[ARCHIVED THREAD] - KE Arms KP-15 (Page 4 of 5)
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Quoted: KE Arms has a list of triggers they've found compatible, and if you over Dremel, there's JB Weld. If you're afraid of Dremeling plastic, I would suggest getting your husband to assemble your rifle.  http://www.kearms.com/KP-15-polymer-receiver.aspx What if I don't have a dremel yet? 
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Quoted: What if I don't have a dremel yet? I use FW_wife's, but you can probably order one here: https://us.dremel.com/en_US/ |
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Quoted: Doesn't the website say don't even think about a drop in trigger? CMC triggers are great and I have an extra one but it doesn't look like I could put one in. Maybe with a little help from my friend Mr Dremel but who wants to mess with that and take the chance on screwing everything up? @pcb66 I think as long as you modify the trigger "chassis" and not the plastic lower you will be golden. Handled one today, it won't take much modification... |
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Some things that make this not worth it for me: 1) NON captive takedown pins... a big step back 2) you can’t just use any safety lever without expecting it to go in permanently. Unless you use their specific ones. The detent loads from the top (no pistol grip) 3) non adjustable pistol grip angle 4) (obvs) non adjustable stock Yes it is lighter. But weight in that part of the gun doesn’t have much an impact versus weight out front ... you can get 90% of the way into tbis WWSD concept by taking your own lower, swapping the buffer system, pencil 16” bbl, lightweight CF or AL free float tube, micro dot optic. |
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Quoted: Some things that make this not worth it for me: 1) NON captive takedown pins... a big step back 2) you can’t just use any safety lever without expecting it to go in permanently. Unless you use their specific ones. The detent loads from the top (no pistol grip) 3) non adjustable pistol grip angle 4) (obvs) non adjustable stock Yes it is lighter. But weight in that part of the gun doesn’t have much an impact versus weight out front ... you can get 90% of the way into tbis WWSD concept by taking your own lower, swapping the buffer system, pencil 16” bbl, lightweight CF or AL free float tube, micro dot optic. 1 - Btwn Cav Arms, Sabre, GWACS, and now KE Arms, I've had some 50 or so one-piece plastic lowers, and I've not lost any take down pins yet. If you really want to, you can run a plastic bolt through the front lug (and the rear if you like) and bolt it down. Lighter, too. 2 - You just notch it w/ a Dremel. Crank to 45 degrees, pop out. Only one that won't work with is the Elftman cross-bolt. You can also drill the safety detent channel out, and then run a grub screw up the same way the Vism thumbhole stock does - then you have adjustable tension on the safety itself. |
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Quoted: KE Arms has a list of triggers they've found compatible, and if you over Dremel, there's JB Weld. If you're afraid of Dremeling plastic, I would suggest getting your husband to assemble your rifle. http://www.kearms.com/KP-15-polymer-receiver.aspx You must of missed the part where I said I had extra CMC and MBT triggers. If I have to buy a KE trigger or any one that I don't have then that increases the cost of the project. If I have to afro rig a lower to get an enhanced trigger to fit then it makes an already marginal purchase to be even less appealing. For $199 I would buy a complete lower just for shits and giggles. If the stock trigger was decent or I could put in an extra I already had then it would be worthwhile. However, once you add in the cost of a new trigger then forget it. I started this thread to see if other were pleased with it and some are and some aren't. To me having to screw around with the trigger or having to buy a new one makes it a deal breaker. Enjoy yours. I'll pass on it. |
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Quoted: You must of missed the part where I said I had extra CMC and MBT triggers. If I have to buy a KE trigger or any one that I don't have then that increases the cost of the project. If I have to afro rig a lower to get an enhanced trigger to fit then it makes an already marginal purchase to be even less appealing. For $199 I would buy a complete lower just for shits and giggles. If the stock trigger was decent or I could put in an extra I already had then it would be worthwhile. However, once you add in the cost of a new trigger then forget it. I started this thread to see if other were pleased with it and some are and some aren't. To me having to screw around with the trigger or having to buy a new one makes it a deal breaker. Enjoy yours. I'll pass on it. I've got a LaRue trigger in the boy's rifle, a Sabre CA Mk 2. When my FDE blems get it, I'll move that over to the new lower for him. I don't understand your reluctance to install a MBT in the KP-15. It's not a chassis trigger - it'll fit & work fine. CMC you'd have to Dremel or file the FCS pocket b/c the chassis is too large to fit the KP-15 as it comes out of the mold. |
