2024 Subaru WRX (Page 21 of 22)
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Originally Posted By Emoto: I remember you trying to chase down various noises. I will have to see if I can't add some of these here and there. The whole back is self-adhesive so it is easy to peel and stick. Is it hard to pull a door card off? This is a good video showing how to remove the panel to access the inside of the door. Link Adding sound mats does make a noticeable difference. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Pulling off the door card is a bit unnerving the first time you do it. But it gets easy once you do it a few times. There are two screws to remove and the rest is pop clips. You have to unclip two wiring harnesses and unhook the door lock and door pull cables. But those are easy. This is a good video showing how to remove the panel to access the inside of the door. Link Adding sound mats does make a noticeable difference. Thanks, I'll give that a look! |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Thanks, I'll give that a look! Does your back dash rattle and buzz? Mine did, like crazy, before I flipped it over and coated the underside of it with the matting. It's quiet now. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I had to remove all four door cards when I got the windows tinted. I've also replaced all of the speakers as well. It's not bad at all once you get the hang of it. I may remove the door cards again at some point to add sound deadening directly to the back side of the sheet metal. I haven't done that yet. I've mostly focused on the cards themselves to quiet them down. It's fun to tinker with it. Does your back dash rattle and buzz? Mine did, like crazy, before I flipped it over and coated the underside of it with the matting. It's quiet now. I don't think my cards make any noise. At least not that I've noticed. I was thinking that the sheet metal was where the sound deadening material should go. I've heard nothing from the back dash either. I have a bunch of this material, though, so it may end up everywhere, lol. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I had to remove all four door cards when I got the windows tinted. I've also replaced all of the speakers as well. It's not bad at all once you get the hang of it. I may remove the door cards again at some point to add sound deadening directly to the back side of the sheet metal. I haven't done that yet. I've mostly focused on the cards themselves to quiet them down. It's fun to tinker with it. Does your back dash rattle and buzz? Mine did, like crazy, before I flipped it over and coated the underside of it with the matting. It's quiet now. Why did you have to remove your door panels when you got your windows tinted? I've had a dozen vehicles with tint and never heard of anyone doing this |
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Originally Posted By Badlatitude: Why did you have to remove your door panels when you got your windows tinted? I've had a dozen vehicles with tint and never heard of anyone doing this |
| I had to pull the rear end links yesterday (again). They were squeaking. Sigh. I took the opportunity to adjust them again. I think I may finally have it right. I adjusted them so there is no load on them at rest. I wonder if that may have been a big part of the problem all along. We'll see. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I had to pull the rear end links yesterday (again). They were squeaking. Sigh. I took the opportunity to adjust them again. I think I may finally have it right. I adjusted them so there is no load on them at rest. I wonder if that may have been a big part of the problem all along. We'll see. Squeaking and creaking. Frustrated, I decided to let it go for the day. I wondered if perhaps it wasn't the end links at all but something else. It could have been the bushings for the sway bar. That didn't make sense to be because the last time I took everything apart, I greased the bushings up pretty good. They are polyurethane, so they will squeak if they get dry. The aftermarket brackets I installed have grease zerks so I decided this morning, just for Schlitz and giggles, to shoot some grease in 'em. So I lifted the rear of the car and got it done. Pressed up and down on the rear of the car. Quiet as a mouse. |
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I'm thinking about replacing the alternator pulley with the lighter Perrin part. The install doesn't look bad. I think, like many of the installs I've done, it's more of an efficiency mod than a power mod. The lighter pulley helps with throttle response, allegedly. There is also a lighter pulley for the water pump. However, for the alternator pulley, you need an impact ratchet. I don't have one of those. Prime Days are coming up so perhaps it's a good time to get one. Everyone doing okay? It's been quiet here. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Okay, I stand corrected. Yesterday afternoon, I loosed the end links again and made some minor adjustments. They should be spot-on now. Sure that I had fixed the squeaking and creaking, I pushed down on the rear of the car. Squeaking and creaking. Frustrated, I decided to let it go for the day. I wondered if perhaps it wasn't the end links at all but something else. It could have been the bushings for the sway bar. That didn't make sense to be because the last time I took everything apart, I greased the bushings up pretty good. They are polyurethane, so they will squeak if they get dry. The aftermarket brackets I installed have grease zerks so I decided this morning, just for Schlitz and giggles, to shoot some grease in 'em. So I lifted the rear of the car and got it done. Pressed up and down on the rear of the car. Quiet as a mouse. So, you're telling me that lubricating things can stop squeaks???  Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I'm thinking about replacing the alternator pulley with the lighter Perrin part. The install doesn't look bad. I think, like many of the installs I've done, it's more of an efficiency mod than a power mod. The lighter pulley helps with throttle response, allegedly. There is also a lighter pulley for the water pump. However, for the alternator pulley, you need an impact ratchet. I don't have one of those. Prime Days are coming up so perhaps it's a good time to get one. Everyone doing okay? It's been quiet here. I suppose that a lighter pulley would theoretically contribute to faster engine response, but I'd be surprised if you could feel a difference. Impact ratchet as opposed to a regular impact wrench? I just used a big pistol shaped air impact wrench (to remove mower deck blade bolts )that I bought from Harbor Freight when they were still named Harbor Freight Salvage in the mid-1980s for $23.95 and it is still kicking, so if I were in the market today I'd go with HF. If I worked at a tire shop doing lug nuts all day, I might spring for a name brand. Doing ok, just haven't had much to say. I enjoy when people post updates to this thread. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Okay, I stand corrected. Yesterday afternoon, I loosed the end links again and made some minor adjustments. They should be spot-on now. Sure that I had fixed the squeaking and creaking, I pushed down on the rear of the car. Squeaking and creaking. Frustrated, I decided to let it go for the day. I wondered if perhaps it wasn't the end links at all but something else. It could have been the bushings for the sway bar. That didn't make sense to be because the last time I took everything apart, I greased the bushings up pretty good. They are polyurethane, so they will squeak if they get dry. The aftermarket brackets I installed have grease zerks so I decided this morning, just for Schlitz and giggles, to shoot some grease in 'em. So I lifted the rear of the car and got it done. Pressed up and down on the rear of the car. Quiet as a mouse. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I had to pull the rear end links yesterday (again). They were squeaking. Sigh. I took the opportunity to adjust them again. I think I may finally have it right. I adjusted them so there is no load on them at rest. I wonder if that may have been a big part of the problem all along. We'll see. Squeaking and creaking. Frustrated, I decided to let it go for the day. I wondered if perhaps it wasn't the end links at all but something else. It could have been the bushings for the sway bar. That didn't make sense to be because the last time I took everything apart, I greased the bushings up pretty good. They are polyurethane, so they will squeak if they get dry. The aftermarket brackets I installed have grease zerks so I decided this morning, just for Schlitz and giggles, to shoot some grease in 'em. So I lifted the rear of the car and got it done. Pressed up and down on the rear of the car. Quiet as a mouse. I have always used dry teflon spray lube on all vehicle bushings [and leaf springs ends and between the individual leaves]. Works well and doesn't rot/break down rubber. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By Emoto: So, you're telling me that lubricating things can stop squeaks??? I suppose that a lighter pulley would theoretically contribute to faster engine response, but I'd be surprised if you could feel a difference. Impact ratchet as opposed to a regular impact wrench? I just used a big pistol shaped air impact wrench (to remove mower deck blade bolts )that I bought from Harbor Freight when they were still named Harbor Freight Salvage in the mid-1980s for $23.95 and it is still kicking, so if I were in the market today I'd go with HF. If I worked at a tire shop doing lug nuts all day, I might spring for a name brand. Doing ok, just haven't had much to say. I enjoy when people post updates to this thread. I consider the pulleys to be more efficiency upgrades than power mods. With less rotational mass, it should take less energy to move the part. I agree, we're only talking about a half-pound at most. It seems like an easy install, though, and the part itself isn't expensive. If there's a difference that can be felt, I'm sure it's extremely subtle. I did an oil change about a week ago. This time, I went with 3 quarts of 0w40 PUP with 2 quarts of 5w30 PUP. The oil gets hotter now. I hit a new upper record of 223F on I-10 west. It has to be the heavier oil. I'm going to keep an eye on the catch can to see what happens. I'd like to install an oil cooler but the kits are pretty expensive. On the next oil change, I'll go with something a bit thinner and see how the engine likes it. I'll check out HF. I've wanted an air ratchet for a while and will need one if I install the Perrin alternator pulley. Prime Days starts tomorrow so I'll check Amazon too. |
