Posted: 8/20/2026 9:36:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: urbanredneck][Edited]
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I have a shore power connection on my camper, 30amp. But I want to make it more capable for remote camping with solar/generator. I have a 1200 watt tail gate generator I can use now. I would think that typical use would be for lighting, car fridge/cooler and running the roof fan, maybe a small ceramic heater and outside possibility of a small window AC unit. Would a power station be the best option? Running the generator or solar into it for charging and operation? Or would running a Lithium battery with an all in one inverter LIKE THIS be a better option? I'm trying to get up to speed on these set ups and how they function when it comes to supplying power while in use but also taking a charge input from solar or generator during operation. |
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When you say electric heater and AC unit things get challenging. With those two, even small ones, I think you are going to struggle. My camper is 99% unplugged and remote. So I have to bring in my own water and power. I rely on inverter units to keep the fuel and noise down. You can do what you are saying but are you planning to store power into a battery bank? |
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For boondocking, we forego the A/C and microwave. Everything else works. We have a 2020 Coachmen apex nano 187RB, came with the off-grid and outfitter packages, which gave us a shower miser, 100w solar panel, and a crap charge controller. We have since upgraded several things. Added 2x 100ah LifePo4 batteries (in parallel). Went with 4x100w solar panels in series, and a 40A MPPT charge controller capable of 100v PV input. Upgraded the converter to a LiFePo4 capable one so it will fully charge the batteries on shore power. The charge controller only connects to the batteries, and the batteries run back to the fuse panel (integrated with the circuit breakers and converter, small unit). Also added a hardwired EMS behind the converter, so we don't need one at the power pedestal anymore. Has a small display with voltage, amperage, frequency and faults. Our fridge is 110v/propane (12v just for the control board). Our water heater is 110v/propane (again, 12v for control board). Our furnace is propane (12v control board). They all will run forever as long as we have propane. The 400w of solar will fully recharge the batteries, even in October, and at night while using the furnace, the batteries didn't drop below 13v. I installed a small inverter for the TV (the main board didn't have a separate power supply for me to wire a 12v jack into) so it can run off of 12v if we want to. As far as a generator, we use a 2000w (peak) firman unit. We installed an Easy Start in the A/C, so that small generator will run it. If we're running off the generator and using A/C, we have to remember to set the fridge to propane only, and obviously use the water heater on propane only. We can use the microwave with the generator, but not at the same time as the A/C. Unless we get out the 3200w generator, then we're good. But it's twice the size, weight, and we usually don't bring it. We bought a Renogy charge controller, Renogy panels, BougeRV solar connectors & tool kit, whatever brand 10ga solar wire, Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C EMS, And the WF-7835 converter. |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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Originally Posted By Dopple: For boondocking, we forego the A/C and microwave. Â Everything else works. We have a 2020 Coachmen apex nano 187RB, came with the off-grid and outfitter packages, which gave us a shower miser, 100w solar panel, and a crap charge controller. Same, and I have a 2022 Apex Nano. The 200w panel and an AGM battery is enough to power everything, though the fridge is marginal. I want to add another couple of panels to charge the battery faster. As backups, I have both an Anker Solix battery bank and 200w panel, plus a Predator 'suitcase' generator (that can power the A/C). Both just get plugged into the shore power connection. All cooking is done on propane/MAPP canister burners, and I think we've used the microwave once. |
Don't forget about the Trail of Beers Happy Hour!
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Some great info up there. My experience with a basic 20’ camper off grid was a 100w panel was barely enough for 4 days. And that was with my extension cables getting the panel full sun. If you go roof mount you better cover the roof with them cause shade makes a huge difference . |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
| I said outside possibility of using AC because I have no intent on camping on hot weather. However FL is hot AF and when I go hunting I usually find myself to be miserable hit in the afternoon. But the campground has power so I'll be set with him ups. But if I ever actually go somewhere it will likely be cool. I'm thinking I will probably not need more than a diesel heater, electric cooler., lights and charging. Cooking and hot water are propane. |
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Originally Posted By DVCER: Some great info up there. My experience with a basic 20' camper off grid was a 100w panel was barely enough for 4 days. And that was with my extension cables getting the panel full sun. If you go roof mount you better cover the roof with them cause shade makes a huge difference . |
Award: 24/365 Most likely to be an appendix.
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
"Dealing with Congress is like trying to have an adult conversation about the credit card with your alcoholic bi-polar Ukranian import wife."
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My camper is a tear drop sized camper so I only have room for maybe 2 panels on the roof. Watched a few vids and think I'm going to go with a power station since space is a factor and power stations have everything built in. So now I have to settle on a size. 600w to 1800w... I have a the tail gator I can use with it and I can pick up a couple of panels in the future. Running a few LED lights, phone chargers, 12v car fridge and maybe a diesel heater. |
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I don't mount panels to the camper anymore. They overheat in the sun, lose efficiency/service life and you can actually feel the ceiling getting hot to the touch inside. Does not do your roof coating any favors either. I use a 200 Watt portable panel setup on a stand, two deep cycle batteries and a 3500 inverter generator to power the AC, TV and microwave. |
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Go buy a harbor freight 3500 or 5k watt generator and be done. The 3500 has zero issues powering my entire camper like it’s plugged into shore power ac and all. When hunting in northern mo we have to run the generator all night when it’s in the teens or below to run the plumbing heat. It’s all 12v but it’s much more cost effective to use a couple gallons of gas and have a $700 generator. Or it’s above freezing I can go 3 days running the heater off two golf cart batteries and no generator. If my wife’s with me that turns into one night. |
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Originally Posted By DVCER: Have you swapped out the incandescent bulbs in the camper with led? Â Amazon has them cheap, and they draw a lot less power. Only lighting in the trailer is small LED triple A lights. Picked up an LED string to use with a power bank for the awning. Probably get a second string to go with that. Small 500 w ceramic heater and an electric cooler that can run at 45W would probably be the two biggest draws that I would have in the weather that I would want to camp in. And do away with the heater for a diesel heater would put that at about 25 watts for heat, give or take. |