Posted: 3/14/2025 5:30:26 PM EDT
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Odds are crossing 87% that I'll be getting a new PM-30mv . What are the Must Haves, the Nice to Haves, and the You Don't Want That's I should look out for while I'm shopping? I'm not sure if a drill chuck is an early or later purchase, or which of these I should like more, or why. I have a keyless on an MT3 taper, but I'm not big on disassembling things if not needed. Drill chuck LMM26https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCI3VEW?tag=arfcom00-20 Drill chuck SHARS KeyLess40https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJVXVSX?tag=arfcom00-20 Drill chuck SHARS keyed38https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0812B37X5?tag=arfcom00-20 The start of this list came from OG1's thread about milling lowers. Rather specific, but a place to start. I'm starting out with a cheap set of end mills. 8 size HSS 4 flute end mill$14https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZYJU2U?tag=arfcom00-20 r8 Collet set SHARS$46https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYOUF7Q 3/8" 3F Long Reach End Mill$24https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZGHRWVQ 1/4" 2 Flute Ball Endmill$46https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083BTGJWC/ #3 Center Drill$5https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVTKY7Q debur$7https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DSZVDV5J clamping kit$70https://www.precisionmatthews.com/products/52pcck-9-16-14mm I thought I knew what I was looking at for a vise... but checking the fine print showed a lot with what I believe to be an inch or smaller jaw heights. What are your recommendations on the width and depth I'm likely to find useful as a noob? |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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I've bought so much crap I could have bought 4 more mills. Collets, few decent carbide end mills, center/spotting drills, tap follower (and a quality tap holder), slitting saw arbor, (even cheap imports work good enough), boring head(s), indicators, bases and spindle/quill mounts (bar or clamp or both) quality drill bits, left hand too. I bought a set of ratching wrenches just for the mill. The drawbar and vise are must haves. My Milling Evolution Thread |
A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again. IG @jimstagramguns
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: Odds are crossing 87% that I'll be getting a new PM-30mv . What are the Must Haves, the Nice to Haves, and the You Don't Want That's I should look out for while I'm shopping? I'm not sure if a drill chuck is an early or later purchase, or which of these I should like more, or why. I have a keyless on an MT3 taper, but I'm not big on disassembling things if not needed. Drill chuck LMM26https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCI3VEW?tag=arfcom00-20 Drill chuck SHARS KeyLess40https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZJVXVSX?tag=arfcom00-20 Drill chuck SHARS keyed38https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0812B37X5?tag=arfcom00-20 The start of this list came from OG1's thread about milling lowers. Rather specific, but a place to start. I'm starting out with a cheap set of end mills. 8 size HSS 4 flute end mill$14https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZZYJU2U?tag=arfcom00-20 r8 Collet set SHARS$46https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYOUF7Q 3/8" 3F Long Reach End Mill$24https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZGHRWVQ 1/4" 2 Flute Ball Endmill$46https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083BTGJWC/ #3 Center Drill$5https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVTKY7Q debur$7https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DSZVDV5J clamping kit$70https://www.precisionmatthews.com/products/52pcck-9-16-14mm I thought I knew what I was looking at for a vise... but checking the fine print showed a lot with what I believe to be an inch or smaller jaw heights. What are your recommendations on the width and depth I'm likely to find useful as a noob? I bolded what I would get. Might want a pin wrench for that keyless as well. The hold down kit is probably fine. The case is not a selling point as that stuff is heavy and the case will break and fill up with swarf soon enough. Maybe see if you could find a loose kit cheaper. The endmill sets wouldn't hurt to start with, but you will find you favor a particular size most of the time and only use the others when required. So plan on buying more as you get going. Shars is typically OK stuff. They have a dud here and there. So you need to inspect things when you get them. |
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: I thought I knew what I was looking at for a vise... but checking the fine print showed a lot with what I believe to be an inch or smaller jaw heights. What are your recommendations on the width and depth I'm likely to find useful as a noob? The vise I would recommend for that size machine would be a 4" Kurt Anglock vise. Used is around $300+, new is $500+. If you want to keep it economical and realistic, you know where I'm going to go next. Here is a link below to an Amazon page that has 3 sized vises. These vises are yes, cheap. You have a selection of 3 sizes, though 4", maybe 5" are the only considerations with the mill you have. If you have the money, go Kurt. You will not regret buying it. As long as you're going to be using it. If you're just getting started and don't want to commit more money, The cheaper vises will do short term. The lower cost vises they showed on the page with the machine look fine, for cheap vises, they do come with a swivel base, which may come in handy, but it will take away Z height when using it. Good luck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CY2JH7J2?tag=arfcom00-20 |