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Yeah, if I see zerks, then I think it means I am supposed to put some grease in there. I've only gone wrong when I've ignored that thought. I agree that less rotational mass means some amount of faster response and less energy required. What I do not know, is if the higher mass of the OEM piece acts as a sort of flywheel smoothing out rotation, or if that is even a thing. I also agree with your assessment about the heavier weight oil making for more drag and heat. You may see a slight drop in mpg. I've stayed with 0w-20 so far and haven't seen much temp variation. I was stuck in stop and go traffic leaving Cape Cod last week and I don't think it got above 212 or 214, if I recall correctly. Is your top number just from personal observation, or is that recorded somewhere one can look at? I have a handful of air tools from my wrenching days. I used a 1/4" air ratchet on bikes a lot. Great for small fasteners like on bodywork. Handy when you need to move a fastener past a lot of threads. My 3/8 air ratchet stopped working recently, so I have to take it apart and see if I can fix it. It was given to me around '84 or '85 and it was old then, so who knows what I'll find. My 1/2" gun for high torque, an air drill, and a right angle air die grinder, and a 3/8 butterfly stye round out the bunch. The butterfly style one was the one I used most on all but the most stubborn larger fasteners. Handy size and decent power. The 1/2" only came out if the butterfly failed or if it was a big fastener torqued down hard. I should point out that not all air wrenches are "impact" wrenches, so they don't all have that hammering sort of force application that helps loosen stuck fasteners. You're probably already aware of that, but maybe someone will be helped by knowing that. Any idea what the torque spec is on that pulley nut or bolt? Personally, I'd use a torque wrench on that just so I wouldn't worry. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Yeah, if I see zerks, then I think it means I am supposed to put some grease in there. I've only gone wrong when I've ignored that thought. I agree that less rotational mass means some amount of faster response and less energy required. What I do not know, is if the higher mass of the OEM piece acts as a sort of flywheel smoothing out rotation, or if that is even a thing. I also agree with your assessment about the heavier weight oil making for more drag and heat. You may see a slight drop in mpg. I've stayed with 0w-20 so far and haven't seen much temp variation. I was stuck in stop and go traffic leaving Cape Cod last week and I don't think it got above 212 or 214, if I recall correctly. Is your top number just from personal observation, or is that recorded somewhere one can look at? I have a handful of air tools from my wrenching days. I used a 1/4" air ratchet on bikes a lot. Great for small fasteners like on bodywork. Handy when you need to move a fastener past a lot of threads. My 3/8 air ratchet stopped working recently, so I have to take it apart and see if I can fix it. It was given to me around '84 or '85 and it was old then, so who knows what I'll find. My 1/2" gun for high torque, an air drill, and a right angle air die grinder, and a 3/8 butterfly stye round out the bunch. The butterfly style one was the one I used most on all but the most stubborn larger fasteners. Handy size and decent power. The 1/2" only came out if the butterfly failed or if it was a big fastener torqued down hard. I should point out that not all air wrenches are "impact" wrenches, so they don't all have that hammering sort of force application that helps loosen stuck fasteners. You're probably already aware of that, but maybe someone will be helped by knowing that. Any idea what the torque spec is on that pulley nut or bolt? Personally, I'd use a torque wrench on that just so I wouldn't worry. On the pulleys, I would probably leave the crank pulley alone since it's designed to balance things out. I would just change out the water pump and alternator pulleys since they are easy to get to and you can knock about a pound off of the total weight of both. Not a huge difference but more efficient. I wanted to experiment a bit with the heavier oil to see what would happen but I'm content to discover that 5w30 appears to be the sweet spot. A bit more robust than the 0w20 but not as thick as the 0w40. I'm sure it's going to be a nasty hot summer here so I'm okay with the thicker oil in there now. I'll probably be due for the next change around the end of the summer, so the timing should be good. The top oil temperature was observed while on the interstate. Granted, it was hot as blazes and I was clipping along pretty well, around 80-85 mph. The oil usually doesn't get above 220 unless I have the engine RPMs up above 3k. I read the Perrin instructions and they specifically noted to use an impact ratchet to loosen and tighten the center nut holding the alternator pulley on the shaft. I believe it might have something to do with location of the pulley. There seems to be no way to hold the pulley in place while you tighten the nut. The water pump pulley is not held on the same way so I'm guessing you can use a standard ratchet for that install. |
| I ordered the Perrin alternator pulley. I'm curious to see if it makes a difference, one that I can notice. I decided to skip the water pump pulley, at least for now since the OEM part doesn't seem much heavier than the Perrin alternative. And it's a lot more expensive. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I ordered the Perrin alternator pulley. I'm curious to see if it makes a difference, one that I can notice. I decided to skip the water pump pulley, at least for now since the OEM part doesn't seem much heavier than the Perrin alternative. And it's a lot more expensive. Always interested in the mods you do and how they turn out. 
