2024 Subaru WRX (Page 6 of 22)
| I ended up ordering some more parts for the Rex. I ordered a Group N transmission mount and the Whiteline positive shift kit. Those are supposed to work with the pitch stop to really clean up the shifting. I already have the shift stop and the brass shifter bushing installed. Curiosity got the better of me. I'm in stop and go traffic almost the entire route on my daily commute so I'm always game for anything that will make shifting feel smoother and easier. The install, from what I've seen, looks straightforward as long as you can get under the car. So I'm going to give it a whirl. I'm taking a road trip in early May so I've begun prepping the car for it. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I have a Kimber lock box that's pretty small and looks like it'd fit under the seats without issue. I found a link to a pic of it. I keep it by my bedside but it looks like it would work for what you need it to do. Link I've got one of those; they're not even big enough for a G19 with an optic, let alone an optic and a light...they're barely big enough for a standard G19 I think. That's why I'm looking for something larger; at least a 1911, preferably able to house one with an optic and a light on it, along with a couple spare mags. I mean yes, it'd fit under the seat without a problem  But it wouldn't be big enough to actually contain anything I'd want to put into it..
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: I've got one of those; they're not even big enough for a G19 with an optic, let alone an optic and a light...they're barely big enough for a standard G19 I think. That's why I'm looking for something larger; at least a 1911, preferably able to house one with an optic and a light on it, along with a couple spare mags. I mean yes, it'd fit under the seat without a problem But it wouldn't be big enough to actually contain anything I'd want to put into it.. |
I'm sure you guys have heard the news on Cobbs new flex fuel kit.  COBB Tuning - Subaru VB WRX COBB Stage 1+ CAN Flex Fuel Install |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
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Originally Posted By TripleC: I'm sure you guys have heard the news on Cobbs new flex fuel kit.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_ywhKZBUnY |
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Originally Posted By TripleC: I'm sure you guys have heard the news on Cobbs new flex fuel kit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_ywhKZBUnYGot any kind of high-level summary so I don't have to sit through 13+ minutes of video? |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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@TheLASwamp I haven't read through the whole thread, so if you've gone over /seen this already, my mistake! The "one and done" solution for the shifter is a Dark Matter X. It isn't the easiest thing to install, but it can be done using ramps or jack stands in a driveway. |
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: @TheLASwamp I haven't read through the whole thread, so if you've gone over /seen this already, my mistake! The "one and done" solution for the shifter is a Dark Matter X. It isn't the easiest thing to install, but it can be done using ramps or jack stands in a driveway. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: It's the install procedure. It'll give you anxiety watching it. I need a Xanax now. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Originally Posted By Emoto: Got any kind of high-level summary so I don't have to sit through 13+ minutes of video? I thought I was informative and relaxing but Im a gear head.
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when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
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Originally Posted By TripleC: I thought I was informative and relaxing but Im a gear head. |
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I found a vendor that was selling the JDM STI pitch stop for $50. I decided to order one to see if I can reduce more of the noise from the metal pitch stop I have now. I've not heard many good things about JDMuscle but I decided I'd give them a chance. Plus, that price is nice. I got an email from them today letting me know the part is on backorder. There is no known ship date. Sigh. I can see why they don't have a very good rep. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I've seen that part on Subimods. What does the part do? The part I saw looks like a misshaped hard drive. It's an entire shifter assembly that isn't plastic. The shift cable is replaced with a rod and two heim joints. Adjustments are built in. The hard drive looking thing is an add on that protects the shift from the elements. Click me |
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: It's an entire shifter assembly that isn't plastic. The shift cable is replaced with a rod and two heim joints. Adjustments are built in. The hard drive looking thing is an add on that protects the shift from the elements. Click me |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: That looks really nice. I'm not sure I'd be up for tackling that kind of project, though. I'm hitting the low hanging fruit but I will probably not stray from that at least while I'm still in the warranty period. Do you have it installed? I helped install one on a car. That's what piqued my interest/investigation. My car has all the add-ons you've mentioned, plus some additional body stiffening bits. I truly believe it's worth the price tag. P.s. I am not associated with that company or anyone in it. I just happen to work across the street from a shop that it's bread and butter is modifying subarus, lancers, and numerous RWD cars for track use and drifting! |
