Posted: 5/26/2025 1:41:42 PM EDT
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ok - fleshing things out a little.... I have at least one indicator with no tip. Is there a practical difference to a noob between carbide and ruby tips? Parallels - Is it a big deal if you get a 6" set with a 5" vise, or a 5" set with a 6" vise? Edge finders - So many options - any reason to get more than a basic/inexpensive version to start with? |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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You need to research the indicator model number to find out what length tip it came with. The wrong length will cause accuracy problems. Sux inches is pretty standard for vices and parallels. Buy a set of thin ones as well as standard 1/16 thick. Go with a standard.200 edge finder for ease of use. Half is .100 so it’s hard to fuck that up. If I remember correctly the spindle speed should be 1100 RPM. Don’t exceed that or you will need a new edge finder. Check the manufacturer’s recommendation for speed. |
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Originally Posted By m200maker: You need to research the indicator model number to find out what length tip it came with. The wrong length will cause accuracy problems. Sux inches is pretty standard for vices and parallels. Buy a set of thin ones as well as standard 1/16 thick. Go with a standard.200 edge finder for ease of use. Half is .100 so it’s hard to fuck that up. If I remember correctly the spindle speed should be 1100 RPM. Don’t exceed that or you will need a new edge finder. Check the manufacturer’s recommendation for speed. Specific tip length on a dial indicator? Just spin the bezel to zero. You are looking for deflection. It's not a depth micrometer. Good tip on the edge finder. Bad things happen to edge finders at high RPMs. |
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: ok - fleshing things out a little.... I have at least one indicator with no tip. Is there a practical difference to a noob between carbide and ruby tips? Parallels - Is it a big deal if you get a 6" set with a 5" vise, or a 5" set with a 6" vise? Edge finders - So many options - any reason to get more than a basic/inexpensive version to start with? To me there is no need to go ruby. I don't use mine that much and I don't touch spinning material with it. I mostly use dial indicators to tram the head or check if the vice is square. With a 6" parallel set you'll have a half inch of stick out on each side of a 5" vise. That could be a benefit in some situations. As said above, get a thin set too. I like wave parallels. They can support things when the vice is more open than the width of the part but also squish down when closing the vise. They can be quite handy. I have a Starrett edge finder. As long as the one you buy has good concentricity you'll be fine. As said above 0.200" diameter is pretty standard and easy to work with. |
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A hair over $18 for a Mitutoyo 3/8, .200 edge finder. That's not as much upcharge as I expected. (The first Chinese no-names I see are $14+) I don't think I'll stretch to $37 for A Starret. Dang - $3 more for a double ended Mitutoyo with a standard .200 on one end and a conical point on the other end. Are these basic enough that a no-name 2 or 4 piece set for the same price is acceptable, or is higher quality required here? Ruby tip indicator ends seem to be about the same price as carbide. Are they generally better? It will be used on a lathe as well as a mill, so mine will definitely touch spinning metal. LIkely incredibly low speeds, but still spinning. I also get the impression I should take my indicator to Home Depot and test it on the bolt size checker before I order. Prudence and Doing It Right and such. Recommendations for 1/16 and smaller parallels? The sets I'm seeing are 1/8 and 1/32, with a few 3/16. Wavy spring steel parallels? I see a set marked 1/8. Just how flat can you compress these and have them bounce back? |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: A hair over $18 for a Mitutoyo 3/8, .200 edge finder. That's not as much upcharge as I expected. (The first Chinese no-names I see are $14+) I don't think I'll stretch to $37 for A Starret. Dang - $3 more for a double ended Mitutoyo with a standard .200 on one end and a conical point on the other end. Are these basic enough that a no-name 2 or 4 piece set for the same price is acceptable, or is higher quality required here? Ruby tip indicator ends seem to be about the same price as carbide. Are they generally better? It will be used on a lathe as well as a mill, so mine will definitely touch spinning metal. LIkely incredibly low speeds, but still spinning. I also get the impression I should take my indicator to Home Depot and test it on the bolt size checker before I order. Prudence and Doing It Right and such. Recommendations for 1/16 and smaller parallels? The sets I'm seeing are 1/8 and 1/32, with a few 3/16. Wavy spring steel parallels? I see a set marked 1/8. Just how flat can you compress these and have them bounce back? Mitutoyo is good stuff. I use a dual indicator on the lathe too with the 4 jaw. I move the lathe by hand. Wave parallels can be flattened all the way and come back. 1/8 thick wave parallels? That's crazy thick. Mine are maybe 0.030" thick. |
