Posted: 2/17/2026 6:47:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blob][Edited]
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0$ tax stamps are in full effect! You probably want to print a suppressor or a gun but you have questions. Lucky for you I'm here to answer your questions! I've put together some of the most frequently asked questions on the forum and answered them to the best of my knowledge. Hopefully this covers what you need to know but if I missed anything just ask below and we'll get it answered for you. There will be a second post at the end to answer common questions about PA6-CF. In accordance with the forum rules, this thread is not for discussing how to build a suppressor or other NFA item. Go to the NFA forum for those topics. Question: Which material to use to print a firearm receiver or frame? The two most commonly used and recommended materials to print a receiver or frame are PLA+ and carbon fiber reinforced nylon (PA6-CF). These two filaments are what nearly all 3D2A projects are designed around. They also pretty much at the polar opposite ends of the 3D printer filament spectrum in terms of cost, printability, and durability so I will list the pros and cons of each. PLA+ (some manufacturers call it PLA Pro) is one of, if not the, easiest and cheapest materials to print in a standard printer. It also happens to have some highly desirable characteristics for 3D2A: excellent impact resistance, great layer adhesion, and good rigidity. What it lacks (and lacks severely) is heat resistance. PLA+ will warp fairly quickly after a few mag dumps or if you leave it in your car or even in direct sunlight for too long. If it wasn't for the poor heat resistance it would otherwise be close to the perfect material for firearms. This is the filament you should use when you first start your 3D2A journey until you get comfortable using your printer and slicer. Carbon Fiber Nylon (PA6-CF) is currently one of the best choices for 3D2A. It has high heat and impact resistance and good layer adhesion if printed correctly. It's also one of the more expensive materials at around $80/kg and requires a somewhat specialized setup to print. I have glock frames printed from this material that I've shot a couple hundred rounds through in quick succession without any warpage at all. Done correctly, this material should give you a gun or suppressor that can easily last thousands of rounds. Printing this material is somewhat challenging to do right and is not recommended for your first venture into 3D2A. ABS should be good to go but fosscad stopped using it along time ago for whatever reason, likely due to open printers being most common in the past and the difficulty of printing ABS associated with those types of machines. If you have a heated chamber and can print it without warping, ABS offers good heat and impact resistance. There are other filaments like PPA, PAHT, PPS, and PA12 that can work but you should do your own research into them before printing. For this guide I am going to recommend sticking with PLA+ and PA6-CF. What not to use: RESIN PRINTERS OF ANY TYPE. DO NOT DO IT. PLA-CF. Layer adhesion is worse and the addition of CF does not add any properties that are useful in this application. Regular PLA or any of the other variants like matte, silk, or metallic. PETG or variants. PETG will shatter and explode under high impact loads. Do not use it under any circumstances. PET-CF. This one isn't as cut and dried as PETG. It does have significantly higher heat resistance than PLA and is easy to print. It has better impact resistance than PETG but still not great. I wouldn't recommend this material for a firearm unless it's in a zero or low impact application (a Leber trigger housing is a good example of where it works. It's a bad choice in a glock frame). Use at your own risk. Or just don't use it. Pretty much anything else. Stick with PLA+ until you learn enough to print PA6-CF properly. Question: Which material to use for printing suppressors? Answer: PA6-CF ideally. While you can print a functional suppressor from PLA+, suppressors by nature get very hot very quickly and a PLA will simply not last as long. If you're going through all the trouble to fill out a Form 1 to legally print a suppressor then you want it to be as durable as possible. I might make an exception for a rimfire can that is only ever going to be mounted to a bolt action rifle where temperatures don't get as high. ABS could be useable here as well, but nearly all the recent suppressors are designed for and intended to be made from PA6-CF. Do your own research if you want to use ABS. Question: What settings do I use to print a receiver/frame/suppressor? Nearly all designs come with a readme. READ IT and do what it says. Generally speaking all receivers and suppressors are going to be printed with a high number of walls (6-12) and 100% infill with layer heights of .15-.2mm. I do not suggest deviating from what the readmes say since those are the settings used when the designs are tested and proven. Question: Which