[ARCHIVED THREAD] - 12x32 shed for office space. Need best insulation / heating & cooling ideas (Page 2 of 3)
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Quoted: Do I need specific tools to pressure test a mini split? Best to have a pro install? With solar 110 or 220? Shed Is here and I have analysis paralysis The good brands will require a contractor to purchase if you want any kind of warranty. Any brand will need to be pumped out before releasing the charge. You can install it yourself if you know what you're doing but you will need a contractor with an Hvac meter and a vacuum pump to test it and fire it up. |
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Fiberglass batting and a portable heat pump. Like this: Attached File |
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I can't help but notice the lack of mention of dense packed cellulose insulation as an option here. Not as good as foam but with a little education, certainly DIY friendly and a better option over rock wool. More eco friendly, better R value if done right, fewer installation pitfalls. I quit using batt insulation forever ago. Dense pack is a great compromise and Lowes will let you rent the machine for free if you buy enough bales. |
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Quoted: Do I need specific tools to pressure test a mini split? Best to have a pro install? With solar 110 or 220? Shed Is here and I have analysis paralysis No pro needed unless you buy a brand that requires it for warranty. Money no object go with a couple of the big names mentioned here. Budget friendly and diy go Pioneer. Look around and you will find many of the units at this price point are all the same. Made in china at the same factory. Pioneer is pre charged for a 25 foot line set. You will need to buy a vacuum pump and a hvac gauge ($150 total on Amazon) and a tubing cutter and flare tool for the lines. It’s not hard. Look up one of the million YouTube videos on installing pioneer mini splits. FYI. With the cost of install of a high end system you can replace the pioneer system twice or three times without hitting the same cost, let alone using parts. Don’t go Mr Cool. May seem decent but there is a big cost increase for basically the same thing because the lines are already vacuumed down. 9k or 12k 110 unit would work but if you can get a 220 unit as they pull off each leg and overall save you some electricity. If you don’t have 220 the 110 units are fine. Pioneer has 10% sales a lot and remember, a heat pump qualifies for a 30% tax rebate on purchase and most places have electric company rebates that can bring the cost down to next to nothing. I am looking at a dual 12k unit and my cost for the equipment will end up at 600 after rebate and tax rebate. As mentioned, get a couple cans of spray foam for behind the outlet boxes and the outlet holes as well as every place you drill through for wiring and all the gaps everywhere. The cans have pest repellent foam if you are concerned with that. Air tight make a huge difference. With no insulation in the floor I would look into possibly adding strapping an ]d an inch or two of foam bard for insulation then another subfloor as otherwise the floor is going to be freezing in the winter. Hopefully you have the headroom to add a couple inches as that and some rugs would help a lot. |
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well wife and I decided on mini portable ac and mini wood stove. all the mini splits local said they would not work well in our cold and estimates are $3k plus installed. Found Jotul mini stove my wife loves and going that route So much work still need to insulate and wire up. Ice storm put us behind |
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Just a heads up to go over size on the portable ac unit. We have an 8k in a room and it can’t keep up, it’s also damn loud and way less efficient than a window unit imo. Pioneer sells a 9k split for about 1k on sale. Federal tax rebate you get 300 back. Any local rebates and you may save more. Still need a couple hundred in tools / stuff but much quieter than a portable. |
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Ordered a GE profile over window ac like this photo Attached File Wanting a Jotul F 602 small wood stove that retails for around $1500 But quotes are over $5k installed  My wife thinks a pro has to install a wood stove and does not want to diy (she is afraid of leaking roof too) What about 90 degrees through wall? This is same stove from a random google search Attached File |
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Very, very interested in this and please give all the details with pics you can of what you install. I was about to say in the DIY forum there are a LOT of threads and advice about installing mini-splits. But you have made a decision, and I will watch for how it turns out! 
