Posted: 12/9/2025 7:55:11 AM EDT
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What are the options / what do you do to keep humidity between 40% and 60% for your acoustic guitars? I supposed it might be important for electric guitars too but I have never thought about it before. My house is forced hot air and the humidity has been about 35% for the last 2 weeks because of the heat and I need to fix that before this new guitar is damaged. I am looking for serious ideas on how to keep the humidity at the proper levels. |
Mach
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I can't believe nobody has answered this for you. Personally, I don't have anything for mine, but all of mine are solid body electrics. It's fairly stable in my kitchen / eating / dining room. I could probably use something like a general whole room humidifier / dehumidifier. I can ask my best friend, who's a luthier. He builds guitars, mostly acoustics, in my den, but he generally doesn't build them in the winter. He does it Spring, Summer, and Fall, and his long term wood storage is in his house and in a humidity controlled room. I'll ask him sometime today and see what he recommends, or you can call Sweetwater and ask them. Sweetwater is probably your best option. They'll be able to tell you and sell the product to you. |
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Originally Posted By Redman556: I can't believe nobody has answered this for you. Personally, I don't have anything for mine, but all of mine are solid body electrics. It's fairly stable in my kitchen / eating / dining room. I could probably use something like a general whole room humidifier / dehumidifier. I can ask my best friend, who's a luthier. He builds guitars, mostly acoustics, in my den, but he generally doesn't build them in the winter. He does it Spring, Summer, and Fall, and his long term wood storage is in his house and in a humidity controlled room. I'll ask him sometime today and see what he recommends, or you can call Sweetwater and ask them. Sweetwater is probably your best option. They'll be able to tell you and sell the product to you. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Will220: Mach I don't know anything about guitars and how much humidity they need, wouldn't a small humidifier be what you need if it's just for one room. |
Mach
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I keep my good acoustic in its case with Humidipaks. In the winter if the humidity drops too much I put a damp sponge in a travel soap case with holes drilled in it inside the case. This has worked well for me. I keep a small hygrometer in the case to monitor. |
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This is how you get a guitar room. First you need to know what the humidity is like where you keep your guitar…. You know… in your guitar room. I have monitors in at least three other rooms as well. |
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I use a small room humidifier in the bathroom adjacent to the room with guitars and a larger one out in the main part of the house. I shoot for 50% throughout. The automatic functions don't work IMO because they are sensing the humidity right where it is all originating. I've gotten a feel for what settings I need to keep it close depending on the conditions outside and what is going on inside. I actually have to figure out a better way to keep it down better in the summer - much easier to bring it up than dry it out. |
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Originally Posted By RickFinsta: Whole-house humidifier (Aprilaire or equivalent in your forced air system) and keep it at 40%+ all winter. I've never found the in-case units to work very well and have no experience with the single room units. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By larkinmusic: I keep my good acoustic in its case with Humidipaks. In the winter if the humidity drops too much I put a damp sponge in a travel soap case with holes drilled in it inside the case. This has worked well for me. I keep a small hygrometer in the case to monitor. My case has a hygrometer built in and I have some packs on order that should be delivered today, so i will see how that goes. I also have some more hygrometers to be delivered today that will go in my electric guitar cases, although I do not think humidity a little on the low end is that critical for electric guitars. 38% vs 40%+ as long as the wood neck doesn't dry out. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By BTccw: This is how you get a guitar room. First you need to know what the humidity is like where you keep your guitar . You know in your guitar room. I have monitors in at least three other rooms as well. Attached File |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Goostoff: I run 100% wood heat and I am sitting at a steady 48%ish. I run one of those little vaporizer things that you can put vicks vaporub shit in. https://images2.imgbox.com/ce/b2/s0fnKxWi_o.jpg I am ,as a yesterday, using a Vicks branded steam vaporizor that I found in the closet and it does bring the humidity about 42% in the room, but it runs out of water in 6 hours while I am sleeping and the humidity will start dropping immediately when the heat kicks on. I think I need a bigger one with a meter on it that will turn on and off based on what I put as a target humidity because this vaporizor works, it just doesnt last long enough. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By sywagon: I use a small room humidifier in the bathroom adjacent to the room with guitars and a larger one out in the main part of the house. I shoot for 50% throughout. The automatic functions don't work IMO because they are sensing the humidity right where it is all originating. I've gotten a feel for what settings I need to keep it close depending on the conditions outside and what is going on inside. I actually have to figure out a better way to keep it down better in the summer - much easier to bring it up than dry it out. |
Mach
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I know the 40-60% recommendation rule for acoustics. I prefer the sound at the dryer end…. Even down to 30%. When I let it sneak up to 60+ I tend to get fret buzzes and they start to sound like they are stuffed with old socks and sound like Taylor’s.