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Originally Posted By Deerhurst: Specific tip length on a dial indicator? Just spin the bezel to zero. You are looking for deflection. It's not a depth micrometer. Originally Posted By Deerhurst: Originally Posted By m200maker: You need to research the indicator model number to find out what length tip it came with. The wrong length will cause accuracy problems. Sux inches is pretty standard for vices and parallels. Buy a set of thin ones as well as standard 1/16 thick. Go with a standard.200 edge finder for ease of use. Half is .100 so it’s hard to fuck that up. If I remember correctly the spindle speed should be 1100 RPM. Don’t exceed that or you will need a new edge finder. Check the manufacturer’s recommendation for speed. Specific tip length on a dial indicator? Just spin the bezel to zero. You are looking for deflection. It's not a depth micrometer. Not always true. If you are tramming a head, zeroing a hole, truing up a part in a chuck, etc where all the readings are zero then any length will do. If you are making comparative measurements such as setting a taper or checking flatness then the proper length tip is best for accurate measurements. |
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you.
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Originally Posted By Spaceboy: Get an audible one, you'll really appreciate the audible feedback. When the edge breaks it clicks. ... There is no need for ruby or carbide indicator tips, they are not really a wear item. Originally Posted By Spaceboy: Get an audible one, you'll really appreciate the audible feedback. When the edge breaks it clicks. ... There is no need for ruby or carbide indicator tips, they are not really a wear item. Originally Posted By Deerhurst: ... Wave parallels can be flattened all the way and come back. 1/8 thick wave parallels? That's crazy thick. Mine are maybe 0.030" thick. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
|
Originally Posted By Cycolac: Not always true. If you are tramming a head, zeroing a hole, truing up a part in a chuck, etc where all the readings are zero then any length will do. If you are making comparative measurements such as setting a taper or checking flatness then the proper length tip is best for accurate measurements. That is something I generally use a different tool for. Still, comparitive measurements, set a zero and go. That's why you can zero a digital or dial indicator anywhere. The distance to "zero" won't change when you move the indicator in and out. Unless it's a garbage indicator. |
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Originally Posted By Cycolac: Not always true. If you are tramming a head, zeroing a hole, truing up a part in a chuck, etc where all the readings are zero then any length will do. If you are making comparative measurements such as setting a taper or checking flatness then the proper length tip is best for accurate measurements. Originally Posted By Cycolac: Originally Posted By Deerhurst: Originally Posted By m200maker: You need to research the indicator model number to find out what length tip it came with. The wrong length will cause accuracy problems. Sux inches is pretty standard for vices and parallels. Buy a set of thin ones as well as standard 1/16 thick. Go with a standard.200 edge finder for ease of use. Half is .100 so it’s hard to fuck that up. If I remember correctly the spindle speed should be 1100 RPM. Don’t exceed that or you will need a new edge finder. Check the manufacturer’s recommendation for speed. Specific tip length on a dial indicator? Just spin the bezel to zero. You are looking for deflection. It's not a depth micrometer. Not always true. If you are tramming a head, zeroing a hole, truing up a part in a chuck, etc where all the readings are zero then any length will do. If you are making comparative measurements such as setting a taper or checking flatness then the proper length tip is best for accurate measurements. Different indicators exist for that reason. If I need an exact measurement a travel dial is the tool of choice, indicating a vise or part in a 4 jaw a test indicator works just fine. |
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