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The $100 effective Form1 suppressors, and one not so $100 56k beware, or even 2mb like me...... (Page 7 of 120)
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For me the silver(15baffle) was a touch quieter, and a bit less on the first round pop.
Unmodified tubes(turned down), silver is apogee(stainless) and the BLK is SDtac(steel) but they both weight roughly the same(RAW tube). On my shitty scale(it reads in 2oz increments) the SD tube was 1# 12oz and the Apogeewith 15 baffles is 2# even. Once tubes are cut should be a 6oz reduction. I think I am preferring the 9 baffle setup, but these cans will get a more thorough workout this weekend with subs and supers. And will snag some daylight video of that. On a side note: The silver can I just got the stamp today, from time of reading the email from the atf to shooting the first round through the can was less then an hour. This was forming all the baffles and making the blast chamber, drilling the endcap, assembling it, loading 2 mags and snagging two of my guys to Guinea pig them in the video. And assembly on the apogee was a pain, I had to turn each baffle down slightly and tap them into place as the tube seems to be a touch smaller then the SD and the center boring line inside the tube(posted a pic on another page) I have to smack the freeze plugs past. |
| Layout looks good, consistent with what you would expect to work well. What I was planning to run with FP one was very close, a 5-6 with progressive spaced from there, but last one always at least 1" spacer (so 1-2 baffles less). Wish you had a commercial can to test with them. Did the iOS app not work out? I'd like to see you go all steel, the hollow endcap in steel would weigh about the same and effectively give you another .5" or so baffle at the end. I bought one of the Griffin mounts like your using and sent it to a machinist to be made in steel. |
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I wasn't the one doing the ap for the sound. I do have a feeler out with a local suppressor maker but they have not got back to me yet.....hoping they have sound equipment.
I plan to hollow out the aluminum endcap, and will do it but later. I would like a steel griffin mount however the aluminum end cap does not bother me. I know of one 6" SD tube suppressor with aluminum griffin and end cap that took over 1k of 556 on a short barrel (10.3")in a short time, the powder coat on the tube bubbled off and the aluminum ends turned a bronze color but all held up fine. It was purposefully cooked, if I can get one of the pics Ill post it. 
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That's a bit of relief, I still haven't been able to get a steel Griffin adaptor. I'm wanting to throw mine together with the aluminum one I have and see how it does. It's going on a 11.5 barrel 223.
As long as your running 300blk subsonic, the best baffles should be K's. With the supersonic stuff K's don't work quite as well, but still work. |
| I got a nice fat box or plugs today, now I need to get the forms made for pressing them. We are going to be doing several of the pressing jigs (so we can do the 45* and then 60* six at a time), would anyone be interested in getting them as well? I have no idea on costs yet but will know next week, but my machinist is really reasonable. They will be straight walled with a nice rounded top to aid in turbulence behind the baffle. And you should be able to press them from either side to form the cone you want (cone back into the plug or out the front of the plug). We could probably even work in the ribs that some MFG have too, and I am open to any suggestions you all may have. |
You only have power over people so long as you don't take everything away from them. But when you've robbed a man of everything, he's no longer in your power, he's free again.-Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
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Originally Posted By esstac-:
I wasn't the one doing the ap for the sound. I do have a feeler out with a local suppressor maker but they have not got back to me yet.....hoping they have sound equipment. I plan to hollow out the aluminum endcap, and will do it but later. I would like a steel griffin mount however the aluminum end cap does not bother me. I know of one 6" SD tube suppressor with aluminum griffin and end cap that took over 1k of 556 on a short barrel (10.3")in a short time, the powder coat on the tube bubbled off and the aluminum ends turned a bronze color but all held up fine. It was purposefully cooked, if I can get one of the pics Ill post it. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/6inch%20cooked.jpg I know the owner of that can, I'll send you some pictures of the cooled can. |
Nothing ever happens in Berezino.