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: I helped install one on a car. That's what piqued my interest/investigation. My car has all the add-ons you've mentioned, plus some additional body stiffening bits. I truly believe it's worth the price tag. P.s. I am not associated with that company or anyone in it. I just happen to work across the street from a shop that it's bread and butter is modifying subarus, lancers, and numerous RWD cars for track use and drifting! Did you happen to drive it after that was installed? Am curious about how it felt. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Did you happen to drive it after that was installed? Am curious about how it felt. I didn't drive it, but I did row through the gears and compared it to mine. It won't make it feel like a gated shifter, but there's a definite improvement in feel over the stock shifter, especially with the elimination of the shift cable. |
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Originally Posted By Moto-M187: I didn't drive it, but I did row through the gears and compared it to mine. It won't make it feel like a gated shifter, but there's a definite improvement in feel over the stock shifter, especially with the elimination of the shift cable. The shifter on the WRX is much nicer than the shifter on my 2003 Mazda 6s. I'm pretty sure it was a Ford transmission, as was much of the car despite being a Mazda. Even with Royal Purple gear oil, the transmission was a bit clunky. Growing up, I drove a Dodge truck and a 1975 Volvo both with 4-speed manuals. They were as smooth as a corn cob, lol. |
| My Base model came with the non-HK system. In my opinion, it sounds decent as it is. It's won't win any competitions, but it's not terrible for a basic factory stereo. That being said, I think I mentioned I've done some mods to try to catch up with you HK guys. I added some 6x9 speakers in boxes that I have in the passenger footwells connected to a Sony 4 channel amp. I replaced the dash speakers with Hertz 3.5" full range speakers. I replaced the front door 6x9 speakers with Kicker CS models. The system sounds pretty good now. I still have two channels free on the amp so I'm going to bridge them and add a 10" Kicker sub that I had up in the closet collecting dust. Bridged, the sub should get about 160w. I am swapping out the Kickers in the front doors with Infinity 9633ix models since they are more efficient. I will put the Kickers in boxes and probably use them in the truck. I have another set of Infinity 6x9s in boxes that I will probably move to the WRX so it will pair with the ones in the doors. I'm hoping it comes out well. There's a cut out in the rear deck for a sub in the HK-equipped models but that cut out isn't there if you don't have the upgrade. I would have liked to have been able to use that space. |
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HeavyMetalWRX has a new tuner talk with Graham and he found something interesting in the factory tune that Cobb didn't even know about. 23:23 time  Tuner Talk # 7: VB WRX Flex fuel, Pump upgrades, and 1000 HP engine |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
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Originally Posted By TripleC: HeavyMetalWRX has a new tuner talk with Graham and he found something interesting in the factory tune that Cobb didn't even know about. 23:23 time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLDe5AnR_HgI'm working on other mods now, like the Group N transmission mount, Whiteline cross member bushings, and finishing the stereo system with sound-deadening. I think I found a way to solve the kinking hose for the catch can and I will be trying that out this weekend. The JDM pitch stop is on backorder with no information on when it will ship. I'd like to do some lighting mods but that OEM fog light kit is pretty spendy. I saw a mod last night from Street Inspired where he installed LED off road lights behind the front grille. It looked pretty good and I would guess isn't too expensive. He had some brackets he used for mounting. I may look into doing that if I can source the brackets. |
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Finally spent the time to figure out how to stop the annoying beep that happened whenever I locked or unlocked the car (for trim levels with a fob, no ignition key). I really did not like alerting everyone within 100' that I was doing something with my car. On the Infotainment screen: Settings > Car > Keyless Entry > Audio Alert The trick is that the ignition needs to be in the Run position (the engine does not actually need to be running, but if it is that's fine) in order to access that menu. The Accessory position does not allow access to that menu. You can also turn on or off the 4-way flasher single flash that happens when locking/unlocking in that same menu. If you have a trim level that came with an ignition key, you can disable the beep following these instructions:  Subaru School - How to Stop Key Lock Beep You guys probably already knew all about this.