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Always interested in the mods you do and how they turn out. |
Okay, I tried to replace the alternator pulley with the Perrin part this afternoon. The project did not go so well, I'm afraid to say. This is the part: I went with the red since I have other red parts under the hood. It's pretty light, much lighter than the OEM part. I have an AMS pulley cover. I wallowed out the allen head screw trying to remove it so I could remove the cover. I had to drill it out to remove it. That ate up a lot of time. The pulley itself is held in place with a 17mm hex nut. I tried for about a hour trying to break that nut, unsuccessfully. It's on there tight. I hit it with an air impact wrench but it was a no go. The problem is that when you turn the nut, the entire shaft spins with it. I think I am going to have to use a pipe wrench with rubber buffers to hold the pulley stationary while I try to break that nut free. Then I dropped the 17mm hex driver into the engine. I had to remove both skid plates under the car to fish it out. And it was hot. Nasty, ugly, awful hot. I finally decided to stick a pin in it for now to regroup, tell you guys, and ask Perrin for advice. Indeed, I did reach out to Perrin to ask them if there are any tricks to getting that nut off. Okay, that didn't sound right. Moving on, the WRX is down until I get this figured out. I also had to reach out to AMS to see if they will sell me another hex head bolt for the pulley cover since I ruined the one I have drilling it out. If they won't, I'll have to try to match it up at Lowes. Good times. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Okay, I tried to replace the alternator pulley with the Perrin part this afternoon. The project did not go so well, I'm afraid to say. This is the part: https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vvHjk8W/0/L9TbjqT9fQfrxnnVqTkG4r7G6kHp927FKGCWHSmN7/X3/i-vvHjk8W-X3.jpg I went with the red since I have other red parts under the hood. It's pretty light, much lighter than the OEM part. I have an AMS pulley cover. I wallowed out the allen head screw trying to remove it so I could remove the cover. I had to drill it out to remove it. That ate up a lot of time. The pulley itself is held in place with a 17mm hex nut. I tried for about a hour trying to break that nut, unsuccessfully. It's on there tight. I hit it with an air impact wrench but it was a no go. The problem is that when you turn the nut, the entire shaft spins with it. I think I am going to have to use a pipe wrench with rubber buffers to hold the pulley stationary while I try to break that nut free. Then I dropped the 17mm hex driver into the engine. I had to remove both skid plates under the car to fish it out. And it was hot. Nasty, ugly, awful hot. I finally decided to stick a pin in it for now to regroup, tell you guys, and ask Perrin for advice. Indeed, I did reach out to Perrin to ask them if there are any tricks to getting that nut off. Okay, that didn't sound right. Moving on, the WRX is down until I get this figured out. I also had to reach out to AMS to see if they will sell me another hex head bolt for the pulley cover since I ruined the one I have drilling it out. If they won't, I'll have to try to match it up at Lowes. Good times. Damn, that sucks! Do you use left-handed drill bits when drilling out a bolt? If not, you should because sometimes they do the work for you and unscrew it as they drill. Why did it get messed up? Was it the wrong size bit, or were you not able to get it in straight? There must be a way to hold things still. That would be good info to have. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Damn, that sucks! Do you use left-handed drill bits when drilling out a bolt? If not, you should because sometimes they do the work for you and unscrew it as they drill. Why did it get messed up? Was it the wrong size bit, or were you not able to get it in straight? There must be a way to hold things still. That would be good info to have. I think I know what the problem is. My air wrench isn't making enough torque to break the nut free. My compressor setup is too small. I need to either get a bigger air compressor or I need to invest in a battery powered wrench. A new compressor will be a few hundred dollars. Ugh. I'm still considering options. I will probably try a bigger and much shorter hose to see if I can minimize pressure loss and get the air wrench to work well enough to get the job done. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I have a set of EZ-Out bits for just such occasions. I was able to back the bolt out, eventually, and remove the pulley cover. I'm not sure why it was seized up. I sent an email to AMS about getting a replacement but they have not responded yet. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I have a set of EZ-Out bits for just such occasions. I was able to back the bolt out, eventually, and remove the pulley cover. I'm not sure why it was seized up. I sent an email to AMS about getting a replacement but they have not responded yet. Are the EZ Out bits left-handed? Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I think I know what the problem is. My air wrench isn't making enough torque to break the nut free. My compressor setup is too small. I need to either get a bigger air compressor or I need to invest in a battery powered wrench. A new compressor will be a few hundred dollars. Ugh. I'm still considering options. I will probably try a bigger and much shorter hose to see if I can minimize pressure loss and get the air wrench to work well enough to get the job done. How many PSI is your compressor and what is the torque spec on your air wrench? Still, I bet there is a service procedure for holding the belt pulleys in place, which I would want so I could torque the nuts/bolts to spec so I could drive without worrying they'd come flying off on me. I don't trust in ugga-dugga, LOL. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Are the EZ Out bits left-handed? How many PSI is your compressor and what is the torque spec on your air wrench? Still, I bet there is a service procedure for holding the belt pulleys in place, which I would want so I could torque the nuts/bolts to spec so I could drive without worrying they'd come flying off on me. I don't trust in ugga-dugga, LOL. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: My compressor is around 125 psi. But the real problem is air flow. I was trying to use a 1/4" hose. I am upgrading to a 3/8" hose and will see if that will allow me to finish the project. That may well do the trick. I don't know about our WRXes but some vehicles have a wrench that grabs the a/c pulley so you can hold everything in place while you torque. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: That may well do the trick. I don't know about our WRXes but some vehicles have a wrench that grabs the a/c pulley so you can hold everything in place while you torque. This reminds me of when I installed the Cobb shift plate. It took me a week to get that project finished. I kept having to stop to order parts. Now I'm waiting for that hose to come in. |
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Nice! What made the difference? Was it the larger air hose? Unrelated: Check out this page that has an interactive diagram of the fuse boxes. This is for my year (2023) but maybe the newer ones are the same? (Don't know) https://www.startmycar.com/subaru/wrx/info/fusebox/2023 |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Nice! What made the difference? Was it the larger air hose? Unrelated: Check out this page that has an interactive diagram of the fuse boxes. This is for my year (2023) but maybe the newer ones are the same? (Don't know) https://www.startmycar.com/subaru/wrx/info/fusebox/2023 I believe the VB years all share the same fuse box layout. Thanks for the link. It's a good resource to have. When I upgraded my horns, and added a second set, I also upgraded the fuses. It comes with a set of two 5A fuses. I upgraded both the 15A fuses since the Hella horns can draw a lot of power. And I use them quite a bit here. |
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A sticker to consider. Attached File |
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https://www.roadandtrack.com/news/a73257286/subaru-is-dedicating-a-team-to-making-its-cars-more-fun/ Subaru Is Dedicating a Team to Making Its Cars More Fun The new Sports Vehicle Planning Office is possible because of Subaru’s surging hybrid and EV sales. By Fred SmithPublished: Jul 24, 2026 12:14 PM EDT Subaru has three different new manual performance cars coming soon, at least in Japan. All three new cars were announced back in June, the fruits of a new Sports Vehicle Planning Office meant to re-grow the brand’s once-vibrant performance lineup in its home market. The new team is built under the automaker’s Product Innovation Division, where the SVPO will be responsible for handling the sorts of cars that made Subaru a big name among enthusiasts in the first place. In other words, SVPO will likely be the group responsible for the cars getting big turbochargers, sharp suspensions, and manual transmissions. It is a welcome bit of news for a company that has been getting further and further away from its best driver’s cars, and according to CTO Tetsuro Fujinuki, we can thank hybrids and EVs for the change of heart. In an interview with Japan’s Best Car published earlier in July, Fujinuki says that the company “couldn't pursue power with the current 2.4L engine installed in the WRX S4” because of its fleet average fuel economy. Surging sales of hybrids and rising popularity of a lineup of recently updated EVs, have helped ease that problem, opening the door to re-inject high-performance options into dealerships in Japan, and hopefully, beyond. He notes that the tooling for the manual transmission the company used in the last STi, the TY85, was still around and the design could be brought out of mothballs for new cars. That gearbox, he says, can take over 440 ft-lbs of torque and should accept more horsepower than the existing CVT in the WRX. Notably, he points out the 350 hp output of the variant of the FA24 engine that the company uses in Super Taikyu racing. That seems like a possible hint of what kind of power the SVPO team could be targeting for their top products in the near future. The new models are not yet confirmed for America, but given that the U.S. has kept a manual WRX through even this lull in Subaru performance, the market seems like a natural fit for any fast new Subaru coming down the pipeline. |