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Originally Posted By esstac-: New videos, 8" V 8" Silver one has 15 baffles and a 1.7" blast chamber, Black has 9 baffles and a 2.25" blast chamber. Both have the same 45+60deg cones and not clipped yet.  http://youtu.be/llNCUxQ2RtE http://youtu.be/-THu6giabWo http://youtu.be/Q44QY58u6lQ |
Circle, circle, dot, dot, now I got my EBOLA shot.
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How much would a single (one at a time) former be? Something easy to use with a vise or small press?
The cats pajamas would be a former with a centering hole built in. Form baffle, then center mark for better control of just where the holes end up. Originally Posted By BlueLogo:
I got a nice fat box or plugs today, now I need to get the forms made for pressing them. We are going to be doing several of the pressing jigs (so we can do the 45* and then 60* six at a time), would anyone be interested in getting them as well? I have no idea on costs yet but will know next week, but my machinist is really reasonable. They will be straight walled with a nice rounded top to aid in turbulence behind the baffle. And you should be able to press them from either side to form the cone you want (cone back into the plug or out the front of the plug). We could probably even work in the ribs that some MFG have too, and I am open to any suggestions you all may have. |
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Originally Posted By DRhodes:
I know the owner of that can, I'll send you some pictures of the cooled can. Originally Posted By DRhodes:
Originally Posted By esstac-:
I wasn't the one doing the ap for the sound. I do have a feeler out with a local suppressor maker but they have not got back to me yet.....hoping they have sound equipment. I plan to hollow out the aluminum endcap, and will do it but later. I would like a steel griffin mount however the aluminum end cap does not bother me. I know of one 6" SD tube suppressor with aluminum griffin and end cap that took over 1k of 556 on a short barrel (10.3")in a short time, the powder coat on the tube bubbled off and the aluminum ends turned a bronze color but all held up fine. It was purposefully cooked, if I can get one of the pics Ill post it. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/6inch%20cooked.jpg I know the owner of that can, I'll send you some pictures of the cooled can. It's good to hear that it held up. This the same length upper on my sbr so I was wondering if it would take the abuse. |
The things that kill me, make me feel alive!
The Fappening 8/31/14 -History was made!
The Fappening 8/31/14 -History was made!
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Originally Posted By ponykilr:
How much would a single (one at a time) former be? Something easy to use with a vise or small press? The cats pajamas would be a former with a centering hole built in. Form baffle, then center mark for better control of just where the holes end up. That is what I am going to find out first. I would imagine that if the mold slid down a chute where the plug and former was screwed onto that, it would do both centering and forming. That is a good idea, we will ask about that. That would be more expensive from a materials alone standpoint, but could be a time saver. |
You only have power over people so long as you don't take everything away from them. But when you've robbed a man of everything, he's no longer in your power, he's free again.-Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
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Originally Posted By esstac-:
I wasn't the one doing the ap for the sound. I do have a feeler out with a local suppressor maker but they have not got back to me yet.....hoping they have sound equipment. I plan to hollow out the aluminum endcap, and will do it but later. I would like a steel griffin mount however the aluminum end cap does not bother me. I know of one 6" SD tube suppressor with aluminum griffin and end cap that took over 1k of 556 on a short barrel (10.3")in a short time, the powder coat on the tube bubbled off and the aluminum ends turned a bronze color but all held up fine. It was purposefully cooked, if I can get one of the pics Ill post it. http://www.esstac.com/pictures/form1/6inch%20cooked.jpg Have any pics of the baffles? I'm interested in erosion. |
" I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you with tears in my eyes. If you fuck with me I will kill you all" Major General James Mattis, USMC speaking to Iraqi tribal leaders during the march to Baghdad, 2003