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Quoted: Ordered a GE profile over window ac like this photo https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/65995/9B4C4A89-F43F-4DA0-A4FC-2C908099255C_jpe-2747343.JPG Wanting a Jotul F 602 small wood stove that retails for around $1500 But quotes are over $5k installed My wife thinks a pro has to install a wood stove and does not want to diy (she is afraid of leaking roof too) What about 90 degrees through wall? This is same stove from a random google search https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/65995/17BE5BC2-7EEB-46CC-B610-55DAFA0FE1F5_jpe-2747347.JPG OP I would take the heat-proof backing all the way up that wall to the top of the penetration. Normally you won't need it, but I've seen a fire in a stove pipe and it was literally glowing whitish-red it was so hot. No, it shouldn't happen. But it did. In that case, I was very glad there was a brick wall behind that pipe. It's a "build for the worst possibility" thing in this instance, and doesn't cost much more. |
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Quoted: I can't help but notice the lack of mention of dense packed cellulose insulation as an option here. Not as good as foam but with a little education, certainly DIY friendly and a better option over rock wool. More eco friendly, better R value if done right, fewer installation pitfalls. I quit using batt insulation forever ago. Dense pack is a great compromise and Lowes will let you rent the machine for free if you buy enough bales. How do you dense pack with rented equipment from lowes? When I've had it done they sprayed water at the discharge end of the hose to get it to stick , shaved the walls every once and a while sucking it back into the truck, the spraying more , rinse & repeat Does lowes rent all that equipment? |
| 14 years ago I bought a new 12x24 wood framed shed to use as a shop to make recurve bows and long bows. Exterior is Hardy board, roof is fiberglass shingled. Used fiberglass insulation for walls and ceiling. I put 3 bottles of Roach pruff powder on top of the 2x4 bottom plate where it meets exterior Hardie board. Then used 7/16 inch OSB for walls and ceiling.. painted interior with Kilz white paint. Installed 7 double 48" florescent lights..would use LED now. Added a wall and door for a 6ft x 12 ft room for glue up and spray finish work.. Put a 6000 BTU window shaker AC unit. 60 amp service with 3 220 outlets for edge sander, dust collector and 16 inch band saw. My little shop seems to be insulated pretty good without floor insulation..Glad you thought ahead and had floor insulated! A mini split AC will be a great choice. Make sure you have more than enough electric service. For my use I needed lots of good bright light, the white walls and ceiling really help. Does not get too cold here so I just have a little 120volt ceramic heater. |
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Quoted: How do you dense pack with rented equipment from lowes? When I've had it done they sprayed water at the discharge end of the hose to get it to stick , shaved the walls every once and a while sucking it back into the truck, the spraying more , rinse & repeat Does lowes rent all that equipment? Interested in the answers to this. I've never worked with dense-pack cellulose. |
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Quoted: How do you dense pack with rented equipment from lowes? When I've had it done they sprayed water at the discharge end of the hose to get it to stick , shaved the walls every once and a while sucking it back into the truck, the spraying more , rinse & repeat Does lowes rent all that equipment? I've never seen a wet shot cellulose machine at my local lowes but it reckon it could be out there somewhere. I've done dry pack. Basically, you stretch a barrier across the studs... reinforced poly if it needs a vapor barrier or poly mesh if not... staple it down. Tuck it tight into each stud bag and tack it with a wide crown stapler. It'll be tight like a drum head. Cut a small x at the top, feed the blower hose to the bottom and fill until it stops. Back out a little and keep going. There's a feel to getting the density you're shooting for but the goal is 3.5- 4.5 lbs cuft. Unlike loose cellulose, it won't settle because it's prepackaged. No itch. Fills the voids really well without air gaps like batts. No convective heat loss like you get with fiberglass. A bit more time consuming but worth it. EDIT: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/dense-pack-cellulose-insulation-done-right Here's a decent write up on dense packed cellulose. Their technique is a little different but it's basically the same. |
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Got quote for insulation $2300 for spray foam installed just ceiling R21 R20 4” (may be too thick) rigid foam material $1200 R15 rock wool material $500ish Probably going with rock wool and only R15 sadly Between the $5500 wood stove quote and spray foam this thing can get expensive! |
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Quoted: Got quote for insulation $2300 for spray foam installed just ceiling R21 R20 4” (may be too thick) rigid foam material $1200 R15 rock wool material $500ish Probably going with rock wool and only R15 sadly Between the $5500 wood stove quote and spray foam this thing can get expensive! Rock wool is an amazing sound insulator though. So you get two benefits out of that. |
