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Posted: 9/3/2026 5:57:22 PM EDT
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…. Good for a 300blk sub can? Thinking 6.5” long, 1.62, 8 cones… |
Then President Biden added “The only garbage I see floating out there is [TRUMP] supporters.
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The ideas of doing Form 1 suppressors started with a buddy and then my nephew and I started a project. He got his quiet bore kit and I did not, seems that after I paid for everything (kit, Form 1) the very next day the Afts stopped it all. My fault, I know... Anyway, we are back to Form 1 project together, building dedicated 300blk suppressors. MY GOAL is QUIET AS POSSIBLE. For subs, as 300blk was really intended - as quiet as an AR pattern gun can do it. Also, still be hearing safe-ish with occasional supers. Weight and length are not really an issue so if 7.5" TI solvent tube and 10 cones will do, so be it. I know that I will have to trim skirt on last cone, some, maybe. Hoping that some of you Sages have wisdom to share. Thanks! |
Then President Biden added “The only garbage I see floating out there is [TRUMP] supporters.
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You're going to want to stretch out to 8.5in at least, even with the 1-5/8 OD. The diff between a subs vs supers build is simplified with this: Blast chamber -Supers: longer (~2.5" from muzzle to first baffle) -Subs: shorter, to eliminate FRP Baffle spacing -Supers: start longer and work to shorter -Subs: An evenly spaced mean of the above progressive is usually fine If you're going to use it for both, you can something like the following: Split your blast chamber spacer into 2pcs. When shooting supers, you'll use both together. When shooting subs, take one of them and move it to the opposite end or test placing somewhere in the middle. Make your first couple baffles with the progressive spacing, something like 2X3/4"--2X5/8", then make all the rest like 1/2". If you want to dedicate it mostly for subs, just start with 2X5/8" and make the rest 1/2" or 7/16" spacing. Are you planning to use a muzzle device/QD type mount? This math will come into play when you're measuring for you blast spacer lengths, to get the measurement from device tip to first baffle tip. These are just really basic design layouts, for standard 60° cones, which will always yield a good build. If you want to get into radials or some of the dual geometry cones, some of this is altered to suit. |
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Thank you, that is fantastic! I have a Wolfman and love it but want to do a Form 1 and a dedicated 300blk is it - subs are like 95% of use if not 99%. Besides, the Wolfman loves 9mm. Interesting take on the spacer, I like that and the ability to alter the set up - spacers and baffles. So, what if I went to a 1.75 tube and cones from SubZero? |
Then President Biden added “The only garbage I see floating out there is [TRUMP] supporters.
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Originally Posted By RWEIII: Thank you, that is fantastic! I have a Wolfman and love it but want to do a Form 1 and a dedicated 300blk is it - subs are like 95% of use if not 99%. Besides, the Wolfman loves 9mm. Interesting take on the spacer, I like that and the ability to alter the set up - spacers and baffles. So, what if I went to a 1.75 tube and cones from SubZero? For subs volume through length is more important / effective than diameter. The gas volume is fairly low and the slow subsonic bullet benefits from a longer residence time in the can before the bullet uncorks from the front cap. Subs benefit from lots of baffles too. At least 1 baffle per inch of can, but more if you can. The Omega-300 for instance is approximately a 1.5” by 6” format but has 9 baffles. The similar sized Vox-S has 5 baffles in about the same space and is noticeably louder unless one adds an accuracy degrading wipe. In an 8” tube it’s common for good designs to have 8-10 baffles. Some baffle curves like radials can’t be stacked / nested as close as straight cones. For a subs only can a smaller blast chamber (but watch out for muzzle device fit allowances) can reduce first round pop at the muzzle, give good back pressure for cycling, and allow for more baffles to scrub the gas off the bore line. But you may find port pop in a semi-auto more annoying. A closed breech blackout is where the quiet really shines. |
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Yes, a friend has a break open that is less than pellet gun with 250gr. Okay, I get that. Is SubZero a good go to? I see they have a 7.5" and 8", what is another 1.5-5/8"??? Now, how many cones to order? Hmmm. Tube has built in spacer... |
Then President Biden added “The only garbage I see floating out there is [TRUMP] supporters.