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Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Finally spent the time to figure out how to stop the annoying beep that happened whenever I locked or unlocked the car (for trim levels with a fob, no ignition key). I really did not like alerting everyone within 100' that I was doing something with my car. On the Infotainment screen: Settings > Car > Keyless Entry > Audio Alert The trick is that the ignition needs to be in the Run position (the engine does not actually need to be running, but if it is that's fine) in order to access that menu. The Accessory position does not allow access to that menu. You can also turn on or off the 4-way flasher single flash that happens when locking/unlocking in that same menu. If you have a trim level that came with an ignition key, you can disable the beep following these instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6TxcbELoWQYou guys probably already knew all about this. I'm one of those who very definitely wants to see the lights flash and hear the beep. I can't tell you how many times I walk away from the car and hit the lock button and it doesn't register; the car doesn't lock. I have to at the very least try again, if not turn around and point it at the car and try again. Hearing the beep when I'm close enough, or seeing the lights blip when I'm too far away to hear the beep/it's too noisy to hear the beep, is way too useful for me. If you want a heart-sinking moment, it's coming back to your car after you hit the lock button to do some shopping, and finding out it's been ransacked - your car didn't actually lock. And you didn't hear or see confirmation of your lock command, so you didn't know you needed to hit the stupid button again. I'm also in the camp of "why wouldn't you want others to know your car is locked when you walk away" - there's zero benefit to parking at a WalMart for example and walking inside and not having your car beep at you when you click the lock button. You're not invisible or incognito; your moderately loud car is very visible and can be heard from easily 100 foot away; you didn't stealth your way into the parking lot. It's not like no one saw or heard you come in. If anything walking away without the car making noise seems, to me, to be an open invitation for anyone looking for an easy target to see if your car is available for a test drive. This calculus might change for you if you don't or can't park your car inside your garage at night, and you need to do things with it outside at odd times of the day/night, so YMMV? I've got a garage, so at-home noise making isn't really an issue for me.. Obviously, everyone's different, and everyone's situation is different 
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
Aaaaand, just finished hard-wiring both front and rear dash cams into the car  It really wasn't too bad - though I haven't driven the car yet to see how badly any excess cable will rattle. The rear had a bunch of cable looped up and shoved into the C-pillar cladding, and the front had a bunch including a controlbox shoved into the fuse panel area, and some more excess cable bundled up kind of between the A-pillar and dash area. I have no idea if it'll rattle when going over the rough farm roads here or not...but, it's on, it works, parking mode works (so it's on all the time but discarding video after like 30 seconds - if something bumps into the car or whatever, it writes the previous 15 or 30 seconds out and powers fully up and starts writing out at normal speed for X time after that).Wiring into the fuse block was no problem - I used 3rd column, 2nd down - 12 volt cigar lighter/plug fuse - for accessory power, and 4th column, 3rd up - rear foglight fuse, which I don't think is used in our version of the car? - that gave me power when the car's off for parking mode. The only thing I really kind of want to clean up is the wires coming out of the headliner into the front dash cam...because the power's on the right side of mine, but the rear cam plugs into the left - they kind of cross, since I ran the rear cable on the right side, but the power had to go to the left side as that's where the fuseblock is...but, that's a future problem and it's not a big deal. The other thing I wish I had done was plug both wires into it before cementing it to the front window - the cable to the rear camera comes out of the top and it's a straight connector, not an L-shaped/low profile one, and has no room; it actually touches the plastic surround of the EyeSight cameras. If it was just 1/4" lower...oh well. I don't feel like prying it off, scraping off the adhesive, putting on another 3M adhesive pad, re-doing the ..blah blah blah, you get the idea. Both cameras are aimed right and have the correct pictures, so I'll let it ride. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: I'm one of those who very definitely wants to see the lights flash and hear the beep. I can't tell you how many times I walk away from the car and hit the lock button and it doesn't register; the car doesn't lock. I have to at the very least try again, if not turn around and point it at the car and try again. Hearing the beep when I'm close enough, or seeing the lights blip when I'm too far away to hear the beep/it's too noisy to hear the beep, is way too useful for me. If you want a heart-sinking moment, it's coming back to your car after you hit the lock button to do some shopping, and finding out it's been ransacked - your car didn't actually lock. And you didn't hear or see confirmation of your lock command, so you didn't know you needed to hit the stupid button again. I'm also in the camp of "why wouldn't you want others to know your car is locked when you walk away" - there's zero benefit to parking at a WalMart for example and walking inside and not having your car beep at you when you click the lock button. You're not invisible or incognito; your moderately loud car is very visible and can be heard from easily 100 foot away; you didn't stealth your way into the parking lot. It's not like no one saw or heard you come in. If anything walking away without the car making noise seems, to me, to be an open invitation for anyone looking for an easy target to see if your car is available for a test drive. This calculus might change for you if you don't or can't park your car inside your garage at night, and you need to do things with it outside at odd times of the day/night, so YMMV? I've got a garage, so at-home noise making isn't really an issue for me.. Obviously, everyone's different, and everyone's situation is different The flash of the signal lights is sufficient for me. I generally lock the car by touching those forward stacked lines on the door handle, and can easily see the lights flash when I do that. If I use the fob to lock (which I almost never do) I will be watching the car as I press the button and again will see the lights flash. The car unlocks when my hand goes into the door handle and I can't imagine anyone needing a beep for that. I live in a quiet semi-rural-suburban area. I can hear cars beep that aren't even in sight. I don't need to send out noise when I lock or unlock the car. My neighbors don't need to hear that. Beyond that, I just naturally prefer stealth. YMMV |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Aaaaand, just finished hard-wiring both front and rear dash cams into the car It really wasn't too bad - though I haven't driven the car yet to see how badly any excess cable will rattle. The rear had a bunch of cable looped up and shoved into the C-pillar cladding, and the front had a bunch including a controlbox shoved into the fuse panel area, and some more excess cable bundled up kind of between the A-pillar and dash area. I have no idea if it'll rattle when going over the rough farm roads here or not...but, it's on, it works, parking mode works (so it's on all the time but discarding video after like 30 seconds - if something bumps into the car or whatever, it writes the previous 15 or 30 seconds out and powers fully up and starts writing out at normal speed for X time after that).Wiring into the fuse block was no problem - I used 3rd column, 2nd down - 12 volt cigar lighter/plug fuse - for accessory power, and 4th column, 3rd up - rear foglight fuse, which I don't think is used in our version of the car? - that gave me power when the car's off for parking mode. The only thing I really kind of want to clean up is the wires coming out of the headliner into the front dash cam...because the power's on the right side of mine, but the rear cam plugs into the left - they kind of cross, since I ran the rear cable on the right side, but the power had to go to the left side as that's where the fuseblock is...but, that's a future problem and it's not a big deal. The other thing I wish I had done was plug both wires into it before cementing it to the front window - the cable to the rear camera comes out of the top and it's a straight connector, not an L-shaped/low profile one, and has no room; it actually touches the plastic surround of the EyeSight cameras. If it was just 1/4" lower...oh well. I don't feel like prying it off, scraping off the adhesive, putting on another 3M adhesive pad, re-doing the ..blah blah blah, you get the idea. Both cameras are aimed right and have the correct pictures, so I'll let it ride. I'm going to take the day tomorrow to install the Group N transmission mount and the Whiteline cross mount bushings. Very interested to see how the mods change the feel of the car. I removed the intercooler so I could install the hose spring braces to remove the kinks in the line. It seems to have worked. The hose now makes the bends and turns without kinking. I also checked the can and took some pics if anyone is interested in seeing it. It's definitely catching oil. Not much, but it's only been about a month. I'll check it again in a couple of months when I change the oil prior to the road trip. For some reason, the intercooler was a bear to get back on. Specifically, the charge pipe would not click in. I was running out of daylight and had to get it finished. I removed the short transition pipe so I could click the connector into place manually and then slide the connector into the pipe. Then I tightened the worm-gear clamps. I wonder if I've been driving around with the charge pipe not clicked all the way in from the last time I removed the intercooler. Probably not, but who knows. No CEL lights or other indicators of a problem but it may have sealed just enough to not leak. It's on there now, though. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: The flash of the signal lights is sufficient for me. I generally lock the car by touching those forward stacked lines on the door handle, and can easily see the lights flash when I do that. If I use the fob to lock (which I almost never do) I will be watching the car as I press the button and again will see the lights flash. The car unlocks when my hand goes into the door handle and I can't imagine anyone needing a beep for that. I live in a quiet semi-rural-suburban area. I can hear cars beep that aren't even in sight. I don't need to send out noise when I lock or unlock the car. My neighbors don't need to hear that. Beyond that, I just naturally prefer stealth. YMMV |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Evil_Ed, congrats on the new WRX! Mine is a '23, also a Limited. I have not made any mechanical mods to mine as of yet and have mixed feelings about mods in general. Am enjoying it stock so far. For the spare, you have options. You can fit a full sized wheel and tire in the well in the trunk but you will have to cut the styrofoam trunk floor to fit over it. Used OEM wheels/tire can be found easily. I picked up a secondhand STi 18" temporary spare and Impreza styrofoam so that I would not have to rely on the fix a flat kit. I made a little web page with all the info here. The biggest concern (to me) is running unequal sized tires if I do need to run the spare, which might overheat or damage the center diff. It isn't exactly the size of the regular wheel so I would want to keep speeds down and basically go directly to a tire shop. Maybe for a long trip, it makes more sense to have a full-sized spare, I dunno. Thanks for this! I added the spare to mine this weekend. |
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Originally Posted By Minerk: Thanks for this! I added the spare to mine this weekend. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I ordered a dash cam from Amazon but I have yet to try it out. I'll probably use it when I drive to Houston in early May. Do you have some pics of your setup? I need some ideas. I mainly followed a couple of youtube videos:  Hardwiring a Dashcam - 2022 WRX This one's decent for hard-wiring the front camera in - he leaves out a little bit of detail, and he gets the grounding strap location ...well, it's not "wrong" but the one he chose is way more difficult than it needs to be. If you're hard-wiring into the fuse panel, when you pop the right-most trim piece off in between the door and the dash, you'll see a phillips head screw there that holds a plastic piece to the metal cage. Loosen the screw, pry up the plastic a little bit, and seat the ground strap underneath the plastic so it makes contact with the metal. Then, screw it back down. WAY less bullshit, much easier to see and do. But for the most part the rest of it was what I followed for wiring it in and running cables - I zip-tied the power cable to the cables under the A-pillar and made sure to route it so it never gets in front of the airbag, pushed up under the headliner...since my car has EyeSight, I had to kind of squeeze the cables into the crevices there to get to the camera.  Vantrue Element 2 Front / Rear Dash Camera on 2019 Subaru WRX I also followed this one but mainly for running the cable to the rear of the car for the rear camera - this guy set his camera up to be run off a 12v socket, which, if that's what you want to do, here you go, perfect video...but he also ran a camera to the rear. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I have a Discount Tire location in my area that was able to get me a full size spare rim and tire for less than $200. It fits in the spare tire well but just barely. It's more weight but I feel better knowing it's back there. I'd much rather have that than a doughnut tire, or worse, a can of goop. Nice. I debated going the Modern Spare route, vs ebay donut. The limited number of times I've had to actually use my spare tire on anything is so small I couldn't justify 3x the wheel price. That said, a toy compressor and a can of goop is never a suitable substitute for a spare tire. |
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: I mainly followed a couple of youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjdRWvXXh_cThis one's decent for hard-wiring the front camera in - he leaves out a little bit of detail, and he gets the grounding strap location ...well, it's not "wrong" but the one he chose is way more difficult than it needs to be. If you're hard-wiring into the fuse panel, when you pop the right-most trim piece off in between the door and the dash, you'll see a phillips head screw there that holds a plastic piece to the metal cage. Loosen the screw, pry up the plastic a little bit, and seat the ground strap underneath the plastic so it makes contact with the metal. Then, screw it back down. WAY less bullshit, much easier to see and do. But for the most part the rest of it was what I followed for wiring it in and running cables - I zip-tied the power cable to the cables under the A-pillar and made sure to route it so it never gets in front of the airbag, pushed up under the headliner...since my car has EyeSight, I had to kind of squeeze the cables into the crevices there to get to the camera. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5QyX_S1qkoI also followed this one but mainly for running the cable to the rear of the car for the rear camera - this guy set his camera up to be run off a 12v socket, which, if that's what you want to do, here you go, perfect video...but he also ran a camera to the rear. |