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Quoted: Let me try: 1) It's available, so all the hoi polloi willl buy them - ergo, it's not exclusive. 2) It's available in the two most popular colors, so no need to drop more coin on Ceracoating - even less exclusive. 3) It's different. 4) It's polymer, so low-information ARFCOMers automatically hate it, w/o realizing it's specifically engineered to overcome the prior common shortfalls of previous polymer lowers. 5) It doesn't have an A5 buffer system that 8.7% of the ARFCOM members of the Vltor fan club use. 6) It doesn't take all 87 AR chassis triggers w/o a little file or Dremel work. 7) It's not as rigid as a welded steel Flat Spot lower with welded 1" pipe for a rifle buffer tube that less than .087% of ARFCOM has ever even attempted building. 8) It's almost 20X times more expensive than the incredibly cheap $5 Sabre rollmarked Cav Arms Mk 2 lowers we got out of Trinity Ordnance 4 years ago, so never mind the KP-15 comes w/ an actual warranty, is better engineered, and has a much better pistol grip. 9) It won't take M3 Grease Gun mags like the Cav Arms Mk 2. 10) Sinistral Rifleman toyed with our emotions on April Fool's Day and teased us w/ an 80% lower, and we're still mad. 11) Sinistral Rifleman knows Karl Kasarda, so even though Karl gets a royalty only from Brownell's on WWSD 2020 complete rifles & nothing from KE Arms, any purchase of a KP-15 directly contributes to the rise of Satanism. 12) I'm still butthurt that the owner of Cav Arms didn't go down w/ his ship when the BATFE screwed them, so even though the KP-15 is a clean sheet design and has nothing to do w/ Cav Arms, Sabre, Armalite, or GWACS, I'm going to turn my nose up at it. Does that cover it? You forgot "i didn't think of it"... |
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Brownells finally got their retro style carry handle 4x scope back in stock so I ordered one for my KP15. Neither of my bore sighters work with it since it is so high above the bore so I guess I will have to start out close to the target at the 25 yard range, fire a few shots, adjust it, step back a few yards and repeat as I have done with other ARs. Attached File |
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Quoted: Brownells finally got their retro style carry handle 4x scope back in stock so I ordered one for my KP15. Neither of my bore sighters work with it since it is so high above the bore so I guess I will have to start out close to the target at the 25 yard range, fire a few shots, adjust it, step back a few yards and repeat as I have done with other ARs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/116588/KP15-041121E_jpg-1901273.JPG No need to use a bore sight, just pull the BCG and use the Dallas method. |
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Quoted: I've got a LaRue trigger in the boy's rifle, a Sabre CA Mk 2. When my FDE blems get it, I'll move that over to the new lower for him. I don't understand your reluctance to install a MBT in the KP-15. It's not a chassis trigger - it'll fit & work fine. CMC you'd have to Dremel or file the FCS pocket b/c the chassis is too large to fit the KP-15 as it comes out of the mold. My understanding is that the MBT won't fit. It is not on their list. Am I missing something? |
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Quoted: My understanding is that the MBT won't fit. It is not on their list. Am I missing something? I can't speak for everyone, but... when I replaced the milspec trigger in my complete milspec KP15 with my LaRue MBT-2S, the hammer would not release. I believe that it was a tolerance issue with the safety not allowing enough travel of the trigger... but I didn't spend too much time to sort it out so that's just my initial hypothesis. I did not try any other selectors. With the selector removed, the hammer would release. I just replaced it with a PSA EPT trigger which has become my preferred trigger these days anyway. I know some folks have said the only issue with the MBT is when using the KE Arms ambi selector, but my selector was just the standard KE ramp-modified milspec. |
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Quoted: My understanding is that the MBT won't fit. It is not on their list. Am I missing something? Their list is ONLY of chassis triggers that fit or not. The MBT is not a chassis trigger, so it won't be on either list. It should fit fine. Will try shortly, going to pick up my FDE blems shortly. |
