Posted: 9/16/2026 4:04:26 PM EDT
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First, I have not calibrated, so this is the thread I ask a few Q's. Sometimes when I make the kids toys, usually something with gears or built in bearings like fidget spinners or something of that nature- sometimes the gears, treads, or bearings will be attached to it's next in line part, but not every piece. I made a tank tread fidget with tracks and rollers at each end. Most of the tracks were fine, a few had attached to the next in line. Same with the 'wheels' or cogs. One was fine, the other attached to the axle. Basically the question is: which calibration would take care of this, or is calibration kind of al all in one. Am I looking at Z, X, Y, or something else in the menu of adjustments, also, does a calibration at regular speed and .2 layer transfer to slow speed and .15 layers like a suppressor or something I want to be strong. Perhaps it's to do with the flow? |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
Jul 2008
Posts:
32213
EE: 100% (5)
MN, USA
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For the pa6, you really need an enclosure to get layer adhesion, despite it not being required to squirt the plastic. Calibrate extruder steps, temps, jerk, extrusion multiplier, retractions, make sure you steer on the latest slicer version. Build a profile for the exact filaments you are going to use, make sure you save and keep notes. Make sure everything on the machine is tight, belt tension good, etc. The mk3 toolhead is a chunky girl, and petg that it is made out of will let the screws loosen over not as much time as you think. If you have never, a full toolhead teardown and service is a good idea. Vibra tite vc3 is your friend. Don't forget to check extruder drive gear grub screws for tightness, after you check filament alignment. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: For the pa6, you really need an enclosure to get layer adhesion, despite it not being required to squirt the plastic. Calibrate extruder steps, temps, jerk, extrusion multiplier, retractions, make sure you steer on the latest slicer version. Build a profile for the exact filaments you are going to use, make sure you save and keep notes. Make sure everything on the machine is tight, belt tension good, etc. The mk3 toolhead is a chunky girl, and petg that it is made out of will let the screws loosen over not as much time as you think. If you have never, a full toolhead teardown and service is a good idea. Vibra tite vc3 is your friend. Don't forget to check extruder drive gear grub screws for tightness, after you check filament alignment. MK4s if it matters, I'll see if the y have the same heads though. Thanks for the tips, does the Calibration thread have most of the types of calibrations needed? I did do a belt tension yesterday and tightened a few screw here and there, none were loose, but a few weren't exactly tight. |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
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Sorry, I had it in my head you had the MK3s. MK4s will be better on the toolhead. Prusa 32 bit based printers are actually very accurate, so extrusion modifier is going to be the big one. Chamber for PA6 still counts through, even if just a passive chamber. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..