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Posted: 1/26/2024 9:08:04 AM EDT
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Years back I did a form 1 build using an SDTA threaded adapter to a Griffin taper lock end cap. Seems that those two don’t want to stay tight. Every time I go to remove the can the Griffin adapter stays on the barrel then I have to remove it and screw it back on to the can. What is the best thread locker to use on a silencer that gets as hot as they do? If I use a little red loctite, will it last or burn up the first time I use it again? |
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Originally Posted By Gotterdammerung: ST-3A thread sealant Max working temp = 400F |
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I always start with blue and work my way up, if loctite won't get the job done then move to rockset. Even though the heat will breakdown the loctite, there is usually enough resistance to allow the barrel thread to break free first which still counts as success in my book. |
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Since this is the F1 section. How come there isn’t more use of a left handed thread thrown in the design to absolutely not unthread when taking off the right handed end cap? It seems like a no brainer. Still use a sealer. Zero experience but I like to read up in case I get in to it one day. |
The only hyphenated names I like are cartridge names......30-06, 30-40, 38-55 etc.
I cannot argue that it isn’t extra set up work. My lathe with a D1-5 spindle and reverse on the spindle and the threading bar makes it not all that bad as long as I actually engage my brain lever first. I have cut a perfect left handed thread when I wanted a right. It was so clean and nice looking but completely not what I wanted.  I make my own expanders for reloading at times and at a certain point I needed to go to bed instead of play with the machines. |
The only hyphenated names I like are cartridge names......30-06, 30-40, 38-55 etc.
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