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So, I had the day off yesterday and the weather was very pleasant. I was off because of Lundi Gras and took the morning to install the Group N transmission mount and the Whiteline positive shift kit bushings. The trick, most definitely, is to get the car up high enough so you can slide down to where the mount and cross-brace are located. The job is pretty straightforward. Eight bolts and two nuts hold the cross brace on. Remove the bolts/nuts and drop the cross brace. That brace is where the Whiteline bushings replace the (very) soft factory bushings. The transmission mount then comes out with just four 14mm bolts. Swap out with the Group N part and then reinstall everything in reverse order. I took my time, about 2 hours from start to finish. If you can physically get to the parts, it's not hard. You will need a torque wrench to get the tightness correct on the various bolts. I haven't driven the car much since the install but I did take it out for an errand. The shifting feels a lot more precise and tight. It's subtle but noticeable. Combined with the other mods, I find that it makes the car a lot easier to drive. You don't have to heavily feather the clutch anymore between 1-2 shifts. The car doesn't jerk and rock like it did, especially in the smaller gears. It seems to really smooth out the power output through the RMP range. I did not notice a change in NVH at all, although some people say they did when the did the swap. The biggest change in NVH was when I swapped out the pitch stop mount. The other transmission mods don't add to that in my experience from what I have seen. The last mod I know about that I have not done is the inserts for the rear differential bushings. I don't know that I'm going to try that one. Of all of the mods, I think the improvement from the inserts is probably the most subtle. People say it does something, but they can't really put their finger on what, exactly. In day to day driving, it's probably not noticeable. So I may just leave that one be since I've done the other mods that make the most difference. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Thanks for the write up. I picked up an inexpensive Amazon special a few months ago to play around with. I don't think I'll hard wire it, though. I'll probably use it on trips and the like unless we get a rash of reports of people trying to fake accidents. I've heard of cases where cons will back into you and then report that you rear ended them. And sigh my dyslexia strikes again - by "right most" I meant "left most" - that is, the dash trim piece between the door and the dash, on the left side of the fuse box going up to the top of the dash... If you're going to just use the 12v socket, then theres a couple other things you can do; I think one of the videos actually details that "fixed" install - run the wire from the dash into the headliner on the RIGHT side, down the right side A pillar, under the dash heading towards the center console; running it under bits of the center console into the arm rest cubbyhole to use that 12v socket there. There also is I think a box someone put together that lets you tap power off of the rear view mirror if yours has power going there - in that case, no cables to run, it keeps everything right up there at the top of the windshield, and it'll only work when the car is on. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: ...There also is I think a box someone put together that lets you tap power off of the rear view mirror if yours has power going there - in that case, no cables to run, it keeps everything right up there at the top of the windshield, and it'll only work when the car is on. I need to look into this. The mirror I have is the one with garage door openers and whatnot so it definitely has power. I want to power my V-1 from that, and would like to add a dash cam too. Having both front and rear would be great. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: I need to look into this. The mirror I have is the one with garage door openers and whatnot so it definitely has power. I want to power my V-1 from that, and would like to add a dash cam too. Having both front and rear would be great. Add a few that you like to your Amazon basket and keep an eye on the price fluctuations. When a coupon appears or it drops in price, grab it. I was able to get my cam for about 20% off that way. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Add a few that you like to your Amazon basket and keep an eye on the price fluctuations. When a coupon appears or it drops in price, grab it. I was able to get my cam for about 20% off that way. 
