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Posted: 1/3/2006 1:17:36 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1/3/2006 1:17:36 AM EST by -brass-]
In the four wheeling world, there are hundreds of cheap mods you can perform on your vehicle for little or no money.  I dont know how well this will work in the firearm community, but I will give it a try.

Use WD-40 to clean cosmoline off a rifle.  Its basically gasoline in a can and cheaper then using Hopes.

A .223 / 5.56 shell can be used to adjust the front site on an AR, you use a file to cut some notches and it works perfectly.

Instead of buying a $30 piece of plastic for a receiver block when working with the rifle in a vise, use a cheap 30 round USA made steel magazine.  You can go to home depot or any craft store and purchase a do it yourself molding kit.  Pour epoxy or some other material into the mag body to make it stronger.

Link Posted: 1/2/2006 3:01:09 PM EST
Great info here. btt.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 9:26:19 PM EST

Originally Posted By glockguy2102:
Great info here. btt.

Well that was disappointing!

I saw the last reply was by someone named "glockguy" so I figured that you'd have some good Glock tips.

All I found was a BTT!

Link Posted: 1/2/2006 10:12:34 PM EST
Don't use it with force to bend it--
Take the charging handle to help clean the bolt.
Use the hole in the handle that surrounds the gas tube. Place this over the bolt's end to scrap carbon off. Angle it to scrap the sides and the shoulder area. It will get nearly all of it except the last radius to where it flattens out next to the gas rings.

You can use the "knife edge" of the charging handle to get that last stubborn spot around the bolt's shoulder.- (kind of like using a paring knife to run it around the bolt)
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 10:24:57 PM EST

Originally Posted By fargo007:
Free targets:

Cut a standard paper grocery bag in half lengthwise.

Cut the two corner lines and open each half up flat.  You now have two silhouette targets, exactly the same size as an IDPA cardboard.

Make a stencil out of tough cardboard with a pie plate sized circle in the center, and an octagon some distance around it.  Draw with a fat magic marker.  The stencil ensures they are all the same size and are consistent.

The circle and head are 5 points, the octagon is 4, and outside that is 2.

It's life sized, so you can use it at any distance.  Shoot it backwards and 'guess' the center of mass and see how ya do.

If you need a visual focus point, staple a pie plate in the middle over the 5 circle.

Shoot a full mag of 30.  10 prone, 10 kneeling, 10 standing.  At least one every range day.

Record your score, the ammo, the distance, and the field position.  Keep track and see how you improve.


I use these targets everytime I shoot my AR, they work really good, and they're FREE!  
Just request like 5 or so extra paper bags everytime you go to the store.  

If you don't have a backstop that you can tack or nail these to,  a big cardboard box will work great.  Put a little weight inside of it, and tack your targets to one side.

What I like to do is get cheap RED pop, and place 2 cans on the head portion of the target.   I have a few long nails pounded into my backstop, that the cans set on.  Makes for a nice red mist when you make a headshot.    
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 11:22:44 PM EST

Link Posted: 1/2/2006 11:26:20 PM EST
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 11:29:57 PM EST
Some RTV sealant (silicone) in the hole between the A2 pistol grip and the trigger guard saves your middle finger from irritation.  Crude but it works.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 11:41:29 PM EST

Originally Posted By QUIB:

Originally Posted By wyv3rn:
Flat black Alumahyde II is great for front sight posts and rear apertures for a durable finish that keeps them dark & non-glare.  Practice with it first, a thin layer is all it takes and only adds .001" thickness to the surface.  Be patient and let it cure for a full week so that the Alumahyde can get nice and hard so you don't muck it up.

Along the same lines.......when we would go to the range to qualify we would darken up our sights by turning up the flame on a BIC lighter and holding it under our sights. A burning plastic MRE spoon would provide the same effect, and both are removable when needed.

ahhh the memories. I am getting nostalgic.
Link Posted: 1/3/2006 12:04:10 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 3:57:19 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/30/2005 4:03:14 AM EST by vallopez2000]
For removing a front sight base. I found that even damaged pins can be removed without destroying them. You have to use a FSB block like they sell at Brownells. Like this. Put it in a vise while you hold a short punch or another pin in place with pliers and squeeze the pins out in the vise. This method is much easier than the hammer and punch method. No more busted knuckels, marred finishes, or mushroomed pins.
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 4:42:18 AM EST

Originally Posted By Psychojeeper:
One trick I use on all my rifles is to use a bright colored crayon to mark the A-2 sight range marks. Just rub it over the marks on the wheel as well as the tic marks on the sight apeture and base, wipe off the excess and they are easier to see and very easy to touch up.


