1990 EF Sedan Project: Engine in. Pg 11 (Page 2 of 12)
| The lower core support on these servers almost no function. You could just weld some tube on there and it would be stronger . That's pretty much what I'm doing with the crx. Only keeping the light mounts and welding a bar across the front to serve as core support and bumper support. I have a huge traction bar which is stronger than the OEM lower so I'm not even gonna put anything there . Gonna put a scirocco radiator down there in the void at a 45 angle soni can do an exit duct to the front of the hood probably |
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Got the bumper on, top garnish piece painted, painted the side moulding and the faded window trim. I need to fix the moster truck stance next - and the bad wiring Attached File |
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here is a crappy Photoshop that may be the direction I am heading. May do Te37s Attached File |
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I have a few other choices that are light but more affordable. Konig has some I like. Hypergrams Dekagram etc. Had an adventure today, Forgot I took a wheel off and reinstalled it with my impact. I never torque them down with it. I go back with a wrench. I forgot that part and nearly killed myself today. Fatigue and stupidity will fuck you right up. I drove way too far on it to my buddy's shop thinking it was a CV joint failure. Waiting on some parts to try to help the sloppy shifter and a cheapo wiring harness to ditch some of the bad connections. |
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Originally Posted By AA717driver: What I wouldn’t give for a restored Datsun 510 or LX like the OP’s. I had a ‘94 LX Civic coupe with a manual that was a blast. I have an imported civic from japan. I just painted it last week and my son has been having a blast having me take him whereever he wants in the civic. He told me the other day that it felt fast but he knew we weren’t going fast. I told him thats how stock 90’s hondas feel. |
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Car is stalled. I went through the shift linkage and installed solid aluminum bushings and welded the bitch pin hole and redrilled it on the U joint as it had a ton of slop. I drove it a bunch and it is loud asf with the new exhaust. It pops like crazy on decel. Sounds like an old Kawasaki triple that needs baffles and jetting. It put a huge stupid smile on my face even though I know it needs a better resonator and probably timing looked at. Three days ago I got in and cranked the car and it would not start. Pump did not prime. I played around with the loose and hanging main relay and it started but now it runs rough and has misfires/lugging. It;s either the fuel pump, timing, distributor or the terrible wiring someplace. I am a bit discouraged and busy so I have not done anything about it. I find myself at a crossroads of decisions:
I am also struggle with keeping the non-Vtech B20, addinga VTec head OR doing the K20 swap I intended. The B20 NA with no Vtec is plenty fun and it fits under the hood. The K20 may be an issue with the stock hood and an carbon Si hood is expensive. Additionally the new 2.25 exhaust would need to be at least 2.5" Other things I am mulling over.
Not a fan, Wheels looks too small to me. 15x8 +28 205 50 15 Attached File I like a 225 50 15 but they will probably rub like fuck and may need a spacer but I know what I like Attached File Attached File If I was made of money I would do what this guy did K24/turbo AWD, same as the blue one above Attached File Attached File As it is, I find myself in a money hole paying down some debt and have a houseguest staying in November requiring some house repairs. This makes me lean towards the teardown option for the car. Hoping to have funds for later and fall into some deals on either a B series head or a K20 |
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Originally Posted By ToledoXJ: Car is stalled. I went through the shift linkage and installed solid aluminum bushings and welded the bitch pin hole and redrilled it on the U joint as it had a ton of slop. I drove it a bunch and it is loud asf with the new exhaust. It pops like crazy on decel. Sounds like an old Kawasaki triple that needs baffles and jetting. It put a huge stupid smile on my face even though I know it needs a better resonator and probably timing looked at. Three days ago I got in and cranked the car and it would not start. Pump did not prime. I played around with the loose and hanging main relay and it started but now it runs rough and has misfires/lugging. It;s either the fuel pump, timing, distributor or the terrible wiring someplace. I am a bit discouraged and busy so I have not done anything about it. I find myself at a crossroads of decisions:
I am also struggle with keeping the non-Vtech B20, addinga VTec head OR doing the K20 swap I intended. The B20 NA with no Vtec is plenty fun and it fits under the hood. The K20 may be an issue with the stock hood and an carbon Si hood is expensive. Additionally the new 2.25 exhaust would need to be at least 2.5" Other things I am mulling over.
