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Posted: 4/27/2024 5:32:39 PM EDT
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I'm looking for alternative switches for the SG NGAL. Ideally I'd like a TAPs style dual switch, with the LA23 plug. I can't find them anywhere. UT seems to have even removed them from their website. For you guys that have spliced switches, do you think it's possible to splice a LA23 plug onto a TAPs wire? Reason being I am training in traditional shooting positions, where my hand fits naturally alongside the LAM, not in CQB where the "C" clamp rules. So the TAPs just fits my needs. Currently I have the (included) SG "modlite" switch at 9 o'clock, and another one w/SF plug mounted on rail behind LAM. While this works, I'd prefer the TAPs. Funny thing is, the IS NGAL came with Crane plug, which worked out nicely with a TAPs. |
It's all about the fiddle factor.
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No idea on the quality, but this Chinese company makes all sorts of knock offs, including just what you are looking for: https://www.specprecision.com/tactical-flashlight-switch/specprecision-new-2024-axon-dual-romote-switch-sfngalla-23-peqcrane25mm.html#/sync_axon-ngal_la23sf_plug_black_color Edit: whoops, I see you are specifically looking for a TAPS style. Wouldn't this one from Somogear fit the bill? https://www.somogear.com/product/somoboat-tactical-pressure-switch/ |
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Eh, yes and no. It really is a fucking boat; it takes up a lot of room and for what I'm not sure. Seems to me, at least for what I'm doing, you could have one switch for the laser, with the function(s) of your choosing, and another for the frickin' light. Why you need 3 is beyond me. Yeah I know WL overide and all, but, for me this feature is just not worth the extra bs. I swear if I could cut off the extra "axon" style switch, I'd do it. It's just too much IMHO. And for sure, for what I'm doing, I can pair 2 x Modlite style switches, with LA23, and SF plugs. You could fit them together, on the side, and it will work, but just seems kinda wonky. I'm not sure why the modlite m-lok mounting screws are so off-set. Be much simpler (maybe even thinner) to mount them on centerline. The footprint is way wider than most common rail flats these days? If anyone finds a UT TAPs sync w/ LA23 plug, let me know. I've been looking for weeks and no joy. |
It's all about the fiddle factor.
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splicing it or finding the correct connectors and making what you want should be easily doable by any small electronics repair shop in your area - it is pretty basic soldering for most of those shops - providing you supply them with the correct switches and plugs. from there, it would just be matching up the pinout/wires correctly. Looking at the link above and pricing out the LA23 connector at bifrostgear ($75), the switch posted above at somogear looks to be the most logical choice. You could also reach out to the various sellers on ebay and elsewhere and just ask if you can get it with an LA23 plug. I've had a lot of luck getting custom connector options in the past. |
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Thanks, really good advice and I'll probably take you up on that later. However, I got in touch with my inner Frenchy and just went for it. Took the plug from the SG modlite and spliced it to an old SF dual switch. And it works. The SG plug has black, red, and white wires. To get both momentary and constant ON, I connected red wire to center wire, and white wire to "sheath" wire, which is gathered and twisted into a lead. Black wire is sealed off. On center wire, used a simple splice, coated with super glue, then covered with a layer of tape insulation. Then spliced sheath to white wire, superglued, and then shrink wrap tubed the whole thing. This will be concept demonstrator. If it holds up, will get another one soldered up nicely. Or. Chosos, do you think it's better to get a clean plug, and then connect that to a TAPs switch, vs splicing wires? |
It's all about the fiddle factor.
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Originally Posted By Diz: Thanks, really good advice and I'll probably take you up on that later. However, I got in touch with my inner Frenchy and just went for it. Took the plug from the SG modlite and spliced it to an old SF dual switch. And it works. The SG plug has black, red, and white wires. To get both momentary and constant ON, I connected red wire to center wire, and white wire to "sheath" wire, which is gathered and twisted into a lead. Black wire is sealed off. On center wire, used a simple splice, coated with super glue, then covered with a layer of tape insulation. Then spliced sheath to white wire, superglued, and then shrink wrap tubed the whole thing. This will be concept demonstrator. If it holds up, will get another one soldered up nicely. Or. Chosos, do you think it's better to get a clean plug, and then connect that to a TAPs switch, vs splicing wires? Its really hit or miss. I have never custom wired a bare LA23 plug so I don't know what it looks like on the inside for connectors/pins. If it is like a LEMO or Fischer plug, I would say just getting the bare plug would be best. If not, you might be better off splicing. I would probably just go the absolute cheapest option that you know will work - which is splicing or ordering the switch already made from Somogear for $100. Since you already have a prototype in place, I'd just email anyone and everyone selling the swtiches and LA23 plugs and see if one of them offers the option you're looking for - and you might want to ask Bifrostgear, too since they have an LA23 modbutton on the site as an option. |
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For sure that might be the best option. I want to mod a TAPs switch so all rifles are the same. The Somoboat might also be a donor. The splice has held up so far, with one whole night of use haha. Just FYI, I made it at approx 4" so the wire crosses over the rail (from the switch), goes along the rail, and the crosses back over the rail to the plug receptable. The splice is then hidden under the rail as it runs along it. This is for a 9 o' clock switch mount, with LAM at 12, and light at 2:30-ish. |
It's all about the fiddle factor.