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I miss my portable building. Had a 16x40. It was a repo and was only a year old when I made an offer for $6500 at the dealership. They accepted my offer. $7k all in out the door. Building was in great shape. Small porch and 2 exterior doors. The quote for a brand new one at the time (2017) was $35,000. Ended up selling it due to divorce and didnt have the room for it where I moved to. |
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Quoted: Got quote for insulation $2300 for spray foam installed just ceiling R21 R20 4” (may be too thick) rigid foam material $1200 R15 rock wool material $500ish Probably going with rock wool and only R15 sadly Between the $5500 wood stove quote and spray foam this thing can get expensive! What is the "rigid foam material"? Pink board? |
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Quoted: What is the "rigid foam material"? Pink board? Quoted: Quoted: Got quote for insulation $2300 for spray foam installed just ceiling R21 R20 4” (may be too thick) rigid foam material $1200 R15 rock wool material $500ish Probably going with rock wool and only R15 sadly Between the $5500 wood stove quote and spray foam this thing can get expensive! What is the "rigid foam material"? Pink board? yes the pink board |
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so my brother is a contractor and he recommended I add 2x2's to the roof 2x4's to make them "2x6's" so I can put more insulation. This is going to slow me down. I started the electrical this weekend. Slow going on my end. Work sucks the life force out of me and not much left on the weekends. |
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Quoted: Ordered a GE profile over window ac like this photo https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/65995/9B4C4A89-F43F-4DA0-A4FC-2C908099255C_jpe-2747343.JPG Wanting a Jotul F 602 small wood stove that retails for around $1500 But quotes are over $5k installed My wife thinks a pro has to install a wood stove and does not want to diy (she is afraid of leaking roof too) What about 90 degrees through wall? This is same stove from a random google search https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/65995/17BE5BC2-7EEB-46CC-B610-55DAFA0FE1F5_jpe-2747347.JPG i can't speak to jotul, but my tinywoodstove 4k dwarf cost about $2500 for the stove and all the flue parts and i had such a hard time finding contractors i finally said screw it and installed it myself. (more pics in my cabin thread in homestead)   the mfg said it drafts better through ceiling than through wall, but everyone i talked to said roof would eventually leak so i went through the wall. It actually drafts really well but there's a trick to building fires and not filling the cabin with smoke before the draft gets going. i am not an expert by any means but from my reading i'd be concerned about the pipe in your pic. If that's a single wall pipe, i think the diameter is too large for the stove and would be difficult to get a draft going. to draft well, i think you need to do most or all of these: - correctly size the pipe - have a cold air intake from outside so it doesn't create a negative pressure in the cabin that stops the draft (see pic below of black pipe in bottom which is my cold air intake) - minimize bends. going straight out the back and having 1 90* bend isn't as good as straight up, but it works. 2 bends gets sketchy for draft and then contributes to creosote build up and is a PITA to clean to boot  from a safety standpoint, read the NFPA-211 standards for heat shields. even if you pay a dude to build it, odds are he hasn't read them and won't know. if you plan to get insurance you will prob need an inspection. from a practical standpoint, i love the small stove BUT make sure you have a source for tiny wood. My stove mfg claims it will take logs up to 9" long but the door opening isn't that wide so that means you'd have to insert one end first and then pivot the log around which is not fun when it's 600+ degrees. I have a local firewood purveyor whose machine will cut any length so i paid about $250 for a dump truck load and told them for the last two loads 6-8". If you're cutting it yourself, just think about what a PITA cutting small logs is before you buy a small stove. as an alternate heat source i bought a diesel air heater from planar (autoterm) which has been fantastic. Another DIY job since I couldn't find any contractors, so I just mounted it on the side of my cabin, ran the controller through the wall and cut holes in the floor to mount ducts (2 hot out, 1 cold in). I'm building a rain cover for it now. Press the on button and the whole cabin will be warm in 15 min. it's not pretty but it works!   |
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Nice woodstove will heat that place right up. Get a plain old Window AC unit and mount it in the wall. 110V AC wont draw much power. A heat/AC will pull some power. I know I have one and dont use the Heat part. Also she can get backgrounds off Amazon and change them for shits and giggles for her meetings. |
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Quoted: Working on insulation now and going to cover with knotty pine Walks I used crafted backed R15 But not sure what to do for roof. It's 2x4 and spray foam is so expensive in my area. Do I vapor barrier? Just stuck right now. Nail up radiant barrier? The foil covered bubble wrap looking stuff. If your roof has vents, which it probably does, leave gaps for air flow. If you want spray foam. Check the price on the DIY froth paks or Tiger Foarm. But still going to cost about $800 for ~600 board ft. |
