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Posted: 7/23/2026 6:38:05 PM EDT
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what is the process you use? Clean? Lube? Rockset? Loktite? Nothing? Tools? Torque values? In my case it will be mounting a SiCo Bravo mount into a Tisha 556 suppressor. Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By DekeD: Clean, tiny drop of Rockset and then torque by hand with whatever weenie spanner it came with. -Deke Thanks Deke. Do you put the drop on the threads and spread it, or just put the drop on and let the threads spread it as you mount it? I haven't used Rockset before. |
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Keep in mind, it takes water to disbond a ceramic-based adhesive, so the deeper it resides in the thread path, the more difficult it'll be to expose to water. A local drop near the back edge of the threads, near the edge of the interface, will make it more readily exposable to water for disassembly. I like the idea of acrylic polymer-based adhesives being water resistant & requiring simple heat application to bond break them, but I wish the heat thresholds were higher; loktite 2620 & 2422 are strongest stuff I've found so far, but they're only good up to ~650°F. |
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Originally Posted By Master_Blaster: Keep in mind, it takes water to disbond a ceramic-based adhesive, so the deeper it resides in the thread path, the more difficult it'll be to expose to water. A local drop near the back edge of the threads, near the edge of the interface to catch water, will make it more readily exposable to water for disassembly. I like the idea of acrylic polymer-based adhesives being water resistant & requiring simple heat application to bond break them, but I wish the heat thresholds were higher; loktite 2620 & 2422 are strongest stuff I've found so far, but they're only good up to ~650°F. Thanks, I am thinking about just using a little hi temp suppressor grease on the threads and tightening it to 30 ft. Lbs. I don’t use thread locker on my muzzle devices and they don’t come loose when torqued correctly. 🤷🏼♂️ |
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Originally Posted By Gotterdammerung: I have had good luck with ST-3A @Gotterdammerung Thanks. Do you apply it to both surfaces/threads or just one? Do you torque the HUB device down as well after application? It's prevented your HUB device from backing out, but allows removal? |
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Originally Posted By KTM300XCW: Thanks, I am thinking about just using a little hi temp suppressor grease on the threads and tightening it to 30 ft. Lbs. I don't use thread locker on my muzzle devices and they don't come loose when torqued correctly. Originally Posted By KTM300XCW: Originally Posted By Master_Blaster: Keep in mind, it takes water to disbond a ceramic-based adhesive, so the deeper it resides in the thread path, the more difficult it'll be to expose to water. A local drop near the back edge of the threads, near the edge of the interface to catch water, will make it more readily exposable to water for disassembly. I like the idea of acrylic polymer-based adhesives being water resistant & requiring simple heat application to bond break them, but I wish the heat thresholds were higher; loktite 2620 & 2422 are strongest stuff I've found so far, but they're only good up to ~650 F. Thanks, I am thinking about just using a little hi temp suppressor grease on the threads and tightening it to 30 ft. Lbs. I don't use thread locker on my muzzle devices and they don't come loose when torqued correctly. Carbon seal is tougher than 30ft/lbs of torque. |
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Originally Posted By RolandofGilead: Suppressors change that math dude. Your muzzle device will absolutely come right off and then be stuck inside of your suppressor/mount. Carbon seal is tougher than 30ft/lbs of torque. Originally Posted By RolandofGilead: Originally Posted By KTM300XCW: Originally Posted By Master_Blaster: Keep in mind, it takes water to disbond a ceramic-based adhesive, so the deeper it resides in the thread path, the more difficult it'll be to expose to water. A local drop near the back edge of the threads, near the edge of the interface to catch water, will make it more readily exposable to water for disassembly. I like the idea of acrylic polymer-based adhesives being water resistant & requiring simple heat application to bond break them, but I wish the heat thresholds were higher; loktite 2620 & 2422 are strongest stuff I've found so far, but they're only good up to ~650 F. Thanks, I am thinking about just using a little hi temp suppressor grease on the threads and tightening it to 30 ft. Lbs. I don't use thread locker on my muzzle devices and they don't come loose when torqued correctly. Carbon seal is tougher than 30ft/lbs of torque. @RolandofGilead Thanks, so what do you suggest? |
