Posted: 8/8/2026 1:20:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Thump_rrr][Edited]
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I have a heavily modded 2005 Mustang GT 4.6L 3V which I've owned since new. It's currently running 543hp/500tq on the stock motor with a Saleen 2.3L blower and supporting mods. In a few weeks it will be 20 years that I have installed this blower on the car. I am building a new engine for it. The only things that will be going onto the new motor from the old one are the blower and the 60lb injectors. I've had the parts on the shelf for quite a few years now and during my summer vacation I assembled everything. The new engine is stroked to 5.0L and has ported heads, blower cams, phaser limiters and ARP fasteners throuout. I have the last few pieces on the way and will probably install it in the car in the fall. All that's left is a set of valve cover gaskets, a rear main seal, pilot bearing and spark plugs. I will probably install it in the car in the fall. My question is about engine oil and break in. I have seen a lot of talk on using a conventional non synthetic oil high in ZDDP and low in detergents for engine break in. So far the only oil that I have found specifically designed for this is the Joe Gibbs Racing BR series of oils. It is a PITA for me to get it here in Canada but if there are no alternatives that are readily availble I will go this route. I haven't cut any corners on this build so now is not the time to start. The plan is to prime the gerotor pump through the offset hole in the oil filter housing then install a filter and pressurize the oiling system through the oil pressure sending unit port. Once the engine is installed I will install the new tune file and start it and confirm proper oil pressure with a mechanical gauge and run it for 30 minutes betwen 1500-2500 rpm to get it up to temp and check for any potential leaks or other issues. I will then drain the oil and filter to flush out as much of the engine assembly lube as possible. I will once again add fresh break in oil and a new filter and run it for 500 miles varying the engine rpms and boost as much as possibe. I will then drain the oil and go with a conventional oil for the first 3,000 miles before going to a synthetic. I ran a conventional oil in the original engine for the first 5,000 miles and it has served me well for the last 108,730 miles. What oil would you use and would you change anythin in the break in procedure. PS: The car has no cats which is what everyone is worried about with high ZDDP content oil. |
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I think there has always been debate on break in oil. I stopped caring after being told to remember cars like the viper, corvette and other high performance cars load mobile one into all their cars without break in and still don't have you do the first oil change till the normal time. I still do mine within the first 1k miles but that is me. I agree, on your changing it to get the assembly lube out. but beyond that, not sure it matters. as for the high zinc, I believe that was mostly about the flat lifters. I am guessing based on the year, yours has roller. |
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You don’t need the zinc. That’s a flat tapper cam thing. BUT, check all the paperwork that came with any internal aftermarket parts. When I built my 5.0 W the Harland-Sharpe roller rockers said to run zinc for the first 1000 miles. I personally feel people get too obsessed with “gotta change out that oil with assembly lube in it”. If you want it out, why did you use it in the first place? Hell, it’s probably best to leave it in a little longer. After all, it is just oil. |
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I've never had any issues with the "break it in like you're going to drive it". I've even started brand new flat tappet motors without any special oil or doing the "3000rpm for 30 minutes" thing and I didn't wipe out a lifter. Motor's still going strong 20 years later. With modern rings, you don't even need to do the "drive it at varying loads to seat the rings" thing anymore. Modern rings have finished seating by the time you let go of the key. I'd do what the previous guy said. Check the paperwork to see if they have any special instructions. It can't hurt to follow those. May just cost you a little extra money if you're doing an extra oil change or something. I like to start mine on a stand if possible. Its way easier to run them and find leaks out of the car vs fixing them after everything's back together inside the car. |