| I only have access to a vise. How long is the Grizzly 60degree cone tool? Can I hacksaw it down to a more manageable size? I"m thinking of building one of these to put on an 11.5 6.8 SBR. Has anyone tried using countersunk fender washers as the last couple of baffles? How much louder is it if one uses a direct thread vs the Griffin brake? |
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining. http://s20.postimg.org/fsqmnw9yl/Tall_Shot_Glass.jpg Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
The internal volume of a shot glass is 1.5 ounces. Internal volume of a K baffle could also be right about 1.5 ounces. Anyone interested in doing a group buy on shot glasses from emachine? K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining. http://s20.postimg.org/fsqmnw9yl/Tall_Shot_Glass.jpg If EMachine shop can make it for 13 each. try www.chinaprototyping.com. I made a CNC prototype in aluminum by them and they were WAYYYYY better in pricing than emachine shop. Here is the project I used them for... http://sudoshidesign.blogspot.com/ |
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Originally Posted By Sudoshi:
If EMachine shop can make it for 13 each. try www.chinaprototyping.com. I made a CNC prototype in aluminum by them and they were WAYYYYY better in pricing than emachine shop. Here is the project I used them for... http://sudoshidesign.blogspot.com/ Originally Posted By Sudoshi:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
The internal volume of a shot glass is 1.5 ounces. Internal volume of a K baffle could also be right about 1.5 ounces. Anyone interested in doing a group buy on shot glasses from emachine? K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining. http://s20.postimg.org/fsqmnw9yl/Tall_Shot_Glass.jpg If EMachine shop can make it for 13 each. try www.chinaprototyping.com. I made a CNC prototype in aluminum by them and they were WAYYYYY better in pricing than emachine shop. Here is the project I used them for... http://sudoshidesign.blogspot.com/ You should submit a design then! |
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I could get a TON of funnels made in a China shop for very cheap. The problem is, what would I do with them? I'm not really setup for web orders and have no real way of taking orders (or an actual count on how many people would want these and how many they'd need). If I could get a consensus on what people are looking for, and a commitment, it would probably be easier to get going. This is probably also skirting the COC for this site and I don't want to run afoul of the site rules on selling!  PS: ChinaPrototype was not the cheapest I found. I can't speak to the other firms' quality, but I had several quotes about 50% the cost. |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
If I could get a consensus on what people are looking for Probably the small spout ones, since the valve retainers work for the 30cal. Also there doesn't have to be a large spout one since you can drill the small ones out. More 1.350" ones will sell than 1.375", although it makes no since to purchase a SDTA or Apogee tube over a custom tube most people buying them would not know about the custom tube to start with. |
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In case there are some confusion. Www.Chinaprototyping.com is part of www.leecheer.com, which is where I used. There are so many of different site that have similar names.
And they are mainly for low quantity. That's where they are cheaper than others in. Can't speak for large volume since they are mainly for prototyping, not production runs. |
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I'm going to get some pricing on a custom brake that would fit the SD acme threaded rear cap. I'm not terribly fond of his overall design, but I like the acme threading and he's already selling the rear caps... |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
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I'm going to get some pricing on my brake design ASAP. Anyone want in on it so I can get a rough part count for pricing? I'm figuring stainless of some kind, 316, 416, or maybe 17-4PH. I can have them melonited for less than $15 additional each or just leave them raw; not sure which way to go there yet. A lot will depend on how much they will cost; which also depends on how many I order at once...  |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
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baffle pics please |
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That sucker got HOT! Steel turns straw colored around 400F and deepens into purple, then blue, and finally gray at about 1200F. The center of than can was easily north of 400F and the blast chamber looks blue, so ~900F!
