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Posted: 10/27/2025 11:37:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Findsman][Edited]
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This is probably an unusual request. I have a spare Beretta 96 barrel that was threaded M14.5x1 LH to match USP Tactical barrel threads in 40. Concentric threading, but all my M14.5 pistons and the CAM-LOK adapter for that system will thread all the way into the face of the slide. Barrel was too short for the length of the threads. Threading it all the way down pushes the slide out of battery which obviously is bad. ![]() I had tossed it into my parts bin as a lost cause but it was suggested to try to find someone that could make a short threaded spacer that could go into the CAM-LOK adapter to shorten how far it threads down, so it won't hit the slide face. It would look like the cut off tip of a M14.5LH barrel, oh-so-slightly overbored to .41 or so, with some notches cut in the back that I could get a screwdriver or the tips of a snap-ring plier in to turn it. I'd need to measure how long it'd need to be but I'd guess no more than a half inch. My crappy diagram: Attached File I realize shortening the thread engagement has risks which I accept. I know zero smiths or tool people that can handle it and a handful I've emailed won't touch metric thread projects at all. This is exactly the crazy thing I could get Morgan Richey to take care of back in the day, but.... well, RIP bro. Anyone have any thoughts on it? I'd also consider something like a thread convertor M14.5x1LH female to 9/16x24 male if the female threads end were made short. Haven't seen anything like that though. |
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Opinions are my own and not the views of my employers, organizations, or other associated people.
Opinions are my own and not the views of my employers, organizations, or other associated people.
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I assume the pistons and cam-lok adapters you use seat on the muzzle face? (vs a shoulder, like 1/2x28) If you're willing to accept less thread engagement, what about having one of your pistons or cam-lok adapters shortened? It would leave the muzzle seating face in the piston or adapter intact to maintain can/adapter alignment, vs a thread insert which may not have the same perpendicularity as the seating surface once installed. It would also not involve any metric threading, just facing off the back of the piston/adapter, so no worries on finding a guy equipped to metric thread. ETA: And if you don't need to take too much off, or if you don't mind doing some work yourself, you could use a flat surface and sandpaper to take material off the back of your adapter or piston and avoid shipping it out for work. Measure what you've got sticking out the front of the slide, that will pretty much be the thread engagement you'll have once you do this (minus whatever clearance you put between the slide and adapter). Since metric pistol barrels should be seating on the muzzle face, thread engagement should not affect alignment. I want to hear other opinions, but I think it'll only affect the torque you can put on it to keep it seated/keep it from backing off. -you'd also need to watch that the piston doesn't get too short and recess into the can. The can would also get closer to the pistol with this method, so you'd need to watch that the frame/recoil spring assembly still clear. |
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I got everything out and it's something like 1mm that'd need to removed from the back of the adapter to keep it from bottoming out. Why didn't I think of that? Ugh. That's definitely something I could knock out in my garage. |
Support the Firearms Policy Coalition and help save the Second Amendment: https://www.firearmspolicy.org
Opinions are my own and not the views of my employers, organizations, or other associated people.
Opinions are my own and not the views of my employers, organizations, or other associated people.
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Threading it all the way down pushes the slide out of battery which obviously is bad. 