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I'm not really impressed by kurt. My tegara vice is fine. Plenty flat/square (tegara openly publishes specs unlike Kurt so I can verify) and opens wider than even a larger Kurt. My no name vise I restored is more square and flat than the Kurt vise I use at work. For the money I'll go tegara again and use the rest of the saved cash on tooling. I've also heard good things about Orange. Make sure you have a decent set of tools for tramming the head of your machine. Then collets and cutters. Make sure your machine is trammed in. Then check it a couple more times. Power feeds are nice but not must have. |
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Originally Posted By Deerhurst: My no name vise I restored is more square and flat than the Kurt vise I use at work. Originally Posted By Deerhurst: My no name vise I restored is more square and flat than the Kurt vise I use at work. Sure, you can polish a turd to be decent. Originally Posted By Deerhurst: Make sure you have a decent set of tools for tramming the head of your machine. Then collets and cutters. Make sure your machine is trammed in. Then check it a couple more times. I don't think you looked at the machine that he bought. I'd like to know how tramming the head is going to work without shimming the vise too? That's not really tramming a head, but it's what needs to be done on machines like this. |
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Originally Posted By 67Cuda: ...I don't think you looked at the machine that he bought. ... The purchase has been delayed by unexpected expenses. ... but there's a solid rumor there might be a company bonus coming next month, so...  I do have some confusion about your meaning - "looked at the machine he bought". I blame lack of experience on not catching the meaning of that line vs the previous poster's comment. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
|
Originally Posted By 67Cuda: Sure, you can polish a turd to be decent. I don't think you looked at the machine that he bought. I'd like to know how tramming the head is going to work without shimming the vise too? That's not really tramming a head, but it's what needs to be done on machines like this. Tramming is tramming. Make your shit square. I don't care how. Just make it square. And how do you know it is square? That's right! You measure it! I know all about that shit. That is what I tram in in my garage. It's a little bigger than OPs and a little bigger than a BP Series 1 by about 75%.  Yup, my turd was a ball of rust that didn't even want to move. If it were not a ball of rust it would have been a couple hours of running the surface grinder and still better than a Kurt. Free is free! Had a LOT of fun restoring that rusty ball. |
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: I love the confidence and forward looking predictions. The purchase has been delayed by unexpected expenses. ... but there's a solid rumor there might be a company bonus coming next month, so... I do have some confusion about your meaning - "looked at the machine he bought". I blame lack of experience on not catching the meaning of that line vs the previous poster's comment. What I got from it is he is saying the machine is shit due to being "non adjustable" and implying it cannot be trammed square. It's a little guy and doesn't nod or roll the head from what I can see. If it's what you need, rock it! I will always suggest the largest machine you can house (within reason). Big machines can also do small work, all that jazz. I was going to get one of those for my place and found too good of a deal on a massive BP Series 1 tracer mill instead. What a PITA to move. You will still want to see how square the head is in X and Y and see what you can do to correct any issues you may find. Likely need to shim it. It will settle and move a little over time. Even my big BP will move over time .I'm always checking the mills at work as they move too, all Series 1 BPs. All it takes is a single crash which is frequent with maintenance running the mills at work. Thankfully they generally don't touch the favorite of my department. We still push it hard enough to make it move over time. |