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Originally Posted By RolandofGilead: I only have experience with rocksett. It's not all that hard to remove, soaking for some time will do it. Originally Posted By RolandofGilead: Originally Posted By KTM300XCW: @RolandofGilead Thanks, so what do you suggest? It's not all that hard to remove, soaking for some time will do it. Thanks |
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Originally Posted By KTM300XCW: Thanks Even with rocksett I've had a MD get stuck in a suppressor...I torqued correctly but didn't degrease very well before hand...this is how I know, painful experience 
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ST3 doesn’t work - I’ve had stuff spin right off as soon as things get hot. Charlie works fine on almost anything - Bravo/HUB, not so much. HUB threads are the hardest to keep things tight. I have had some luck with high-temp 246 blue loctite, but I am moving to the single drop of rocksett on all of my rear can mounts and barrel mounts. After a while, and after a few things getting stuck together and/or spinning off you get tired of that weak link real quick. I tried all the things before rocksett and I’ve come to the same conclusion most everybody else has. Confidence is worth far more than convenience. |
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Originally Posted By Brahmzy: Confidence is worth far more than convenience. This is the best argument for built in mount cans. When I had just started making suppressors, we had a batch of suppressors that were threaded together. The plan was to use rocksett and assemble them for good. Rocksett was recommended by most manufacturers as the product to use when installing muzzle devices. The threads were a pretty snug fit. We had subcontracted parts and CNC contract manufacturing people seem to have a pattern of making threads tighter than they should be. I don't know if that had anything to do with it. We basically soaked the male threads in Rocksett (we applied liberally). We assembled the parts. We tested the product a few days later. We had a failure of the rocksett to keep the assembly threaded together. The end cap rotated maybe half a rotation. We called flexbar (the rocksett company) they explained Rocksett as essentially glass media floating in a water based carrier fluid. They said the water needed to leave the assembly and the glass needed to be dry in order for the product to work. They suggested we bake the cans at 150F for several hours (I think 4) to remove the water from the threads. They mentioned it was important the heat not be over 212F because the water would boil and the steam might push out the glass. They also suggested we buy a new bottle of the product in case the product was a bad mix or whatever. So we bought a new bottle, disassembled everything that would disassemble, re-applied the product (again liberally), baked the cans at "warm" in oven for several hours, retested the product a few days later, and still had a couple threaded fittings fail to stay tight. We ended up spot welding the parts to keep them from unscrewing. In that process I completely lost my faith in Rocksett. Fortunately around that time Tukka from Ase Utra said they just used 35-40 foot pounds of torque on 1/2x28 muzzle devices and they never had a problem. I found that to track. I confess if I'm doing something really destructive like trying to destroy a can, I might go 45 ft lbs on 1/2x28 just to be more secure, but I've not had muzzle devices come off. I also haven't really found that to be detrimental to accuracy as others have suggested it might be. I have had a lot of guns shoot sub minute with 35-40Ft lbs of torque on 1/2x28. |
Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Originally Posted By Green0: This is the best argument for built in mount cans. When I had just started making suppressors, we had a batch of suppressors that were threaded together. The plan was to use rocksett and assemble them for good. Rocksett was recommended by most manufacturers as the product to use when installing muzzle devices. The threads were a pretty snug fit. We had subcontracted parts and CNC contract manufacturing people seem to have a pattern of making threads tighter than they should be. I don't know if that had anything to do with it. We basically soaked the male threads in Rocksett (we applied liberally). We assembled the parts. We tested the product a few days later. We had a failure of the rocksett to keep the assembly threaded together. The end cap rotated maybe half a rotation. We called flexbar (the rocksett company) they explained Rocksett as essentially glass media floating in a water based carrier fluid. They said the water needed to leave the assembly and the glass needed to be dry in order for the product to work. They suggested we bake the cans at 150F for