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It's nice to hear that Subaru, at least in Japan, is refocusing on performance vehicles again. Now, as for what SOA plans to do, who knows. For a while, it felt like the company might abandon the WRX entirely to focus on their SUV line. That makes sense given how popular their SUVs are. With the aggressive new pricing, it seems like Subaru is taking a new interest in the WRX. And maybe even a modest return to manual transmissions. I wish we had the STI transmissions in our WRXs. I'm not tuned and I don't really drive aggressively. But, it'd be nice to have the option. I'm thinking about installing a short shifter, maybe the one from Torque Solutions. However, I have the Cobb shift plate. So, a short shifter would make shifts extremely short. I think the reduction with both options installed is something like 60-65%. I'm not sure if I'd want to go that radical. There's the shift detents from Perrin. I might try that. Folks seem to like it. I'm waiting for Overtake to release their post MAF intake piping. It was supposed to be ready back in the Spring but they said maybe next month. Good times. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: It's nice to hear that Subaru, at least in Japan, is refocusing on performance vehicles again. Now, as for what SOA plans to do, who knows. For a while, it felt like the company might abandon the WRX entirely to focus on their SUV line. That makes sense given how popular their SUVs are. With the aggressive new pricing, it seems like Subaru is taking a new interest in the WRX. And maybe even a modest return to manual transmissions. I wish we had the STI transmissions in our WRXs. I'm not tuned and I don't really drive aggressively. But, it'd be nice to have the option. I'm thinking about installing a short shifter, maybe the one from Torque Solutions. However, I have the Cobb shift plate. So, a short shifter would make shifts extremely short. I think the reduction with both options installed is something like 60-65%. I'm not sure if I'd want to go that radical. There's the shift detents from Perrin. I might try that. Folks seem to like it. I'm waiting for Overtake to release their post MAF intake piping. It was supposed to be ready back in the Spring but they said maybe next month. Good times. Yeah, sounds like the old STI transmission has returned, at least to some extent. Having newly manufactured ones possibly becoming available seems like a good thing. I have the OEM short shifter on mine and I like it, although to be honest, it doesn't really seem all that short. |
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Yeah, sounds like the old STI transmission has returned, at least to some extent. Having newly manufactured ones possibly becoming available seems like a good thing. I have the OEM short shifter on mine and I like it, although to be honest, it doesn't really seem all that short. The STI shifter, from what I understand, reduces throw by about 15%. That would be noticeable, but only barely. The shift plates, like the Cobb part I have, can reduce throw by around 35%. That is very noticeable. If you install something like that, you'd notice a big difference. I really like the way my car shifts now. The shorter throws feel great. I've read if you go too short, it makes shifting difficult unless you get a heavier shift knob. Anything beyond 50% would probably be too short. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Especially if it's a transmission designed specifically for the VB chassis. The ones for the VA will fit but it requires modification of some of the parts. There would probably be a lot more people switching to the beefier transmission if that happens. The STI shifter, from what I understand, reduces throw by about 15%. That would be noticeable, but only barely. The shift plates, like the Cobb part I have, can reduce throw by around 35%. That is very noticeable. If you install something like that, you'd notice a big difference. I really like the way my car shifts now. The shorter throws feel great. I've read if you go too short, it makes shifting difficult unless you get a heavier shift knob. Anything beyond 50% would probably be too short. In the early 1970s, my friend Andy's family car was a VW bus. The camper one with the top that popped up and an interior with a table and whatnot. I guess his mom thought she would be taking the family camping, which I don't think they ever did. We used to dive around aimlessly in it all the time. We'd put on hundreds of miles without ever leaving town. Andy drove, but from the passenger seat, for fun, I manipulated the shift lever for all the shifting. This required him to tell me when. Surprisingly, this worked well and we never ground the gears. That was a looooooong throw shifter. 