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Originally Posted By BTccw: I know the 40-60% recommendation rule for acoustics. I prefer the sound at the dryer end . Even down to 30%. When I let it sneak up to 60+ I tend to get fret buzzes and they start to sound like they are stuffed with old socks and sound like Taylor's. ![]() Right now I have gotten the room to 46% humidity but that is because it is raining and is 45 degrees instead of 14 degrees, so the dry air heat is not on as much. I guess this is not as much as an issue as I originally thought. I think can put that humidifier on a wifi switch and use the humidity reading from the Airgradient sensor and Home Assistant home automation to turn the humidifier on and off to moderate the humidity in that room. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Mach: I thought below 40% long term would result in dryness damage. maybe I should not be concerned with 35% humidity in the winter. Right now I have gotten the room to 46% humidity but that is because it is raining and is 45 degrees instead of 14 degrees, so the dry air heat is not on as much. I guess this is not as much as an issue as I originally thought. I think can put that humidifier on a wifi switch and use the humidity reading from the Airgradient sensor and Home Assistant home automation to turn the humidifier on and off to moderate the humidity in that room. Originally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By BTccw: I know the 40-60% recommendation rule for acoustics. I prefer the sound at the dryer end . Even down to 30%. When I let it sneak up to 60+ I tend to get fret buzzes and they start to sound like they are stuffed with old socks and sound like Taylor's. ![]() Right now I have gotten the room to 46% humidity but that is because it is raining and is 45 degrees instead of 14 degrees, so the dry air heat is not on as much. I guess this is not as much as an issue as I originally thought. I think can put that humidifier on a wifi switch and use the humidity reading from the Airgradient sensor and Home Assistant home automation to turn the humidifier on and off to moderate the humidity in that room. Also, my Taylor sounds EPIC ![]() ![]() (seriously though, it does) |
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I now have my home automation system controlling the humidity in the media / movie / guitar room, ie family room.. The sensor turns the humidifier on when the humidity drops below 44% and turns it off when the humidity rises above 46%. I may need a larger spread and or higher low point and or turn it on when the heat comes on, because when the heat comes on, the humidifier can not keep up with the air being dried out, but I am going to run it like this for a few days to see what happens and adjust the on and off points appropriately. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By sywagon: I'd listen to standard best practices and manufacturer recommendations, not individual anecdotes. They are for reasons. If a guitar is playing better all dried out, the setup needs to be adjusted. I personally think 40-60 is pretty broad. I prefer 45-55 as a general rule. I'd personally avoid the 30% level for anything other than a short period like the plague. Also, my Taylor sounds EPIC ![]() ![]() (seriously though, it does) |
Mach
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Originally Posted By sywagon: Hey now! https://i.imgur.com/jcAKeOe.jpeg (sounds like your guitar might need a truss adjustment to play properly at normal humidity) Originally Posted By sywagon: Originally Posted By BTccw: I know the 40-60% recommendation rule for acoustics. I prefer the sound at the dryer end . Even down to 30%. When I let it sneak up to 60+ I tend to get fret buzzes and they start to sound like they are stuffed with old socks and sound like Taylor's. ![]() https://i.imgur.com/jcAKeOe.jpeg (sounds like your guitar might need a truss adjustment to play properly at normal humidity) Being in AZ vs FL ND is all different humidity levels and different ways of managing it. that is a nice looking Taylor. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By RickFinsta: Whole-house humidifier (Aprilaire or equivalent in your forced air system) and keep it at 40%+ all winter. I've never found the in-case units to work very well and have no experience with the single room units. This. They're pretty easy to install and work great. Nothing to refill, just turn set the humidistat to 40% and make sure your air handler runs enough to keep the air in the entire house circulated. |
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Originally Posted By sywagon: Originally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By sywagon: I'd listen to standard best practices and manufacturer recommendations, not individual anecdotes. They are for reasons. If a guitar is playing better all dried out, the setup needs to be adjusted. I personally think 40-60 is pretty broad. I prefer 45-55 as a general rule. I'd personally avoid the 30% level for anything other than a short period like the plague. Also, my Taylor sounds EPIC ![]() ![]() (seriously though, it does) It's an 816ce Builder's Edition. https://i.imgur.com/sG7oC9W.jpg |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Mach: I thought so. There is one of those for sale close to me. Made 2 years after yours. i have been considering going to look at it, but if I do I suspect it would be hard to walk away without it and I dont know if I trust myself to be able to know if it is real and it has no issues. Originally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By sywagon: Originally Posted By Mach: Originally Posted By sywagon: I'd listen to standard best practices and