3 Gun is getting popular in my area. Guys are starting to bring their custom rifles and I'm only using a an AR for long range and want to go lighter. I'm in the market for 500 yards or less, if that makes since. I'm new at building rifles so I'm open to buying one outright but I understand after reading that isn't the best case. Looking for any information that might help me get started. Even some brand names to look out for and weights to try to stick to. Thank you in advance.

My advice wont go far here maybe but unless you really are trying to go pro my advice is use serviceable weapons and gear, have fun and compete against yourself.

If I wouldnt grab it in the boogaloo I dont want to compete with it.

GA Precision, JP rifles, Knights Armaments are all good rifles.  Once you understand how they are built, what works, and what you want the rifle to do, you may well be able to build your own rifle that has exactly the features you want.

run what you have until you find what holds you back.... I run a BCM 14.5 middy with a shit mil-spec trigger.... works just fine. I may upgrade trigger at some point but I will not get all "race gun"  maybe a geissele sd-c

My best advice would be to window shop and ask questions at matches. I've never met a 3 gunner that isn't happy to discuss gear or even let you try it out.

For 500 yards and under a 16" or 18" barrel with 1/8 twist and wyld chamber seems to be the crowd favorite. Thinner rail, adjustable gas block, 3.5 lb or lighter trigger, muzzle break and a 1-6 or 1-8 optic of your choice will round things out.

Looking at the cost for a "gamer" rifle straight from the factory and considering most of them come with a mil spec trigger I would build a gun to your own specs.

If you want something that's ready to go our of the box, I love my Armalite competition rifle (see avatar) but I could have built a similar rifle much cheaper.

Here is a list of parts as a rough draft. Not complete but also may be what I'm aiming for.
AR-15 Parts List
Stripped Lower
https://www.battlearmsdevelopment.com/shop/product/bad556-lr-ambi-bad556-ambidextrous-lightweight-billet-lower-receiver-3724?category=29
Lower Parts Kit
Trigger (If not using parts kit trigger)
https://www.opticsplanet.com/timney-triggers-ar-15-trigger.html?_iv_code=2AN-ART-TTAR15T-667S-ST
Buffer Kit  (Buffer, buffer tube, buffer spring)
Stock
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/stock-parts/buttstocks/ar-15-battlelink-minimalist-stock-collapsible-mil-spec-prod81191.aspx?avad=avant&aid=155690&cm_mmc=affiliate-_-Itwine-_-Avantlink-_-Custom+Link&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=Avantlink&utm_content=NA&utm_campaign=Itwine
Pistol Grip
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/grip-parts/pistol-grips/ar-15-pistol-grip-prod71443.aspx
Stripped or Assembled Upper
https://www.opticsplanet.com/battle-arms-development-5-56-caliber-lightweight-upper-receiver-gen2.html
Forward Assist (If using a Stripped Upper)
Dust Cover (If using Stripped Upper)
Barrel
https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/16-inch-223-hanson-625-mid-ss-premium-barrel.html
Handguard
https://www.opticsplanet.com/2a-armament-m-lok-balios-g2-rail-w-ti-barrel-nut.html?_iv_code=2CU-HZ-MLOBLSR-2A-BLRML-15G2
Gas Tube
This I will have to ask builder about length
Gas Block
https://www.opticsplanet.com/battle-arms-development-lightweight-625-in-diameter-rifle-gas-block.html?_iv_code=2OS-RGB-LW625GBL-BAD-LGB-TI-625-B
Bolt Carrier Group
https://www.primaryarms.com/rubber-city-armory-standard-mass-m16-bolt-carrier-group-titanium-bti-001
Charging Handle
https://www.opticsplanet.com/noveske-super-badass-airborne-charging-handle-5-56.html?_iv_code=NVK-CGH-SBACH-05001188
Muzzle Device - Jerry Mitchel - https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100334906/

looks like your going down a good path.

You may want to look at an adjustable gas block or gas keys, it makes almost as much difference as your muzzle break for recoil reduction.

Look into "clocking" your JM break, its a great break ( I have a couple) but some people feel canting helps with muzzle rise (it's personal preference and easy enough to try clocked or not clocked to see what you like)

I have a couple of the battle link minimalist stocks, but I've relegated them to my PCC's. I saw a pro get the hook of the stock tangled up with his pistol while tucking and running from one side of a stage to the other. His pistol popped out and he was DQ'd… could have been a fluke but it opened my eyes to the design. If your running a LPVO I would recommend a magpul stock with a LaRue riser, it lets you get a really firm/repeatable cheek weld wich helps when your hammering and even more on long range stuff. If you watch at matches you'll see a lot of shooters adjusting their face to the optic during a stage, the riser will end that if its an issue for you.

Thanks for the info sdc360. I'll definitely look into that stock recommendation. I wasn't married to it as I am to other parts so I'm definitely up for suggestion on that.
The gas system is a great suggestion. It's something I'm not as familiar with and will definitely be spending more time online to find out more.
I really appreciate you time in posting to this.

For me barrel, trigger and ammo are the most important.

which part of PA are you in?

I'll keep that in mind thanks. I'm in south central PA.

