Posted: 7/21/2026 12:13:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bmarshall1][Edited]
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Mods- if this belongs in DIY Suppressors, please move ETA: I did find some more info hidden in the STL file, reading it now and it might answer a few of my questions. Give a guy an assist here, thanks, I'm a bit confused with all the updates, versions etc... Maybe this will help other out as well. I have read all the Read-Me and now even more confused. I'll be going back through the read me but sometimes a point in the right direction helps a lot. I'm looking to print a rifle, 556 can. Apparently there is a Flow and non flow, but are about the same effectiveness?? Is there a 'simpler' version, is there a version that's most effective, is there a smaller (K) version? -So it looks like the Breek is no longer available, is there a version that uses a simple 5/8-24 to 3/4-16 like the other cans do, is there a Breek alternative or work around, can I print something like a mount? -I'm also confused if they still need an outside tube or not, I'm not terribly worried about longevity, but certainly want more than a few magazines worth of fun, maybe a bit of (very) limited FRT. A buddy did a 22 both flow and not and although the flow 22 is slightly louder than the non-flow, it's quite a bit more 'girthy'. Annealing, Baffle Protection, and Moisture Conditioning. I purchased PA6 20CF from Polymaker, I also bought one of their 1kg dryboxes that can dry and print at the same time. -Should I keep the filament warm while printing, I have to get some plate glue, any recommendations? Annealing- necessary or not? Put it in a hot car and leave it for a day? -I have read: shoot (the can) lightly and let it slowly cool: annealing done, or pack in salt and heat for hours? Moisture Conditioning- place in a bag with wet paper towel after printing (what about annealing in this moisture conditioning process). Where I live outside humidity is constantly 60%-100% so it will get a LOT of moisture, the house rarely gets below 50%. I thought moisture is the enemy, apparently after printing it's out friend?? -Protect the blast baffle with high temp paint? Something else?? |
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AFAIK all variants of the FTN 5 rifle cans need an outer sleeve. I personally wouldn't make a rifle can without a sleeve even if it was an option. I can't comment on the flow vs non-flow, but neither versions will make supersonic 5.56 quiet. You'll need hearing protection either way so build whichever one you feel like. Or both! You can print an insert to use a 3/4-16 to 1/2-28 or 5/8-24 thread adapter. There is one included in the download pack already. You can skip annealing if you are feeling lazy but I would make the argument that out of all the parts you could print from nylon, a rifle suppressor is the one that needs annealing the most. Annealing is going to increase heat resistance by something like 50-60% and improve layer bond strength, both of which are at the top of the list of important characteristics for a suppressor to have. Shooting it to anneal will not work. The part has to be held at 100C for around 16 hours. Salt or sand packing isn't really necessary here but you can do it and it's not going to hurt anything. Moisture conditioning after drying is important because it will restore some of the material's impact resistance properties. Lots of this info is in the pinned faq already, and you can read more here: https://wiki.polymaker.com/printing-tips/post-processing |
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Originally Posted By Blob: AFAIK all variants of the FTN 5 rifle cans need an outer sleeve. I personally wouldn't make a rifle can without a sleeve even if it was an option. I can't comment on the flow vs non-flow, but neither versions will make supersonic 5.56 quiet. You'll need hearing protection either way so build whichever one you feel like. Or both! You can print an insert to use a 3/4-16 to 1/2-28 or 5/8-24 thread adapter. There is one included in the download pack already. You can skip annealing if you are feeling lazy but I would make the argument that out of all the parts you could print from nylon, a rifle suppressor is the one that needs annealing the most. Annealing is going to increase heat resistance by something like 50-60% and improve layer bond strength, both of which are at the top of the list of important characteristics for a suppressor to have. Shooting it to anneal will not work. The part has to be held at 100C for around 16 hours. Salt or sand packing isn't really necessary here but you can do it and it's not going to hurt anything. Moisture conditioning after drying is important because it will restore some of the material's impact resistance properties. Lots of this info is in the pinned faq already, and you can read more here: https://wiki.polymaker.com/printing-tips/post-processing @Blob Thanks for the info, simple and clear information. I appreciate what Plaboi does but it seems he simply drops new information on top of old and it needs sifted through to find out what's current and best. I'm working to determine what is the best/lightest/least expensive mounting option. For great information for those not familiar, go to the Odd See, find and download the FTN.5.1 and follow the below path for a great document that outlines good info, mounting options, filament etc... FTN.5.1>STL>Rifle Suppressors> PDF |
