Posted: 3/5/2025 3:33:29 PM EDT
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I'm looking at doing a few 80% lowers and the instructions (PDF here call for an angle plate for part of it. Would something like this work or should I get an angle plate? I'm guessing the below method wouldn't be rigid enough? |
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Originally Posted By M4BlackRifle: I use an 80% Jig and clamp it in the vise. If you don't tear up the top plates, you can re-sell it. Are there any steel ones available or only aluminum? I planned on making the fixtures on the last few pages of the PDF as a starting project. |
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Originally Posted By M4BlackRifle: I use an 80% Jig and clamp it in the vise. If you don't tear up the top plates, you can re-sell it. |
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Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Are there any steel ones available or only aluminum? I am not sure if there are. If you keep the jig clean of chips when you load it, and don't crash, an aluminum jig should last well past 50 completed projects. |
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Just for fun I'm printing this one to see how it works since I can't use my mill for a bit yet (cats are in the shop for the winter and they'll freak out). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1009787 |
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Originally Posted By jhoyda1: For which step? The directions you linked to are for all the machining on a forging. I’ve made lowers from a solid chunk of 7075. You can get away with marginal work holding if you’re conservative with the feeds and speeds. Chapters 3 and 10 are what I see that pertain to an 80% lower. |
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Do you have a vise on your mill? For 80’s I always found that was the easiest. For the trigger pin and safety holes you can bank the flat, top surface of the lower against the non moveable jaw. You will need to make a spacer to clamp against the area where the trigger slot is machined. You can’t clamp against the ears that hold the trigger guard. It will crush. |
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Originally Posted By jhoyda1: Do you have a vise on your mill? For 80’s I always found that was the easiest. For the trigger pin and safety holes you can bank the flat, top surface of the lower against the non moveable jaw. You will need to make a spacer to clamp against the area where the trigger slot is machined. You can’t clamp against the ears that hold the trigger guard. It will crush. Yeah I have a Kurt DX4 on the mill. I thought about that but I’m scared to drill into the vise 
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Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Yeah I have a Kurt DX4 on the mill. I thought about that but I’m scared to drill into the vise Haha. I would recommend drilling from both the left and right sides- don’t drill all the way through from one side. Sometimes drills, especially small ones, will walk on you and won’t drill perpendicular all the way through. |
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I decided that someday I'll wish I had an angle plate so I went with these as they're cheap compared to their new price of $450 each. The little bit of surface discoloration will come off with some #0000 steel wool and oil. https://www.ebay.com/itm/156748224625 |