Link Posted: 12/30/2005 5:06:56 AM EST
great info here
Link Posted: 12/30/2005 6:24:16 AM EST

Originally Posted By blueheeler66:

Originally Posted By von_landstuhl:

Originally Posted By jmindler:
I've been known to assemble or disassemble weapons in a well-lit room with a bedsheet over my upper torso and weapon so i dont have to chase errant detents

+1.  In addition, the front detent pin can be held in with a very small slotted screwdriver until the pivot pin is installed.

+1  3/16" flat blade, round shaft screwdriver (works great for me)

I always just used a razor blade.
Link Posted: 12/28/2005 2:16:59 PM EST
One trick I use on all my rifles is to use a bright colored crayon to mark the A-2 sight range marks. Just rub it over the marks on the wheel as well as the tic marks on the sight apeture and base, wipe off the excess and they are easier to see and very easy to touch up.

Link Posted: 12/28/2005 11:36:03 AM EST
Instead of buying the gizmo from Brownell's, get an old hockey puck and drill several different size holes in it. The rubber puck won't mar the finish.

When you need to tap a pin out of a receiver just place it over a hole.
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 8:59:38 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 2:38:20 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 4:29:38 PM EST
I've not seen this one posted yet:

If you lose the buffer detent spring you can replace it with the spring from a common click type ball point pen.

Make yourself some Ed's Red bore cleaner. Keep it in a plastic 1 gallon gasoline or diesel can.
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 12:58:05 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/26/2005 6:36:28 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 4:07:51 PM EST
To remove standard handguards from a stubborn delta ring, don't bother getting one of those handguard removal tools, all you need is a rubberband and a paperclip.

Bend one end of the paperclip into a hook and attach the rubberband to the other end of the paper clip.  Place one of your hands through the rubberband so that it is around your wrist.  Place the hook end of the paper clip through one of the vent holes near the delta ring.  With the rubber band under tension, you can now use both hands to push down on the delta ring, letting the rubber band do the rest of the work.  A twistie-tie can be substituted for the paperclip if you prefer.

Most everyone probably already knows this, but for unloading mags quickly, hold the mag with the front pointing downwards.  Pressed down on the second round from the top with another round or pointy object and the first round will drop out of the mag.  Once you get the hang of it, you can unload a mag about as quickly as using a LULA.
Link Posted: 12/24/2005 5:42:25 AM EST
Shotshell boxes (25 count, 12 ga, 2 3/4") exactly fit 12 loaded 5.56 stripper clips.  They work great for carrying ammo to the range, training, etc.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 12:47:25 PM EST

Originally Posted By Gunbert:

Not true!   I refinished my M16 with high temp engine paint

painting is all in the prep work.  I painted 4 16: rims one of my past cars before.  Stripped the original paint with airline stripper, used the same high temp paint, then put each wheel in my oven at 350F for 1/2 hour.  Wheels on cars get abused pretty good, and these were very durable.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 1:30:22 PM EST

Originally Posted By Hellhound:

Originally Posted By druncuncas:

Originally Posted By Redbone:
Use the truck bedliner in a can to add texture to any grip or stock.

that works?

i thought of hitting my baby glock with that stuff.

Tried it on wood (beater Cetme), the stuff flaked here and there-its just OK.  

On the plus side it is cheap.  

I would not put it on a Glock, maybe try a section of rubber hose or a Hogue rubber grippy thing.

You can cut a section of bicycle innertube to go over the 3rd gen Glock. Buy the lightest tube you can find and it works like a charm.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 9:18:19 AM EST
adding another ball bearing and spring to an Armalite A2 windage knob will make it have 1/4 moa adjustments.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 9:47:06 AM EST

Originally Posted By Tempest45:
Plastic Q-tip front sight adjustment tool. No kidding!! Strip off the cotton from one end and then simply press the plastic tube over the sight. It's almost like it was made for it. Press the detent down with whatever will work, and use the Q-tip to turn the sight. I discovered this when I was cleaning my AR and changed the front sight at the same time. Put a few in your range bag or cleaning kit and you will always have a sight adjustment tool!!

awesome, thanks!
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 9:57:00 AM EST
tag for reference
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 10:42:56 AM EST

Originally Posted By Tominator425:

Originally Posted By 552bigdog:
I use an ironingboard to set my guns on while I clean them sitting at the couch. You can adjust them to the perfect height you need.