material should I use for firearm accessories? This category is not as restrictive as printing a gun since there really aren't any safety concerns here. Regular PLA is fine if you want but it's going to suck out in the sun and heat. Don't use it for VFGs or any type of mount that is close to the heat of the barrel. ABS or ASA are much more heat resistant and would be a much better choice, with the nod toward ASA for its better UV resistance. PETG can work well but its glossy surface finish stands out too much for my taste and I don't use it. PET-CF is one of my favorite filaments for things like VFGs and buttstocks since it looks great, has good layer adhesion and heat resistance, and is pretty easy to print. This material is an excellent choice for magazines due to its insensitivity to moisture absorbtion. PA6-CF is not a great choice for magazines due it's tendency to soften after moisture absorption and creep when kept under constant pressure (i.e. mag lips will spread apart). Question: I printed a suppressor and it's worn out. Can I print a new one? The ATF considers all suppressor parts to be suppressors themselves and so you cannot legally manufacture new baffles or a replace a worn out suppressor and slap the same serial number on it. You must have an approved Form 1 for each suppressor! Do not print new baffles without a new approved Form 1! |
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PA6-CF Crash Course PA6-CF is currently one of the best and most recommended materials for 3D printed guns and suppressors. It offers excellent heat resistance, good impact resistance, and good layer adhesion. It's not too difficult to print with the right setup but you do need some non-standard equipment and procedures. Here's what you need: 1. Hardened nozzle. I use and recommend Diamondback and ObXidian nozzles but you can use whatever you're comfortable with as long as it's not brass. CF is abrasive and your brass nozzle will erode completely after just a few hours of printing. I recommend using a 0.6mm diameter standard flow nozzle. A 0.4mm will have a higher chance of clogging which has happened to me before. Many people do print carbon fiber materials successfully with a 0.4mm nozzle and I do occasionally too, but I try to limit the print size in case a clog happens so I don't lose a bunch of time and money in materials. A larger nozzle size will in theory also give better layer adhesion which should give you stronger parts. A smaller nozzle size will give finer detail and will be able to fill smaller gaps inside corners. The choice is yours - just ask yourself if you're comfortable tossing a clogged $100 diamondback in the trash. 2. Hardened extruder gears. Check your printer specs to see if it comes with hardened gears and upgrade if necessary. 3. Hi-temp hotend. This is an easier box to check with many modern printers, but you want to be able to hit 300C or higher. High temps = better layer adhesion = stonger and longer lasting prints. 4. Heated chamber. Nylon likes to warp. The addition of carbon fiber helps prevent it but it's not always enough by itself. Fiberon's PA6-CF is advertised as able to print in a cool environment but I've had inconsistent results without chamber heat. If you can get up to 50C or so your parts will warp less and your layer adhesion will improve. 4. High temp filament dryer. This is the most important piece of the equation for successful nylon printing. Do not skimp here! You want a dryer that can hit at least 100C to fully dry and anneal nylon. Your average filament dryer is only going to hit 70C with its anemic PTC heater - if you're lucky. You can try drying at lower temps for longer time but you will very likely still have bad stringing and oozing and ruined prints. I've only had luck drying at 100C and don't waste my time with anything lower. The process: Before you begin you should correctly calibrate your printer for this filament. YOU ARE PRINTING THINGS THAT CONTAIN EXPLOSIONS - DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. This is not a printer tuning guide so I won't go into the weeds here, but at the very least you must correctly adjust your flow ratio so you don't underextrude your prints which will cause early failure. For PA6-CF and other carbon fiber filaments I recommend using the visual flow calibrations in orca slicer instead of the standard single wall vase mode cube method. I have experienced flow ratio errors of up to 0.1 using the single wall method so I started doing the YOLO tests and have much better results. Before you run your calibrations you are going to need to dry your material. After you dry your material you're going to want to dry it some more. Keep drying it. It's not dry enough yet, dry it some more. Seriously, nylon is comically hygroscopic and notoriously difficult to dry. I don't care if you just opened a brand new factory package or took it out of your hermetically sealed drybox - it's still wet. DRY IT. I dry my nylon at 100-105C for a minimum of 24 hours and it works well for me. How do you know if it's dry enough? When