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Quoted: @dayphotog Where’s you find that shed/barn? I got the PREMIER LOFTED BARN CABIN https://www.premierbuildings.us |
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Quoted: I've never seen a wet shot cellulose machine at my local lowes but it reckon it could be out there somewhere. I've done dry pack. Basically, you stretch a barrier across the studs... reinforced poly if it needs a vapor barrier or poly mesh if not... staple it down. Tuck it tight into each stud bag and tack it with a wide crown stapler. It'll be tight like a drum head. Cut a small x at the top, feed the blower hose to the bottom and fill until it stops. Back out a little and keep going. There's a feel to getting the density you're shooting for but the goal is 3.5- 4.5 lbs cuft. Unlike loose cellulose, it won't settle because it's prepackaged. No itch. Fills the voids really well without air gaps like batts. No convective heat loss like you get with fiberglass. A bit more time consuming but worth it. EDIT: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/dense-pack-cellulose-insulation-done-right Here's a decent write up on dense packed cellulose. Their technique is a little different but it's basically the same. Never heard of this before. I was gearing up to do fiberglass Batts. |
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Quoted: I've never seen a wet shot cellulose machine at my local lowes but it reckon it could be out there somewhere. I've done dry pack. Basically, you stretch a barrier across the studs... reinforced poly if it needs a vapor barrier or poly mesh if not... staple it down. Tuck it tight into each stud bag and tack it with a wide crown stapler. It'll be tight like a drum head. Cut a small x at the top, feed the blower hose to the bottom and fill until it stops. Back out a little and keep going. There's a feel to getting the density you're shooting for but the goal is 3.5- 4.5 lbs cuft. Unlike loose cellulose, it won't settle because it's prepackaged. No itch. Fills the voids really well without air gaps like batts. No convective heat loss like you get with fiberglass. A bit more time consuming but worth it. EDIT: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/dense-pack-cellulose-insulation-done-right Here's a decent write up on dense packed cellulose. Their technique is a little different but it's basically the same. @Homesteader375 could this be done on roof rafters also? |
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Quoted: I've never seen a wet shot cellulose machine at my local lowes but it reckon it could be out there somewhere. I've done dry pack. Basically, you stretch a barrier across the studs... reinforced poly if it needs a vapor barrier or poly mesh if not... staple it down. Tuck it tight into each stud bag and tack it with a wide crown stapler. It'll be tight like a drum head. Cut a small x at the top, feed the blower hose to the bottom and fill until it stops. Back out a little and keep going. There's a feel to getting the density you're shooting for but the goal is 3.5- 4.5 lbs cuft. Unlike loose cellulose, it won't settle because it's prepackaged. No itch. Fills the voids really well without air gaps like batts. No convective heat loss like you get with fiberglass. A bit more time consuming but worth it. EDIT: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/insulation/dense-pack-cellulose-insulation-done-right Here's a decent write up on dense packed cellulose. Their technique is a little different but it's basically the same. @Homesteader375 could this be done on roof rafters also? |
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Quoted: The window units are REALLY loud compared to a mini split. You will notice it. I have noticed this too. I would def go mini split, though the cost will be more. ETA: I know everyone is into spray foam at this point, but in my small business alone, I have seen five instances of leaking roofs that required EXTENSIVE tear out to find the point of leak, because of the foam. I love spray foam in the walls, and especially spot applications at wall (and roof) penetrations, behind outlet boxes, etc. But for roofs, nobody has been able to change my opinion from the first time I saw it installed. And now, a lot of applications in our area are at the age where trouble is starting to show itself. If the roof leaks, I want it to show itself quickly and in a location that makes sense and is easy to trace back to the leak. YMMV of course, and I know I'll get haters. But in a climate where there is snow load, hail, or high wind storms, no spray foam in roofs for me. The possibilities for mold, condensation, and a significant number of other issues has made me glad I held on to skepticism. @dayphotog JLC on dense pack for roofs (unvented) @zeekh |
