Posted: 11/14/2025 8:28:09 PM EDT
A few years back I printed a nice (on screen) looking stock and 10/22 receiver. Both printed in PLA+. Used Dollar Tree super glue to hold it all together. Big shocker, at the range it fell apart after being a jam-o-matic.  Now that I have a P1S I'd like to try something better. I'm not opposed to installing the upgraded nozzle/hot end so I can use CF or ABS (not sure about ABS). I'll check Odysee but what has worked well for you for both stl's and filament? Thanks!! 
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let me try a bit in the morning to find something. all of the 10/22 receivers are ultimately based on Ivans which has small dimensional and locational errors, many that have followed have introduced even larger dimensional errors as well as fanciful features that may or may not benefit. All of them seem to expect a certain amount of plasticky flexibility to overcome those challenges. overall tho the design is challenging - there is no "good" print orientation that creates strength for the barrel hole, the threading for the mounting v block and the pin holes at the same time. Either it cracks at the barrel mounting bolt threads or at one of the pin holes.. needs a lot of layer adhesion and flexibility at the same time. on materials.. actually I've had better success with ABS and CF ABS than other materials due to its impact resistance but only by modifying the design to accommodate. others may have some good suggestions also on materials. |
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I like the LX-22 I think from AWCY. I like the rail solution better than Ivans. For the stock I believe I did mine off the AWCY one too, but someone did a remix to make the forend longer. I haven't assembled the stock yet, but will try to soon. I'm gonna use it as a guineapig for a spray paint camo job. There are some other paid download stock options on Cults 3D. |
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They all are i think. If you dont want it to break u have 3 options. 1 use a stronger material. 2 print in better orientations ( i did an experiment for example with a 3 piece 10/22 - left, right and front which bolted together and let all the imoprtant holes be aligned to the z axis. Or 3 make it from metal. |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: They all are i think. If you dont want it to break u have 3 options. 1 use a stronger material. 2 print in better orientations ( i did an experiment for example with a 3 piece 10/22 - left, right and front which bolted together and let all the imoprtant holes be aligned to the z axis. Or 3 make it from metal. As of now I have PLA+ or PETG. However I do have the hardened nozzle/hitend so I think I can do ABS or maybe CF. Thoughts? I'm not understanding the orientation explanation. What bolts and what important holes? Thanks |
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Attached File here's a typical print in PLA for a 10/22. this was printed rails down and as you can see the layers create weak points at the pin holes. this one broke primarily at the rear buffer pin hole that receives the recoil, but also at the front takedown pin hole as well. i had preemptively glued the side of the front section where the bolts hold the barrel on as those tend to crack a LOT. Attached File now compare to this receiver.. it is printed in 3 pieces and bolted back together. but that allows the print orientation to be correct for each pin hole giving maximum strength and eliminating the weak layer lines at the pin holes. It also uses a metal part to reinforce the barrel insert Attached File alternately here is a 10/22 galileo printed in PA6-CF, which is really thick / chunky and has survived due to its ability to deform without breaking and excessive chonkiness. but i dont know that it is a great solution in general. Attached File Every standard receiver i've printed in PLA, ABS, ASA has broken generally at the same points. theyre just weak areas. The 3 part receiver did not break despite heavy use, but was eventually taken out of service similarly the galileo PA6-CF didnt break but was taken out of service. |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000006088_jpg-3679004.JPG here's a typical print in PLA for a 10/22. this was printed rails down and as you can see the layers create weak points at the pin holes. this one broke primarily at the rear buffer pin hole that receives the recoil, but also at the front takedown pin hole as well. i had preemptively glued the side of the front section where the bolts hold the barrel on as those tend to crack a LOT. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/20251206_170530_jpg-3679007.JPG now compare to this receiver.. it is printed in 3 pieces and bolted back together. but that allows the print orientation to be correct for each pin hole giving maximum strength and eliminating the weak layer lines at the pin holes. It also uses a metal part to reinforce the barrel insert https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000006084_jpg-3679012.JPG alternately here is a 10/22 galileo printed in PA6-CF, which is really thick / chunky and has survived due to its ability to deform without breaking and excessive chonkiness. but i dont know that it is a great solution in general. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/1000006092_jpg-3679010.JPG Every standard receiver i've printed in PLA, ABS, ASA has broken generally at the same points. theyre just weak areas. The 3 part receiver did not break despite heavy use, but was eventually taken out of service similarly the galileo PA6-CF didnt break but was taken out of service. Thanks for sharing. Mine split in the same place. The metal pieces...are you molded right into the print?...so you maybe pause the print and set them in place or...? Thanks |