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Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: I need to look into this. The mirror I have is the one with garage door openers and whatnot so it definitely has power. I want to power my V-1 from that, and would like to add a dash cam too. Having both front and rear would be great. Originally Posted By Emoto: Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: ...There also is I think a box someone put together that lets you tap power off of the rear view mirror if yours has power going there - in that case, no cables to run, it keeps everything right up there at the top of the windshield, and it'll only work when the car is on. I need to look into this. The mirror I have is the one with garage door openers and whatnot so it definitely has power. I want to power my V-1 from that, and would like to add a dash cam too. Having both front and rear would be great. https://dongar.tech/ Dongar is the adapter company, just found it, went back over my post to reddit and that was one of the recommendations other than hard-wiring it in. Looks like you want this adapter: https://dongar.tech/products/dash-cam-power-adapter-10-pin-type-x-for-subaru-wrx-2022 |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: https://dongar.tech/ Dongar is the adapter company, just found it, went back over my post to reddit and that was one of the recommendations other than hard-wiring it in. Looks like you want this adapter: https://dongar.tech/products/dash-cam-power-adapter-10-pin-type-x-for-subaru-wrx-2022 Thank you, sir. I'll save those links for when I get around to it. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I asked the dealer about the Homelink mirror since I have one in the truck and I really like it. They told me I should get it aftermarket since it would be cheaper. I still found it to be fairly expensive, though. The car I bought was already on a dealer lot, so it had a few options that I probably wouldn't have chosen if I was ordering from the factory. In retrospect, it turned out I like the things that are on it. The fancy mirror was one of those things.
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Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I asked the dealer about the Homelink mirror since I have one in the truck and I really like it. They told me I should get it aftermarket since it would be cheaper. I still found it to be fairly expensive, though. I'd probably have argued it'd be cheaper in the long run for them to install it - their techs have done it before, they know how to do it cleanly, and you get the factory warranty on it iirc. Most of the stuff is pretty plug-and-play to be sure, but they've probably done it hundreds of times so they'll have way more experience and make it look nice. I know if I tried to do it, there'd be broken shit all over the place and the mirror would be hung cockeyed Then again I guess it depends on how much more they wanted to charge you for it. The subaru build site lists the compass/homelink auto dimming mirror as a $409 upgrade from the factory. SubaruOnlineParts has the same mirror (note there's different SKUs for manual and CVT cars) for $331. The install directions are here. It actually doesn't seem that bad to install...but, since at least my car has EyeSight, it seems like that would be a giant pain in the ass to do around those cameras and their shrouds. But, I didn't know these cars come with the compass mirror by default, which means they've got power going to them from the jump...which means using that Dongar thing above isn't a matter of "if your car's equipped for it" - every recent model WRX apparently has power there. I didn't know that... Edit - my Limited came with the homelink/auto-dimming mirror; I've had it before in the 2018 Legacy 3.6 that I had and it was awesome - and I'm really glad to have it back in this one. It makes life so much easier, between not getting blinded by that asshole lifted truck in the rear view at night, and being able to bump the mirror to open the garage door - and not having to worry about leaving a garage door opener in plain view. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Bogdan: Just an FYI any one can track you and your car at any time. |
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Originally Posted By Bogdan: Just an FYI any one can track you and your car at any time. I want to know how to remote start my manual WRX! |
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Okay, I've had a chance to drive around a bit more with the new transmission mount and Whiteline positive shift bushings. I think the best way to describe it is to tell you that it makes the car easier to drive. Shifting is much easier and intuitive. I've been driving manual transmissions for over 40 years and I could not drive my WRX well. Now I can. It makes it much easier to drive the car smoothly. I found it to be a more noticeable mod than the pitch stop. All of the parts working together, though, firm up the feel of the transmission. I decided to go ahead and install the bushing inserts and replace the rear differential carrier altogether with the Cusco part. I want to be able to report to you guys if it's a mod worth your time. I've heard generally good things about the bushing inserts and the carrier mod, that it makes the rear feel more planted. It makes sense given how squishy the factory bushings are. The pitch stop, transmission mount, and crossmember bushings are definitely worth doing. The shifter bushing and shift stop mods are also good to do, and inexpensive. It makes a big difference in how the car feels, especially for a daily driver. I'll let you guys know about the rear differential bushing mods. This is the carrier I ordered: 