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Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
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Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
I'm going to get some pricing on my brake design ASAP. Anyone want in on it so I can get a rough part count for pricing? I'm figuring stainless of some kind, 316, 416, or maybe 17-4PH. I can have them melonited for less than $15 additional each or just leave them raw; not sure which way to go there yet. A lot will depend on how much they will cost; which also depends on how many I order at once... http://s20.postimg.org/64eluf6gd/Brake.jpg Nice design, the wrench flat (I missed that first glance), looks about as compact as you can get. I'd personally rather see cheaper versions of the Griffin mounts made. 1- Not all that different from the current solution. 2- There is not a adapter for the custom tube, it really makes no since to buy a SDTA or Apogee over the custom tube. Taking this path means you are going to have send your tube to a machinist to fix the profile and have a machinist turn down tubing so you can make spacers, in order to get a decent weight usable product, or have a machinist make one for the custom tube. 3- The Flash Comp brake mount is the big advantage to going the Griffin route. Most people are using suppressors are SBR's, I would not run a brake on my SBR, I have a Griffin and Battlecomps on mine. The griffin mount is appealing because of the flash comp. 4- The Griffin 1"-20unf is more secure mounting wise, the downside it requires using a thread projector but that is a good tradeoff. |
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Why wouldn't you use a brake on an SBR? The reason I chose the Acme thread is two-fold. 1st, there's already an end cap made for it, and 2nd it's 12 tpi. Obviously there's the benefit of the structural strength of Acme threads but beyond that I like a faster thread if I'm not doing a direct thread-on. Griffin's 1"-20tpi isn't that much faster than the 5/8"-24tpi. As for the material between the ports, I believe the amount I left is needed for a good wrench flat. Maybe I'm overly cautious... The 12tpi Acme shouldn't be insecure really. All it does is pull the end cap against the 45° surface at the back of the brake. That bearing surface serves to both align the suppressor and the large angled surface area provides a significant lockup to the mount. I'll look at both options though. FYI, the thread for the SD brake/cap appears to be 7/8"-12tpi.
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Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
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Why wouldn't you use a brake on an SBR? - Because you pretty much can't shoot it without the suppressor, very loud. If your not going to shoot your sbr unsuppressed just buy a thread on and use a VR as the first baffle at least instead no need for a brake or qd system. I spend about 45 minutes trying to enlarge a VR from .325" to .34 (bit) before giving up, drilling through 316SS that was solid seemed like butter by comparison, the m300 hardened tool steel retainers are some tough stuff. I run a brake on my 12.5" SBR for 3 gun with plugs and muffs bystanders to not really like this, lol. The Griffin (the battecomp type one) on my 11.5" is really tame by comparison. The griffin option is somewhat appealing to me because I could run a can on my go to rifle (that has the griffin, the battlecomp type one) and my game guns (that have other 3 port brakes now but would be fine with the 2 port griffin). Griffin and Damage industries make brake shields in 1"-20 which is nice for a SBR also when shooting unsuppressed. My actual plan is to have another upper dedicated to a suppressor.
Griffin's 1"-20tpi isn't that much faster than the 5/8"-24tpi. - I am thinking most people are not quickly disconnecting suppressors and are primarily using the mount systems as a way to use their rifles without the suppressor, and the speed of thread on is not really an issue. You can't just take the muzzle devices on and off on a whim. As for the material between the ports, I believe the amount I left is needed for a good wrench flat. Maybe I'm overly cautious... - I had missed this on first glance and did not notice the wrench flat. Your right this design looks perfect. The 12tpi Acme shouldn't be insecure really. All it does is pull the end cap against the 45° surface at the back of the brake. That bearing surface serves to both align the suppressor and the large angled surface area provides a significant lockup to the mount. - I changed mind I think your right on this probably better than some of the commercial solutions. This is definitely better than the SDTA solution. |