several hours (I think 4) to remove the water from the threads. They mentioned it was important the heat not be over 212F because the water would boil and the steam might push out the glass. They also suggested we buy a new bottle of the product in case the product was a bad mix or whatever. So we bought a new bottle, disassembled everything that would disassemble, re-applied the product (again liberally), baked the cans at "warm" in oven for several hours, retested the product a few days later, and still had a couple threaded fittings fail to stay tight. We ended up spot welding the parts to keep them from unscrewing. In that process I completely lost my faith in Rocksett. Fortunately around that time Tukka from Ase Utra said they just used 35-40 foot pounds of torque on 1/2x28 muzzle devices and they never had a problem. I found that to track. I confess if I'm doing something really destructive like trying to destroy a can, I might go 45 ft lbs on 1/2x28 just to be more secure, but I've not had muzzle devices come off. I also haven't really found that to be detrimental to accuracy as others have suggested it might be. I have had a lot of guns shoot sub minute with 35-40Ft lbs of torque on 1/2x28. Thanks for this Austin - good stuff. I definitely torque all of my GA MDs to the specified torque. A few have gone over by 5 lbs or so to get the timing right. I was really mainly talking about the HUB interfaces I’ve had issues with in the past unscrewing. These are where it’s tough to get real good torque past very hand tight with most suppressor wrenches. A thread locker of some sort is necessary IMO. In those cases a little rocksett has seemed to do the trick. Back to the barrel mounts, there sure are a lot of manus that use rocksett on their factory mounts. I believe Knights uses rocksett. I’d be curious to find out what torque they crank their MDs on with too. I too have also heard rocksett has a very short shelf life - year max once opened - maybe less. |
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@Green0 On the subject of over-torquing an MD to the point of affecting accuracy (again, lots of differing opinions on this (I have plenty of sub-MOA barrels (with good ammo like FGMMs) with MDs torqued right up to the max.)) Am I trying to hit 8” steel at 1,000yds with said rifles - no. Anyway, is the thought on the MD over-torquing affecting accuracy (let’s say 50-55lbs on 1/2x28 just for example’s sake) that it actually twists the metal and permanently degrades accuracy (even if you spin off the MD) because the muzzle is permanently deformed? Or is it more of a temporary deformation / harmonics issue that goes away once an MD is untorqued and/or removed? Does moderate over-torquing in the above example permanently destroy a barrel’s accuracy potential? Again we’re not talking 100ft lbs here. I do wish all rifle barrel manus and the rifle industry would transition to 5/8x24 for 22cal. It would have some pretty disruptive effects on the market for years (especially the suppressor market) but I think it would fix one of the potential points of weakness in the platform. If perfection and platform maturity is the ultimate goal, anyway. I guess that would remove pencil barrels and .625 GBs, so it would never happen, but at least make it a solid, broad parallel permanent option, geared towards the suppressor market. |
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I have gone up to 45 ft lbs, I would not recommend 50. The issue is stress reaches yield at very high barrel temperatures. There was a guy who actually designed a device to compress the barrel at the muzzle and improve accuracy. It kind of worked. The thread essentially does that under high torque. 5/8-24 doesn’t really solve the issue as 24 pitch makes torque requirements higher 45-50 vs ~35-40 to guarantee retention under hard use. If they wanted to target a solution 5/8-28 would probably make more sense, as you could maintain torque and make a stronger barrel end. I don’t really love the solution as it blows up skus. We support sigs tapered bareels in a few mounts now like 8 skus? So those represent an alternative system with probably lower torque requirements as well. |
Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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Originally Posted By Gotterdammerung: I have had good luck with ST-3A What's the temp threshold? ETA, search returns 350°F-450°F. |
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I personally do not like Rocksett. Too many instances of failing when you don't want it to, and not being able to soften it when you do need to separate things. As mentioned, water that is needed to soften it has a hard time getting to it in threads. This is compounded by a tight fit on one end where the interface is, and carbon & other deposits keeping it out on the other end. Many times I've had to use an impact gun to break mounts & adapters free because boiling water or days-long soaks didn't work. I like Loctite 272. It is less fickle about the cleanliness of surfaces than rocksett, I've never had a part work loose on it's own using it, and when you need to remove it, all you have to do is get the area to 450°F, no waiting. Yes, if you try to remove a super hot can, the Loctite may be softened and release. But I'm not in the habit of removing suppressors that are still so hot the mount end is over 400 degrees. |
