[ARCHIVED THREAD] - $300 AR thread for Spring! (Page 17 of 23)
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Anyone have a quick review on the $199 complete uppers from Classic Firearms? Considering getting one to finish out my other lower. The one I received in 7.62X39 had a rusty bore, and so did several others, but they shoot well and the current batch seems to have the issue straightened out. |
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@Doorman63
Quoted: Here’s a $200 complete upper.
Just needs a rear sight https://www.classicfirearms.com/bearcreekarsenalupperar15assbly Log out & log back in, bud. Merry Christmas!  Failed To Load Title |
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@Doorman63 In recognition of the above post, which caused Classic Firearms to sell out & have to frantically reorder, I nominate Doorman63 as Rookie of the Year. Log out & log back in, bud. Merry Christmas!  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHVIVNoIPVMThank you sir! Of course I never bought one myself....... |
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I got one of my LPKs today and there's a bit of fockery going on. IDK if this is a known thing, but do I need a special hammer pin? Because it seems a tad short. Also, what size roll pin for the buffer retainer?
Attached File Attached File Also, if you're left handed and want a lefty safety selector. Abandon that idea right now because it's not easy pushing it through from right to left. |
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No, you're good on the hammer pin. The J-spring will keep it in place.
For the buffer retaining pin retaining pin, you can just use a paperclip. Cut it to length and dab a bit of Loctite @ each end. GWACS or Cav Mfg will sell you the correct rollpin - think they're about $2 shipped. Or check Home Depot or Lowe's. |
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I got one of my LPKs today and there's a bit of fockery going on. IDK if this is a known thing, but do I need a special hammer pin? Because it seems a tad short. Also, what size roll pin for the buffer retainer? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/195976/2017-12-15_20-392134.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/195976/2017-12-15_20-392135.JPG Also, if you're left handed and want a lefty safety selector. Abandon that idea right now because it's not easy pushing it through from right to left. |
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The pin is a common size listed somewhere in this thread. The harbor freight pin kit has it in it too. Quoted:
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I got one of my LPKs today and there's a bit of fockery going on. IDK if this is a known thing, but do I need a special hammer pin? Because it seems a tad short. Also, what size roll pin for the buffer retainer? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/195976/2017-12-15_20-392134.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/195976/2017-12-15_20-392135.JPG Also, if you're left handed and want a lefty safety selector. Abandon that idea right now because it's not easy pushing it through from right to left. |
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Built my first two using the cheap $200.00 uppers from Classic.
Chopped the sight off of the gas block on one and put on a free float handguard. I had trap door butt plates and need to order some non trap door ones. Has anyone used something other than a AR butt plate in these? Attached File |
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Built my first two using the cheap $200.00 uppers from Classic. Chopped the sight off of the gas block on one and put on a free float handguard. I had trap door butt plates and need to order some non trap door ones. Has anyone used something other than a AR butt plate in these? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/263282/BAE5E6D9-4627-4A36-B876-F98F15A71440-392612.JPG |
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Buttstock condom? 
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Shoot me a text tonight, wouldja? I'm thinking 1600ish?
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| Walmart carries them in black-but that's a good idea on what to try! |
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Have we done this yet?
http://www.royaltigerimports.com/product-p/m215rk010.htm 
With a $40 Anderson you're @ $350 before shipping, with a rail no less. |
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I just ordered a pistol kit from ceratac.com. $ 249 complete kit, minus lower with dick mod rail. I spent the $9.99 to upgrade to mlok. I'll have an idea of the quality once it comes in.
Ceratac ETA: Oh and free shipping as well |
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Well, my BIL and I got two Sabre lowers completely assembled onto Classic uppers this afternoon, and got a good start on the 3rd. Took us about 3 hours. He's a machinist, and has built a few ARs before, but not on this lower.
We all knew when we put uppers on em, the Sabre lowers were TIGHT. Turns out, they're not just tight to the upper. They're tight in the LRBHO well, and the FCS well. Not a bad thing, just have a file & a Dremel handy. On the LRBHO, you may have to do a bit of sanding if the fit of the two halves of the lower didn't align perfectly in the welding process. Don't forget to trim the spring as Sinistral has told us in his video. With the safety, the holes may be misaligned. One solution is to hold the lower up on a drill press and turn it on, and run it up & down the bit a couple of times. The safety will then turn freely. DON'T get your detents mixed up. That means tapping out the safety again, which can push out the wall of the safety detent and bind against the trigger. We were able to fix it, but try not to have to remove the safety. You'll probably have to Dremel some amount of material out of the sides of the FCS pocket. I'm trying to put in a $100 chassis trigger, and having to take several passes with the Dremel to get enough plastic out to fit the thing. I'll try to take some pics and put them up later. |
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I swapped out a mil-spec trigger in my Sabre lower to a Larue MBT and it's not wanting to reset if I hold trigger back after a good follow-through while I cycle the bolt. If I safe it or smack the side of the lower it will reset. It will also reset if I don't hold the trigger back. It didn't do any of this in the standard lower it was in and the mil-spec that was previously installed in the Sabre lower didn't either.