you load the filament and do the initial nozzle purge you will be able to tell right away. If it purges out of the nozzle faster than the extruder is pushing it through then your filament is WAY too wet. Start over. If it looks foamy or you can hear popping then you didn't dry it all. If it oozes at all after the extruder stops purging, it is still wet. Dry it more. Fully dried PA6-CF should not ooze even the slightest amount after the initial purge. What I like to do is watch it purge and then as soon as the extruder stops pushing material through I will "snip" the purged material flush from the end of the nozzle with needle nose pliers and watch it closely to see if any oozes out. You can run a quick retraction tower test and if you see any blobs building up then it's still wet. Go dry it more. You will want to actively dry it during printing as well because this stuff will soak up water and become unprintable after just a couple hours of exposure to open air. 70C here should be fine for maintaining the moisture level during printing. I don't worry about having a perfectly airtight network of PTFE tubing from the dryer to the extruder. Just make sure the spool is being dried during the print and you'll be fine. Get your chamber up to 50C. Crank the nozzle up to 300C or higher if you can and turn off the part cooling fan. PRINT SLOW, like 30mm/s or even less for all line types. Layer adhesion is the name of the game here and you want all the help you can get by ensuring the material becomes thoroughly heated in the nozzle. Since the print print fan is off you'll need to watch your minimum layer times and might have to build a sacrificial tower off to the side to give your part enough time to cool. You'll know what I'm talking about if you've ever tried to print a benchy and melted the smokestack. After printing you should anneal your parts. A lot of people skip this step but I feel that it's important not to. If you look at the TDS provided by the manufacturer they'll list specs like heat deflection and glass transition temps, but what they don't tell you is that these numbers only apply to the filament when it's in the annealed state. Simply put: If you don't anneal your prints you are leaving performance on the table. You've chosen to print in PA6 because of its exceptional properties so why limit those properties by skipping the easiest step in the process? ETA: The reason people choose to skip this is because annealing does cause some small amount of shrinkage and potentially some warpage. If done correctly the shrinkage is minimized but still present, so it is advisable to print and anneal some sample pieces and measure them to figure out the appropriate scaling factors for the best results. At the end of the day it's up to you whether to anneal or not, but I still recommend doing it. To anneal PA6-CF, first separate the part and the entire support structure from the build plate carefully. Try to leave everything intact because you're going to put it all in the oven during the annealing process, leaving the part in the same orientation it was printed and with the supports in place to avoid sagging. If your oven is big enough to fit the entire plate with the part on it then just put the whole thing straight in there. Anneal the part according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It's probably going to look something like 100C in the oven for 16 hours. If you can program your oven to ramp the temperature up and down slowly then do that. Some people say to pack the part in sand or salt to help slow the heat transfer which helps reduce warpage. I've never done that but you can try if you want. Whether or not you annealed, avoid the temptation to assemble the parts until after moisture conditioning. If try to shoot your gun immediately after printing or annealing you stand a good chance of cracking something because the base material is still dry and ultra rigid. Dry nylon and wet nylon behave like two completely different filaments and we need to restore the material's toughness by allowing it to reabsorb some of the moisture that we worked so hard to remove before. The easiest way to do this is to drop the part in a tupperware container or big ziploc bag with a wet sponge and let it sit around for a couple weeks. If you live in a very humid environment you should be ok with just letting it sit out in the open. You can try dunking it in a hot water bath but you will have to experiment with time and temperature yourself. I once put a glock frame in a 60C sous vide bath for a little over an hour and the thing swelled up so much I couldn't even get the slide on. I have my doubts about this being an effective method because I feel like the thinner sections of the gun such as the dustcover would completely absorb water before enough time had passed for the thicker areas to reach equilibrium. It might work better on something like a rimfire can where the cross sectional thicknesses are more even. IDK. You do what you feel is right , but either way don't forget this step. Yeah it sucks waiting another week or two to shoot your brand new can, but you already waited for the Form 1 to clear so just hold out a little longer. You'll be glad you did. |