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Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: In the early 1970s, my friend Andy's family car was a VW bus. The camper one with the top that popped up and an interior with a table and whatnot. I guess his mom thought she would be taking the family camping, which I don't think they ever did. We used to dive around aimlessly in it all the time. We'd put on hundreds of miles without ever leaving town. Andy drove, but from the passenger seat, for fun, I manipulated the shift lever for all the shifting. This required him to tell me when. Surprisingly, this worked well and we never ground the gears. That was a looooooong throw shifter. In early high school, I drove a 1975 Dodge Power Wagon truck. It had a 4 on the floor shifter. I think it was almost three feet long. Throw was similar to a big rig. No a/c, but it was a fun truck to drive. It would be quite nasty today but back then, you had to go with what you had with most everything in life. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I remember those VW vans. They were one of the first live-in vans that started the CA trend. I have a friend who, back in the early 1990s, lived in a Chevy van at Marina del Rey in Los Angeles. I remember going to visit him and thinking it was crazy he was living in a van but he seemed quite comfortable there. The climate was mild and there was a very nice public restroom a few yards away with showers. There seemed to be a community who lived in vehicles there. We were all young and single at the time so it was much easier to live by the seat of our pants. A year after that, he was back in Houston. In early high school, I drove a 1975 Dodge Power Wagon truck. It had a 4 on the floor shifter. I think it was almost three feet long. Throw was similar to a big rig. No a/c, but it was a fun truck to drive. It would be quite nasty today but back then, you had to go with what you had with most everything in life. Yeah, when you're young and single, anything goes. This is the exact color and model: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-volkswagen-type-ii-camper/  In other news, the WRX saw a 250% increase in sales when they lowered the price. [url=https://carbuzz.com/subaru-wrx-sales-increased-after-sales-drop/[/url] |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Yeah, when you're young and single, anything goes. This is the exact color and model: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-volkswagen-type-ii-camper/ https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/1972_volkswagen_type-ii-camper_1972_volkswagen_type-ii-camper_8083f95f-4a3a-45ce-85e0-62f22d034127-FvFbGq-97640-97641-scaled.jpg?resize=940,627 In other news, the WRX saw a 250% increase in sales when they lowered the price. [url=https://carbuzz.com/subaru-wrx-sales-increased-after-sales-drop/[/url] I've been reading the same thing about WRX sales. The 2025 price increase was a major blunder for Subaru, as was the decision to discontinue the Base model. Oddly, I'm reading the new Base models no longer have the wiring harness and pinned relay socket for the factory fog light option. I'm not sure why Subaru decided to do that. You can still install the fog lights but you have to run your own, custom, wiring for it. And, with no ability to install the OEM relay, you won't get the lighted dash indicator when you turn them on. Having the OEM wiring made the install much, much easier and a lot cleaner. I don't know why the wiring was deleted for the 2026 MY. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Seeing the country in something like that was a young man's game. I'd want something a bit bigger and nicer if I were to travel that way now, lol. I've been reading the same thing about WRX sales. The 2025 price increase was a major blunder for Subaru, as was the decision to discontinue the Base model. Oddly, I'm reading the new Base models no longer have the wiring harness and pinned relay socket for the factory fog light option. I'm not sure why Subaru decided to do that. You can still install the fog lights but you have to run your own, custom, wiring for it. And, with no ability to install the OEM relay, you won't get the lighted dash indicator when you turn them on. Having the OEM wiring made the install much, much easier and a lot cleaner. I don't know why the wiring was deleted for the 2026 MY. Yeah, I wouldn't want to live out of a VW bus, either. OTOH, have you seen the prices on the "nice" RVs?  Deleting the wiring and relay was probably a cost saving decision. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: Yeah, I wouldn't want to live out of a VW bus, either. OTOH, have you seen the prices on the "nice" RVs? Deleting the wiring and relay was probably a cost saving decision. Yeah, RVs are extremely expensive. And I've read that build quality is terrible for most all of them. After Covid, things got even worse than they already were. I have an uncle who has a rather fancy 5th wheel travel trailer. However, he's retired now and has time to travel. I still have to work and don't get to travel much these days. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Subaru may have gotten frustrated with the aftermarket fog light options that could use the factory wiring. They might rather Base owners not have an OEM fog light option at all than to be able to easily install an aftermarket kit. The fog lights are now no longer listed as an option for the Base. Yeah, RVs are extremely expensive. And I've read that build quality is terrible for most all of them. After Covid, things got even worse than they already were. I have an uncle who has a rather fancy 5th wheel travel trailer. However, he's retired now and has time to travel. I still have to work and don't get to travel much these days. Being an old fart, several of my friends are also retired old farts. Two of them have those Mercedes big van-like RVs and one has a big 5th wheel trailer. They go all over with them. I've seen the insides and although I have never stayed over in one, it really doesn't seem that great. It probably sucks to drive any of them all day every day, too. I don't see myself ever buying one. You can pay for a lot of motel nights with what an RV costs. You may be correct about the fog light deal. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