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nah, the metal piece is inserted and epoxied after. That particular design is for the bento box, but then i adapted it for 3 piece print. the native print looks a little like this.. then has the bronze bearing pressed in after. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: nah, the metal piece is inserted and epoxied after. That particular design is for the bento box, but then i adapted it for 3 piece print. the native print looks a little like this.. then has the bronze bearing pressed in after. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/56039/3_part_frame_png-3679216.JPG Any chance all the metal parts are listed in a readme and an STL somewhere? The bento boxes look interesting and I've been wanting to try one. Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: Any chance all the metal parts are listed in a readme and an STL somewhere? The bento boxes look interesting and I've been wanting to try one. Thanks Yes, Bento box instructions have all the mcmaster part numbers. unlike amazon links they tend to be reliable/durable over time. |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: Yes, Bento box instructions have all the mcmaster part numbers. unlike amazon links they tend to be reliable/durable over time. Is the stl your using plastigoon's over on odysee? If yours is stronger and holding up better did you post it anywhere? Thanks! |
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bento box should be on odysee.. links arent allowed here, so you'll need to do the searching unfortunately. I havent posted my design - i both cant figure out how to post on odysee, but also as noted i decommed both final variants. in my case I decided to ditch polymer in favor of milling my own aluminum 10/22's and then replaced out all the receivers for guns i have with aluminum. |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: bento box should be on odysee.. links arent allowed here, so you'll need to do the searching unfortunately. I havent posted my design - i both cant figure out how to post on odysee, but also as noted i decommed both final variants. in my case I decided to ditch polymer in favor of milling my own aluminum 10/22's and then replaced out all the receivers for guns i have with aluminum. Long term, I'm just curious if 3D printed 10/22 lowers are inherently flawed. That's been the case for most of my Glock frames. I cant remember if I tried printing a Glock with my P1S. But the Hoffman AR15 and AR10 lowers have held up VERY well. If the 10/22 receiver structurally can't handle being made from 3D printed polymer options, I'll just move on to something else. |
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Originally Posted By BuschKing: I’ve made 3 or of the AWCY receivers and they’ve all ran 10-11 mags worth and ran great. Only issue I’ve had was on one of them the action screw pocket didn’t hold the screw. I see AWCY's page but what's the name of the 10/22 receiver file? Not seeing it by itself. Thanks! EDIT: Nevermind...found it. LX-22. However, that's the one by "ProLaff's" and is currently in 2 pieces in my garbage can since that is the model that split upon testing it at the range. Now if using a P1S instead of an Ender 3 Pro is going to mean it'll be of significantly better quality, cool, I can spend the buck or two of PLA+ and print it. If not, I don't see the point in trying it again. I'll also add that I never bought/slid in the nuts with them up front. Not sure if that had anything to do with it splitting near the ejection port. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: .. EDIT: Nevermind...found it. LX-22. However, that's the one by "ProLaff's" and is currently in 2 pieces in my garbage can since that is the model that split upon testing it at the range. Now if using a P1S instead of an Ender 3 Pro is going to mean it'll be of significantly better quality, cool, I can spend the buck or two of PLA+ and print it. If not, I don't see the point in trying it again. I'll also add that I never bought/slid in the nuts with them up front. Not sure if that had anything to do with it splitting near the ejection port. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/125109/1000009462_jpg-3680087.JPG given your experience you may want to try galileo - there's a v2 that was released a few months back.. by removing the need to fit a standard stock pattern this allows the frame to be thickened (which galileo has ) which helps. also if you can hit temps enough for PA6-CF - not a material i always recommend, but in the case of the 10/22 a little squishy can help. |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: given your experience you may want to try galileo - there's a v2 that was released a few months back.. by removing the need to fit a standard stock pattern this allows the frame to be thickened (which galileo has ) which helps. also if you can hit temps enough for PA6-CF - not a material i always recommend, but in the case of the 10/22 a little squishy can help. That's really helpful!! So you are referring to: AWCY? Presents: The Galileo R2 by DB Firearms Correct? I see that other variations use an AR trigger group but the R2 uses the standard 10/22 parts in their entirety I believe. And so long as the folding stock, forend, etc. stl's are all provides in the set of files I'll give this one a try. I've never printed in CF but I do have the hardened parts to do it. Any tips on what changes need to be made when slicing so that everything prints optimally? I'll check Amazon to grab a spool of PA6-CF. Thanks again!!