manufacturer recommendations, not individual anecdotes. They are for reasons. If a guitar is playing better all dried out, the setup needs to be adjusted. I personally think 40-60 is pretty broad. I prefer 45-55 as a general rule. I'd personally avoid the 30% level for anything other than a short period like the plague. Also, my Taylor sounds EPIC ![]() ![]() (seriously though, it does) It's an 816ce Builder's Edition. https://i.imgur.com/sG7oC9W.jpg I have experience with a lot of acoustics over the years - e.g. I owned a '64 J45 and a Martin in the past (don't recall what exact model that one was 40 years ago). The only one I've ever played that lived up to it tone wise in person was a particular Golden Era Martin I helped a friend pick out back in the late 90's. That particular GE my friend never managed humidity around at all. He didn't have any AC until recently so it was wet all summer, and then really dry all winter (wood stove). It has a number of issues - the obvious ones I recall when I played with him this year is that bridge is significantly lifted & the action is really high. It would need a full refurbishment with a neck reset for me to be able to use it at all (he just plays chords at the nut strumming hard mostly so he's okay with it). It makes me sad because it was a VERY special individual example. AZ would have its own challenges for sure, but regardless of the factory setups being done when stabilized in the 45-55 range and therefore that being a good target for us, 30% is so dry cracks can form and serious structural damage can occur. I think you chose the best option. It's really nice to be able to just leave stuff out on the stand in the main room and have it be the same humidity as the case & storage area. The automation idea sounds cool. |
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Well, I went a different route. For $25 I built a manual on and off humidifier that is regulated by my Home Assistant home automation system with a very accurate Air Gradient sensor package as the humidity sensor. If the documentation is correct, with the 2 ultrasonic foggers, it should put out about 750ml of water per hour. I made it out of a 5 gallon bucket and some PVC pipe with 2 floating ultrasonic foggers and a 12 volt computer fan with a speed controller. It works great, but I made it with a 1.5 inch PVC outlet pipe and it isn't enough, even at the minimum fan setting, I am still getting back pressure through the fan ( with the fan on, air is back flowing through the fan to the outside ) so I am going to upgrade it to 2 inch or 3 inch outflow pipe. I made one because I wanted a large water capacity and did not want it to have electronics so I could completely control it with a WiFi AC switch to turn it on and off and set my own on and off humidity set points. The type with electronics will shut off and if power interupts, will not turn back on because the on / off is microprocessor controlled. With my home made humidifier, when the power comes back it it will start again automatically. With the current 1.5 inch mist outflow pipe, and it being 14 degrees outside with the heat on alot, it can not keep the humidity above 40% when the heat is on ( forced hot air ). I am hoping a 2 inch or 3 inch mist pipe will be able to keep up by having less restriction and more airflow but may need to add another ultrasonic fog maker or 2. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Mach: I have a humidifier in the room, though it has no door, and am waiting to see if it makes a difference, but this is an unregulated device meaning it may not be enough or or could be too much. Wondering if I need to get a humidifier and dehumidifier that will work or not work based on current humidity. Originally Posted By Mach: I have a humidifier in the room, though it has no door, and am waiting to see if it makes a difference, but this is an unregulated device meaning it may not be enough or or could be too much. Wondering if I need to get a humidifier and dehumidifier that will work or not work based on current humidity. Originally Posted By Mach: I have a humidifier in the room, though it has no door, and am waiting to see if it makes a difference, but this is an unregulated device meaning it may not be enough or or could be too much. Wondering if I need to get a humidifier and dehumidifier that will work or not work based on current humidity. Even cheap AirOSwiss humidifiers have a humidistat. Now dehumidifiers, especially permanent ones, are $$$. I have an Ultra-Aire MD33 in my gun room. Highly recommend. I turned it on and set the desired humidity 5.5 years ago and haven't touched it since. |
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Well using an ultrasonic humidifier was a failed experiment. Due to minerals in the water. I have a PH neutralizer that puts calcium and magnesium in the well water to raise the PH from 5.5 to 7.2 to keep the water from eating the pipes and fixtures. As a result the ultrasonic humidifier throws not just water into the air but also those minerals in the water causing indoor air particulate pollution that can damage lungs. Here is the screen shot from my AirGradient sensor on particulate matter in the room. Usually these number are very close to zero if not zero. From what I have read, this is very unhealthy and my wife already has asthma. So I am no longer using the humidifier. When I was using the Vicks vaporizer that boils the water and releases steam, there was no significant increase in particulate sensor readings, so I don't think these numbers are the result of sensing the increased humidity. I let the humidity drop and the numbers did not clear up until I opened the windows and used a fan to blow in fresh air and blow