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Quoted: I have noticed this too. I would def go mini split, though the cost will be more. ETA: I know everyone is into spray foam at this point, but in my small business alone, I have seen five instances of leaking roofs that required EXTENSIVE tear out to find the point of leak, because of the foam. I love spray foam in the walls, and especially spot applications at wall (and roof) penetrations, behind outlet boxes, etc. But for roofs, nobody has been able to change my opinion from the first time I saw it installed. And now, a lot of applications in our area are at the age where trouble is starting to show itself. If the roof leaks, I want it to show itself quickly and in a location that makes sense and is easy to trace back to the leak. YMMV of course, and I know I'll get haters. But in a climate where there is snow load, hail, or high wind storms, no spray foam in roofs for me. The possibilities for mold, condensation, and a significant number of other issues has made me glad I held on to skepticism. @dayphotog JLC on dense pack for roofs (unvented) @zeekh Quoted: Quoted: The window units are REALLY loud compared to a mini split. You will notice it. I have noticed this too. I would def go mini split, though the cost will be more. ETA: I know everyone is into spray foam at this point, but in my small business alone, I have seen five instances of leaking roofs that required EXTENSIVE tear out to find the point of leak, because of the foam. I love spray foam in the walls, and especially spot applications at wall (and roof) penetrations, behind outlet boxes, etc. But for roofs, nobody has been able to change my opinion from the first time I saw it installed. And now, a lot of applications in our area are at the age where trouble is starting to show itself. If the roof leaks, I want it to show itself quickly and in a location that makes sense and is easy to trace back to the leak. YMMV of course, and I know I'll get haters. But in a climate where there is snow load, hail, or high wind storms, no spray foam in roofs for me. The possibilities for mold, condensation, and a significant number of other issues has made me glad I held on to skepticism. @dayphotog JLC on dense pack for roofs (unvented) @zeekh I was looking at spray foam too but after looking at actual application of it and finished product I wasn't impressed. I'm doing rockwool in the floors, walls, and ceilings. And a multizone minisplit. |
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Quoted: I was looking at spray foam too but after looking at actual application of it and finished product I wasn't impressed. I'm doing rockwool in the floors, walls, and ceilings. And a multizone minisplit. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The window units are REALLY loud compared to a mini split. You will notice it. I have noticed this too. I would def go mini split, though the cost will be more. ETA: I know everyone is into spray foam at this point, but in my small business alone, I have seen five instances of leaking roofs that required EXTENSIVE tear out to find the point of leak, because of the foam. I love spray foam in the walls, and especially spot applications at wall (and roof) penetrations, behind outlet boxes, etc. But for roofs, nobody has been able to change my opinion from the first time I saw it installed. And now, a lot of applications in our area are at the age where trouble is starting to show itself. If the roof leaks, I want it to show itself quickly and in a location that makes sense and is easy to trace back to the leak. YMMV of course, and I know I'll get haters. But in a climate where there is snow load, hail, or high wind storms, no spray foam in roofs for me. The possibilities for mold, condensation, and a significant number of other issues has made me glad I held on to skepticism. @dayphotog JLC on dense pack for roofs (unvented) @zeekh I was looking at spray foam too but after looking at actual application of it and finished product I wasn't impressed. I'm doing rockwool in the floors, walls, and ceilings. And a multizone minisplit. Its your money, but rockwool isn't that much better than regular fiberglass with it comes to pros and cons. Eco friendly is the biggest selling point first off. Its not bad, but a lot of it is marketing |
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Ac Hooked up and it’s not using much power and cools the whole thing pretty good. Wasn’t even hot in the lofts on a hot humid day (high 80’s) Super quiet too Attached File Attached File This is whole house, if home central air kicks on it jump up to 4 kw Attached File |
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Quoted: Its your money, but rockwool isn't that much better than regular fiberglass with it comes to pros and cons. Eco friendly is the biggest selling point first off. Its not bad, but a lot of it is marketing I disagree strongly, but respect other opinions. There are a lot more differences than being eco-friendly, though I am not the one to outline them. Here are the ones I have experienced personally: *The sound dampening alone is a significant benefit for me, as I restore old houses. Strategic use of Rockwool is something I would HIGHLY recommend where sound dampening is needed. I recently did an old house where a bathroom was adjacent to the kitchen/living room space. Fiberglass would give almost ZERO sound dampening. The Rockwool was significantly better. Once I saw how much better, I decided to use Rockwool in all walls surrounding bathrooms, and between family living spaces and bedrooms, even if I didn't use it in the rest of the house. *Rockwool does not harbor mold. So if you get a leak, you won't have mold spreading as easily. It is more moisture resistant than fiberglass. Fiberglass soaks up water like a sponge. Rockwool WILL absorb water eventually, but not nearly as quickly and it doesnt spread as much. If you've ever had a roof leak and had to tear out half the house, you know this is a significant benefit. *It doesn't itch. So if you are doing any of it yourself, or you are digging into it for any reason, you will be glad you chose the Rockwool. *Rodents don't like it. They avoid it. It's hard to make a house rodent resistant. It's even harder to get the damn rats to move out. If I can put in an insulation that is easy on human lungs but bad for rodents? Yeah, I'm gonna do that. *If you squeeze fiberglass, you reduce the R-value. If you squeeze Rockwool to fit a space, you don't reduce the R-value. So if you are cutting the batts, you don't have to cut smaller. You can cut bigger and shove it in there. *You get MOAR R-value per inch of insulation with Rockwool. So if you have limited space, you get more insulation with Rockwool than you do with fiberglass. I understand there are detractors. But it's a no-brainer for me. |