Out of the box, the Armlite 3g is a great rifle as mentioned above. Look at the 13” barrel with the pinned comp.  lately, I’ve been shooting a 14.5” rifle at matches out to 500 yards and I’m using either 75gr or 77gr rounds without any issues.

IWLA York has 3/2 gun matches on 2nd Sunday. Check out their calendar. I’m in Philly so I shoot matches at New holland/Topton, Ontelaunee, and Easton.

I picked up a Daniel Defense DDM4V7 PRO - Been really impressed with it, and the trigger is awesome,

I will always remember my first IPSC match.    One of the club’s advanced competitors hearing his name called, turned quickly to his left and dumped his racegun from his super duper holster into the sand.  Not to practical I figured.


I just stuck with my carry holster and conceded I wasn’t competing but against myself.

The rifle needs to be a versatile one.
Long range (out to 600?) and bay work.

Weight is an issue, so keep it as light as possible/affordable.

16" bbl of decent quality
best trigger you can afford
a 1-8 LVPO that you can afford
I suggest a red dot 45 deg offest

Outside of that, make it your own.

I comfie HG is a must too.


ETA: ADJ GAS BLOCK  is a must have

here is my baby

Attached File

For your use I would look at a 16" inch mid or 18" rifle length gas system barrel. You chose a 16" mid, so you should be good there. Also no need to ask about the gas tube, you need a mid length one.
Upper/lowers and looks are all up for personal taste as long as you get a quality set you should be fine. A forward assist is of little use though, so if you want really light you can drop that.
Choose a comfortable and long handguard, unless you have monster hands thinner is better. More options on how to hold it if it is longer.
For a pistol grip, all depends on the size of your hands and personal preference. For me I know it fits when the top of my index/trigger finger just reaches the magazine release comfortably. Grip angle etc is a personal thing and it is hard to recommend anything there.
For the charging handle, especially if you plan to mount an optic you can take something oversized so you can still reach/use it easily. Finding the balance for how big it is to use comfortably to avoid getting it entangled in other gear is something you need to find out on your own.
Trigger wise before buying one with a  straight trigger shoe, try it out. From experience I know it is a love it or hate it thing.
Buttstock wise, make sure you have something that is comfortable to shoot and which rises easily to your cheek without loosing contact on your shoulder.
Allmost all of the above is something you should be able to easily try at a match if you ask your fellow competitors. Most will let you try their stuff and talk about the reasons why they chose it if you ask nicely.
For advanced shooting you could look into an adjustable gas block and a lighter bolt carrier. Thus you can tune recoil better and it will be lighter with less mass. You have to be careful with this as it can compromise reliability if you don't know what you're doing.

Anyway in order of importance, regariding your rifle. I would say make sure you have a decent grip first, as this makes sure you have good finger placement. Then the trigger comes next, especially a good trigger with a short reset will help with those double-taps. Most people like single stage ones for this application, however some still like to use 2-stage ones. Up to you and what you like. Then a good handguard as it helps you a lot getting a good stance and grip. Then comes the comp. Most comps will do a decent enough job. Timing it might sometimes increase the effect, something you will have to try on your own. Then you can start playing with buffers, recoil springs, lightened bolt carriers and adjustable gas.

However the most important is practice, and getting the fundamentals up to spec. You can have the most expensive and tuned competition rifle, it won't help you if you can't exploit the benefits of what you have in your hands. I would recommend to continue for a while with what you have and figure out what is important for you and what works for you and others, and only then you can start to put a new rifle together.

my 3 gun rifle has a RRA chrome moly 16" mid 1/9 twist barrel, on an Armalite Eagle lower... it shot a particular lot of 55grain S&B M193 with NATO circle cross exceptionally well,(5" at 400m) but shooting mostly 200m ranges in Florida did not prepare me for the 400+ meter ranges at Ft Benning...what really helped was having a scope with good ranging stadia lines matched with corresponding bullet drop, good light gathering for less than perfect lighting, and having stadia lines to help with wind hold off

I'm not familiar with the reticle options on low powered variable optics out there, and not familiar enough with a mil-dot reticle to use one,.... but would suggest a reticle that is not "too busy"... that has bullet drop compensation matched to your bullet weight/velocity... and what really helps me a horizontal stadia line... the width of the stadia that subtends a particular distance to allow you to hold up wind to correct for wind drift...

if that doesn't make sense...the stadia lines on my ACOG subtend the width of a man's shoulders (19") at the indicated hold over distance, approximately 10" on either side of the vertical... in 2010 for Ft Benning, I was still shooting the 55grain S&B... on the 418m MGM flash target in a strong quartering wind...I held the upwind edge for shot one, half a stadia line additional for shot two, and whole stadia line for a hit on shot 3

when the S&B ran out a second lot did not shoot nearly as well, so for the half dozen additional years I shot 3 gun, used a 69grain Sierra Match King loaded by Australian Outback for anything past 200m... Shannon usually had 400m MGM flash or LaRue resetting targets at Area 6... regards

JP ultralight upper, built out a skeletonized lower, Nemo 300blk spring and stock buffer is a frikin solid option. That’s what I built. Started with a JP 18” full CTR and went to my hybrid build and it crushes in bays and out to 500.