| On my way home from work this afternoon, I got a notice on my head unit that it was ready to download and install an update. Since I was going to be stuck in traffic for the next hour, I said sure, why not? It took about 20 minutes to complete the process. I have no idea what the update did, though. I'll have to check to see which version I have now and Google it. It would be nice to have some stability features, that's for sure. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: It's nice to hear that Subaru, at least in Japan, is refocusing on performance vehicles again. Now, as for what SOA plans to do, who knows. For a while, it felt like the company might abandon the WRX entirely to focus on their SUV line. That makes sense given how popular their SUVs are. With the aggressive new pricing, it seems like Subaru is taking a new interest in the WRX. And maybe even a modest return to manual transmissions. I wish we had the STI transmissions in our WRXs. I'm not tuned and I don't really drive aggressively. But, it'd be nice to have the option. I'm thinking about installing a short shifter, maybe the one from Torque Solutions. However, I have the Cobb shift plate. So, a short shifter would make shifts extremely short. I think the reduction with both options installed is something like 60-65%. I'm not sure if I'd want to go that radical. There's the shift detents from Perrin. I might try that. Folks seem to like it. I'm waiting for Overtake to release their post MAF intake piping. It was supposed to be ready back in the Spring but they said maybe next month. Good times. After all that I still wish the back and forth motion in gear was tighter, but it's never going to be like say my old fox body Mustang hurst shifter tight (shifter cable vs. direct mount). I'm hopeful for the WRX future, but I won't hold my breath. They always overpromise early and under deliver each gen change. The last change in the VB was to a much better motor (FA24) but they only added a few HP over the FA20 motor and didn't have an STi. And though I don't mind the exterior of the VB, I know plenty of people who stayed away because it was so polarizing. |
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Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: On my way home from work this afternoon, I got a notice on my head unit that it was ready to download and install an update. Since I was going to be stuck in traffic for the next hour, I said sure, why not? It took about 20 minutes to complete the process. I have no idea what the update did, though. I'll have to check to see which version I have now and Google it. It would be nice to have some stability features, that's for sure. I see speculation on Reddit, but nothing solid enough to share yet. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Yup, mine got the update...as I was trying a new route to work, as there's construction that's blocked off the exit from the highway. I figured it out (I wound up putting my phone in my lap and just watching that for turns in Apple Maps), but god it was annoying at the wrong time And, it finished the update just as I was pulling into the McDs by work to get breakfast at the drive-thru...so it worked out time-wise. I didn't really want to sit at the parking garage and idle for a while for it to finish the update Haven't noticed any changes but Reddit (and I guess an Outback Forum, which has the same head unit in the previous gen) says it's mostly bug fixes and updates for Android Auto and Carplay so... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Yup, mine got the update...as I was trying a new route to work, as there's construction that's blocked off the exit from the highway. I figured it out (I wound up putting my phone in my lap and just watching that for turns in Apple Maps), but god it was annoying at the wrong time And, it finished the update just as I was pulling into the McDs by work to get breakfast at the drive-thru...so it worked out time-wise. I didn't really want to sit at the parking garage and idle for a while for it to finish the update Haven't noticed any changes but Reddit (and I guess an Outback Forum, which has the same head unit in the previous gen) says it's mostly bug fixes and updates for Android Auto and Carplay so... |
| nope, OTA - it happened when I was on the road not far from work. I'm told that it might also come across WiFi if you have your car connected to your home network? I'd be VERY surprised if it came over the phone in the background of Apple Carplay...I don't think it's that smart, not to mention they couldn't do that to someone who doesn't have an unlimited data plan basically. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
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Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: nope, OTA - it happened when I was on the road not far from work. I'm told that it might also come across WiFi if you have your car connected to your home network? I'd be VERY surprised if it came over the phone in the background of Apple Carplay...I don't think it's that smart, not to mention they couldn't do that to someone who doesn't have an unlimited data plan basically. So... your infotainment center has an internet connection? |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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Originally Posted By Emoto: So... your infotainment center has an internet connection? Originally Posted By Emoto: So... your infotainment center has an internet connection? I think they all do. Do you have XM in yours? If you go through a car wash, does it pop up with connection lost; try internet streaming? (Or words to that effect) Mine does… I don’t have a subscription for user internet so no idea how that’d work…or if it’d try to use my phone? Which would be weird since AT&T specifically disabled that on my iPhone. Anyway - worst case, if yours doesn’t upgrade OTA, if you connect to your home wifi and let the car idle for a bit I’m sure it’ll pop up there, too…otherwise, you should be able to download the update from subaru maps… AI Overview To update your Subaru WRX head unit, connect the system to a home or mobile Wi-Fi network, navigate to Settings > General > Software Update on the touchscreen display, and select Check for Updates. Alternatively, map and firmware updates can be downloaded via USB using Subaru Maps |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...