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It had great potential, but am not a fan of the KE Arms Kp-15 polymer receiver. They could have made it so it took an A5 buffer system, but they kept it at carbine. If I am stuck with an A1 fixed length stock, I want to at least be able to use a rifle recoil system. They said A1 length wasn't long enough to use a rifle buffer and keep the integrity of the lower, I can understand that, but they at least could have made it take the A5 system. Lower is flared, but the magwell is actually very tight. Much tighter than any of my Cav Arms or GWACs lowers without the flare. Major design flaw there. Not a fan of the on top sling loop, prefer it on the bottom. This may be subjective, but the plastic "feels" a lot less solid than the polymer in the Cav Arms and GWACs which feel a lot sturdier. Different polymer formula? I know the original glass impregnated nylon material was bullet proof at that thickness when properly formulated. Maybe the new polymer formula is just as strong, but it doesn't feel it. Anyway, these issues can all be corrected if they so choose. It has a lot of potential, but until the issues are addressed, I see no need to get one. |
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Quoted: It had great potential, but am not a fan of the KE Arms Kp-15 polymer receiver. They could have made it so it took an A5 buffer system, but they kept it at carbine. If I am stuck with an A1 fixed length stock, I want to at least be able to use a rifle recoil system. They said A1 length wasn't long enough to use a rifle buffer and keep the integrity of the lower, I can understand that, but they at least could have made it take the A5 system. Lower is flared, but the magwell is actually very tight. Much tighter than any of my Cav Arms or GWACs lowers without the flare. Major design flaw there. Not a fan of the on top sling loop, prefer it on the bottom. This may be subjective, but the plastic "feels" a lot less solid than the polymer in the Cav Arms and GWACs which feel a lot sturdier. Different polymer formula? I know the original glass impregnated nylon material was bullet proof at that thickness when properly formulated. Maybe the new polymer formula is just as strong, but it doesn't feel it. Anyway, these issues can all be corrected if they so choose. It has a lot of potential, but until the issues are addressed, I see no need to get one. Leaves more for the rest of us. I've had Cav Arms (Mk 1 & 2), Sabre, & GWACS lowers - the fit & finish of the KP-15 is far above any of those. The pair of FDE blems I just got are as solid as my black one. My pre-ban RamLine Tri-Mag drops free fine from the FDE - my Magpuls have dropped free fine from the black one. What magazines are you using? |
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Quoted: It had great potential, but am not a fan of the KE Arms Kp-15 polymer receiver. They could have made it so it took an A5 buffer system, but they kept it at carbine. If I am stuck with an A1 fixed length stock, I want to at least be able to use a rifle recoil system. They said A1 length wasn't long enough to use a rifle buffer and keep the integrity of the lower, I can understand that, but they at least could have made it take the A5 system. Lower is flared, but the magwell is actually very tight. Much tighter than any of my Cav Arms or GWACs lowers without the flare. Major design flaw there. Not a fan of the on top sling loop, prefer it on the bottom. This may be subjective, but the plastic "feels" a lot less solid than the polymer in the Cav Arms and GWACs which feel a lot sturdier. Different polymer formula? I know the original glass impregnated nylon material was bullet proof at that thickness when properly formulated. Maybe the new polymer formula is just as strong, but it doesn't feel it. Anyway, these issues can all be corrected if they so choose. It has a lot of potential, but until the issues are addressed, I see no need to get one. I love A5. However, making their lower take a propetariery buffer system would be absolutely stupid. Plastics are better. Magwell too tight? As in won't drop free? I'd contact KE if it's too tight with USGI or magpuls. |
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Quoted: It had great potential, but am not a fan of the KE Arms Kp-15 polymer receiver. They could have made it so it took an A5 buffer system, but they kept it at carbine. If I am stuck with an A1 fixed length stock, I want to at least be able to use a rifle recoil system. They said A1 length wasn't long enough to use a rifle buffer and keep the integrity of the lower, I can understand that, but they at least could have made it take the A5 system. Quoted: It had great potential, but am not a fan of the KE Arms Kp-15 polymer receiver. They could have made it so it took an A5 buffer system, but they kept it at carbine. If I am stuck with an A1 fixed length stock, I want to at least be able to use a rifle recoil system. They said A1 length wasn't long enough to use a rifle buffer and keep the integrity of the lower, I can understand that, but they at least could have made it take the A5 system. A5 buffers are proprietary and in short supply. Making it A5 with a spacer would mean people constantly losing the spacer and damaging their lowers by running them with over traveling carbine buffers and the bolt carrier hitting the lower. Lower is flared, but the magwell is actually very tight. Much