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Where can I download 3D2A files? The forum rules prohibit me from posting direct links, but just about everything is hosted on a website called odysee. You'll see coded references to odysee like "the odd sea" or "the strange ocean" to skirt around the rules that some of the other forums have (like reddit). Someone might say a file is "sailing" or "sailing the ocean" which means it has been uploaded to odysee and "the captain" is the author or uploader of the file. Unfortunately the search feature on odysee is less than worthless so to find what you're looking for you want to use a site called "GunCAD Index." This site doesn't host any files directly but serves as an index page with good browse functionality. It's also where the fosscad forum moved to after reddit nuked the fosscad sub. CTRL+Pew and The Gatalog are other index pages that are good to go. PY2A hosts their stuff on github, also good to go. Should I pay for 3D2A files? No! The fosscad movement is dedicated to developing and releasing files for free. Sites like DEFCAD (which is likely a .gov honeypot operation) steal the free files from fosscad and host them on their own site and charge you money. If you see something you want that is for sale, go check the index and you'll likely find the original available for free. In short, you should not ever need to pay for a 3D2A file. Use one of the other indexes. Tell me more about printing a Glock clone Glock clones are the lowest barrier to entry into the 3D2A world. They are fast and easy to print and only require a couple minutes of assembly. Almost all of them are based around the Gen 3 Glock, so in addition to the stl file for the frame you will need a complete Gen 3 slide (or compatible clone), lower parts kit, locking block, and a rail kit that is specific to the frame type that you download. The three most common frame types are FMDA, PY2A, and P80. FMDA builds use a solid machined front rail and a bent sheet metal back rail. The rail kits are named "DDxx.2" where the "xx" is the model number of the Glock that you want to build, so for example if you are putting together a Glock 19 build you will need a DD19.2 rail kit. A Glock 17 build will require a DD17.2 kit. There is a previous generation of DD rails (DDxx.1) which uses two piece back rails which is now obsolete. Stick with the DDxx.2 kits. PY2A builds use a bent sheet metal front and back rail. This is a great option if you want to DIY the rails. You can order the blanks from an online laser cutting services or dremel them out yourself and bend them with 3D printable bending jigs. You an also buy completed rail kits directly from PY2A or other vendors if you don't want to bend them yourself. P80 builds use a single piece combination front rail and locking block along with a bent sheet metal back rail. These frames aren't nearly as common as the other two. |
For anybody interested in the science behind annealing and moisture conditioning of PA6-CF. Everyone gets this Wrong when 3D Printing Carbon Fiber Nylon |
Y'all can go to hell, I'll go to Idaho.
| You say do not assemble prior to moisture conditioning. What about in the case of a suppressor where a steel adapter is threaded in to the print. With all the talk about dimensional changes could it change the threads enough not to work properly? |
Y'all can go to hell, I'll go to Idaho.
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Originally Posted By DrJekell: You say do not assemble prior to moisture conditioning. What about in the case of a suppressor where a steel adapter is threaded in to the print. With all the talk about dimensional changes could it change the threads enough not to work properly? I think the biggest concern is trying to drive pins into a receiver with undersized holes and splitting the print apart or otherwise forcing tightly fitting parts together. The shrinkage factor is a small percentage of part size so it's probably not going to be very noticeable on a relatively small 3/4" thread. You'll see a more significant change over a larger part like an AR receiver. I wouldn't worry too much about test fitting the thread adapter, but if you feel resistance then obviously you don't want to force it. Stop and reevaluate. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I think the biggest concern is trying to drive pins into a receiver with undersized holes and splitting the print apart or otherwise forcing tightly fitting parts together. The shrinkage factor is a small percentage of part size so it's probably not going to be very noticeable on a relatively small 3/4" thread. You'll see a more significant change over a larger part like an AR receiver. I wouldn't worry too much about test fitting the thread adapter, but if you feel resistance then obviously you don't want to force it. Stop and reevaluate. Thanks |
Y'all can go to hell, I'll go to Idaho.