Not a fan, Wheels looks too small to me. 15x8 +28 205 50 15 https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/561345317_25136586585937011_176772111827-3647571.JPG I like a 225 50 15 but they will probably rub like fuck and may need a spacer but I know what I like https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/561367126_25136751672587169_581035845840-3647574.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/562380531_25136730572589279_213704722500-3647575.JPG If I was made of money I would do what this guy did K24/turbo AWD, same as the blue one above https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/571164802_10163492181727389_633850943327-3647576.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/568628421_10163492182777389_168820617809-3647577.JPG As it is, I find myself in a money hole paying down some debt and have a houseguest staying in November requiring some house repairs. This makes me lean towards the teardown option for the car. Hoping to have funds for later and fall into some deals on either a B series head or a K20 |
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Originally Posted By ToledoXJ: I have a few other choices that are light but more affordable. Konig has some I like. Hypergrams Dekagram etc. Had an adventure today, Forgot I took a wheel off and reinstalled it with my impact. I never torque them down with it. I go back with a wrench. I forgot that part and nearly killed myself today. Fatigue and stupidity will fuck you right up. I drove way too far on it to my buddy's shop thinking it was a CV joint failure. Waiting on some parts to try to help the sloppy shifter and a cheapo wiring harness to ditch some of the bad connections. I had a rear wheel fall off my S13. Low enough that the tire hit the fender and kept the wheel on the studs
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One of those days, None of my other projects went well. Tore apart my dishwasher for the 3rd time since breaking a glass in it. Seems to have died for good this time. Need to tear it all the way down and aim the parts shotgun at it. Put new headlights in my Crown Vic and went to adjust them and pulled the adjuster out of the housing. ![]() A couple project car successes though: Made a clean spot in my garage attic for parts and rearranged some stuff to make room for the EF teardown. Discussed with my kid where we would park his EG for winter. It'll be boxed in bad so mine will hopefully be a roller by spring. Had a convo with my buddy and he convinced me to get the wiring sorted before I burn it down driving it. He's probably right |
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Started the day moving shitboxes around and snapped a pic Attached File I was thinking about sorting out all the wiring and pulling the dash to do so so I can start the tuck and do a hydro clutch conversion when I just said fuck it and started at the rear bumper working my way forward. stopped at the dash/headliner/driveline. Save that for next week/weekend. Took me 3 hours to get it to this state. Attached File Attached File |
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@victorgonzales Paint question. It's gonna be winter soon. Temps are already in the 50s. My garage is heated but I do not want to paint inside it. Thoughts on setting up all the parts ready for paint, do all my mixing and then run a part outside, shoot it and carry it in to dry? I have done this on a couple pieces and so far no disasters but do you see any huge issues with it (besides handling wet painted parts) I may do single stage black on the jams, interior and bottoms of the hood/trunk. My 1st shot at using base clear on the outside surfaces. (may just do single stage again. I am just not impressed so far with it's durability. I have a bunch of crappy trees over my property that drop all kinds of junk on the cars |
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As long as it stays heated until whatever the required cure cycle is in spec sheets. Without a bake cure clear it's just really important it stays above minimum temp for a while. Otherwise it may not harden properly. If it's cold use a fast curing clearcoat and hardener for high production use. If you use a slow show clear they take auch longer time to cure and a drop in temp might compromise it. As far as single stage. I'm not a fan for a ton of reasons. It's not nearly as durable as a decent clear being the main reason. As you found out it can also be a bit tricky to lay out well and becomes transparent if you have to do much correction. It also take a very long time to fully cure. |
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Reconsidering black. I've seen a lot of boring EF sedans in black. Considering something like this or slightly darker Attached File hope to get the dash out today and some parts stored away Attached File |