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Originally Posted By ECCO_Machine: I personally do not like Rocksett. Too many instances of failing when you don't want it to, and not being able to soften it when you do need to separate things. As mentioned, water that is needed to soften it has a hard time getting to it in threads. This is compounded by a tight fit on one end where the interface is, and carbon & other deposits keeping it out on the other end. Many times I've had to use an impact gun to break mounts & adapters free because boiling water or days-long soaks didn't work. I like Loctite 272. It is less fickle about the cleanliness of surfaces than rocksett, I've never had a part work loose on it's own using it, and when you need to remove it, all you have to do is get the area to 450°F, no waiting. Yes, if you try to remove a super hot can, the Loctite may be softened and release. But I'm not in the habit of removing suppressors that are still so hot the mount end is over 400 degrees. I appreciate the reply. I think I may go this route versus Rocksett. |
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Not sure what you mean...I'm probably just an idiot. Muzzle device to the barrel, hub system mount to the suppressor, or muzzle device into the hub system mount. I use a little Rocksett for the muzzle device to the barrel, but not a ton. Make sure the threads are clean and degreased. Don't use Rocksett to mount the hub system to the suppressor unless you are prepared for it to be permanent, or you later want to destroy your suppressor with autistic rage when sequentially bigger hammers don't work when trying to remove said mount. I just torque to value with clean threads and live with that system. Just keep muzzle devices clean, and they should mount to the taper by hand. |
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Originally Posted By stevelish: Don't use Rocksett to mount the hub system to the suppressor unless you are prepared for it to be permanent, or you later want to destroy your suppressor with autistic rage when sequentially bigger hammers don't work when trying to remove said mount. I just torque to value with clean threads and live with that system. This is the direction I was just given by 2 suppressor manufacturers. They said just clean the threads well and torque it down. No threadlocker. |
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Yeah, except that doesn't work. ^^ There HAS to be a threadlocker of some sort. Simple Gorilla torque on HUB rear mount >< Suppressor doesn't work. They spin off. I've had decent luck even having just blue high-temp medium loctite 246 on there, but naked + torque doesn't work. |
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Originally Posted By Brahmzy: Yeah, except that doesn't work. ^^ There HAS to be a threadlocker of some sort. Simple Gorilla torque on HUB rear mount >< Suppressor doesn't work. They spin off. I've had decent luck even having just blue high-temp medium loctite 246 on there, but naked + torque doesn't work. |
Your boos mean nothing, I've seen what makes you cheer
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Originally Posted By Brahmzy: Yeah, except that doesn't work. ^^ There HAS to be a threadlocker of some sort. Simple Gorilla torque on HUB rear mount >< Suppressor doesn't work. They spin off. I've had decent luck even having just blue high-temp medium loctite 246 on there, but naked + torque doesn't work. I bought a SiCo Omega 30 cal in 2015. It probably has 15k rounds on it minimum. It has never come loose. I called SiCo to see what they recommend. They said when I bought that suppressor, nothing was used on the threads, it was just torqued. I guess I got lucky. That's also what they recommended I do with my new suppressor. |
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Originally Posted By KTM300XCW: I bought a SiCo Omega 30 cal in 2015. It probably has 15k rounds on it minimum. It has never come loose. I called SiCo to see what they recommend. They said when I bought that suppressor, nothing was used on the threads, it was just torqued. I guess I got lucky. That's also what they recommended I do with my new suppressor. Funny, because it’s happened to every one of my SiCo Bravo/HUB cans (including 2 O300s). Never Charlie threads. Definitely not a me thing, many other HUB user reports on the issue. |
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