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Originally Posted By 67Cuda: The vise I would recommend for that size machine would be a 4" Kurt Anglock vise. Used is around $300+, new is $500+. If you want to keep it economical and realistic, you know where I'm going to go next. Here is a link below to an Amazon page that has 3 sized vises. These vises are yes, cheap. You have a selection of 3 sizes, though 4", maybe 5" are the only considerations with the mill you have. If you have the money, go Kurt. You will not regret buying it. As long as you're going to be using it. If you're just getting started and don't want to commit more money, The cheaper vises will do short term. The lower cost vises they showed on the page with the machine look fine, for cheap vises, they do come with a swivel base, which may come in handy, but it will take away Z height when using it. Good luck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CY2JH7J2?tag=arfcom00-20 Originally Posted By 67Cuda: Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: I thought I knew what I was looking at for a vise... but checking the fine print showed a lot with what I believe to be an inch or smaller jaw heights. What are your recommendations on the width and depth I'm likely to find useful as a noob? The vise I would recommend for that size machine would be a 4" Kurt Anglock vise. Used is around $300+, new is $500+. If you want to keep it economical and realistic, you know where I'm going to go next. Here is a link below to an Amazon page that has 3 sized vises. These vises are yes, cheap. You have a selection of 3 sizes, though 4", maybe 5" are the only considerations with the mill you have. If you have the money, go Kurt. You will not regret buying it. As long as you're going to be using it. If you're just getting started and don't want to commit more money, The cheaper vises will do short term. The lower cost vises they showed on the page with the machine look fine, for cheap vises, they do come with a swivel base, which may come in handy, but it will take away Z height when using it. Good luck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CY2JH7J2?tag=arfcom00-20 I bought that exact Vevor (except with the swivel base) for my PM-833TV first and then bought a Kurt DX4 shortly after. The Kurt is tighter and nicer, however, at least my sample Vevor vise appears to be within a couple thousandths of square and the jaws are nearly perfectly aligned. I’m still not sure that the Kurt was worth 8x the price for the tolerances I need to hold but it sure is nice. I’d most likely spend the money on other tooling before buying the Kurt if I was able to do it over again. If after a few decent sized projects I felt the Vevor was holding me back then I’d look at the Kurt. |
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Originally Posted By Deerhurst: What I got from it is he is saying the machine is shit due to being "non adjustable" and implying it cannot be trammed square. ... Originally Posted By Deerhurst: What I got from it is he is saying the machine is shit due to being "non adjustable" and implying it cannot be trammed square. ... Originally Posted By 67Cuda: Your posts seem to be all over the place, but buy whatever machine you want. And good luck. I'm the machinist equivalent of a highschooler working up the nerve to get a pharmacist to unlock the case so I can buy some condoms because I might get laid this year. I'm asking weird questions because I only have the faintest clue about the topic, and most of that faint clue is on loan from the internet. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
|
Originally Posted By Deerhurst: Yup, my turd was a ball of rust that didn't even want to move. If it were not a ball of rust it would have been a couple hours of running the surface grinder and still better than a Kurt. Free is free! Had a LOT of fun restoring that rusty ball. Taking on a project like that when you have both the tools and the experience is not the same as doing it as a first timer with limited tools. I've fixed up several bench vises and a few machine vises. The one that took the longest was a new, no name 4". I spent so much time correcting that one that it would have been faster to start with raw castings. It's good now though and living on my Millrite (which is what I bought it for). |
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Parallel sets... would a newb see much value of a cheap 20 pair 1/32 set vs a 10 pair 1/32 set? A 1/32 set vs 1/16 set vs 1/8 set? (guessing 1/16 exist, see a lot of 1/32 and 1/8) |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
|
Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: Parallel sets... would a newb see much value of a cheap 20 pair 1/32 set vs a 10 pair 1/32 set? A 1/32 set vs 1/16 set vs 1/8 set? (guessing 1/16 exist, see a lot of 1/32 and 1/8) I like 1/8" and no, the set of 10 is a good start. Use them until you know what you need/want. |
A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again. IG @jimstagramguns
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Originally Posted By AFCarbon15: I like 1/8" and no, the set of 10 is a good start. Use them until you know what you need/want. Originally Posted By AFCarbon15: Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: Parallel sets... would a newb see much value of a cheap 20 pair 1/32 set vs a 10 pair 1/32 set? A 1/32 set vs 1/16 set vs 1/8 set? (guessing 1/16 exist, see a lot of 1/32 and 1/8) I like 1/8" and no, the set of 10 is a good start. Use them until you know what you need/want. I’m happy with my 1/8” set as well. |
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Originally Posted By rktman26: This is an old school tag. I just yesterday received a PM-833TV and started working on building a stand for it today(slowly). I've already got a lathe (PM-1228), so some of the tools are universal. Congrats!!! I’ve been happy with these after printing them. I’d probably go with PETG if printing them again. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6890586 |
