ECT Citgo Citguard 700 Those would be my top flavors currently. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Muad: So, speaking about Rotella; specifically T5 15W-40. What would your recommended replacement be? I have two gas pickups (78 F250 w/400ci and 97 F350 w/460EFI) and a Ford diesel tractor that all get this stuff (they even share the same filter). I normally buy 5 gallon buckets and try to keep 10 gallons on hand. I thought Rotella was good stuff, but from seeing recent and past comments from you, I'm now looking at alternatives. Any input is appreciated. Delo 400 SDE Kendall Super DXA / P66 Guardol ECT Citgo Citguard 700 Those would be my top flavors currently. @Foxtrot08, thank you!!! ETA: Local TSC carries the 5 gallon buckets for about $25 more than the Shell. I can live with that for better protection/performance. |
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Just change the oil a few times really. Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By StarCityShooter: What about an oil treatment to clean out a 2006 John Deer 125 thats been abused? Just change the oil a few times really. 
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Originally Posted By Muad: @Foxtrot08, thank you!!! ETA: Local TSC carries the 5 gallon buckets for about $25 more than the Shell. I can live with that for better protection/performance. Originally Posted By Muad: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Originally Posted By Muad: So, speaking about Rotella; specifically T5 15W-40. What would your recommended replacement be? I have two gas pickups (78 F250 w/400ci and 97 F350 w/460EFI) and a Ford diesel tractor that all get this stuff (they even share the same filter). I normally buy 5 gallon buckets and try to keep 10 gallons on hand. I thought Rotella was good stuff, but from seeing recent and past comments from you, I'm now looking at alternatives. Any input is appreciated. Delo 400 SDE Kendall Super DXA / P66 Guardol ECT Citgo Citguard 700 Those would be my top flavors currently. @Foxtrot08, thank you!!! ETA: Local TSC carries the 5 gallon buckets for about $25 more than the Shell. I can live with that for better protection/performance. Dm me where you’re at in Ohio… cause I uh, I’m there too. Could save you some money. |
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Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Extremely overpriced is my opinion on Schaeffers. Theyre another amsoil product to me. Sure it’s decent, but you’re paying 2-3x more for something that isn’t 2-3x better. And they have a lot of gotcha’s like their 238 grease. Which isn’t compatible with anything else. Good to know. I've never seen their product for sale in my area, so have never tried it. |
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: @Foxtrot08 ...can I get in get in on this as well?  Originally Posted By Moto-M187: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: Dm me where you’re at in Ohio… cause I uh, I’m there too. Could save you some money. @Foxtrot08 ...can I get in get in on this as well? Yeah. Just, don’t ask me for a quart of something. I do everything by cases or larger quantities. |
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USA
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Originally Posted By lizARdman15: So, without watching a 30 min vid, what specific name brands of fuel additive do you recommend. I have never put anything in oil. I can tell you for a fact that straight Lucas fuel conditioner works on a '94 Chevy 6.5 diesel engine injector system. No affiliation to the company but I have had good luck with their product in both gas and diesel engines with higher than normal concentrations. |
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you.