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Originally Posted By RWEIII: Yes, a friend has a break open that is less than pellet gun with 250gr. Okay, I get that. Is SubZero a good go to? I see they have a 7.5" and 8", what is another 1.5-5/8"??? Now, how many cones to order? Hmmm. Tube has built in spacer... If you use their cones with 0.5" skirts, i believe that the 7.5" tube will hold 9 cones. However, check the measurements on the sub zero site. |
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Sub Zero is gtg. The built in spacer isn't going to be ideal for a subsonic build. Apex looks to be out of 1-5/8 tubes. Not sure if BSD does solvent trap stuff. Maybe email Hawkstand ([email protected]) and see if he'll make you what you want. Just sticking w/ Seb Zero stuff, you could do something like: Icicle Ice Sheet Iceberg 3-Glacialsaurus 3-Ice Mountain (You could forego those last 6 and replace with the radial Ice Stags, but know these probably perfom better w/ subs) Baffle count dependent on length allowance. For reference, here's one I did that meets similar goals. It's 6.5" tube for the K config w/ a 2.5" spacer to make the full L config. I start with a spacer just long enough for the subsonic build, then implement a diffusion wall to get me to an appropraite supersonic blast chamber length. I move that to just before the spacer, for the subsonic config. Even thge coupler has a baffle face w/ another baffle that nests inside, to maximize space usage.  |
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They use a threaded insert in their tubes that appears to have been glued in. It lasted 3 shots. I'm very lucky I found the rest of it down range. ETA: see my post below. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By lorazepam: That does not look good. Did you have a baffle strike as well? No baffle strikes. FWIW, sub zero responded quickly and is sending me a replacement. They say a new guy over-bored some tubes then welded in the inserts. They said it only happened with 5.5x1.625 tubes and that they caught most of them before they got out to the public. It just creates a lot of headaches for me. I try to stay 100% legal, so I need to start over with a new F1. Also now need to figure out how to lawfully dispose of this one and get it removed from the registry. ETA: I just checked a 6.5" tube that I bought from them but haven't finished. If that has a welded or glued insert, they did a really good job blending it. It looks solid to me. I think that their story about the new guy is probably the truth. ETA 2: just adding this to be fair to SZ since I was really pissed off when I initially posted. SZ has already sent me a tracking number for a new tube engraved with my info. I can say without doubt that they have excellent CS. Assuming that the new tube is one piece like it should be, I am happy with the resolution. |
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I may have a few sz stuff, Bravo that sucks about yours. Their 5.5 will hold 5 cups, for every inch add 2 more. I have two with glacial cups one in 30 and one in 223. Both work great and sound just like my Griffen explorers in 30 and 224. The glacial cups are approved dino cups. |
"I am gonna laugh my ass off looking out the air vent of the box car watching some of you shot in the head in a ditch when you finally realize it's time to resist." stolen from RR_broccoli
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Originally Posted By Bravo_Six: It just creates a lot of headaches for me. I try to stay 100% legal, so I need to start over with a new F1. Also now need to figure out how to lawfully dispose of this one and get it removed from the registry. I get the inconvenience of having to file for a new form, but the rest is easy. I wouldn't try to remove that serial from the registry as the baffles are tied to it. Put them in the new tube and engrave w/ both serials. Crush the old tube and move on. Or, toss that little piece, have the tube rethreaded, and an SOT make an adapter for that end as well as a spacer. Us ethe new tube for another can. |
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Originally Posted By lorazepam: I wonder if they are replacing them if they fail, and hoping they don't. It is good on them to replace it, and do the engraving for you. Originally Posted By lorazepam: I wonder if they are replacing them if they fail, and hoping they don't. It is good on them to replace it, and do the engraving for you. They made it sound like they thought that they caught most of them before they got shipped to customers. I'm sure they don't want negative threads such as these. Originally Posted By User55645: I get the inconvenience of having to file for a new form, but the rest is easy. I wouldn't try to remove that serial from the registry as the baffles are tied to it. Put them in the new tube and engrave w/ both serials. Crush the old tube and move on. Or, toss that little piece, have the tube rethreaded, and an SOT make an adapter for that end as well as a spacer. Us ethe new tube for another can. Those are both good ideas. Thanks! |
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Thanks all, great info here and I appreciate it all! Looking at 7.5" or 8.5", might play with cones a bit and see, then order. Nephew built a 6.5 and it sounds really good! |
Then President Biden added “The only garbage I see floating out there is [TRUMP] supporters.
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