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: That's really helpful!! So you are referring to: AWCY? Presents: The Galileo R2 by DB Firearms Correct? I see that other variations use an AR trigger group but the R2 uses the standard 10/22 parts in their entirety I believe. And so long as the folding stock, forend, etc. stl's are all provides in the set of files I'll give this one a try. I've never printed in CF but I do have the hardened parts to do it. Any tips on what changes need to be made when slicing so that everything prints optimally? I'll check Amazon to grab a spool of PA6-CF. Thanks again!! Yes that sounds right - i've not used the AR parts group version - that would save some cost perhaps. As far as Pa6-cf, you need : hardened nozzle, be able to hit temps of 280+ c (that means all metal hot end, and firmware support for high temps), filament has to have a straight path to the head (no bends or it will snap), and for best results it will want to be enclosed. if that doesnt sound like your machine i'd suggest to try with PLA+ or ABS given the better design of galileo... |
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Originally Posted By bionicmonkey: Yes that sounds right - i've not used the AR parts group version - that would save some cost perhaps. As far as Pa6-cf, you need : hardened nozzle, be able to hit temps of 280+ c (that means all metal hot end, and firmware support for high temps), filament has to have a straight path to the head (no bends or it will snap), and for best results it will want to be enclosed. if that doesnt sound like your machine i'd suggest to try with PLA+ or ABS given the better design of galileo... I'll address point by point... I already have the 10/22 parts (including the trigger group). So using what I already have would be optimal. I do have a hardened nozzle (stainless). So I'm guessing it can handle 280C+. Not sure what you mean by the filament having a straight path. My printer is the P1S so it is enclosed. There is some curves to the bowden tube. I already have eSun PLA+ loaded in the AMS so that would be easy. But if grabbing a spool of PA6-CF would make it exponentially stronger, I'll do that. However, as I've described my setup...would I be good to go (so long as I swap out the hardened nozzle)....or do I need to do something special with the bowden tube? Also, the firmware I'm using is Bambu Studio. Haven't printed anything from Odysee yet but typically I just download a file and it automatically opens up in Bambu Studio. Do I need to download something different for PA6-CF and/or Odysee files? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: I see AWCY's page but what's the name of the 10/22 receiver file? Not seeing it by itself. Thanks! EDIT: Nevermind...found it. LX-22. However, that's the one by "ProLaff's" and is currently in 2 pieces in my garbage can since that is the model that split upon testing it at the range. Now if using a P1S instead of an Ender 3 Pro is going to mean it'll be of significantly better quality, cool, I can spend the buck or two of PLA+ and print it. If not, I don't see the point in trying it again. I'll also add that I never bought/slid in the nuts with them up front. Not sure if that had anything to do with it splitting near the ejection port. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/125109/1000009462_jpg-3680087.JPG I've had a ruger 10/22 receiver Crack in that same spot. |
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yes, looking at the bambu p1s specs online it looks doable. all metal hotend : check capable of 300c : check direct drive : check enclosed : check 0.4 mm Stainless Steel nozzle Included : check... unless you put a brass nozzle in? any hardened steel will do, to keep that CF from eroding the hole. only thing you may want to check is the path. basically PLA can make some tight bends before it gets to the head, but CF filaments will snap if bent sharply, so they want a direct path with long sweeping bends if any. personally I run my filament box above the printer so it feeds off the spool directly down and to the head, not every setup can be like that, but you'll know soon enough also PA6CF is super hygroscopic so that will need to stay in a dry box. once printed PA6CF is super stiff and seems like a wonder material. you'll want to remove supports then consider annealing per the manuf. specs or not based on your needs. over a week it will absorb moisture and get a lot more flexible. i'd recommend doing this (or speeding it but putting the print in a moist environment for a couple of days) before reaming / drilling or assembling. |
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So here's the curvature of my tube from the AMS. Thoughts for PA6-CF? Thanks Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: So here's the curvature of my tube from the AMS. Thoughts for PA6-CF? Thanks https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/125109/1000009639_jpg-3688512.JPG Not a problem at all. My core ones have a tighter bend at the extruder and I don't have problems. You won't want to print directly from the AMS though unless the print time is super short, like maybe an hour or two max. You will want to feed directly from the dryer because the nylon will absorb moisture rapidly and print quality will degrade quickly. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Not a problem at all. My core ones have a tighter bend at the extruder and I don't have problems. You won't want to print directly from the AMS though unless the print time is super short, like maybe an hour or two max. You will want to feed directly from the dryer because the nylon will absorb moisture rapidly and print quality will degrade quickly. I am just discovering that my Sunlu dryer has a hole to feed through. Giggety. Now I'm curious 1) What settings do I need to change so that my P1S will play nice feeding from the dryer. and 2) Where should I position the dryer so it works well? Thanks |
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Originally Posted By Emt1581: I am just discovering that my Sunlu dryer has a hole to feed through. Giggety. Now I'm curious 1) What settings do I need to change so that my P1S will play nice feeding from the dryer. and 2) Where should I position the dryer so it works well? Thanks Just coming back to this.... Anyone? Thanks! |
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I tried to print PA6-CF the other day with mixed results. Where the AMS feeds into the enclosure is where I feed into. Trying to get it to feed along the pathway was very hard as it kept getting stuck, also trying to set the filament in the studio app was a chore, this is because I am still learning. I was not aware of how rough the texture of the PA6-CF is! |
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Originally Posted By DANGERRUSS: I tried to print PA6-CF the other day with mixed results. Where the AMS feeds into the enclosure is where I feed into. Trying to get it to feed along the pathway was very hard as it kept getting stuck, also trying to set the filament in the studio app was a chore, this is because I am still learning. I was not aware of how rough the texture of the PA6-CF is! This is what I was hoping to get some help with because I have no clue how to alter the Bambu studio to print with this filament. As for feeding, I plan to just let it feed straight from the dryer through the little pinhole. |