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Posted: 9/12/2024 9:46:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: sully][Edited]
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The Sully 870 Ejector system (patent pending) is designed to be installed using 2 screws. The screw design allows for much easier installation, with no special tools required. Simply align the Sully Ejector and Spring, and screw it into place with a few drops of thread locker on the screws. The Sully 870 Ejector system is designed so the spring is tucked under the ejector against the receiver. The ejector is thicker on the front end, which gives greater strength to support the barrel. This design also makes the ejector spring stronger, and eliminates the ejector spring being damaged or torn loose from a rivet. The screw design eliminates the need of having to refinish the receiver. There is no having to grind rivets flush and refinish and re-blue or parkerize the receiver. Sully 870 Ejector System  CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Very cool! The riveted ejector of the 870 was always a weak spot to my thinking. I watched the installation video first - just a couple of questions Sully. I guess you just have to drill holes in the receiver, but not thread them since the bar is threaded. Is there a Jig to locate the bit for drilling the mounting holes? Any pricing? Looks like an excellent product! |
Pathetic earthlings. Hurling your bodies out into the void, without the slightest inkling of who or what is out here. If you had known anything about the true nature of the universe, anything at all, you would've hidden from it in terror.
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Originally Posted By Ming_The_Merciless: Very cool! The riveted ejector of the 870 was always a weak spot to my thinking. I watched the installation video first - just a couple of questions Sully. I guess you just have to drill holes in the receiver, but not thread them since the bar is threaded. Is there a Jig to locate the bit for drilling the mounting holes? Any pricing? Looks like an excellent product! No drilling or modifications of the receiver is needed. Simply remove the factory ejector rivets, then remove the damaged or broken ejector. Then screw ours into place through the factory rivet holes with a couple of drops of thread locking paste on the threads and you are done. The Sully 870 Ejector is threaded, and the screws will tighten the ejector and spring down to the receiver. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By sully: No drilling or modifications of the receiver is needed. Simply remove the factory ejector rivets, then remove the damaged or broken ejector. Then screw ours into place through the factory rivet holes with a couple of drops of thread locking paste on the threads and you are done. The Sully 870 Ejector is threaded, and the screws will tighten the ejector and spring down to the receiver. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By -OdieGreen-: Awesome idea. Will this stronger spring allow 870’s to reliably eject heavier 3” unfired hulls now? We tested with dummy rounds with 1-1/8" shot weight, and were able to obtain more than twice the distance as compared to the factory. If you desire more or less spring tension, it is tunable, I would recommend installation and trying to see how it performs first before you do any changes. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By wildearp: Same question. I usually remove rivets by drilling. How are you doing it, grinding off the heads? Punch? I have fired an 870 and have done it a lot. Is this a particular weak spot or an occasional repair? I have seen this fuck up on a Mossberg, however, I think it was caused by user error. Removing the factory rivets is fairly simple and common, as many Gunsmiths and Armorers have probably had to replace an 870 ejector at some point. They can be drilled, if doing it this way I would suggest using a very small diameter bit, and make sure you are centered in the middle of the rivet, as if you are off center or using too large of a drill bit, you may actually drill the receiver. Drill a small hole through the center of the rivet to weaken it, then use a punch and hammer going from the inside of the receiver and tap the rivets out. Most times I grind off the flattened (mushroomed) head of the rivet on the inside of the receiver, and just remove enough material on the rivet to lose the mushroomed part. Then I use a punch and hammer to gently tap the rivet out (Going through the ejection port side and tap the rivets out). If you use only a punch and hammer trying to tap the rivets out, it can be done, but be very careful not to deform the receiver and bow it outward, which is why I prefer to grind the mushroomed head of the rivet off to make it much easier to tap the rivets out with a lot less resistance. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Could we get some pics of what this looks like installed on the outside?  CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
Pics showing the screws as compared to a dime.   CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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despite our best efforts things always work out anyway. Purchased the a Sully 870 ejector system. Hefty construction, pop out the 870 rivets and screw spring housing into place with newly designed spring. A stiff $99.00 each but a bargain considering the alternative. My 2 cents on Remington's original ejector design. Poor engineering period. |
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I haven't installed the Sully system as of yet. Broke an ankle waiting for delivery. What luck eh? I had assumed the screws were flush with the receiver's right side and covering the holes with a 6-round shell mag. Custom cut brass or fiber gasket same thickness as screw heads protrusion should provide a stable surface. Open for suggestions. |
I actually need this. I have a shotgun down at work due to the ejector being broken off and gunsmith costs too much $$ to make it worth it. I was going to have one of my guys take the receiver to the next armorers class we attend so you could show them how to get it out 
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I'm no holster sniffer but if someone burned down the town garage and threw canned corn at the snow plow guys I'd drop off a case of beer at the DPW. ~Aimless