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Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Congrats!!! I’ve been happy with these after printing them. I’d probably go with PETG if printing them again. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6890586 Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Originally Posted By rktman26: This is an old school tag. I just yesterday received a PM-833TV and started working on building a stand for it today(slowly). I've already got a lathe (PM-1228), so some of the tools are universal. Congrats!!! I’ve been happy with these after printing them. I’d probably go with PETG if printing them again. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6890586 Sweet! I'll have to play with that one. The only 3d printer I have is a Prusa Mini and the bed is to small for that one. I like Clough42's idea of printing keys to index on the table slots, and screwing them into sheet pans.  Making Table Protector Trays for the New Milling Machine https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4878847 |
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Originally Posted By rktman26: Sweet! I'll have to play with that one. The only 3d printer I have is a Prusa Mini and the bed is to small for that one. I like Clough42's idea of printing keys to index on the table slots, and screwing them into sheet pans.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzWYgwVHggEhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4878847 Originally Posted By rktman26: Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Originally Posted By rktman26: This is an old school tag. I just yesterday received a PM-833TV and started working on building a stand for it today(slowly). I've already got a lathe (PM-1228), so some of the tools are universal. Congrats!!! I’ve been happy with these after printing them. I’d probably go with PETG if printing them again. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6890586 Sweet! I'll have to play with that one. The only 3d printer I have is a Prusa Mini and the bed is to small for that one. I like Clough42's idea of printing keys to index on the table slots, and screwing them into sheet pans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzWYgwVHggEhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4878847 Yeah that'd work too. If you want the Fusion models for the one I linked to let me know and I'll send them to you as I made them. That or let me know the max width that you could print on an angle for your printer and I'll modify them for you. |
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Originally Posted By Deanventure: Collet blocks, hex and square. Go ahead and get the ER32 type. I swear, I kill more threads than the all the moderators combined, over the past twenty years. I wish there was a way to find out how many threads die after my replies. Bump, for more accessory ideas. |
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Originally Posted By Deanventure: Collet blocks, hex and square. Go ahead and get the ER32 type. I went a different direction and use ER-32 for the spindle but got a 5C collet and block set for using on the vise as they go larger than the ER-32 and the material can go fully through the collets. Basically, I’m using ER-32 for tool holding and 5C for material holding. |
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Originally Posted By Deanventure: I swear, I kill more threads than the all the moderators combined, over the past twenty years. I wish there was a way to find out how many threads die after my replies. Bump, for more accessory ideas. Originally Posted By Firestarter123: I went a different direction and use ER-32 for the spindle but got a 5C collet and block set for using on the vise as they go larger than the ER-32 and the material can go fully through the collets. Basically, I'm using ER-32 for tool holding and 5C for material holding. So far, what I have and what I am looking at are all R8. I really need to finish making space so I can unpack all the stuff that came with my lathe - I have at least one holder (square or hex, not sure) but need to identify the type. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Yeah that'd work too. If you want the Fusion models for the one I linked to let me know and I'll send them to you as I made them. That or let me know the max width that you could print on an angle for your printer and I'll modify them for you. Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Originally Posted By rktman26: Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Originally Posted By rktman26: This is an old school tag. I just yesterday received a PM-833TV and started working on building a stand for it today(slowly). I've already got a lathe (PM-1228), so some of the tools are universal. Congrats!!! I’ve been happy with these after printing them. I’d probably go with PETG if printing them again. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6890586 Sweet! I'll have to play with that one. The only 3d printer I have is a Prusa Mini and the bed is to small for that one. I like Clough42's idea of printing keys to index on the table slots, and screwing them into sheet pans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzWYgwVHggEhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4878847 Yeah that'd work too. If you want the Fusion models for the one I linked to let me know and I'll send them to you as I made them. That or let me know the max width that you could print on an angle for your printer and I'll modify them for you. Thank you, I'm gonna try the Clough42 version for simplicity. I haven't even taken the plastic off the mill yet as I don't have a stand to put it on. I got the base welded up today, hope to get the top welded up tomorrow. I'm a LONG way till I need covers for the table - hell, I don't even have power to the wall where the mill will be located yet. But it's on the list of things to do. |