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Originally Posted By c5hardtop: Why wouldn't you use a brake on an SBR? - Because you pretty much can't shoot it without the suppressor, very loud. If your not going to shoot your sbr unsuppressed just buy a thread on and use a VR as the first baffle at least instead no need for a brake or qd system. I spend about 45 minutes trying to enlarge a VR from .325" to .34 (bit) before giving up, drilling through 316SS that was solid seemed like butter by comparison, the m300 hardened tool steel retainers are some tough stuff. I run a brake on my 12.5" SBR for 3 gun with plugs and muffs bystanders to not really like this, lol. The Griffin (the battecomp type one) on my 11.5" is really tame by comparison. The griffin option is somewhat appealing to me because I could run a can on my go to rifle (that has the griffin, the battlecomp type one) and my game guns (that have other 3 port brakes now but would be fine with the 2 port griffin). Griffin and Damage industries make brake shields in 1"-20 which is nice for a SBR also when shooting unsuppressed. My actual plan is to have another upper dedicated to a suppressor. Griffin's 1"-20tpi isn't that much faster than the 5/8"-24tpi. - I am thinking most people are not quickly disconnecting suppressors and are primarily using the mount systems as a way to use their rifles without the suppressor, and the speed of thread on is not really an issue. You can't just take the muzzle devices on and off on a whim. As for the material between the ports, I believe the amount I left is needed for a good wrench flat. Maybe I'm overly cautious... - I had missed this on first glance and did not notice the wrench flat. Your right this design looks perfect. The 12tpi Acme shouldn't be insecure really. All it does is pull the end cap against the 45° surface at the back of the brake. That bearing surface serves to both align the suppressor and the large angled surface area provides a significant lockup to the mount. - I changed mind I think your right on this probably better than some of the commercial solutions. This is definitely better than the SDTA solution. Downside is it's currently only compatible with the SDTA rear end cap... I'd love for your guy to make some compatible end caps; maybe I'll price some of the 24tpi end caps when I get pricing on the brake. I hadn't thought about the noise issue with brakes; I typically don't use them. Maybe if I think on it some more, I can think of a good looking 3-prongish flash hider. As for the Acme thread vs UNF, well personally I'm sold on the Acme threads; plus using the 1-20tpi may be a moot point depending on price. For all I know at the moment, the Griffin could be a dirt cheap price. I should know more later this week after I talk to some shops. |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
| Well having a shield for it would be nice for SBRs. There are shields for the YHM an AAC ones by 3rd party. Griffin makes 1"-20 ones. Ebay sellers have 1"-20 and the 13/16-16 solvent trap ones. It certainly would be nice to have whatever, SDTA/Griffin/Solvent trap that has a regular break mount, Battle comp type, shield, and 20tpi and 24tpi ends.. then everything would be covered. |
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Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Well having a shield for it would be nice for SBRs. There are shields for the YHM an AAC ones by 3rd party. Griffin makes 1"-20 ones. Ebay sellers have 1"-20 and the 13/16-16 solvent trap ones. It certainly would be nice to have whatever, SDTA/Griffin/Solvent trap that has a regular break mount, Battle comp type, shield, and 20tpi and 24tpi ends.. then everything would be covered. Thread protector and a shortened tube and there you go. |
Don't let your mind be so open that your brains fall out or so closed that your ears rub together. ~Brother Wright
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Looking at this further, the Griffin taper mount 3 prong flash hider only seems to have about 4 threads to engage the thread protector/adapter. Does anyone think this would cause a problem with strength as long as the adaptor were steel? The flash comp and brake have over twice as many.
Also, is the increased noise from the flash comp over a flash hider enough to make you wish it were not there? I like the idea of the flash comp being the first baffle and possibly making the overall system quieter, but I don't want a unbearable unsuppressed rifle. |
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I'm planning on going this route for a Form 1 30 caliber suppressor as the first one. And I have a dilemma.
I'd like to use the SD Tactical brake, but it would be fitted to a .920 Bull Barrel. I'm hoping that the area where it widens is at least .920 so that it butts up to the barrel without leaving an exposed area of barrel. I can't find the dimensions anywhere, and SD Tactical never responded to my e-mail. A member here said they may be able to measure theirs later, but I wanted to ask the general forum. Does anyone have a measurement at the point indicated for the SD Tactical Brake? I really appreciate it. 