out the air in the room and the house. The particulates had migrated into the master bedroom on the other side of the house too. Online sources say this is a major issue that people are unaware of if they do not have a particulate sensor and the solution is to use distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or use a steam humidifier because the steam makes water vapor without particulates in it much like a still removes particulates. I was using about 2.5 gallons per day, so buying distilled water would add up pretty quick. i do have a reverse osmosis system I have not installed yet, so that might be the long term solution, installing that and using the RO water or I just thought of using the untreated well water before the device that puts calcium and magnesium into the water and see how that works out. Although the particulate count in the air went way up, I have not seen any white dust on anything in the room as others online report. As of now, I think the guitars will be removed from the media room and put in a small bedroom with the steam vapor humidifier and I will see how that works. The steam humidifier does not put out enough water for the media room. I need to modify it for a bigger tank to hold more water though, I think. I will see how that option goes. So if you are using an ultrasonic humidifier ( cool mist type ) you need to be very careful First pic is with the steam humidifier. Second pic is why I had to air out the room due to the ultrasonic humidifier..If anybody thinks these numbers are strictly due to water vapor and not minerals, please tell me why and how I can confirm that. Attached File Attached File |
Mach
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| You could get an RO system or a zero water filter off Amazon to pull that stuff out. At the end of the day you're going to have to pull it out one way or the other. Evaporative could do it but those are much, much less efficient at getting moisture into the air. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: You could get an RO system or a zero water filter off Amazon to pull that stuff out. At the end of the day you're going to have to pull it out one way or the other. Evaporative could do it but those are much, much less efficient at getting moisture into the air. |
Mach
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Huh, my wife has really bad asthma too. Our well water is super low in minerals though and they don't seem to bother her. I should get a way to measure though. ETA - I also run the furnace air handler fan 24/7 with a MERV 11 filter. |
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Originally Posted By sywagon: Huh, my wife has really bad asthma too. Our well water is super low in minerals though and they don't seem to bother her. I should get a way to measure though. ETA - I also run the furnace air handler fan 24/7 with a MERV 11 filter. so.. I am going to pick up a few gallons of distilled water and use that for a day or 2 and see if I get the same particulate measurements form the sensor or not. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By Mach: After investigating further, the particulate matter being picked up by the sensors might just be micro water particles and not minerals. Steam is a vapor and I was using the vicks steam vaporizer as a test to see if it was just water, but steam is a vapor not a particle and the ultrasonic humidifiers actually put out mirco droplets of water, not wapor so.. I am going to pick up a few gallons of distilled water and use that for a day or 2 and see if I get the same particulate measurements form the sensor or not. Well, I can tell you from personal experience that there certainly can be plenty of minerals still in the mist produced by the mist-style humidifiers when you use something other than distilled or RO-purified water. I know this because you can end up with deposits on surfaces in the room where such a humidifier is used. |
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DAdarrio humidity control. Uses 2 49% boveda packs. One in the soundhole and one under the headstock of my D18. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Walkure: Well, I can tell you from personal experience that there certainly can be plenty of minerals still in the mist produced by the mist-style humidifiers when you use something other than distilled or RO-purified water. I know this because you can end up with deposits on surfaces in the room where such a humidifier is used. Originally Posted By Walkure: Originally Posted By Mach: After investigating further, the particulate matter being picked up by the sensors might just be micro water particles and not minerals. Steam is a vapor and I was using the vicks steam vaporizer as a test to see if it was just water, but steam is a vapor not a particle and the ultrasonic humidifiers actually put out mirco droplets of water, not wapor so.. I am going to pick up a few gallons of distilled water and use that for a day or 2 and see if I get the same particulate measurements form the sensor or not. Well, I can tell you from personal experience that there certainly can be plenty of minerals still in the mist produced by the mist-style humidifiers when you use something other than distilled or RO-purified water. I know this because you can end up with deposits on surfaces in the room where such a humidifier is used. |
Mach
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Originally Posted By rod727: DAdarrio humidity control. Uses 2 49% boveda packs. One in the soundhole and one under the headstock of my D18. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/134638/IMG_6303_jpeg-3681585.JPG |
Mach
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