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Originally Posted By Deanventure: I swear, I kill more threads than the all the moderators combined, over the past twenty years. I wish there was a way to find out how many threads die after my replies. Bump, for more accessory ideas. Originally Posted By Deanventure: Originally Posted By Deanventure: Collet blocks, hex and square. Go ahead and get the ER32 type. I swear, I kill more threads than the all the moderators combined, over the past twenty years. I wish there was a way to find out how many threads die after my replies. Bump, for more accessory ideas. I've killed my share of threads as well. I haven't used them yet, but I got square and hex ER40 collet blocks because I have ER40 collets for the lathe. |
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There's a local auction happening soon. Any thoughts on these items for a someone looking at a mill between a G0704 and PM-30? (trimmed list back a little) R8 collects - misc (more than one lot, the mills I'm looking at take them) Jacobs chucks on Morse tapers (unknown Morse size, several lots of 5-ish)) Morse taper adapter sleeves Morse Taper drills (a good number of lots) 6" tilting vise (Maybe too big for the mills I'm looking at?) Milwaukee 6236 small bandsaw (also have a 7" cutoff saw - better or worse?) 6" Kurt vise (D688 AngLock, several available - too big?) A bunch of 8" vises Heinrich 6SV 6" Machine Vise (several available) assorted reamers Shell Mills (on a small mill, would these serve as fly cutters?) various sizes of granite surface plates (damn, but these are heavy!!) 6x6 sine plate (I think they have a few of these) |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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Those shell mills will be too big for either of the mills you’re looking at I believe. If you’re getting a PM-30 a 6” vise will work, however, it’ll be way too big for the G0704. I have a Kurt DX4 (4”) vise on my PM-833TV and I don’t think I’d want a bigger vise. I’d rather just have another DX4 instead. Here’s the size difference on a PM-833TV between (L to R): Kurt DX4 Tegara 440V Tegara 550V Kurt DX6 Kurt D688 (not pictured but it’s bigger than a DX6) |
| I have a 4" Kurt knock-off on my mini-mill but I bought the Monster Jaws oversized 2x5" jaws. I really like that combination on the mini-mill |
A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again. IG @jimstagramguns
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Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Those shell mills will be too big for either of the mills you're looking at I believe. If you're getting a PM-30 a 6" vise will work, however, it'll be way too big for the G0704. I have a Kurt DX4 (4") vise on my PM-833TV and I don't think I'd want a bigger vise. I'd rather just have another DX4 instead. Here's the size difference on a PM-833TV between (L to R): Kurt DX4 Tegara 440V Tegara 550V Kurt DX6 Kurt D688 (not pictured but it's bigger than a DX6) https://nextcloud.fstech.ltd/s/EyW3yWEb4AZAwH8/preview I''ll be un-favoriting a lot on that auction later. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: Dang... I didn't realize something labelled "6 inch" would be so big on the bed. (I know there's a joke in there somewhere, but I just cant work it in at 2am) I''ll be un-favoriting a lot on that auction later. Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Those shell mills will be too big for either of the mills you're looking at I believe. If you're getting a PM-30 a 6" vise will work, however, it'll be way too big for the G0704. I have a Kurt DX4 (4") vise on my PM-833TV and I don't think I'd want a bigger vise. I'd rather just have another DX4 instead. Here's the size difference on a PM-833TV between (L to R): Kurt DX4 Tegara 440V Tegara 550V Kurt DX6 Kurt D688 (not pictured but it's bigger than a DX6) https://nextcloud.fstech.ltd/s/EyW3yWEb4AZAwH8/preview I''ll be un-favoriting a lot on that auction later. Yeah that’s why I decided to make that image for mine after mocking up the bed in Fusion. I went and found the models from the vise manufacturers and imported them so I could compare them and was also shocked at the size difference. The 6” vises are also 60lb+ so they’re much more awkward to move around by hand. I got an 8” rotary table and almost wish I’d have gotten a 6” as with a chuck on it the damn thing weighs 90lbs. |
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Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Yeah that's why I decided to make that image for mine after mocking up the bed in Fusion. I went and found the models from the vise manufacturers and imported them so I could compare them and was also shocked at the size difference. The 6" vises are also 60lb+ so they're much more awkward to move around by hand. I got an 8" rotary table and almost wish I'd have gotten a 6" as with a chuck on it the damn thing weighs 90lbs. edit - there are some Heinrich 4" vises listed - I'll focus on those. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