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Originally Posted By Erevis:
I'm planning on going this route for a Form 1 30 caliber suppressor as the first one. And I have a dilemma. I'd like to use the SD Tactical brake, but it would be fitted to a .920 Bull Barrel. I'm hoping that the area where it widens is at least .920 so that it butts up to the barrel without leaving an exposed area of barrel. No clue on the SD brake. The flat shelf(inside the step) is .95 on the griffin. |
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Originally Posted By Erevis:
I'm planning on going this route for a Form 1 30 caliber suppressor as the first one. And I have a dilemma. I'd like to use the SD Tactical brake, but it would be fitted to a .920 Bull Barrel. I'm hoping that the area where it widens is at least .920 so that it butts up to the barrel without leaving an exposed area of barrel. I can't find the dimensions anywhere, and SD Tactical never responded to my e-mail. A member here said they may be able to measure theirs later, but I wanted to ask the general forum. Does anyone have a measurement at the point indicated for the SD Tactical Brake? I really appreciate it. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/JDWarren2/brakediameter_zps1ef5b175.jpg The threads are 13/16 (.81") (edit they are actually 7/8, .875") and the area behind that is obviously bigger so I think you are good. It's not of any relevance, only cosmetic if the profile does not match the barrel there. |
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Originally Posted By esstac-:
No clue on the SD brake. The flat shelf(inside the step) is .95 on the griffin. Originally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By Erevis:
I'm planning on going this route for a Form 1 30 caliber suppressor as the first one. And I have a dilemma. I'd like to use the SD Tactical brake, but it would be fitted to a .920 Bull Barrel. I'm hoping that the area where it widens is at least .920 so that it butts up to the barrel without leaving an exposed area of barrel. No clue on the SD brake. The flat shelf(inside the step) is .95 on the griffin. Thanks. So if I understand you correctly, the Griffin will work on a .920 if I the SD is too slim. |
My triskel avatar has no connection to NSM. I am not affiliated with any NSM group, movement, or ideology-- nor do I adhere to any such ideology.
https://www.facebook.com/SwampPolitics
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Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
The threads are 13/16 (.81") and the area behind that is obviously bigger so I think you are good. It's not of any relevance, only cosmetic if the profile does not match the barrel there. Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
Originally Posted By Erevis:
I'm planning on going this route for a Form 1 30 caliber suppressor as the first one. And I have a dilemma. I'd like to use the SD Tactical brake, but it would be fitted to a .920 Bull Barrel. I'm hoping that the area where it widens is at least .920 so that it butts up to the barrel without leaving an exposed area of barrel. I can't find the dimensions anywhere, and SD Tactical never responded to my e-mail. A member here said they may be able to measure theirs later, but I wanted to ask the general forum. Does anyone have a measurement at the point indicated for the SD Tactical Brake? I really appreciate it. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/JDWarren2/brakediameter_zps1ef5b175.jpg The threads are 13/16 (.81") and the area behind that is obviously bigger so I think you are good. It's not of any relevance, only cosmetic if the profile does not match the barrel there. Thanks. Yeah, it is only cosmetic -- sort of. I had to have this barrel threaded, so there is a bare, unfinished area where my (current) JP brake mates up to the barrel. I really didn't want that area exposed. |
My triskel avatar has no connection to NSM. I am not affiliated with any NSM group, movement, or ideology-- nor do I adhere to any such ideology.
https://www.facebook.com/SwampPolitics
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Got my approved form 1 back last week and built it friday. Yesterday I fired 5 magazines at full auto from a 11.5" and got it glowing extremely bright through the NV.