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Didn't notice this thread previously, I'm following now. I had an 86 Civic and this build is pretty cool to see. I currently have a 2008 Si with 207K on the stock K20, and it sees 8K redline daily. At some point I'll probably build a K24 bottom end and rebuild the K20 head. Apparently that's the popular thing to do now, K24 bottom gives you more low to mid torque and the K20 head gives you higher revs. A K series in that car would be a blast, it's about 600lbs/25% lighter than my car. IMO I'd go with a stock K series over building out a D series with upgrades. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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Originally Posted By HillaryClinton: Didn't notice this thread previously, I'm following now. I had an 86 Civic and this build is pretty cool to see. I currently have a 2008 Si with 207K on the stock K20, and it sees 8K redline daily. At some point I'll probably build a K24 bottom end and rebuild the K20 head. Apparently that's the popular thing to do now, K24 bottom gives you more low to mid torque and the K20 head gives you higher revs. A K series in that car would be a blast, it's about 600lbs/25% lighter than my car. IMO I'd go with a stock K series over building out a D series with upgrades. My kid's EG is a K24 from an Accord with TSX pistons and TSX cams/K20 head. It rips I may do a K20 in this because the hood will close. K24 is iffy. I may just keep the B20 and add a Vtec head. I am struggling with this decision. I LOVE the cable trans with the Hybrid racing shifter. If you haven't swapped in HR or Acuity shifter you should. The shifting went from Butterchurn to M1 Garand in precision The B20 shifter is like beating off to Hilary Clinton pictures |
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Originally Posted By ToledoXJ: What a fucking mess. Wiring is sketch asf. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/IMG_6883_jpeg-3652250.JPG Did they use a conversion harness for obd0 to obd1 or 2? That’s what I did years ago on my swap. It basically plugged into the obd0 plugs with a short harness to obd1 plugs into the ecu then had the extra wires you needed to run off the obd1 plugs to go to the vtec solenoids, sensors etc. definitely not the cleanest solution, but was a lot less work than cutting the old obd0 plugs off |
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Originally Posted By ENGCPT: I loved the yellow thread. Im digging this one too. |
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flgfish: "Low mileage cars piss me off. You saving your girlfriend for the next guy? Drive the car and enjoy it. A 911 is damn near bulletproof."
flgfish: "Low mileage cars piss me off. You saving your girlfriend for the next guy? Drive the car and enjoy it. A 911 is damn near bulletproof."
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Not much happening. I coach a robotics team and it's eating up all my time. Also I am too broke to buy parts as of late and today I found out my wife was dropped from our car insurance due to two accidents this year. This may end my car hobby. Dunno yet. That said I did do a few things today. Sat at wafflehouse and car-watched traffic going past hoping for some inspiration on a color choice. Still hovering on black but may change it up. I have months of cold temps and bodywork before I need to worry about it. I like this Aberdeen Green kinda Attached File Slept all day and finally got up and pulled the headliner. Attached File After that I rearranged some shit in the garage and made more room for the EG and any other repairs I need to do to the fleet Attached File So much of the wiring in the car looks like this. No idea how the PO didn't burn to death. Attached File I may do a standalone and add a Haltech dash just avoid the hackjob on the cluster. |
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Originally Posted By ToledoXJ: I like this Aberdeen Green kinda I think that's an awesome color that would look great. With those same wheels, too. You know, I would've never thought the EF sedan was a cool car until this thread. Now I kinda want one. I hope you're able to finish it. |
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Originally Posted By ToledoXJ: Probably won't sell anything until I'm all done. I may just clean up his wires and reinstall to try to save a buck. Thats probably what I would do. Just clean up the wiring and run it. Did they wire up the electronic vss to run the ek cluster? |
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Originally Posted By Ivan1: Thats probably what I would do. Just clean up the wiring and run it. Did they wire up the electronic vss to run the ek cluster? |
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Been dragging my feet on BF deals but I decided to grab a 20% off, Momo Montecarlo wheel as I knew I would eventually buy it anyway. 1st car part for the car and I fucked up. Bought the yellow horn button wheel thinking I'd get a black button eventually and later remembered the stitching is yellow. Wanted black which was sold out. Oh well. The yellow is the default momo color anyway Need a couple other things I may grab before the week is done. Don't really have the scratch but oh well |