Any ideas on how to solve it? Could the trigger well be a bit too tight? Should I try some oil at the contact points with the trigger well sides? |
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Quoted: I swapped out a mil-spec trigger in my Sabre lower to a Larue MBT and it's not wanting to reset if I hold trigger back after a good follow-through while I cycle the bolt. If I safe it or smack the side of the lower it will reset. It will also reset if I don't hold the trigger back. It didn't do any of this with the mil-spec.
Any ideas on how to solve it? |
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Had the same issue w/ a mil-spec trigger not wanting to reset if I held it down. Got into the FCS pocket w/ a Dremel & sanding drum, and the issue cleared up. Quoted:
Quoted: I swapped out a mil-spec trigger in my Sabre lower to a Larue MBT and it's not wanting to reset if I hold trigger back after a good follow-through while I cycle the bolt. If I safe it or smack the side of the lower it will reset. It will also reset if I don't hold the trigger back. It didn't do any of this with the mil-spec.
Any ideas on how to solve it? ETA: where all did you sand? Where the trigger/hammer sides interface with the polymer? |
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Result of the veterans Day free Bear Creek barrel I got. Total of $187 in the upper, haven't decided on a muzzle device yet. If I complete one of the 80% lowers my brother gave me I should have the rifle complete(less optic) for just under $300. Estimate is $325 if I say fuck the work and buy a lower.
And yes, the inside of the dustcover says Party On, Dudes! 
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Quoted: Damn it. Ok, thanks.
ETA: where all did you sand? Where the trigger/hammer sides interface with the polymer? When I went to put the chassis trigger in, I had to use the little drums to get @ the front. Was finally able to cram it in there, and happily the little screws fit the pins, despite the lock arms not fitting. |
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Thank You for this info.
A cheap build has allowed me to give my: Son #1 Son #2 Son #3 Daughter Brother Nephew Mom Niece An ar for Christmas. $350 a no brainer easy Christmas gift and something they will have for long after I am gone. Did use the andersen lowers but for a 1st theyll get bye. So 8 new California AR owners. My oldest has had his all of 2 days and wants to build an ar10 now... |
| Last parts for my build are ordered-thanks to the member way back who posted the Bear Creek free barrels, I have spent a total of $309.48 completing the rifle itself, $30 on a SPR style scope mount and the scope is yet to be decided. Could have gotten it down $50 cheaper if I'd milled out one of the 80% lowers my brother gave me free, but decided to save the work instead. The 80% might turn into a .22 in spring. |
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Prices just keep dropping folks! Updated OP w/ new total before shipping/FFL fees - $280.
The Anderson @ Primary just dropped to $30, which bmw20 noticed: http://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-ar-15-stripped-lower-receiver-ar-15-a3 And Ceretac has their $250 kits back in stock: https://www.ceratac.com/Carbine-Classic-Kit-80-p/kit-556-c-ck-u-blk.htm That's with a KeyMod free-float rail, slicker than the $200 uppers @ Classic. |
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Prices just keep dropping folks! Updated OP w/ new total before shipping/FFL fees - $280. The Anderson @ Primary just dropped to $30, which bmw20 noticed: http://www.primaryarms.com/anderson-manufacturing-ar-15-stripped-lower-receiver-ar-15-a3 And Ceretac has their $250 kits back in stock: https://www.ceratac.com/Carbine-Classic-Kit-80-p/kit-556-c-ck-u-blk.htm That's with a KeyMod free-float rail, slicker than the $200 uppers @ Classic. I wish I could buy the upper by itself. I have a complete upper I could use one on. ETA: To hell with it. I just sold a Glock. I bought one with a 15" rail. I'll build it and have some spare parts. Too good a deal to pass up. I'll have a complete rifle w/ rail and one of the new blem PA red dots for less than $400. ETA2: Anyone have one of these already? Interested in what sort of quality to expect and what to tell my brother about them. |
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Back down to $290 before shipping today. Ceretac kits are back in stock. Primary still @ $40/lower, may as well get the enclosed trigger guard from Aim Surplus.
https://www.ceratac.com/Carbine-Classic-Kit-80-p/kit-556-c-ck-u-blk.htm 
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