Blast baffle was eroded slightly but all was well. Just about on par with my Osprey 45 with supersonic 115 gr 9mm w/ Glock 17 |
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Originally Posted By Erevis:
Thanks. So if I understand you correctly, the Griffin will work on a .920 if I the SD is too slim. Originally Posted By Erevis:
Originally Posted By esstac-:
Originally Posted By Erevis:
I'm planning on going this route for a Form 1 30 caliber suppressor as the first one. And I have a dilemma. I'd like to use the SD Tactical brake, but it would be fitted to a .920 Bull Barrel. I'm hoping that the area where it widens is at least .920 so that it butts up to the barrel without leaving an exposed area of barrel. No clue on the SD brake. The flat shelf(inside the step) is .95 on the griffin. Thanks. So if I understand you correctly, the Griffin will work on a .920 if I the SD is too slim. it will fit 
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can anyone with a Griffin mount measure the taper at the back? I've gotten preliminary pricing which would put each mount in the $40 dollar range made of 316 stainless. I'm still waiting on pricing with a nitride finish.
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Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
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Originally Posted By Erevis:
I'm planning on going this route for a Form 1 30 caliber suppressor as the first one. And I have a dilemma. I'd like to use the SD Tactical brake, but it would be fitted to a .920 Bull Barrel. I'm hoping that the area where it widens is at least .920 so that it butts up to the barrel without leaving an exposed area of barrel. I can't find the dimensions anywhere, and SD Tactical never responded to my e-mail. A member here said they may be able to measure theirs later, but I wanted to ask the general forum. Does anyone have a measurement at the point indicated for the SD Tactical Brake? I really appreciate it. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w184/JDWarren2/brakediameter_zps1ef5b175.jpg .935" |
" I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you with tears in my eyes. If you fuck with me I will kill you all" Major General James Mattis, USMC speaking to Iraqi tribal leaders during the march to Baghdad, 2003
| The c-cell mag lite tube ID is stated to be 1.03". Plugs for it are supposed to be a sealed power 381-3016 which show to have an OD of 1.00". It's stated that they need to be expanded slightly to fit properly. There is a sealed power plug part # 381-3191 that shows an OD of 1.031. Would that plug not be a better choice as not to have to expand it to make it fit tighter? How tight of a fit are the plugs supposed to be? |
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Originally Posted By hotrod1010:
The c-cell mag lite tube ID is stated to be 1.03". Plugs for it are supposed to be a sealed power 381-3016 which show to have an OD of 1.00". It's stated that they need to be expanded slightly to fit properly. There is a sealed power plug part # 381-3191 that shows an OD of 1.031. Would that plug not be a better choice as not to have to expand it to make it fit tighter? How tight of a fit are the plugs supposed to be? The plugs expand about .015-.020" during the forming process and the SDTA C tube like the D is a bit loose, it is more like 1.035-1.039". So you would be left with 1.02" plugs if you started with the 1" one, They fit too loose in 1.03 tube. Using the jig to expand the 1" plugs to 1.03 or starting with the 1.031 plugs would leave you with 1.045-1.050" plugs that have to be pressed in or you have to reduce the OD somehow after that. If your a building a rimfire then sand down the plugs, if you are building a 300blk or pistol can then you should use Valve retainers, the 1.07" ones I used can be reduced. If your using the custom tube out of my thread (1.000" ID) then you just use the 1" plugs and sand them a bit, order the correct fitting Dorman plugs with it, or use Crane valve retainers for 5.5mm or 6mm stems, at .995" they a perfect fit with .280" hole. |
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Originally Posted By hotrod1010:
Are the cones still preferred in the c-cell tube for 22lr? How do they fit as far as the mag lite brand tube is concerned? Has anyone worked out a decent formula as far as how many and spacing and chamber length? Having seen much on 22lr specific. I used 5 in a 5" tube, like .75 spacing, I would have spaced out further in a longer tube. |
| So right now the numbers for a diy suppressor is total around 400-500 plus the shake down. Seems the cost savings could be better. We need to work on finding stronger cheaper baffles. I am waiting for someone to post a "ah-ha" why didn't I think of that solution. |
You cannot die from chugging 72oz of cola. It only feels like dying!
The $100 effective Form1 suppressors, and one not so $100 56k beware, or even 2mb like me...... (Page 7 of 120)
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