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Originally Posted By rktman26: Thank you, I'm gonna try the Clough42 version for simplicity. I haven't even taken the plastic off the mill yet as I don't have a stand to put it on. I got the base welded up today, hope to get the top welded up tomorrow. I'm a LONG way till I need covers for the table - hell, I don't even have power to the wall where the mill will be located yet. But it's on the list of things to do. Originally Posted By rktman26: Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Originally Posted By rktman26: Originally Posted By Firestarter123: Originally Posted By rktman26: This is an old school tag. I just yesterday received a PM-833TV and started working on building a stand for it today(slowly). I've already got a lathe (PM-1228), so some of the tools are universal. Congrats!!! I’ve been happy with these after printing them. I’d probably go with PETG if printing them again. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6890586 Sweet! I'll have to play with that one. The only 3d printer I have is a Prusa Mini and the bed is to small for that one. I like Clough42's idea of printing keys to index on the table slots, and screwing them into sheet pans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzWYgwVHggEhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4878847 Yeah that'd work too. If you want the Fusion models for the one I linked to let me know and I'll send them to you as I made them. That or let me know the max width that you could print on an angle for your printer and I'll modify them for you. Thank you, I'm gonna try the Clough42 version for simplicity. I haven't even taken the plastic off the mill yet as I don't have a stand to put it on. I got the base welded up today, hope to get the top welded up tomorrow. I'm a LONG way till I need covers for the table - hell, I don't even have power to the wall where the mill will be located yet. But it's on the list of things to do. The Cleats that Clough42 posted didn't work for me, I've got a Prusa Mini with a much smaller build volume. So I followed along the video he posted and made a remix of them that work on my mill. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7032957 |
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: 8 size HSS 4 flute end mill 3/8" 3F Long Reach End Mill 1/4" 2 Flute Ball Endmill I've stripped this list down to what I know I don't have - nicely staged in my cart. An "audible" center finder was recommended in one of these conversations, and a .200 tip suggested to make +/- .100 center point math easy. I'm good with that, but I have a shank question on the centerfinders. I'm seeing .200 tip centerfinders with various size shanks - 3/8, 1/2, etc. Outside of a personal preference for the collet size used, is there any practical difference? |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
|
I have 3/8 and 1/2" edge finders. I use almost exclusively the 3/8" as I typically use smaller end mills with 3/8" shanks. Not having to change the collet with every tool change is convenient. I even have 3/8" spotting drills. Even though hobby work isn't rushed, it gets annoying the more changes you have to make. You'll get lazy and use the wrong tool for the job because changing it is too clumsy, or repetitive. A power draw-bar changes that significantly though. 
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A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again. IG @jimstagramguns
| Good point. I'll go back and see how much overlap I can get in shank size. |
Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
|
Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: Good point. I'll go back and see how much overlap I can get in shank size. The majority of end mills that I have (far more hss than carbide) are 7/16 down to 1/16 with 3/8 shanks. There are no standard center drills with a 3/8" shank. But 95% of the time, a spotting drill is better anyway. I have 1/4" spotting drills for the same time/frustrations saving when working with 1/4 shank end mills. A #2 center drill will save you swapping collets when working with 3/16 shanks. |
A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again. IG @jimstagramguns
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Just to mention, I wound up with a PM-25, not the 30. It was one of those deals I just could not refuse. Is it worth getting a a prefab dual indicator tram tool like one of these, or just drill some parallel holes in a bit of scrap AL bar and drive in a chunk of friction fit drill rod? If nothing else, it sounds like a good learning project that will not suffer from an out-of-tram mill, as long as I drill all the holes in one setup.  
... or use some like this with a dial indicator and spin it around a bit? 
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Disclaimer - OP is bad at knowing things, and might catch on fire.
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
Vet - Op MMAMA
Every other species kills off their stupid......we cater to them. -- spin-drift
Nobody ever called 911&said I just did something smart. -- TheFlynDutchman
|
I use one like this for tramming the vise and table. |
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