tighter than any of my Cav Arms or GWACs lowers without the flare. Major design flaw there. Uhm, what? I've heard from far more people concerned it was too loose. If you have one that is too tight with Gen 3 PMAGs, Lancers, or USGI e-mail [email protected] for a return label for it to be inspected. Not a fan of the on top sling loop, prefer it on the bottom. You're the only one. Consumers have welcomed the MLOK slot and its placement to attach QD points. This may be subjective, but the plastic "feels" a lot less solid than the polymer in the Cav Arms and GWACs which feel a lot sturdier. Different polymer formula? I know the original glass impregnated nylon material was bullet proof at that thickness when properly formulated. Maybe the new polymer formula is just as strong, but it doesn't feel it. Cav Arms made receivers from left over and recycled plastic. Material specs weren't consistent. The parts weren't designed for vibration welding; that was a retro fit that mostly worked. The KP-15 is using a consistent specced 30% long glass filled nylon material that is stronger than the materials used by Cav Arms. The welds are stronger. Using recycled material like CAV did is inherently weaker because the glass fibers get chopped up in the recycling process. Anyway, these issues can all be corrected if they so choose. It has a lot of potential, but until the issues are addressed, I see no need to get one. None of these things you cited are issues, they're your personal preference for a dated flawed design without understanding of the plastics manufacturing process. We've produced and sold more receivers in 5 months than Cav Arms and GWACS did combined over the course of 18 years. The KP-15 is simply the best monolithic polymer receiver that has ever existed. |
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Quoted: A5 buffers are proprietary and in short supply. Making it A5 with a spacer would mean people constantly losing the spacer and damaging their lowers by running them with over traveling carbine buffers and the bolt carrier hitting the lower. Uhm, what? I've heard from far more people concerned it was too loose. If you have one that is too tight with Gen 3 PMAGs, Lancers, or USGI e-mail [email protected] for a return label for it to be inspected. You're the only one. Consumers have welcomed the MLOK slot and its placement to attach QD points. Cav Arms made receivers from left over and recycled plastic. Material specs weren't consistent. The parts weren't designed for vibration welding; that was a retro fit that mostly worked. The KP-15 is using a consistent specced 30% long glass filled nylon material that is stronger than the materials used by Cav Arms. The welds are stronger. Using recycled material like CAV did is inherently weaker because the glass fibers get chopped up in the recycling process. None of these things you cited are issues, they're your personal preference for a dated flawed design without understanding of the plastics manufacturing process. We've produced and sold more receivers in 5 months than Cav Arms and GWACS did combined over the course of 18 years. The KP-15 is simply the best monolithic polymer receiver that has ever existed. Now now, we don't do facts here. Kindly translate this to the proper dialect of reeeeelish. |
I'm very happy with my example......6.15# as shown.  Attached File The only things I noticed was that on the QD insert I used I had to put a washer under it to raise it just a tad because not all of my QDs sling swivels would fit.....The MagPul ones in particular. GTG now......Also the grip could use a palm-swell as it's a bit on the thin side but I like the shape. The trigger is pretty OEM AR-ish but not a show stopper. I don't plan on messing with it. All and all a very nice product. |
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Quoted: Any pictures of the ‘interior’ of the KP-15? Is there room for a DIAS? Attached File |
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The website lists the KE DMR trigger as being compatible with the KP-15 lower using the correct length trigger pins but I cannot figure out how to either slide the cassette under the safety bar or get the safety out. Are there any instructions for installing this? I've been googling but I haven't found anyone else doing this yet. |
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Quoted: The website lists the KE DMR trigger as being compatible with the KP-15 lower using the correct length trigger pins but I cannot figure out how to either slide the cassette under the safety bar or get the safety out. Are there any instructions for installing this? I've been googling but I haven't found anyone else doing this yet. You've looked at their videos on their website? |
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Quoted: The website lists the KE DMR trigger as being compatible with the KP-15 lower using the correct length trigger pins but I cannot figure out how to either slide the cassette under the safety bar or get the safety out. Are there any instructions for installing this? I've been googling but I haven't found anyone else doing this yet. What selector are you using? If you’re not using one of our modified ones you’re not getting it back out easily. The selector must be removed to install the trigger. Trigger group video |