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Originally Posted By Blob: Question: Which material to use for printing suppressors? Answer: PA6-CF ideally. While you can print a functional suppressor from PLA+, suppressors by nature get very hot very quickly and a PLA will simply not last as long. If you're going through all the trouble to fill out a Form 1 to legally print a suppressor then you want it to be as durable as possible. I might make an exception for a rimfire can that is only ever going to be mounted to a bolt action rifle where temperatures don't get as high. ABS could be useable here as well, but nearly all the recent suppressors are designed for and intended to be made from PA6-CF. Do your own research if you want to use ABS. The creator of the FTN, working with many testers, said that PLA is fine for rimfire if you aren't doing mag dumps. Keep the ROF reasonable, and they can last a couple thousand rounds before the baffles are so eroded that it no longer works well. Also, filling out a form 1 isn't very hard and doesn't take that long, you may as well fill out ten or twenty and print those up front for if/when you wear one out. Between the extra cost and hardware needed to print out of nylon/ABS, I think it's also just as valid to file more forms, print a bunch of $2.50-$3.25 cans from PLA pro, and call it a day - especially if you have a more basic printer. Shoot, throw ten of them on a build plate and have ten cans the next day. Also, K-baffles are a lot more durable than "just cones" if you're doing PLA, keeping the tip of the cone from sagging into the bullet path if you do get things nice and warm. |
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Originally Posted By GlutealCleft: The creator of the FTN, working with many testers, said that PLA is fine for rimfire if you aren't doing mag dumps. Keep the ROF reasonable, and they can last thousands of rounds before the baffles are so eroded that it no longer works well. Also, filling out a form 1 isn't very hard and doesn't take that long, you may as well fill out ten or twenty and print those up front for if/when you wear one out. Between the extra cost and hardware needed to print out of nylon/ABS, I think it's also just as valid to file more forms, print a bunch of $2.50-$3.25 cans from PLA pro, and call it a day - especially if you have a more basic printer. Shoot, throw ten of them on a build plate and have ten cans the next day. Also, K-baffles are a lot more durable than "just cones" if you're doing PLA, keeping the tip of the cone from sagging into the bullet path if you do get things nice and warm. My factory 22 cans on a pistol get pretty toasty after just one or two mags which is why I say that. I know I've seen them demo a PLA can on 556 ARs and 9mm PCCs, but the fact is PLA just really sucks in the heat. No getting around that. At the end of the day, the choice is yours. Print one or two significantly more durable cans or file several forms and print a bunch of throwaways. There's no wrong way to eat a Reese's. 
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Originally Posted By Blob: My factory 22 cans on a pistol get pretty toasty after just one or two mags which is why I say that. I know I've seen them demo a PLA can on 556 ARs and 9mm PCCs, but the fact is PLA just really sucks in the heat. No getting around that. At the end of the day, the choice is yours. Print one or two significantly more durable cans or file several forms and print a bunch of throwaways. There's no wrong way to eat a Reese's. One 20rd. mag dump on an FRT'd TX22 and that first baffle pinched shut like a sphincter.  |
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Great thread, Blob. I appreciate the time you put into it. I'm looking at picking up a Bambu P2S as my first printer. It says that it comes with a 300c nozzle. Are there any concerns upgrading it to a 350c nozzle? Or, is it best to start with a printer that is designed and configured with a 350c nozzle from the beginning? Besides the nozzle and adding a way to keep the chamber warm, are there any other features I should look for in a printer if I'm planning to eventually use PA6-CF or other filaments that benefit from higher heat? Or, features that will future-proof my printer to some degree? |
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Originally Posted By mitsuman47: Great thread, Blob . I appreciate the time you put into it. I'm looking at picking up a Bambu P2S as my first printer. It says that it comes with a 300c nozzle. Are there any concerns upgrading it to a 350c nozzle? Or, is it best to start with a printer that is designed and configured with a 350c nozzle from the beginning? Besides the nozzle and adding a way to keep the chamber warm, are there any other features I should look for in a printer if I'm planning to eventually use PA6-CF or other filaments that benefit from higher heat? Or, features that will future-proof my printer to some degree? I am not super familiar with bambu machines so I can't say for sure what hardware they use, but the typical consumer 3D printer is limited to around 300C because of the type of thermistor used to sense the nozzle temperature. These become unreliable above 300, so reaching higher temps requires a different thermistor and a firmware change with new resistance values to read correctly. I do not believe the P2S can be upgraded to hit 350 on the nozzle - but I could be wrong and would love to know if I am. There is a way to "lie" to the machine by modding it with a resistor to make it reach higher temps but that's something you should only do if you are comfortable taking that risk. In addition to the thermistor you have to make sure the nozzle itself is rated for high temp. Most nozzles also max out at 300C. If the printer does not have an actively heated chamber then the only way to get it warm is to run high bed temps and wrap with insulation or a blanket if needed, or run an aftermarket chamber heater. A nice quality of life feature for printing PA6-CF would be a dual nozzle setup for printing support material. The H2D checks all of these boxes right from the factory. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I am not super familiar with bambu machines so I can't say for sure what hardware they use, but the typical consumer 3D printer is limited to around 300C because of the type of thermistor used to sense the nozzle temperature. These become unreliable above 300, so reaching higher temps requires a different thermistor and a firmware change with new resistance values to read correctly. I do not believe the P2S can be upgraded to hit 350 on the nozzle - but I could be wrong and would love to know if I am. There is a way to "lie" to the machine by modding it with a resistor to make it reach higher temps but that's something you should only do if you are comfortable taking that risk. In addition to the thermistor you have to make sure the nozzle itself is rated for high temp. Most nozzles also max out at 300C. If the printer does not have an actively heated chamber then the only way to get it warm is to run high bed temps and wrap with insulation or a blanket if needed, or run an aftermarket chamber heater. A nice quality of life feature for printing PA6-CF would be a dual nozzle setup for printing support material. The H2D checks all of these boxes right from the factory. What would be a good support material to use? |
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Quick grok query says H2D can also do engraving by changing out a tool head (?) So I could print and engrave suppressors with the H2D, or maybe the cost of the tool head is cost prohibitive and best to send out for engraving? ETA I also asked grok for alternatives/competitors to the H2D. Your thoughts on grok thoughts? Why These Three? • Bambu Lab H2D: Your baseline—it’s a top performer for PA6-CF (official support, heated AMS options help drying indirectly). Capability is elite, reliability is strong post-launch fixes, and Bambu’s ecosystem is unmatched for quick help/parts. • Bambu Lab X1-Carbon: Often edges out even the H2D in pure reliability discussions (e.g., Wirecutter calls it consistently excellent over long testing; many users prefer it for “worry-free” CF/nylon). Same hardened setup and profiles as H2D, but more mature/adopted. If you want Bambu ease without the H2D’s premium price/extras, this is the go-to. • QIDI Tech X-Max 3 / Plus4: Frequently wins head-to-heads for nylon/CF capability (superior active chamber heat retention, higher max temps in some variants). Users report excellent layer adhesion/low warp on PA6-CF. Parts are readily available, and adoption is solid in engineering circles—great if you prioritize raw performance over Bambu’s polished UI. |
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Originally Posted By tangbang: Quick grok query says H2D can also do engraving by changing out a tool head (?) So I could print and engrave suppressors with the H2D, or maybe the cost of the tool head is cost prohibitive and best to send out for engraving? ETA I also asked grok for alternatives/competitors to the H2D. Your thoughts on grok thoughts? It's a low power diode laser so at best you'll be able to mark anodized parts by removing the anodizing layer. This will not even come close to meeting the required engraving depth of 0.003" in metal. People are getting F1s approved by printing the text directly into the suppressor, but I personally would avoid doing that since the ATF states the serial number should "not susceptible of being readily obliterated, altered, or removed." |
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Originally Posted By Blob: It's a low power diode laser so at best you'll be able to mark anodized parts by removing the anodizing layer. This will not even come close to meeting the required engraving depth of 0.003" in metal. People are getting F1s approved by printing the text directly into the suppressor, but I personally would avoid doing that since the ATF states the serial number should "not susceptible of being readily obliterated, altered, or removed." Then what is the "approved" method of imprinting the serial number on a CF can? |
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Then what is the "approved" method of imprinting the serial number on a CF can? Another one is use a design that incorporates a printed core + outer metal sleeve. Engrave on the sleeve and the epoxy the printed insert inside it. |
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Those are good options. The FTN.5, being a primarily printed design, incorporates a small length of tube to be engraved and epoxied. Attached File The FTN.3 uses a metal washer epoxied in the muzzle end of the can: Attached File |
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Help me out here. These are the five FTN rimfire files. From left to right; Rimfire + venturi shroud RImfire flow assembly Telsa coil 22 assembly Venturi shroud for FTN 5 Rimfire FTN rimfire slim for 30mm None of the first four have a reduced area for a metal sleeve. Do I have to create that? 
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Originally Posted By mvintx: Help me out here. These are the five FTN rimfire files. From left to right; Rimfire + venturi shroud RImfire flow assembly Telsa coil 22 assembly Venturi shroud for FTN 5 Rimfire FTN rimfire slim for 30mm None of the first four have a reduced area for a metal sleeve. Do I have to create that? https://i.imgur.com/bBaa6Xn.png They are in there. The file names will end in "Form 1.stl" |
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Originally Posted By Lowend15: Thank you very much for this. You dropped this 👑, king! You mention PA6CF- is PA6-12CF an even better option? From Polymaker it is also cheaper, just wondering if there is a downside that isn’t readily apparent. PA12 is less susceptible to moisture absorption than PA6. PA6 has better heat and impact resistance. PA612 is a blend of the two to sort of bridge the gap. It doesn't have outstanding performance in any one category. Comparing the TDS for each shows PA6-CF has significantly higher heat resistance that 612: Attached File Depending on what you're doing, either one can work well. |