Posted: 4/5/2026 8:58:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mvintx][Edited]
|
After having several print failures with the textured plate - even with Bambu's printing adhesive, I decided to give the cool plate a try. They claim no adhesive is required so I printed Obsessed's cereal box desiccant packs, just two on the plate like the original file, using PLA 2.0. One (the right one in three cases) broke loose from the plate and made a huge spaghetti mess. OK, I thought. Let's try PETG. Same thing happened. Put the textured plate back in with hair spray and used Polycraft ASA. I'm thinking maybe the higher temps would help secure the item to the plate. Nope, I could see the edges start to curl up after about 20 layers of material. Stopped that print, pulled the plate, washed and dried it and gave it a light coat of hair spray, switched back to PLA 2.0, slowed the speed down to 200. It's printing now, about 1/4 of the way through and it looks like both items are nice and flat around the edges where they contact the plate. We'll see how it goes from here. I'm thinking the very small contact area of the desiccant holder makes it imperative there is a good bond. I can't believe I got away with printing 8 of these things on one plate. I thought just 2 would be a piece of cake. Yes, the filaments were dry...at least the hygrometers read 10% in my dry boxes, as well as in the AMS. Anyone out there have experience with the Cool Plate? 
|
|
I have a cool plate supertack pro and haven't used it yet. Now I'm tempted just to see what happens. The writeup for it makes it sound like you shouldn't use any helpers for adhesion. Is your printer on a solid surface? I've printed as many as 6 desiccant holders on one job with my P2S and never had a failure. I'm using Sunlu PETG though for my prints. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
|
Originally Posted By turtle2472: I have a cool plate supertack pro and haven't used it yet. Now I'm tempted just to see what happens. The writeup for it makes it sound like you shouldn't use any helpers for adhesion. Is your printer on a solid surface? I've printed as many as 6 desiccant holders on one job with my P2S and never had a failure. I'm using Sunlu PETG though for my prints. The two I printed last night on the textured plate (P2S) came out just fine. I used a little Aqua Net hairspray for insurance. Like I mentioned earlier I had printed 8 of the desiccant holders on one textured plate without a problem. Perhaps the plate was contaminated somehow. I think I'll just use the cool plate for items that have a large contact area. Printed some labels this morning and they came out great but they're hard to get off the plate. It takes a little gentle persuasion with your bed scraper tool. And yes, the printer is on a solid stand. It still shakes a little...that might have something to do with it. |
|
Originally Posted By mvintx: The two I printed last night on the textured plate (P2S) came out just fine. I used a little Aqua Net hairspray for insurance. Like I mentioned earlier I had printed 8 of the desiccant holders on one textured plate without a problem. Perhaps the plate was contaminated somehow. I think I'll just use the cool plate for items that have a large contact area. Printed some labels this morning and they came out great but they're hard to get off the plate. It takes a little gentle persuasion with your bed scraper tool. And yes, the printer is on a solid stand. It still shakes a little...that might have something to do with it. Originally Posted By mvintx: Originally Posted By turtle2472: I have a cool plate supertack pro and haven't used it yet. Now I'm tempted just to see what happens. The writeup for it makes it sound like you shouldn't use any helpers for adhesion. Is your printer on a solid surface? I've printed as many as 6 desiccant holders on one job with my P2S and never had a failure. I'm using Sunlu PETG though for my prints. The two I printed last night on the textured plate (P2S) came out just fine. I used a little Aqua Net hairspray for insurance. Like I mentioned earlier I had printed 8 of the desiccant holders on one textured plate without a problem. Perhaps the plate was contaminated somehow. I think I'll just use the cool plate for items that have a large contact area. Printed some labels this morning and they came out great but they're hard to get off the plate. It takes a little gentle persuasion with your bed scraper tool. And yes, the printer is on a solid stand. It still shakes a little...that might have something to do with it. They're supposed to shake, if you think the P2S shakes wait until you see an H2D running......it could get a side job as a margarita mixer.  I'll channel Obsessed a little bit.....have you calibrated your filament? Since you've had failures with different plates & filaments, I wonder if your temps are off a bit. I've found some of Bambu's stock profiles run a little cool. I don't have the Cool Super Tack Plate, so I'm not sure how it differs from the smooth Engineering Plate but bed heat is everything on the engineering plate. As long as the bed is hot enough prints stick well....as soon as it cools off a few degrees you'd swear the print moved just from the wind created when opening the door. I'd try bumping your bed temp up 5 degrees at a time and see if your adhesion improves. The only time I add anything to the Engineering Plate is when I print TPU....and that's to help it release, not stick. |
EP429: Today's lesson - Don't provoke ARFCOM. People will see your butthole.
| That's strange. It is my go to plate for a lot of my printing. Never had a fail unless I forgot to change the plate selection option. Only wash and occasionally IPA between prints but haven't had to use any extra adhesive on it. PLA or PETG doesn't matter, same results. |
| I finally gave my cool plate a try last night and I love it. I wanted to do some 3-gang switch plates and the textured PEI doesn't create a good look for switch plates. I cleaned the cool plate and gave it a go. It was perfect. Then I did another in the Lutron hidden screw decora design and it came out pretty amazing. Granted, these are low to the heat bed and fairly quick. I did notice my prints came off easier while the plate was warmer than it did for the one that sat in the printer all night. I was able to peal it off, but it needed convincing to let go. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”
| I am not sure about the original one for the X1/P1 but the Super Tack Cool Plate for the H2C is almost to sticky. Printed a container lid and thought I wasn't going to be able to get the thing off. Will try using a little glue next time to help release. |
Y'all can go to hell, I'll go to Idaho.
| Is it the only smooth option for P2S? I think the Engineering plate might be smooth too but haven't checked really. |
Louis L'Amour, “To make democracy work, we must be a nation of participants, not simply observers. One who does not vote has no right to complain.”