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Posted: 2/3/2025 10:29:29 PM EDT
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So I have been testing this gun aggressively the last month or so in the cold below are the rifle specs 10” scar 16 Cherry bomb muzzle device .063 gas jet Brownells fde aluminum magazine Nrch bolt 800 rounds on the gun My test goes as follows: Take the gun outside, 5 rounds in the mag load it out it on the back porch over night, fire the next morning, the gun is cleaned before each oil test 100% stripped and cleaned So far no oil is any better than the other. I’ll fire a round or 2 and the gun will cycle but then the bolt will only go 3/4 of the way home or I’ll pull the trigger and get the dead man’s click. So the other night I polished the following parts: Cam pin Firing pin Bolt head and bolt head body Channel the cam pin rides in Chamber I need to shoot it but did a manual function check and seemed good actually a bit smoother, I might send out a few parts for dlc and nitride. Fn guy said the nrch bolt is much lighter and suggested a rch bolt instead but idk if it will work in the nrch receiver, he also told me what I was doing was pretty dumb, but I told him that I do a lot of winter day and night shoots and I cannot have it fail during a class so ??????? Any suggestions ? Possibly drag on the sled ? |
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You need a light oil carrier that evaporates and leaves behind a thin film of silicone/teflon/graphite to do the lubing. Put your oils in the freezer and see how much they thicken up in the cold. Maybe try a 0W-15 motor oil over some ''great gun oil'' that doesn't really get temp tested like most motor oils do. I think basically all low viscosity motor oils are synthetic because ''dino'' oil can't make the low viscosity grades. Maybe try some Silikroil, thin but has silicone for lubricating properties. You need to stay away from anything that starts to gum and stick when it gets cold. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By CJofFL: Have you tried incrementally increasing the gas jet? No only because I don’t have issues with cycling outside of freezing the gun, it’s possible it could be the gas but the gun hangs up when it’s returning to battery, but I can put the factory one back in 🤷🏻♂️ |
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Originally Posted By fxntime: You need a light oil carrier that evaporates and leaves behind a thin film of silicone/teflon/graphite to do the lubing. Put your oils in the freezer and see how much they thicken up in the cold. Maybe try a 0W-15 motor oil over some ''great gun oil'' that doesn't really get temp tested like most motor oils do. I think basically all low viscosity motor oils are synthetic because ''dino'' oil can't make the low viscosity grades. Maybe try some Silikroil, thin but has silicone for lubricating properties. You need to stay away from anything that starts to gum and stick when it gets cold. Using mpro7 lxp oil, I think it has a -65 or -85 rating, my temps I am testing In is between 10 and 23 degrees |
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Originally Posted By Small_white_D: Using mpro7 lxp oil, I think it has a -65 or -85 rating, my temps I am testing In is between 10 and 23 degrees Originally Posted By Small_white_D: Originally Posted By fxntime: You need a light oil carrier that evaporates and leaves behind a thin film of silicone/teflon/graphite to do the lubing. Put your oils in the freezer and see how much they thicken up in the cold. Maybe try a 0W-15 motor oil over some ''great gun oil'' that doesn't really get temp tested like most motor oils do. I think basically all low viscosity motor oils are synthetic because ''dino'' oil can't make the low viscosity grades. Maybe try some Silikroil, thin but has silicone for lubricating properties. You need to stay away from anything that starts to gum and stick when it gets cold. Using mpro7 lxp oil, I think it has a -65 or -85 rating, my temps I am testing In is between 10 and 23 degrees It may lube still but it may still be too thick. That is why I said try the freezer and see how much it thickens. Use a small container like a OTC pill bottle. |
Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By Small_white_D: No only because I don’t have issues with cycling outside of freezing the gun, it’s possible it could be the gas but the gun hangs up when it’s returning to battery, but I can put the factory one back in 🤷🏻♂️ Start there. Lubricant is probably not the issue |
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Originally Posted By Small_white_D:No only because I don’t have issues with cycling outside of freezing the gun, it’s possible it could be the gas but the gun hangs up when it’s returning to battery, but I can put the factory one back in 🤷🏻♂️ |
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Originally Posted By Small_white_D: No only because I don’t have issues with cycling outside of freezing the gun, it’s possible it could be the gas but the gun hangs up when it’s returning to battery, but I can put the factory one back in 🤷🏻♂️ Originally Posted By Small_white_D: Originally Posted By CJofFL: Have you tried incrementally increasing the gas jet? No only because I don’t have issues with cycling outside of freezing the gun, it’s possible it could be the gas but the gun hangs up when it’s returning to battery, but I can put the factory one back in 🤷🏻♂️ Working fine in mild temps isn't the same as working fine in extreme temps. Betting your SCAR would function fine with the factory gas jet and your test. |
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Originally Posted By CJofFL: Stock gas port for a 10" is 2.1mm. Mine would only lock on a 1.50mm or more as seen here... https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Scar-16-factory-10-unsuppressed-AE-223-gas-port-size/24-550797/ So, you may be near the minimum for reliable functioning regardless and the cold weather may be pushing it over the edge. Interesting mine came with a 1.2mm gas jet |
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I had this issue with my 10" scar 16 after I put a smaller gas jet into it. I don't remember the specific size, but I got it all configured and working but it was the summer. I took it out in the Utah winter and it just short stroked every round. I haven't yet, but I'm planning to get one of the adjustable gas components like the Scarburator or whatever and then just leave the stock gas jet in and dial it down when it's warm. |
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https://www.parkermountainmachine.com/product/pmm-scar-1617-stainless-steel-gas-jets/ FACTORY SCAR 16 16″: 1.35MM 14″: 1.45MM 10″: 2.00MM FACTORY SCAR 17 16″: 1.45MM 13″: 1.60MM |
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Originally Posted By stevelish: https://www.parkermountainmachine.com/product/pmm-scar-1617-stainless-steel-gas-jets/ FACTORY SCAR 16 16″: 1.35MM 14″: 1.45MM 10″: 2.00MM FACTORY SCAR 17 16″: 1.45MM 13″: 1.60MM I am using a 1.9 in my scar |
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Originally Posted By Small_white_D: I am using a 1.9 in my scar You're saying the factory was 1.2, so you changed it out for a 1.9? Does that mean it simply wouldn't cycle from the factory, so you sought out a larger gas jet? |
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Originally Posted By Daggertt: Why did you change out the factory gas jet? You're saying the factory was 1.2, so you changed it out for a 1.9? Does that mean it simply wouldn't cycle from the factory, so you sought out a larger gas jet? Yes, when I got my 10” barrel it would not cycle, I did some research and started making my own gas jets, I am a machinist so I got a list of the jet sizes and made a set, starting from 2mm I tried them all then found the one that shot reliable and soft with out my suppressor on |
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Originally Posted By Small_white_D: Yes, when I got my 10" barrel it would not cycle, I did some research and started making my own gas jets, I am a machinist so I got a list of the jet sizes and made a set, starting from 2mm I tried them all then found the one that shot reliable and soft with out my suppressor on |
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Do not nitride any parts Use the factory size gas jet for a 10" barrel Use either: a. Slip 2000 EWL over all moving parts and inside of the barrel b. A heavy weight motor oil like OW-20 or OW-30 Mobil 1 synthetic over all moving parts (be careful, it is toxic) Those two oils appear to work the best in cold weather tests. https://youtu.be/ne-AgWDbVns?si=YBfJAZiJTXpKgdyN |
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