For some reason, I LOVE this idea!

Charlie 31

Only bad part is your wife expects you to iron the clothes once 'you're done playing...'
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 11:12:05 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 11:51:14 AM EST
KISS!! Forget all the gizzmos!

My Tactical Sling is made with the orignal Sling and 100MPH Tape and Para cord

brake Cleaner! Old flannel Shirts

Link Posted: 12/21/2005 8:26:11 PM EST
Dont forget, a cheap carbon scraper for the bolt is a stripper clip.  Works great.  
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 7:07:33 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/21/2005 2:36:45 PM EST
Good enough to kick to the top again.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 3:09:57 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 3:27:44 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 3:35:27 PM EST

Originally Posted By QUIB:
I’ll throw in Quib’s A1 pistol grip mod.

In need of a A1 grip for my retro build I decided to cut off the finger groove on my A2 grip to give it the appearance and feel of an A1 grip…….there you have it, the A1.1 grip!

Once you're done sanding off the rough edges, follow up with some fine wet/dry paper and then 000 steel wool.  Gets rid of the gray look caused by sanding and brings the finish back to original.

A woodburner tool found at Wal Mart with changeable tips can make a nice texture job on plastic furniture on any gun.

Link Posted: 12/18/2005 10:46:20 AM EST

Originally Posted By HotLead:

Originally Posted By MisterPX:

#6 Oring for extractor


I went to Lowe's and found the O-rings in the plumbing section;  The #7 worked perfoect for the front receiver lug, but the #6 was HUGE.  Way too big for the extractor...anybody have dimensions for the one I should be looking for?  

Get the #60 in the package of 10 @ Home Depot----works perfectly.  IIRC, it is 1/4" OD, 1/8" ID and 1/16" in thickness.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 10:54:49 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 11:43:43 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 12:10:41 PM EST
If you like Shooter's Choice bore cleaner, try GM Top Engine Cleaner---the 15 or 16 oz. liquid (not the spray)----instead.  Wholesale or in bulk, it sells for about $4.60 a can at your local GM dealer & it's just as good as SC.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 12:14:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/18/2005 12:16:17 PM EST by rideage]
For those that shoot lead bullets (most likely not in ARFs) buy some ALL copper scrubbies ( chore boy ) at your favorite grocery store and cut a piece just big enough to wrap around a worn out bore brush, add favorite cleaner (kroil) and run through several times.... seems to work wonders for me.
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 12:54:25 PM EST

  One of my favorite tools is my leaf blower.

  Of course I use it to dry my motorcycle and truck so I don't get water spots on the paint or crome. I also use it on all my plastic parts.  I first wash them in very hot water and then rinse in hot water. Blow dry with the leaf blower and the residual heat from the hot water rinse will evaporate the rest.

Link Posted: 12/18/2005 12:55:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/18/2005 1:00:21 PM EST by ChickenKiller]
I was down in LA after Katrina and during Rita on a security detail.  I got rained on a lot while Rita was coming in and so when we got a chane to clean our weapons I was cleaning mine with a guy that is an armorer .  I was suprised to see what he used for cleaning patches:

Bounty "the quicker picker upper" paper towels. They work great, no lint and you can tear them to size.  They even did good in the barrel.  He is an armorer for a large city and says that he budgets for Bounty when ordering supplies for his department.

I have used them since and they are really good, I was really suprised.  I'd like to get some Bounty with Roses on them so I could have the Guns n Roses thing going..
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 2:35:37 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 2:45:06 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 10:42:52 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 11:11:29 PM EST
Link Posted: 12/17/2005 11:44:35 PM EST
Great thread
Link Posted: 12/18/2005 12:26:45 AM EST
Good stuff here...
Link Posted: 11/14/2005 9:40:01 AM EST
[Last Edit: 11/14/2005 9:41:37 AM EST by Mike_L]

Originally Posted By fatbarrel:

Originally Posted By LazerSighterz:
What do you guys use to darken the iron sights so they won't glare?

A Sharpie or other heavy black magic marker will do in a pinch.


My dad tried that on his Blackhawk and it made it black, but still shiny.  Didn't help his glare problem at all.

Somebody on one of these forums suggested Alumahyde II flat black from Brownell's for sights.  Haven't tried it yet.  $10.42, but it would probably last two lifetimes if you're just doing sights.  Says it's an "epoxy-based paint" so it should hold up well and not wipe off like the old carbon soot trick.
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