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made a couple decisions today. BF got me and i bought a hydro clutch conversion from Hush performance for a Bseries trans, I also bought the hybrid racing shifter setup for b series. it has great reviews but it was spendy. BF pushed me over the edge to commit to the B 20. My buddy found 3 vtec heads on FBMP in 5 minutes so that also helped Attached File Attached File I also decided on a color. Attached File that said i am still on the fence about the build. it will be a street car but i am considering a track-like build. light gutted and race oriented. or full interior but swapped to black. I have a crazy idea i may do if i gut it oh yeah, i found another build i like but can't easily emulate. i may try though Attached File |
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Good choice. I'm really considering a b 20 VTEC in the crx too. It's pretty reliable 200hp which is all the ef needs . I wonder if the cable hydro converter works between d and b series trans since I already have one for my d series since it has a 95ex trans. Since you'll already have a head off the car might as well throw a new cam in there too lol. B18 turbo is another great option. Rock solid reliable 250hp on stock internals. We are at same point on the track decision. Do I want interior panels? Lol. Or gut the thing and order plexiglass windows and shave a couple hundred pounds. It's appealing on these older models because shaving 200 pounds off an ef is noticably faster compared to shaving 200 pounds on a modern two ton vehicle. |
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Also when you get to motor building whether b or d series spend the money on a digidizzy distributor. It's the best thing ever made for the old Honda motors. I put one on my crv when I rebuilt the motor and it's a godsend. Can set OEM timing without a timing light from tdc in like 15 seconds and it works flawlessly up to 12k rpm. Guy that makes them is local to me and it solves so many b and d series gremlins that come from distributors. Plug and play installs in ten minutes . https://digidizzy.com/ |
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Originally Posted By victorgonzales: Also when you get to motor building whether b or d series spend the money on a digidizzy distributor. It's the best thing ever made for the old Honda motors. I put one on my crv when I rebuilt the motor and it's a godsend. Can set OEM timing without a timing light from tdc in like 15 seconds and it works flawlessly up to 12k rpm. Guy that makes them is local to me and it solves so many b and d series gremlins that come from distributors. Plug and play installs in ten minutes . https://digidizzy.com/ found som 15x9 wheels I know will be a mistake but i may grab them and try to make them work. It will look like that red car above probably. Pics if I buy them |
| My son is working on a 92 Celica I showed him this thread and he really enjoyed it. Thanks for keeping one of these old beasts on the road. |
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Originally Posted By Elijah1: My son is working on a 92 Celica I showed him this thread and he really enjoyed it. Thanks for keeping one of these old beasts on the road. Have him check out my last thread. It actually "ended" EG hatch |
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These don't fit. Yet. I love them. ![]() ![]() ![]() Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ToledoXJ: made a couple decisions today. BF got me and i bought a hydro clutch conversion from Hush performance for a Bseries trans, I also bought the hybrid racing shifter setup for b series. it has great reviews but it was spendy. BF pushed me over the edge to commit to the B 20. My buddy found 3 vtec heads on FBMP in 5 minutes so that also helped https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/Screen_Shot_2025-11-28_at_8_59_16_PM_png-3666949.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/Screen_Shot_2025-11-28_at_8_57_07_PM_png-3666947.JPG I also decided on a color. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/maxresdefault_jpg-3666946.JPG that said i am still on the fence about the build. it will be a street car but i am considering a track-like build. light gutted and race oriented. or full interior but swapped to black. I have a crazy idea i may do if i gut it oh yeah, i found another build i like but can't easily emulate. i may try though https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285969/556102538_25024994913763832_735589320150-3666957.JPG Can you tell me the paint code of that purple? TIAI |
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Awesome, OP. Two of my favorite cars were 1991 Si EF1 hatches. One was wrecked, the other stolen. The first one had a D16A ZC DOHC engine swap. Custom dark purple with metallic flakes. Very fun. Also had a 91 CRX Si that was showroom condition when purchased in 2004. Then I went ahead and murdered it with bondo and a body kit. Thanks Fast and Furious |