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Quoted: I want one of these, but I have absolutely zero need for one and I’m trying to avoid building guns I don’t need. I bet a shorter stocked version would do well too. It's just another lower you can swap uppers on when you'd like something fixed stock & lighter weight. Don't think of it as a gun - think of it as a part you don't currently have. |
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Quoted: What selector are you using? If you’re not using one of our modified ones you’re not getting it back out easily. The selector must be removed to install the trigger. Trigger group video Quoted: Quoted: The website lists the KE DMR trigger as being compatible with the KP-15 lower using the correct length trigger pins but I cannot figure out how to either slide the cassette under the safety bar or get the safety out. Are there any instructions for installing this? I've been googling but I haven't found anyone else doing this yet. What selector are you using? If you’re not using one of our modified ones you’re not getting it back out easily. The selector must be removed to install the trigger. Trigger group video Right, but the video shows how to remove the 1st style safety with the detent. How do you remove the new style safety which is apparently what I have? I bought one of the mil-spec FCG complete polymer lowers. |
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Quoted: Right, but the video shows how to remove the 1st style safety with the detent. How do you remove the new style safety which is apparently what I have? I bought one of the mil-spec FCG complete polymer lowers. Im assuming you bought a milspec complete? Instruction page • Safety selector spring and /KP-15-MilSpec detent load from the top and then the selector is slid over them. Your receiver includes a KE Arms Optimized Mil-Spec Selector. This can be removed by placing it half way between safe and fire and pushing it out to the left.Disassembly of the fire control group should only be done by an experienced gunsmith or certified armorer. You may want to remove the fire control group first before the selector. It makes it easier to push through. |
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Quoted: Im assuming you bought a milspec complete? Instruction page • Safety selector spring and /KP-15-MilSpec detent load from the top and then the selector is slid over them. Your receiver includes a KE Arms Optimized Mil-Spec Selector. This can be removed by placing it half way between safe and fire and pushing it out to the left.Disassembly of the fire control group should only be done by an experienced gunsmith or certified armorer. You may want to remove the fire control group first before the selector. It makes it easier to push through. Thank you, I missed that detail previously. |
| I have a 2004 Cav Arms SEBR, a Cav Aid lower, and now a KE lower on the way. Looking forward to shooting it. I don’t recall having trouble removing standard safety selectors from the Cav Arms lowers, but it has been awhile. I ordered the KE lower with a KE LPK so I suspect this won’t be an issue. |
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Quoted: Im assuming you bought a milspec complete? Instruction page • Safety selector spring and /KP-15-MilSpec detent load from the top and then the selector is slid over them. Your receiver includes a KE Arms Optimized Mil-Spec Selector. This can be removed by placing it half way between safe and fire and pushing it out to the left.Disassembly of the fire control group should only be done by an experienced gunsmith or certified armorer. You may want to remove the fire control group first before the selector. It makes it easier to push through. Emphasize careful  I have a brand new one, safety was a bit loose so swapped twice to another detent and cracked the channel on the third go trying to fit one. Looks cool but mines a paperweight |
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Quoted: Two different vendors at the last fun show had them on their tables. Both wanted nearly $300 for them. I'll probably go for one at some point just because I think they are cool. Damn. Maybe that's w/ the fancy trigger? Saw some w/ standard triggers at the show yesterday for $229, I think it was. |
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Quoted: Damn. Maybe that's w/ the fancy trigger? Saw some w/ standard triggers at the show yesterday for $229, I think it was. That is what they are at my LGS.....Mine was tagged at $199.00 in April so they must have went up a bit since. Brownells is asking $299.00 for them with the DMR trigger. https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/lower-receivers/kp-15-complete-lower-receiver-with-dmr-trigger-prod139029.aspx |