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SLR rifleworks makes a blast shield compatible with their mini-comps and taper mounts. I plan to use one on a FTN 4.5 PCC which except for the caliber is almost identical to the FTN 5 rifle. There is a threaded insert designed by a fellow who goes by the name of 'unqualified dividend'. https://slrrifleworks.com/taper-mount-blast-shield/ https://odysee.com/@unqualified_dividend:7/Plan-B-Threaded-Insert-for-FTN.5-Rifle,-v1:2 His latest comments about the overall serviceability of a printed can for a rifle cartridge are not optimistic. His v.3 prints two halves open side down on the build plate. No supports are included in the design but I don't think it will print very well without them. I printed his v.3 with Sunlu PA6CF with Polymaker ASA for the interface. It did not turn out very well but that was my fault, not his. |
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Annealing- necessary or not? Put it in a hot car and leave it for a day? -I have read: shoot (the can) lightly and let it slowly cool: annealing done, or pack in salt and heat for hours? It'll anneal itself over a few weeks, I believe. In case you don't want to heat it up. Moisture Conditioning- place in a bag with wet paper towel after printing (what about annealing in this moisture conditioning process). Where I live outside humidity is constantly 60%-100% so it will get a LOT of moisture, the house rarely gets below 50%. I thought moisture is the enemy, apparently after printing it's out friend?? Moisture makes nylon stronger, you only dry it so you can thermoform it without flash-boiling the water. Drop it in a bowl of water overnight. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: It'll anneal itself over a few weeks, I believe. In case you don't want to heat it up. Moisture makes nylon stronger, you only dry it so you can thermoform it without flash-boiling the water. Drop it in a bowl of water overnight. I think someone here tried the immersion technique via a souse vide. I don't think it turned out very well. I think it was either Blob or Obsessed. |
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FYI there's a replacement for the Breek blast shield that's Plan B muzzle compatible. https://midstatefirearms.com/product/otx-plan-b-castle-blast-shield/ |
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I'm abandoning the my attempts at printing FTN4.5 and 5 rifle cans. Too many problems with material warping and poor print quality. Moving on to the new designs in the FTN6 suppressor pack. What I like about the FTN6 Comstock PCC and FTN6 rifle prints is this; the suppressors print upright. Big win for me since I can't get a good horizontal print to save my life. No more stupid threaded inserts that you have to print and glue in your blast shield...they were prone to failure with centerfire rifle cartridges. Instead of the threaded insert, FTN Devgru got Comstock to make a plan B hub adaptor with 1-1/2 x 8 threads that screw directly into the suppressor body. It's pricey at $100 but when I consider the cash I've thrown at other plan B parts and wasted filament, I'm all in. My hat is off to FTN6 Devgru. God Bless America. |
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The Breek Arms is now made by Mid State Firearms and uses Plan B muzzle devices. https://midstatefirearms.com/product/otx-plan-b-castle-blast-shield/ I printed a 300 Blackout suppressor using this mounting method and the printed clamshell fits perfect on it. |
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Originally Posted By FlyingIllini: When I have time I'm going to machine an adapter for the FTN6 suppressor threads to 1-3/8x24. Be advised, it is not a standard 60 degree thread form Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Be advised, it is not a standard 60 degree thread form https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/Screenshot_2026-09-12_181709_jpg-3826429.JPG Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By FlyingIllini: When I have time I'm going to machine an adapter for the FTN6 suppressor threads to 1-3/8x24. Be advised, it is not a standard 60 degree thread form https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/160722/Screenshot_2026-09-12_181709_jpg-3826429.JPG Thanks yeah I saw your comment in the other thread. The pitch seems off too, I have printed adapters and will get all the dimensions of that. |
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