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Originally Posted By backbencher: Sully, will these work in the Chinese Hawk 870 clones, imported by IAC, H&R, & Hurricane Butterfly? I do not have any of these particular shotguns in our inventory. I have seen a few in the past, but it's been a little while. Without having them in our hands, I cannot specifically tell you that it will work or not. My thinking would be if you can fit in a factory 870 part, then ours will fit, but again without having one of those particular shotguns in my hand I cannot say for sure. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer SLR15 Rifles Defensive Edge Training (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By Trumpster24: I haven't installed the Sully system as of yet. Broke an ankle waiting for delivery. What luck eh? I had assumed the screws were flush with the receiver's right side and covering the holes with a 6-round shell mag. Custom cut brass or fiber gasket same thickness as screw heads protrusion should provide a stable surface. Open for suggestions. In the above picture I previously posted, you can see that the button head screws are domed, and protrude out about half the thickness of a $.10 dime. We chose this type of screw due to that when we started sampling 870 receivers from modern to dating back to the 1950's, we found that there we differences in the depth of the factory rivet holes. So by using a button head, the domed head will not catch or interfere with anything, button head screws are common on many firearms for a very long time, which don't interfere with anything. As for adding a side shell carrier, you won't have to worry about any protrusion of the button head screws interfering with the side shell carrier plate, as we have used them with TacStar, Mesa Tactical, and Aridus, with no issues of fit or function. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer SLR15 Rifles Defensive Edge Training (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By Norinco982lover: I actually need this. I have a shotgun down at work due to the ejector being broken off and gunsmith costs too much $$ to make it worth it. I was going to have one of my guys take the receiver to the next armorers class we attend so you could show them how to get it out When we teach Shotgun Armorer courses, we show how to remove and replace the ejectors. The factory 870 ejector is riveted in. There are several ways to remove broken and damaged one. I have seen where people use a small drill bit and drill through the rivet, this weakens it, then it can be tapped out with a punch and hammer, making sure you drive the rivet out from the inside of the receiver going through the ejection port and drive the weakened rivet out towards the outside, make sure you securely brace the receiver on a steel plate or steel bench block, an anvil will suffice if you're careful. Another option is to use s small grinding wheel on a rotary tool like a Dremel. Remove the barrel. bolt, slide and action bars, and then remove the trigger group so you have a wide open receiver to work in. Using a small grinding stone on a Dremel, you can go through the open are where the trigger group has been removed, the carefully grind off the smashed rivets inside the ejector track. With the rivets ground down on the inside of the factory ejector, take a small punch and carefully tap out the ejector rivets by going through the ejection port with a small punch and tap out what is left of the rivets, again be careful to brace the receiver on a steel plate or bench block when tapping rivets out. With the rivets removed, you can now replace the ejector system. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer SLR15 Rifles Defensive Edge Training (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By VaFish: Will it work on an 1100 too? No it will not work on the 1100 or 1187. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer SLR15 Rifles Defensive Edge Training (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By Mekks: Just removed the rivets on an old 870. Used a rotary tool threw the ejection port and tapped them out with a punch. Have a Sully ejector I am going to install after getting the gun coated. Its an old police mag that looks really really bad. Let us know how it goes! I still need to buy one for a gun at work with a broken ejector. |
I'm no holster sniffer but if someone burned down the town garage and threw canned corn at the snow plow guys I'd drop off a case of beer at the DPW. ~Aimless
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Originally Posted By Mekks: Just removed the rivets on an old 870. Used a rotary tool threw the ejection port and tapped them out with a punch. Have a Sully ejector I am going to install after getting the gun coated. Its an old police mag that looks really really bad. If you are having it refinished with something like Cerakote, Duracoat, Molyresin, etc., I would highly recommend making sure either the rivet holes are masked off, plugged, or clean out the new finish before you install your ejector, as any type of new coating that adds any thickness in dimension may cause issues. Also before finishing, you might install your new ejector system and get it tuned correctly if needed, then remove it so you can then get the new finish done, then reinstall everything. I have had a few done in battle ship grey, and they look great. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By sully: If you are having it refinished with something like Cerakote, Duracoat, Molyresin, etc., I would highly recommend making sure either the rivet holes are masked off, plugged, or clean out the new finish before you install your ejector, as any type of new coating that adds any thickness in dimension may cause issues. Also before finishing, you might install your new ejector system and get it tuned correctly if needed, then remove it so you can then get the new finish done, then reinstall everything. I have had a few done in battle ship grey, and they look great. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 Thanks for the tips, the parts have already been sent off for Cerakote so it looks like I might be cleaning the rivet holes out after it gets back. Once back I will try to install and see how it goes. |
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Just wanted to update anyone who is going to install one of these.... DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS. I cranked mine down pretty good, about 3 min later I heard a popping sound. One of the screw heads fell right off. Ordered replacements from the website, hopefully they show up quickly. |
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Originally Posted By Mekks: Just wanted to update anyone who is going to install one of these.... DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS. I cranked mine down pretty good, about 3 min later I heard a popping sound. One of the screw heads fell right off. Ordered replacements from the website, hopefully they show up quickly. Torque is 12-inch pounds. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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We now have a Super Magnum 3.5" version available. Sully 870 Super Magnum 3.5" Ejector System CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer.com SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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