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My Zbolt Blazer LEP is power hungry, the somoboat switch can't handle it and outputs at a mere 40%-50%. Decided to try the clone Unity Axon (Surefire|NGAL|Vis Override|Sync) from specprecision (posted above) and it works flawlessly! Price is low enough I decided to trim the leads to the correct size straight to the NGAL and Torch doing away with the slack! Something i wouldn't attempt on the real thing. The Unity switch is almost impossible to get here in Aus and priced close to $600 AUD landed so this clone was a welcome addition to the Somogear NGAL. |
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Well done! The Chinese stuff is all over the place as far as QC, so knowing which vendors are actually a cut above is very useful. Although it surprises me that SG's switch is weaker than SP's, this is good to know. It's a very trial and error thing to sort this out. But don't feel neglected mate; we can't even get UT shit over here. The legacy TAPs (especially with the NGALplug) are not even on their website any more. And try to get ANY of their switches with the "NGAL" plug. So cut and switch it is. Good to see other peeps doing some field expedient mods as well. |
It's all about the fiddle factor.
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Update: Finally got cc to work and ordered SP/SG switch from Spec Precision. As an added bonus, it also comes with a M-Lok attachment, which I prefer for a side mount under LAM. UT may have those but I think it's an additional cost. If you could find a LA23 switch to begin with. So yeah, if you have a SG NGAL and prefer a switch, this may be the way to go. The "Somoboat" was just too big for what I'm doing. The "AXON" footprint works much better, especially if I can get a side mount going. It's actually superior to a TAPs style, simply because you can instantly feel which is which, with the raised light button. Also to note: my shooting style favors the more traditional shooting grip underneath the rail, with thumb roughly at 9 o'clock. I am in a more "backwoods" environment, where this is more optimal. If you are in a more urban environment, this may not be for you. Just saying, so as not to mis-lead folks who may require something else. If you are in an urban area, where stand up, highly mobile gunfighting might be the order of the day, you might want to consider the newer "C" clamp grip, and a switch mounted at 12 o'clock behind the LAM. Although you probably have already been exposed to this, as it seems to be the prevalent technique online these days. Pardon if I state the obvious, but some folks may not know. |
It's all about the fiddle factor.
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Originally Posted By Diz: Update: Finally got cc to work and ordered SP/SG switch from Spec Precision. As an added bonus, it also comes with a M-Lok attachment, which I prefer for a side mount under LAM. UT may have those but I think it's an additional cost. If you could find a LA23 switch to begin with. So yeah, if you have a SG NGAL and prefer a switch, this may be the way to go. The "Somoboat" was just too big for what I'm doing. The "AXON" footprint works much better, especially if I can get a side mount going. It's actually superior to a TAPs style, simply because you can instantly feel which is which, with the raised light button. Also to note: my shooting style favors the more traditional shooting grip underneath the rail, with thumb roughly at 9 o'clock. I am in a more "backwoods" environment, where this is more optimal. If you are in a more urban environment, this may not be for you. Just saying, so as not to mis-lead folks who may require something else. If you are in an urban area, where stand up, highly mobile gunfighting might be the order of the day, you might want to consider the newer "C" clamp grip, and a switch mounted at 12 o'clock behind the LAM. Although you probably have already been exposed to this, as it seems to be the prevalent technique online these days. Pardon if I state the obvious, but some folks may not know. @Diz Could you post some pics of this switch and your SOMO NGAL? If I’m remembering correctly, this allows for a single tape switch for use with the SOMO-GAL and an SF tail cap for white light? |
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Found this on AliExpress. Says it works with the sumo gear, l3, and Evolution gear(is-eg) It’s on the way. Will update when it arrives. 2024 New Tactical AXON SYNC Dual Switch NGAL LA-23 SF Flashlight Plug 7" 14" Cable with Picatinny MLOK Adapter https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNKaxjm |
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As an update, the Axon-style switch works just fine, but prefer the TAPS style. So... I modified an old TAPS switch with the donor LA23 plug from the Somoboat. Now this I like. Again this is for more traditional shooting stances, such as kneeling, and prone, vs standing, off-hand, and even rapid movement. I feel I have to say that so folks know whether this something interesting to them, or not. If anyone is interested, I think the red wire from the plug went to the core wire on the switch side, and the black, and white wires went to the sheath wire(s). (Test this first!) Little bit o' solder, and shrink wrap, and bob's your uncle. Also if you keep your splice up close to the plug, it will lay neatly across the rail to the starboard side, if you store your excess wire in between the MFAL, and light. And as an added bonus, Menards has earth tan and forest green 4" cable ties to secure wiring. After it's all said and done, I wish Somo Gear would switch up to a Crane plug, because sourcing LA23-capatible stuff is a PITA. |
It's all about the fiddle factor.
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