Posted: 9/4/2026 4:06:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bmarshall1][Edited]
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OK, getting ready to try some suppressors. ETA: using a Prusa MK4s, no enclosure, .6 hardened nozzle I bought a spool of Polymaker Fibron (FU Polymaker for your shitty cardboard spools!). I also bought a Polymaker single spool dryer that I thought was good for 80c but is only good to 44c. 1) From all the talk here: do I need 100c, or is 70c good enough if I run it for an extended time, but will that cause other issues 2) Is there a reasonably priced (under $150) that is good for PA6/100c temps? I see the West3D Filament Toaster for $169 and the only other is the Sunlu Filadryer for $260, I'm leaning toward the West3d but delivery times are gonna be a bit long. I suppose I'll need something that goes high enough to anneal. Before someone says 'just buy a toaster over and get a Rasberry Pi or Andrulio and make it work, I don't even know what all that means, I'm not much of a programmer. 3) I lost a couple simple PLA prints as they didn't stick to the bed, so I used some purple Elmers Glue Stick and that worked but came out of the tube kinda gloppy, and made the bottom of my print uneven, is there a better, maybe wipe on glue, I don't really want to be spraying hairspray around. |
Easily irritated engineer of odd things
Joined:
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MN, USA
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Originally Posted By Blob: I wouldn't even attempt this without an enclosure that can reach at least 55, so fix that first. |
Once you realize that all power comes from the credible threat of the use of deadly force, and the gov't hates you, most things become easy to understand..
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Originally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Yeah, gotta go here. This is heated enclosure territory OP, until you get there, print them out of PLA Plus. I'm not kidding. They won't take as much heat, so you have to keep ROF lower. But it works quite well. If anything, the layer-adhesion of PLA/PLA Plus is far higher than any of the engineering filaments, so the main failure mechanism for 3d-printed cans is greatly reduced. You just won't get as many lifetime rounds out of them. But with stamps being free (if you even need a stamp), you can print a whole bag full of them for chump-change. Use a design with K-baffles to support the tips of the cones and prevent deformation. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7GDB9GQ - that will print you very serviceable cans for about $1 each. Print them hot and slow, you're still talking at least 1 or 2 printed per day, for a buck a pop. If you already have a printer, that's a hard deal to beat. Then when you have a printer more suited to engineering filaments, you can play around with those. |
| For what it's worth I printed my first can (FTN5 Rimfire) in a P2S with very little 3D experience. Yes, it's enclosed but does not have a heated chamber. I dried the Sunlu PA6CF for 24 hours at 85° in a Bambu AMS HT ($139), printed it slow at 30 mm/s and it turned out great. That was my first foray into CF filaments and I was lucky the way it turned out. Printing CF is a long learning curve but it's the only way to print a can with any long-term usefullness. |