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Nice; I need to figure out a way to get under the car to do the shift bushing...it seems like a must-have. The Group-N pitch stop and transmission mounts as well. One of these days I should get a couple of jack stands and just bite the bullet and do it...but first I need to clean the garage floor, because I don't want all that shit on my back and it's way too dirty for a creeper to roll I also need to watch a lot more videos of people swapping the shifter bushing out. And I need to wait for my right shoulder to heal...it froze up maybe 4 or 5 months ago and I still can't really move it around as much as I want (going for my wallet when seated in the car for example - excruciating. Doing that while standing though...not a problem) I just made an appointment to have my winter tires de-rimmed and summer tires put back on - just in time for it to have a high of 30 tomorrow, and then again next Monday...but that should hopefully be the last blast of the season, and I'm not worried that it's going to dump a bunch of snow at this point anymore. I need to drop the memory card out of the camera in the car and see how that's going. One of the disclaimers in my camera's manual is "during summer, set parking mode to collision only" - i.e. don't have it look for movement and then turn on; only if something jostles the car, then dump to memory card. And I found out the reason for that by poking around online - apparently if you keep the car out in the summer, sunlight can set it off more frequently, is my understanding. I park in my garage so that might not be a big deal but we'll see I guess. One of those "I hope I never actually need to use this thing" kind of things
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"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Nice; I need to figure out a way to get under the car to do the shift bushing...it seems like a must-have. The Group-N pitch stop and transmission mounts as well. One of these days I should get a couple of jack stands and just bite the bullet and do it...but first I need to clean the garage floor, because I don't want all that shit on my back and it's way too dirty for a creeper to roll I also need to watch a lot more videos of people swapping the shifter bushing out. And I need to wait for my right shoulder to heal...it froze up maybe 4 or 5 months ago and I still can't really move it around as much as I want (going for my wallet when seated in the car for example - excruciating. Doing that while standing though...not a problem) I just made an appointment to have my winter tires de-rimmed and summer tires put back on - just in time for it to have a high of 30 tomorrow, and then again next Monday...but that should hopefully be the last blast of the season, and I'm not worried that it's going to dump a bunch of snow at this point anymore. I need to drop the memory card out of the camera in the car and see how that's going. One of the disclaimers in my camera's manual is "during summer, set parking mode to collision only" - i.e. don't have it look for movement and then turn on; only if something jostles the car, then dump to memory card. And I found out the reason for that by poking around online - apparently if you keep the car out in the summer, sunlight can set it off more frequently, is my understanding. I park in my garage so that might not be a big deal but we'll see I guess. One of those "I hope I never actually need to use this thing" kind of things |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Okay, I've had a chance to drive around a bit more with the new transmission mount and Whiteline positive shift bushings. I think the best way to describe it is to tell you that it makes the car easier to drive. Shifting is much easier and intuitive. I've been driving manual transmissions for over 40 years and I could not drive my WRX well. Now I can. It makes it much easier to drive the car smoothly. I found it to be a more noticeable mod than the pitch stop. All of the parts working together, though, firm up the feel of the transmission. I decided to go ahead and install the bushing inserts and replace the rear differential carrier altogether with the Cusco part. I want to be able to report to you guys if it's a mod worth your time. I've heard generally good things about the bushing inserts and the carrier mod, that it makes the rear feel more planted. It makes sense given how squishy the factory bushings are. The pitch stop, transmission mount, and crossmember bushings are definitely worth doing. The shifter bushing and shift stop mods are also good to do, and inexpensive. It makes a big difference in how the car feels, especially for a daily driver. I'll let you guys know about the rear differential bushing mods. This is the carrier I ordered: https://kaijumotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/products-82840853_187314962420079_2653141112809586688_n.jpg Sweet! Yes there is lots of play in the factory bushing and when you add them all together it makes for lots of slop. |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
| Any online installation guides you can point to (for any of this stuff) would be very interesting. Tightening up the shifting seems worth doing, but I'd like to see what I am getting into in detail if at all possible. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By TripleC: Sweet! Yes there is lots of play in the factory bushing and when you add them all together it makes for lots of slop. |