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Quoted: I disagree strongly, but respect other opinions. There are a lot more differences than being eco-friendly, though I am not the one to outline them. Here are the ones I have experienced personally: *The sound dampening alone is a significant benefit for me, as I restore old houses. Strategic use of Rockwool is something I would HIGHLY recommend where sound dampening is needed. I recently did an old house where a bathroom was adjacent to the kitchen/living room space. Fiberglass would give almost ZERO sound dampening. The Rockwool was significantly better. Once I saw how much better, I decided to use Rockwool in all walls surrounding bathrooms, and between family living spaces and bedrooms, even if I didn't use it in the rest of the house. *Rockwool does not harbor mold. So if you get a leak, you won't have mold spreading as easily. It is more moisture resistant than fiberglass. Fiberglass soaks up water like a sponge. Rockwool WILL absorb water eventually, but not nearly as quickly and it doesnt spread as much. If you've ever had a roof leak and had to tear out half the house, you know this is a significant benefit. *It doesn't itch. So if you are doing any of it yourself, or you are digging into it for any reason, you will be glad you chose the Rockwool. *Rodents don't like it. They avoid it. It's hard to make a house rodent resistant. It's even harder to get the damn rats to move out. If I can put in an insulation that is easy on human lungs but bad for rodents? Yeah, I'm gonna do that. *If you squeeze fiberglass, you reduce the R-value. If you squeeze Rockwool to fit a space, you don't reduce the R-value. So if you are cutting the batts, you don't have to cut smaller. You can cut bigger and shove it in there. *You get MOAR R-value per inch of insulation with Rockwool. So if you have limited space, you get more insulation with Rockwool than you do with fiberglass. I understand there are detractors. But it's a no-brainer for me. Quoted: Quoted: Its your money, but rockwool isn't that much better than regular fiberglass with it comes to pros and cons. Eco friendly is the biggest selling point first off. Its not bad, but a lot of it is marketing I disagree strongly, but respect other opinions. There are a lot more differences than being eco-friendly, though I am not the one to outline them. Here are the ones I have experienced personally: *The sound dampening alone is a significant benefit for me, as I restore old houses. Strategic use of Rockwool is something I would HIGHLY recommend where sound dampening is needed. I recently did an old house where a bathroom was adjacent to the kitchen/living room space. Fiberglass would give almost ZERO sound dampening. The Rockwool was significantly better. Once I saw how much better, I decided to use Rockwool in all walls surrounding bathrooms, and between family living spaces and bedrooms, even if I didn't use it in the rest of the house. *Rockwool does not harbor mold. So if you get a leak, you won't have mold spreading as easily. It is more moisture resistant than fiberglass. Fiberglass soaks up water like a sponge. Rockwool WILL absorb water eventually, but not nearly as quickly and it doesnt spread as much. If you've ever had a roof leak and had to tear out half the house, you know this is a significant benefit. *It doesn't itch. So if you are doing any of it yourself, or you are digging into it for any reason, you will be glad you chose the Rockwool. *Rodents don't like it. They avoid it. It's hard to make a house rodent resistant. It's even harder to get the damn rats to move out. If I can put in an insulation that is easy on human lungs but bad for rodents? Yeah, I'm gonna do that. *If you squeeze fiberglass, you reduce the R-value. If you squeeze Rockwool to fit a space, you don't reduce the R-value. So if you are cutting the batts, you don't have to cut smaller. You can cut bigger and shove it in there. *You get MOAR R-value per inch of insulation with Rockwool. So if you have limited space, you get more insulation with Rockwool than you do with fiberglass. I understand there are detractors. But it's a no-brainer for me. It doesn’t seem to sag as much, either, and has much better fire resistance. |
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Quoted: Looks like great progress, keep plugging away at it. Did you furr out the roof rafters to get 6"? Is the roof vented at all? At the peak? Looks like a small hole vent at the gable peak, is that the only venting? Only 4” roof and vapor barrier. Only the little vents at each end that came with shed. Not sure how to make those more weathertight. Nobody local could give me the vent / no vent sealed/ unsealed roof info and I just did what we did. Not sure if correct but should last a few years I hope |